[JacobJacob]

Going in a couple of weeks and might have a go at redpointing my first 8b. I've never been to Siurana before and wont have the guide til I get there so thought I'd post on here to try and get some inspiration.

My criteria include:

-at a sociable, large sector with lots of other routes so potential belayers wont mind multiple trips.

-10 to 45 degrees, no wall climbs or roofs here please.

-longish power endurance or full on endurance, but I'm not afraid of the odd tricky move.

-Maybe a bit on the soft side... 

Cheers.

[Paul B]

Maybe convince someone that they want to climb at Raco de Misa, Montsant, something will fit the bill there.

[north_country_boy]

Zona 0 or Pati ma Pi.

[mendis]

8b? A bit ambitious, you're looking rather fat at the moment Jacob 

[Robbie_Phillips]

"Zona 0" is awesome! Or "Ramadan" (hard move low down). "Pati Pa Mi" was a bit crappy i thought compared to the other routes.

[jwi]

Zona 0 must fit the bill perfectly. Located at El Pati, so lots of quality routes from 7a to 9b to choose from, long strength endurance (the hard part is approx. 48 moves) and the two harder parts are like, eh, fb 6c-7a or so?

[JacobJacob]

Cheers guys Zona 0 does sound perfect, at least until I get on it and get my ass kicked 

[JacobJacob]

What time of day is best to climb at that sector?

[north_country_boy]

What time of day is best to climb at that sector?

early morning (probably comes into sun just after lunch), then last thing in evening.

[niall mcnair]

is mr jacob aware that Zona 0 is a full on vertical face climb?  Teeny crimps, wall climbing and all? not the criterior you laid out?
i'd have thought Migranya would be better- you did ask for something up to 45 degrees...
or maybe something at margalef?

[north_country_boy]

-10 to 45 degrees, no wall climbs or roofs here please.

It is over 10 degrees overhanging....so I guess the question is when does a wall climb become overhanging 

[JacobJacob]

To be honest it sounds perfect, and it just got onsighted by a girl! So it must be piss... 

[Three Nine]

Migranya is by far the most inspiring of that lot IMHO. It was Eddie's first 8b, though not supposed to be a pushover.