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Mecca Extension undercut
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Mecca Extension undercut
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JC
addict
Posts: 130
Karma: +24/-0
Mecca Extension undercut
April 27, 2009, 05:06:28 pm
For anyone who cares i was on Mecca Extension this afternoon and managed to pull off the left hand undercut at the start of the crux section
However its not as dire as i first thought because there is still part of it left - its about half the size now.
Having re-climbed the top half after, i reckon that it hasn't made any difference to be honest. I think i found the main part of the hold that broke in the grass below.
IMO it hasn't made it any harder and probably not worth bothering about, but thought i would let people know anyway.
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Kingy
forum hero
Posts: 1683
Karma: +77/-2
#1 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
April 28, 2009, 09:57:08 pm
Cheers for flagging this up Jon, I have tried this once and I remember that undercut was pretty small to start off with. I will mention this to Steve and Paul Reeve and to see if they think it wants gluing, please hang onto the piece, nice one. Good luck on it!!
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Stu Littlefair
forum hero
Posts: 1855
Karma: +286/-2
#2 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
April 29, 2009, 07:46:23 am
Damn!
If it really is half the size now, I can't imagine it hasn't made it any harder. Getting into and out of that undercut was by far the hardest part of the extension before it broke, so...
Like ted said, hang on to the hold until Steve or Paul have had a look at it..
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corniceman
regular
Posts: 48
Karma: +1/-0
#3 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 01, 2009, 11:42:58 am
I held reevies ropes on it last night and he felt there had bee a massive change. From the years I spent on it and didnt do it I know how vital both L and R undercuts are. Paul and I both feel that if repairable or stick back onable that the job should be done. In fact paul couldnt re do the move yesterday despite big links up to it.
I took the choice few years back to glue on the small pinch replacing the one that broke and I admit I didnt do the best job on it that I could.
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corniceman
regular
Posts: 48
Karma: +1/-0
#4 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 10:08:05 am
Now back on courtesy of the Reeve.
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Stu Littlefair
forum hero
Posts: 1855
Karma: +286/-2
#5 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 10:12:43 am
Thank god for that.
Cheers Paul
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north_country_boy
junky
Posts: 939
Karma: +37/-0
#6 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 01:54:06 pm
Having seen some of Paul's previous masterpieces, i'd take a look before congratulating......haha
All the insitu draws have now been removed from Mecca too.
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Kingy
forum hero
Posts: 1683
Karma: +77/-2
#7 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 02:09:30 pm
Hi, the long greyish petzl sling that was on the 4th bolt by the crux is mine as is the short pink petzl sling that was on the 6th bolt. No worries about removing the draws, however I would appreciate if these 2 slings could be returned to me by whoever removed them. (I'm not bothered about the crabs as they are not mine). I will be there this sat.
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north_country_boy
junky
Posts: 939
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#8 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 02:40:37 pm
I'll pass on the msg to Rob and Paul.....
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Kingy
forum hero
Posts: 1683
Karma: +77/-2
#9 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 02:50:05 pm
Nice one thanks NCB, its just that the one that was on 4th bolt was absolutely the right length for the crux clip and I don't own one that is the same length. Its a horribly reachy clip. I have tried putting a longer one on to make it easier to clip but it somehow makes the next moves harder bizarrely as the rope gets wrapped around your thigh on the crucial egyptian resulting in a nasty fall.
I have just emailled Reevesy and I'm sure I'll pick them up off him soon enough. I was bouldering with him last nite at the unmentionable place and if I had known it could have been then.
BTW I'll be at Malham on sun if you're about, drop me a text if you're gonna be there.
Cheers
Ted
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north_country_boy
junky
Posts: 939
Karma: +37/-0
#10 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 04:00:47 pm
Cool, Ted. Yeah will be there sunday, see you there.
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
Karma: +33/-3
#11 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 13, 2009, 07:59:49 pm
i might come too but after 3 4 months off may get
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corniceman
regular
Posts: 48
Karma: +1/-0
#12 Re: Mecca Extension undercut
May 15, 2009, 03:28:24 pm
last Autumn I left a good quality Black Diamond Quickdraw on Whore of Babylon as part of my attempts to link Mecca into that. I didnt think someone would take it. Any one know who might have it?
Simon
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