[nik at work]

I've got an opportunity to get out this week but I'm commited to head out with a friend who climbs infrequently. Whilst I'd like to head to the Tor I don't want to waste his time. Is there anything there that's easy (thinking 5/low 6's rather than 6/low 7's)? It doesn't need to be completely classic just not mega steep or small holds. Any suggestions would be most welcome. There's a bit of traversing under Sardine but otherwise I lack the required in depth knowledge.
I'm not after loads of climbing just 2 or 3 problems that he can throw himself at before relaxing in the pleasant evening sun.
Or would another venue be better? Rubicon?

[dave]

for piss easy stuff at the tor you're really looking at shuffling across sardine traverse, finding a few jugs to pull on, or chimes start if they're burly. I'd go to rubicon instead.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd go to Cheedale, much better for a mix of grades.

[dave]

mmmmm cheedale, the crucible of peak bouldering. sounds like he'll be all over that dogs dinner buttress unfinished 9a traverse then.

[Kingy]

The start to the route The Toilet (just left of Pinches Wall) is an old english 5c problem - probably about Font 6a/+ in new money. The easiest Pinches Wall problem is Font 6a using everything.

[r-man]

If it's bouldering at the Tor you're after, the old rockfax lists the following problems under B5:

Chimes Start B4
Pinches Wall B3
Rightwards flakes (right of Saline Drip) B3
More flakes to the right B3
Direct to spike (right again) B2
Flat wall (right again) B2

...but Rubicon has more easier stuff and on bigger holds.

[Johnny Brown]

Shit, I was forgetting folk go to Raven Tor just to boulder. Sounds like a great way to put someone off.

[Paul B]

My other half really struggles at the tor, F6b ish is about her limit and theres not that much to go at. Too hard for Mark Leach, Boot Boys start are about it. I'd go elsewhere. Rubicon sounds like a good bet (although with the weather it'll be a sweat box).

[nik at work]

Hmmm, so there's probably enough for one evening. I'd really rather go to the Tor if it's feasible as there are things to be finished off there.
Although I had forgotten about the Dogs Dinner traverse, is that still incomplete? And filthy no doubt.

I'm ignoring you JB, although I'm surprised you suggested an alternative limestone venue instead of grit, are you mellowing?

I'm not after a huge list of classics for him to work his way through, just a couple of problems he can throw himself at for one evening (although I do take your point Paul). I'll have a ponder.

[dave]

Shit, I was forgetting folk go to Raven Tor just to boulder. Sounds like a great way to put someone off.

he's asking for recommendations of easy bouldering, not crack-fueled route babble.

I don't think those things right of saline drip get done very often/at all, would probably be either dirty or have a car parked underneath them.

you might find a bit of decent easy bouldering at harborough rocks too if you scout around a bit.

[uptown]

you might find a bit of decent easy bouldering at harborough rocks too if you scout around a bit.

Plenty of fun at harborough to be had. Rheinstor would be a good venue too. JB's right - you shouldn't put your friend off the slime.

[nik at work]

He barely climbs so I don't think he'd be put off. I just need a couple of bits of entertainment, wherever we go he'll end up lounging around very rapidly.

[Falling Down]

When I was a '6b climber' (still not far north of that mind) I used to dread going to the The Tor.. even the so called easier problems are still desperate and it's depressing when you can't do the warmup traverse or any of the pinches problems while your mate stands behind going 'Go on... go on... just keep your feet on'.  You still need loads of lock strength to do Boot Boys and Too Hard..

If it's lime then do the right thing and just let him get pumped at Rubicon or keep going and head to Ramshaw & Gib which are shady of an evening.

 

[Andy B]

One option, if he's a quick lounger, is to go to the Mutton Bustin buttress in Blackwell dale first, where there are some decent problems in the 5's and low 6's with good holds towards the right hand side. You can warm up there while he busts himself, then when he's ready to lounge, you can nip over to the Tor (only a few minutes) and complete your business there.

[andy_e]

He barely climbs so I don't think he'd be put off. I just need a couple of bits of entertainment, wherever we go he'll end up lounging around very rapidly.

That's no way to talk about GCW!

[GCW]

He barely climbs so I don't think he'd be put off. I just need a couple of bits of entertainment, wherever we go he'll end up lounging around very rapidly.

Sad, but very true 

[Andy Harris]

I'd avoid the tor like the plague. even the "warm up traverse" has a couple of dead fingery moves on it and chimes start and bootboys would be desperate for someone operating at this grade. I've seen a  lot of friends t the tor fitting this bill and they just get pissed off failing on the warm up traverse

you'd be far better at rubicon or stoney where there's muchos holds and some easy traverses and a few jug fests

theres also some good easy stuff at roche abbey

[slackline]

theres also some good easy stuff at roche abbey

...but you're not really supposed to climb there 

[nik at work]

Cheers for the opinions. It's looking like the Tor is a no-no unless he just doesn't want to climb at all. Out of interest where is this Mutton Bustin Butress (my knowledge of the lime is at best woeful) as that sounds like an interesting option.