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Careless Torque vid (Read 2789 times)

T_B

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Careless Torque vid
March 03, 2009, 11:23:33 am
Is there any video footage of someone climbing Careless Torque? Or maybe Jonny Brown can describe the first few moves for me  ;) Tried the start on Sunday - left hand on the arete with thumb, right hand in dish, left foot pushing on obvious smear. Pull body up and slap over for the obvious notch with the right hand? When do you move your right foot? Or do you initially match right above the left hand (nearly managed this), then go again?

cofe

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#1 Re: Careless Torque vid
March 03, 2009, 11:33:14 am
think there was one of andy brown doing it a while back but the search function doesn't want to play ball at the minute.

Jaspersharpe

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#3 Re: Careless Torque vid
March 03, 2009, 12:48:46 pm
I've got a copy of the Andy Brown footage.  It's not top quality, but I can send it to you if you struggle to find it elsewhere.


Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: Careless Torque vid
March 03, 2009, 04:44:01 pm
Quote
Tried the start on Sunday - left hand on the arete with thumb,

Haha you lanky bastard that's about five moves in for Bransby.
Tips:
Ryan is using what seems to have become the tall mans sequence, ie left foot stupidly high on big foothold; I use the orange smear below and then step through onto the big foothold with right foot.
Note the toehook during the match. When you match on the arete, the higher the better.
The move is basically about deep lock strength on left elbow, half the technique can go out the window if you have that.

T_B

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#6 Re: Careless Torque vid
March 03, 2009, 07:31:04 pm
I could get my left foot onto the obvious push against smear right by the arete, not the one lower, nor the higher one which I assumed you stepped the right through onto. I'm actually pretty flexi in the hips, but with so much leg in the way, I doubt I could get it much higher. Got something off that toe hook, so know what you mean... looks as though Andy Brown just casually pops up with the right hand though. I was definitely struggling to reach onto the arete and match just above the left hand. A summer of deep lock training then ...

 

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