[nathan wind]

Anyone got any good beta for the start of this, ie; the move to the good flat hold? the sequence I was trying was to go from the starting holds upto a crimp for my rh, lh on a small hold out left, heel toe for my left foot, go for another hold out slightly further left, hold this, right foot into the original (starting) rh hold then press rightwards to the smallish hold out right beneath the flattie. does anyone use the smallish spike as an imbetween hold as you move rightwards?

[unclesomebody]

how about this for some beta noob;

PUT YOUR REQUEST IN THE RIGHT FORUM.

and welcome to the wonderful UKB on behalf of all it's beautiful and kind members.

[Bubba]

Feeling angry uncle?

Perhaps we should have "beta - bouldering" and a "beta - chuffing" forums?

[Bonjoy]

 I use the small sidepull/ear/spike and go again for jug with RH, but everyone calls me a freak for doing it that way.

[Johnny Brown]

Freak.

[nathan wind]

I use the small sidepull/ear/spike and go again for jug with RH, but everyone calls me a freak for doing it that way.

cheers, I'll try thats next..

[dobbin]

he is a freak. dont listen, it will make your ears bleed.

I cant do it his way either, I go from the 3rd and 4th slots on PB, over with rh to bottom crimp, walk feet through and lh to higher crimp, rf where lh was and rock up to pinch below jug with right, lf on, rf off and pull slowly through for jug.

One more hard move and you have as good as done it.

[nathan wind]

he is a freak. dont listen, it will make your ears bleed.

I cant do it his way either, I go from the 3rd and 4th slots on PB, over with rh to bottom crimp, walk feet through and lh to higher crimp, rf where lh was and rock up to pinch below jug with right, lf on, rf off and pull slowly through for jug.

One more hard move and you have as good as done it.

cheers for that, I thought that combination might work, rh bottom crimp, lh higher crimp then rf where lh was, then rock up, just didn't get the chance to try it as I was pretty knackered by the time I got on the route...

[dave]

the easiest way of doing the start to R&H is thus:

LH starts in the big square jug pocket -the one with the pinch beneath it - remember the top of this pinch it is important later.
RH starts in the good slot about 2foot right.
RF on an obvious shiny foothold directly below the left hand hold.
Pull on and get the lower of the twin crimps (the slanty one) with the RH, pinching it not crimping it.
The LF goes into a heel toe on the slopey pinch of powerband over left. If this feels poor then you're not twisting it in enough - it is solid.
Pull yourself in and up and then get the second crimp (just above your RH) with your LH - tip its very positive, moreso in the left hand side where it meets a corner.
Then comes the tricky bit - you need to bring your left foot out of the heel toe and put it on the positive flatty pinch thing in the break - this was the thing just under your left hand when you pulled on the problem. You can either cut loose and just put it on this hold, or bring your right foot up to this hold, take the heel out, thne swap feet on it (no cuting loose required).
Then just pull/pop up for the pinch hood above with RH (this is only good if you get it on the left, its shit on the right, then grab jug with LH.

dobbin's sequence sounds suspiciously like R&H The Hard Way , and thus is best ignored.

[Oli]

Apologies for using an ancient thread...

What's the beta for the move from holding the jug to getting stood up on it with your LH in a small sidepully undercut thing up and left? Do you use the gaston as an intermediate and then go up to some crimps near the previously mentioned LH sidepully undercut thing.

I bow to the anticipated wave of superior Tor knowledge that I'm sure will come forth.

[abarro81]

Has it at the start...
You around this weekend for a session there/rubicon/both?

[Oli]

Cheers beast. 
That seems about right.

I'm probably going to aim for some Lime on Saturday and grit on Sunday, weather dependant. I'll let you know on friday, and we'll sort some kind of vague plan. Either of the peak's two premier crags suits me for saturday....