[Krank]

right, i have got a dodgy finger at the moment so i am after a list of classic smearing slabs. I live in leek so i have got a list of things to do round the roaches area but i have little knowledge of the east side. Perfect slabs for me would be on pure smears, up to about 6m and between 6c-7b. The only ones i have got on my list so far are the slabs in Kayak area at Curbar where i will be going on sunday if the weather is good. All suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Cheers

[dave]

there ain't many slabs thats are "pure" smearing, and the kayak slabs aren't some of them.

you could try beauty at stanage for a start.

[Mirf]

Counterstroke of Equity, skyline. great smearing!

[Ru]

Boba Fett and the problems to its left at the Spring Boulders are smeary and good. Alternatively, or in addition,l put a rope on and work your way through the other roaches slabs like San Melas, Entropy's Jaw etc.

[Krank]

I was gonna start on the curbar ones cos my mate has told me i would like them, i aint seen them yet but thought they would be a start.
I have got most of the stuff on the far/skyline on my list and i love the boba fett slab, it was more the east side i was after. I would go for slabs that weren't pure smears as long as they were easyish on the fingers.
Any ideas on hard but safe slabs on a rope would be cool aswell, but on the east side.

[dave]

don't get me wrong the curbar slabs are great routes, they're just not anywhere near pure smearing, more just standard grit slab climbing, pockets, breaks etc.

i presume you've already doen that smearing slab at 5 clouds.

[Krank]

Which one? the bouldering slab near the tetris bloc or is it a route?. I haven't done that many slabs yet my smearing fetish is quite new, I've ticked san melas and chalkstorm and the spring boulders slabs and the dougless boulder but thats about it. One day i hope my new obsession to become fatale 
Does anyone have any beta on Particle Exchange it seems way harder than The Rumour.

[dave]

aye the bouldering one, low angled.

[Eddies]

Throw a rope on 'Downhill Racer' thats a Dawes classic, im game.

Ru's guide has a list of classic slabs in the back, try them:

Beauty - Stanage - 6c
Slab right of crescent arete - Stanage - 7a
Satin - Stanage - 7a
Miles Slab - Wimberry - 7b+

[Krank]

Throw a rope on 'Downhill Racer' thats a Dawes classic, im game.

im loving the mats ground up vibe at the moment, might have to make a trip to try and secure a ronin. Anyway i thought you were scared of ropes . If you were up early enough you would be on, its 6 oclock or never.

[Krank]

aye the bouldering one, low angled.

Yeah i liked them, good for some no handed trickery

[butters]

Throw a rope on 'Downhill Racer' thats a Dawes classic, im game.

I assume that you mean Dawes classic one handed - the FA was done by Pete Livesey.

bluebrad

[dave]

the crux of downhill racer is fine with a couple of normal mats. if you're looking at falling off higher than this you shouldn't be on it, or you probably wouldn't be able to do the start anyway. either way you don't need an airpad for it!

[Krank]

I dont want an airpad for just this, i want one cos i have had a knee replacement and it might go pop again one day and i dont want this to happen. I have some highball plans for the winter which is why i want an airpad. DHR looked ok to me when i had a look at it which is why i wont be following eddies rope throwing advice, bad form eddie old chap .

[travs]

If you've got a finger injury you need to be careful with a lot of the suggestions so far as virtually all of them revolve around rock ups off finger edges or pebble pulling. However, how about the routes around Great Slab at Froggat, Count's butress slabs at Stannage and of course all the classics at the Roaches - Smear Test, Blood sport etc.

[Andy B]

I can't think of many pure smearing problems:

chicken ninja, stanton [it's a bit easier than your given grade range but brilliant].
angel falls, eagle tor [unfortunately banned]
Green death super direct start [except for one left hand pull at the end]
the steep 7a slab on the boysen's crack boulder, robin hood's stride

problems that should require just one finger or thumb:

the 'tiny slab' roblems at burbage north
beauty, stanage
home cooking slab, burbage south

problems that are mainly smearing but will probably require a bit of pulling too:

honourary caley, stanage
both slabs next to crescent arete
satin, stanage
deliverance face traverse, stanage
elmer fudd, baslow
winsome, wimberry
miles' slab, wimberry
downhill racer direct start, froggatt
dry wit in a wet country, robin hoods stride

hope you find something to play on from these.

[Eddies]

im loving the mats ground up vibe at the moment, might have to make a trip to try and secure a ronin. Anyway i thought you were scared of ropes . If you were up early enough you would be on, its 6 oclock or never.

Its not ropes im scared of its heights! But im more scared of early mornings so your plan is dismissed 

[Krank]

Cheers Andy i will start to plow my way through some of those, if the weather ever drys up. Where is Green Death sounds like a corker.
Eddie, i might be going to the roaches on sunday for some slabin but my phones fooked so mail me your number and i will let you know, it will be a reasonable time for a change.

[Andy B]

sorry, green death is at millstone. it is a big E5, but the boulder problem finishes on big ledges a few metres up. The Super Direct Start goes straight up the corner to these.

[philo]

The Nadser 7b+ Kyloe in the woods

[SA Chris]

The Nadser 7b+ Kyloe in the woods

I woudn't be taking any codfingers anywhere near that.

[Krank]

The Nadser 7b+ Kyloe in the woods

I woudn't be taking any codfingers anywhere near that.

My finger isnt completly coded anymore its just a little tweaky o pockets. Kyloe's a little far from home, east side of the peak is what im after. But thanks anyway, i will have a look at it when i make long over due trip to the wood. 

[SA Chris]

The Nadser 7b+ Kyloe in the woods

I woudn't be taking any codfingers anywhere near that.

My finger isnt completly coded anymore its just a little tweaky o pockets. 

I wouldn't be taking any finger that's just a little tweaky o' pockets near that either.