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True North- Kilnsey (Read 3667 times)

Nike Air

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True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 05:06:58 pm
I ve heard this has lost a hold on the upper section, does anybody know if there is a plan to put it back on? Also can anybody offer a grade for the second section on its own ( From the  Full Tilt belay to the top)?

Cheers

north_country_boy

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#1 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 05:51:55 pm
I believe Alan Cassidy had the hold? or glued it back on already.......

I'll ask my mate to ask him....

Andy F

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#2 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 07:12:20 pm
I'd heard that Malc pulled a hold off last year/year before but glued it back on again. Serps may well know more.

Serpico

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#3 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 10:13:27 pm
I'd heard that Alan Cassidy had the hold.
As for the grade for belay to belay; I've been told that it's 8a.

willackers

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#4 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 11:11:21 pm

Alan Cassidy has told me that Dave Redpath glued it back on last year, sorted.

Adam Lincoln

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#5 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 04, 2009, 11:13:02 pm

Alan Cassidy has told me that Dave Redpath glued it back on last year, sorted.

Get to it J dizzla.

Nike Air

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#6 Re: True North- Kilnsey
June 05, 2009, 08:59:39 am
Good to hear its fixed! Looks like it just needs a scrub now.

I'd heard that Alan Cassidy had the hold.
As for the grade for belay to belay; I've been told that it's 8a.

Sherlock Holmes and  Inspector Colombo have found this on Dave redpaths site___
I persisted on the final moves and linked the sequence through to the final jug. The numbers for the route when back in action look F8b for FT, then F8a+/b to the top. After the FT (30 moves) its straight into a Font 7a+ boulder problem, then a good-ish rest (35 moves) off the left hand two finger and right hand pinch. Pushing on its a big reach for a flat hold and undercut cluster and then a big reach/slap to the good hold on the lip (42 moves). A final slap or crimpy cross through leads to the jug (50 moves). From here there’s the final push into the groove of Urgent Action (F6c) (80 moves) to finish. Awesome!

 

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