[nik at work]

Correct me if I'm wrong here Greg but are you saying that you can't use any VP holds? It's just that on the clip I've seen of you doing it I'm sure you use the good slot/edge hold of VP for your left. The you go with your left to the poor hold on the lip to the right of the VP lip hold (hope thats clear enough). Are you saying that you've done it without using that slot hold for you left hand? If so I'm well impressed.

Once I've recovered from feeling silly about the Crank I'll have to venture back up and try the actual line of the crank rather than the neighbouring 5+

[Greg C]

Correct me if I'm wrong here Greg but are you saying that you can't use any VP holds? It's just that on the clip I've seen of you doing it I'm sure you use the good slot/edge hold of VP for your left. The you go with your left to the poor hold on the lip to the right of the VP lip hold (hope thats clear enough). Are you saying that you've done it without using that slot hold for you left hand? If so I'm well impressed.

Once I've recovered from feeling silly about the Crank I'll have to venture back up and try the actual line of the crank rather than the neighbouring 5+

As you say in that original video I am using the slot on VP but I still go to the shit hold on the lip with my left (the hard move). I've since done it without the slot on VP (i.e. straight to the lip from the two starting holds) and this makes it (almost) impossible to get the good hold on the lip (as it to far left) and therefore makes you climb the line in the most direct/hardest fashion.

[GCW]

Nice one, Greg.  That will certainly make it more independant meaning other lip holds are superfluous.

[nik at work]

Agree with GCW bon effort.

[GCW]

E-Fix (we think) and Poison had 2 ascents each yesterday.  Opinions on grade were that the 2 were much the same difficulty (assuming the E-Fix holds are right?).  Good moves on quality rock.

[nik at work]

Greg, just out of interest does the sequence used in the above clip satisfy the statement below:

After a short exchange of emails with Ru we came to the conclusion (as did Jordan) that for the 7c+/8a tick you can't use any holds on Voodoo People, slightly eliminate but there you go. Others may have done it this way but as far as I know the only people who have definitely done it this way are myself, Ru and Jordan.

Or have myself and SamD used the wrong holds? We both felt it was much the same as Poison however I am certainly willing to bow to the greater grading judgement of yourself, Ru and Jordan as you three have far more experience of these grades than myself (and I imagine more than SamD, though I wouldn't assume to speak for him). Whatever it is a great move to the lip, very satisfying.

[GCW]

Another beta request.  Just noticed this:

15th July -
Up at the newly in vogue Warton Pinnacle crag William Hickok has added a nice little addition to the Plumb Buttress circuit. Will's problem starts at the good hold on the lip immediately left of Sugarfix and traverses the lip leftward into and up Deadwood Crack. The problem goes by the classic moniker of The Lip Traverse and is in 7a+/b ballpark.

From the description it sounds like this reverses the crux of Poison, then keeps going left, low on the lip avoiding the break thing above to finish up the crack left of Lone Tree Groove.
Is that right, because I can't envisage that being 7b.  Have to look nxt visit.

[Greg C]

I have done this and it doesn't avoid the short breaks above Voodoo People. Although, as you surmised, you still have to reverse the crux of Poison. The grade is probably correct.

[GCW]

Cheers Greg, something else to try.

[GCW]

A few of the classics from Warton.  We also did BeastMaster and Black Light, but I didn't get them on video.  Sorry:

[AdamD]

Hey guys, i was wondering if its dry up at warton at the moment? I was thinking of heading down on Sunday, i've not been there yet but the problems look great.

[GCW]

Yeah, it will be.  Conditions may be a bit crap though as it's been humid and hot.

Get up there though, it's ace.

[RobinB]

Went to Warton pinnacle yesterday - really great venue with some nice problems. We did Voodoo people and Poison and had a play on E-fix. However we couldn't work out what was allowed / not allowed on E-Fix. I have now had a quick look at this thread but still can't work out exactly what's allowed and which is the 'proper' finish

I was doing the slap to the lip without the big jug out left but was using a small intermediate just below the lip to slap again from to the poorish two-finger pocket just over the lip. Then catching the relatively good jug with my right hand, crossing under with my left and then into the kneebar finish of Poison. However other video clips I have seen suggests the 'true' finish goes from the good jug with right hand to a poor, sharp pocket/crimp up and left with the left hand and then right hand slap up the corner/arete without the kneebar

Anyone got definitive beta as to what's allowed - are there in fact two possible finishes?

[GCW]

Big pinch RH, LF heel toe thing, LH fair edge at back.  Pull on, LH to dink on lip (the better of the right hand pair on Poison).  Sort feet, RH to jug, cross under match, finish up crack with or without knee bar.  I don't see why you can't use intermediates as long as you avoid stuff on Voodoo.

[RobinB]

Thanks GCW - sounds like what I was trying. Now I need a decent weather forecast before heading back up there!

[RobinB]

Anyone know if it would be worth visiting Warton tomorrow (Wednesday) or is it likely to be wet? Was dry Sunday but I'm assuming it's beein raining since

[GCW]

Yeah, rained yesterday morning and this afternoon.  Some stuff will be dry, Plumb buttress should be OK.  Black Wall is less likely to be in.  If it stays dry you should be OK for E-Fix.
Have fun.

How was your cream tea by the way?

[nik at work]

Did you go to the tea room by Woodwell after (or indeed before) visiting Warton?
Think I saw you there (assuming you are who I think you are)...

I think it dries out pretty quick up there (although the crack at the end of debaser can stay wet for a while but I pressume you're wanting to do e-fix). Mind you I dunno how grim the weather's been up that way. GCW will have already supplied a definitive answer while II'm typing this anyway.
Any opinion on the grade of e-fix as viewpoints do seem to vary?

[RobinB]

Wow - the spies of the Cream Tea Police are everywhere! We did indeed go to the Woodwell cafe and very nice it was too - were you in the Cafe as well? Tried not to eat too much as we went to Trowbarrow later - I should have pigged out at the cafe as Trowbarrow was far too steep for us tired weaklings anyway

Thanks for the feedback on the weather - I think we will try and make it up there tomorrow as it is E-fix we're interested in, as long as my mate Rob can get the time off work. Also wanted to try the 7c that goes left out of Voodoo 

Can't really comment on the grade of E-fix as looking at the thread I suspect my right hand was higher on the starting pinch than other people - I had it at the top of the block rather than lower down - is this in? Thinking about it, it would be possible to move your right hand to this position even if you started with it lower on the block as the starting left hand is good

[GCW]

The thing left of Voodoo is a tight line, originally done starting as for Voodoo.  There's arguable a better start if you do the sitter to Voodoo to the big slot, but then get the pinch out left (like I use on Hoodoo) to go straight up to the left end of the Voodoo slot above the lip.  Does that makes sense?

E-Fix: people seem to use the top of the pinch anyway, but I doubt it makes a big difference in all fairness.

Re: cafe spies.  Nik at work was just very excited 'cos he thought it was you, if you are who he thinks you are, but he daren't ask for your autograph in case you aren't who he thought you were.  Or something

[RobinB]

Yep - beta for line left of Voodoo makes total sense. That's the way we tried it - quite a hard slap from the pinch into the left end of the slot then finish up some sharp crimps, avoiding the arete/crack out left. A bit squeezed in but still worthwhile

[GCW]

quite a hard slap from the pinch into the left end of the slot then finish up some sharp crimps, avoiding the arete/crack out left.

Yeah, that's it.  I find the move to the slot thing is OK, but I can keep a heel/toe in with my left foot so it goes static.

[AdamD]

Hey guys, do you reckon Warton upper will be dry tomorrow?

[GCW]

Plumb might be OK, I would expect a bit of seepage in the usual places though.  Totally Focussed should be OK too.

[Richie Crouch]

It was in very good nick today for us, should be fine I imagine. Pretty warm once the sun came around about 3ish but the breeze kept it bearable