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Spanked/Superfly start (High Rocks, Southern Sandstone) (Read 1742 times)

i_a_coops

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Ok, so you only have to be able to pull off the ground for a split second before you can launch yourself at the jugs, BUT there aren't any handholds worth pulling on....

Any advice for where people put hands/feet? I've even tried an optimistic foot jam in the crack next to it but that just hurt.

The furthest I've got is by trying to propel myself off the floor by clenching my bum.

Is this actually impossible for 7a? Is it just that it's a bit mossy? Excuses welcome!

St Hubbins

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When Ian H finishes his mountain boarding for the day he'll be along to provide you with the answer?

This isn't the problem where you start with thumb holds in the roof is it???

ian h

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The way it is done is: Sit on floor facing down the crag towards second gen - left hand laybacking on the rounded side - right hand in vague low non hold (more for balance) - right foot just before rounded edge - left foot around the corner for balance.

Now launch up to the break catch with right hand and then quickly bring up the left.

AS demonstrated by mr stronghill at 0.18 seconds

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Sorry about the poor quality it is just mpg from a stills camera


i_a_coops

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Ah thanks! I had a bad feeling I was going to have to use those rubbish holds, hopefully the foot round the corner will make a bit of difference - I've been trying to put it on various greasy things next to my right foot and watching it slide off.

On a different note, there is now an undercut missing on Vandal, my friend pulled on it and it exploded in a shower of sand into his face.....  :oops: (N.B. it wasn't me...)

 

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