[Palomides]

Interesting and only slightly incomprehensible article about holds, routes, chipping and Buoux

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/contributions/rock/a-dream-cross-over

[Darren S]

Had a look at the route last week whilst having a walk with the dog. Was on it about 12 years ago and maybe one day I will get around to doing it.

Nice article,

[SA Chris]

Was wondering about the old "cutting edge" french sport routes like this. Now that they are no longer at the cutting edge, are some now perceived as classics  and receive a steady string of ascents, and are seen as rites of passage, or has it been realised now that while they are hard, others are not actually that good, and fade into obscurity? Or both?

[gr]

Anyone else remember the article by Antoine Le Menestrel about climbing a lot of the chipped routes at Buoux without the offending holds? Can't remember which mag. I'll have to have a search through the collection.

[Jaspersharpe]

I don't get how he can say he's done The Rose as it would have been with natural holds. Whether it would have been possible is one thing but there's no way you could return the rock to how it was before he chipped it. He goes on about one improved two finger pocket but nearly every hold on it was improved to some extent. The pockets on the cross through are blatantly drilled!

Despite this it's still an amazing route.

[GCW]

Interesting stuff.  

Does this bit remind you of anyone?  

The crag of Buoux is filled with history, from the first routes opened by aid climbing with  pitons to the most difficult routes. Among the many stories, I will tell you about my Buoux and its famous route, "La rose et le vampire". Climbing is the story we experience. Life is one pitch. Climbing shows us, through the mirror of the ascent, our own different facets. Height generates a challenge, our climbing partner belays our life. At the foot of the rock lies the choice of a pitch making a wish come true. I choose a universe, a difficulty, an effort, the beauty of a "line", its story.
It is with these needs that my desire to climb is expressed, almost a primitive hunger.Buoux is a magical place. If the wish grows inside of me it means that a story experienced will emerge to the surface of my being, just like champagne bubbles in a little corner of paradise where the Aiguebrun runs all year round.

[Jaspersharpe]

Sintoine O'LeMconoghestrel?