[Moo]

yo anyone got a vid with the numbers on this problem? my lass is keen but is worried about straying off line (into the arete holds).

(i have looked obviously but could nay find nowt)

cheers

[old cheese]

No vid but you just need to stay away from the arete. up with left hand in crack. find the only good hold in horizontal breaks up and right, bounce across from one hold to another on same break, match. Poor holds in the top break reaches the ledge but go right whatever you do. I was stuck in on the ledge up left for a while when i was on my own, scarey stuff

[Johnny Brown]

Don't remember the arete being in reach. As Old Cheese says, start with left hand in the crack and it all follows.

[nai]

I didn't use the crack at all (although it was within reach), difficult to explain given the amount of possible holds on the face so here's a beta map I did for a mate:



Start RH undercutting break
LH to crimp 3
RH to low crimp 2

LF on hold left of crack
RF comes up to shelf
slight twist to the left and RH to crimp 4, feels better a bit further left than you think it should
LH to crimp 5, bomber.
walk feet as necessary and pop for the top.

This might be shortarse-centric beta as taller folk might find holds I use a bit low and cramped.

Good luck, quality problem, better than anything on the Eaglestone I reckon.

[Moo]

 :great:that's awesome cheers guys  (she's 5ft 2inches so i think short arse beta applies.

[galpinos]

Ian, are you popping with your right hand for the top? I could get to crimps 4 and 5 alright but all my weight was on my feet ( a rarity for me). It seemed inpossible to get my feet up any higher as the crimps felt rubbish.

[Johnny Brown]

That's the crux!

[galpinos]

That's the crux!

That'll be why I can't do it! The way Ian was describing it, it seemed that it would be a formality!

[nai]

  sorry.

I must have gone right handed because the left-hand crimp felt bomber to me.  I do remember struggling with my feet for a while, think I was trying to get them onto the most obvious footholds?  Then I tried something else and it worked ok.  I must have brought the left foot up first because most of your weight would be on the right standing on the shelf.  Looking at the picture maybe onto the seem immediately above the break and quite far right so that your weight stayed low and distributed.

Maybe catch a toe hook with the R as it comes off the shelf to counter any swing?  Then place it at the same level as the LF, any higher and you'd weight your fingers more.  But equally it could go up to the crimp, ity'd be a harder pull off fingers though rather than just a pop off your toes.

Once again, apologies for misleading, it wasn;t intentional, it does feel quite straightforward when you get it right (but then doesn't it always...)

[galpinos]

No problem Ian. I was hoping that I'd missed something obvious. Cheers for the extra detailed beta.

[Dutch]

When we did it we went off the crack with LH upto 4/5 (which ever was best) with RH.  We then kept LH low on something like 3 and rocked up leftwards with left foot on a seem at the top of the crack (Just left of the crack).  Then went for a hold with the LH just right of the arete.  Couldn't match holds 4 and 5- felt    Tom your Julie has pretty strong fingers though and should be able to yard off any of those holds.

[Moo]

she put it in her tiny satchel on friday, made those top crimps look like jugs, cheers to the guy who i rudely never got the name of for givin us some more refined beta!!! 

[highrepute]

she put it in her tiny satchel on friday, made those top crimps look like jugs, cheers to the guy who i rudely never got the name of for givin us some more refined beta!!! 

That would be me. Thought she would get it, was caught between staying to watch or getting out of the cold. Good effort.

BETA: used was, with LH in crack, to undercut (2) (from nais pic) with RH and go up to crimp (5) with LH. I was told this is how sam whittaker does it in winter sess.