UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: GazM on March 24, 2020, 04:55:33 pm

Title: The Lockdown Project
Post by: GazM on March 24, 2020, 04:55:33 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.
https://youtu.be/jS6Q93KBrR4
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on March 24, 2020, 05:29:59 pm
I like the idea of this

A front lever
A one armer (without sacrificing elbows)
Make an inroad for into the pile of books by the bed
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on March 24, 2020, 05:42:23 pm
All dependent on receiving delivery of pull-up bar and beastmaker (as well as my ability to install):

1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. BW hang on the small BM 2K edges (14mm I think)
3. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
4. Front lever (will require the most work)

If too easy, will add more. Also need to not re-injure...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Mugabe251 on March 24, 2020, 10:38:15 pm
A Beastmaker 1000 and a pile of weights is all I've got. Henceforth I'm going for:

1) Pull-up at at 150% bodyweight.
2) Front lever. Can only hold one with a leg tucked so that'll keep me occupied.for ages surely.
3) Half crimp the outer bottom slots (18mm?) with an added 30+kg. Started on 24, so this should be alright.

Utterly boring, mind-numbing stuff really. There's little I wouldn't do for a home 40 degree board right now with a few insurmountable projects on minging holds.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Nibile on March 25, 2020, 09:07:34 am
Following holds and moves?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: shark on March 25, 2020, 09:34:50 am
Some good insights on how to view and approach current circumstances by Steve Bechtel from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 25, 2020, 09:44:53 am
I'd give my left nut for a board. If I'd had a bit more foresight I should have started building one in the yard weeks ago. Oh well...

- bodyweight one arm hangs on the middle Beastmaker slot, but not sure how realistic this is given I am at 5kg assist currently.
- weighted repeaters on 2K bottom outside. 10kg so far, would like to think I can push this to 15kg or so.
- work out how to use the micros properly; add weight?
- consistent one armer
- fuck it, might as well stick front lever on here too.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 09:53:50 am
In order of importance:
1. Use this opportunity to rehab my dodgy PIP joint. Have made progress on this recently, though the lockdown puts an end to physio sessions.

2. Increase my Anderson hangs PB for my 1/2 crimp (BM2k small edges on home setup) from 15-20-25kg to 20-25-30kg. I suspect this is optimistic, and can assure you that status updates will make your video updates look as gripping as Game of Thrones

3. Bodyweight hang lattice edge 5s on strong/uninjured arm with no pulley, and +1-2kg with 1kg on a pulley (I find having the pulley to stop rotation makes a big difference)

4. Stop comfort eating large amounts of cheese and chocolate (not in combination, I should add) every day.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: TobyD on March 25, 2020, 10:11:39 am
I have a pair of rock rings, a pull up bar, a road bike, and a yoga mat. If the lockdown becomes extreme- which I think is quite likely if selfish assholes keep pushing it - I have a basic turbo trainer.

1) stay healthy
2) 1 arm lock off on bar
3) do 10 pull ups...
4) maximise the brief quality time outside
5) try to stay away from comfort drinking in solitary lockdown. Fortunately my local supermarket had sold out of all the wine that wasn't either too cheap to be worth it or too expensive to consider!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: TobyD on March 25, 2020, 10:12:51 am
Alex, what pip rehab are you doing?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 10:26:29 am
Well mostly not pissing it off! Also:
- Trying to regain full range of motion (i.e. being able to close it to a tight fist properly like on the other hand)
- Doing some light "no hang" mono work on it and gradually increasing the weight on that
- Regular icing too

I had 3 sessions of shockwave therapy with James @ sheffield climbing clinic, which seemed to be helping slightly, but that's off the cards until lockdown ends
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: jwi on March 25, 2020, 11:17:24 am

2. Increase my Anderson hangs

What are those? N x 6 x (10s hang); r=5s, R=3min?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nai on March 25, 2020, 11:23:42 am
Goals:

1. Stay uninjured

2. improve absolute finger strength. Aim for BW deadhang first joint edge but likely to depend on how long the lockdown is

3. improve shoulder strength. I can currently hold a hang with shoulder engaged and reverse out of it. Improve that so I can:

a. inititate scap pullup from hanging straight arm, shoulder completely disengaged
b. Carry that on into a one armer

4. work on core weakness that makes toeing down into a foothold when stretched on a roof really hard (e.g keeping RF on when removing the kneebar on Bens). 

Not sure what makes this so hard for me, hamstring or lower back maybe?

5. Try to increase my Reach

tomtom's thread highlighted that I have the same reach as someone shorter than me with less span so I'm hoping working on shoulder and back mobility will help me increase that.

Good luck everyone, remember we're after progress, not perfection.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: HarryBD on March 25, 2020, 11:37:49 am
1. Pullup count up to 20

2. Front lever progression to 1 leg extended 5s each side (currently able to move into both knees fully tucked and hold for about 2s)

3. 50 pressups

4. Improve my woeful pancake split

5. +8kg two arm hang on my fingerboard edges 10s
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nick63 on March 25, 2020, 11:39:46 am
This is a great idea. Don't post on UKB much if at all but here goes

Lockdown goals

1. BW pull up x 2

2. Front lever. This will be very hard. I try but the closest I get is looking like I'm sitting in an arm chair.

3. One arm hang on middle BM 2000 with 8kg of assistance. Should be possible on left but a long shot on the right

4. Stronger shoulders. One arm shoulder shrugs x 3 R+L

5. I'm lucky enough to have home board so several long term projects mainly on Hardwood holds

Won't have as much time as some as I work as a physio for NHS but no excuses. Stay safe and healthy
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 11:41:06 am

2. Increase my Anderson hangs

What are those? N x 6 x (10s hang); r=5s, R=3min?

7 -on 3-off repeaters (i.e. like "normal"). You do 7 hangs at a certain weight (let's call it W) (i.e. 1min 7s worth of hanging and resting), then rest 3 min, then 6 hangs @ W+5kg, then rest 3 min, then 5 hangs @W+10kg.

I then rest 5 min and move on to another grip where I do the same (I think in the original protocol, which is from the Anderson brothers book, they rest 3 min also between grips but I like a longer rest where I do some shoulder press or push ups). I do anywhere from 3-6 grip types in the session depending on how much volume I want. If you complete all hangs on a grip type then you make that grip type harder in the next session...

I really like them and think I get good gains from them
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: 36chambers on March 25, 2020, 11:43:20 am
- Doing some light "no hang" mono work on it and gradually increasing the weight on that

I've been playing around with these recently. What finger position are you using?

So far, I've been using a strict right angle chisel (apart from my pinkies) and can't decide if it's too risky doing this and whether I should just stick to a more open handed position. I suppose the latter is more application to monoing when climbing, but I'm just using this as a novel exercise for general finger strength.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 11:58:34 am
I'm dragging, like I would with a normal mono. Feels like it stretches the finger out nicely, but I'm not trying hard - "familiar discomfort" at most. I think monkeyboy has been trying it with fingercurls, but that sounds dangerous to a man with fingers as tweaky as mine!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 25, 2020, 12:18:14 pm

7 -on 3-off repeaters (i.e. like "normal"). You do 7 hangs at a certain weight (let's call it W) (i.e. 1min 7s worth of hanging and resting), then rest 3 min, then 6 hangs @ W+5kg, then rest 3 min, then 5 hangs @W+10kg.

I then rest 5 min and move on to another grip where I do the same (I think in the original protocol, which is from the Anderson brothers book, they rest 3 min also between grips but I like a longer rest where I do some shoulder press or push ups). I do anywhere from 3-6 grip types in the session depending on how much volume I want. If you complete all hangs on a grip type then you make that grip type harder in the next session...

I really like them and think I get good gains from them

Interesting. My main issue with repeaters like that is 3 secs doesn't feel long enough to chalk up and if I don't the edge gets greasy. This reached a nadir last night when I greased out of the 2K bottom outside unexpectedly and clattered into the ground. Suffice to say some swearing was heard.

I've also moved away from repeaters on pockets/ two 3 finger edges in favour of 4 finger edges as I found them quite tweaky. This does mean 95% of my fingerboard is redundant but maybe i should diversify again... 
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 12:24:45 pm
Yeah, you can't chalk up. I don't find it a real issue at these kind of temps though...

Conversely to you, I find 3 finger drag the safest option of all - it's monos, B2 and crimps that tweak me, and certain edges are tweaky 1/2-crimp on my rh, but not really the BM 2k edges as my 1/2-crimp can be a little more open and less aggressive
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on March 25, 2020, 12:27:00 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.
https://youtu.be/jS6Q93KBrR4

Good thread, thanks. Super jealous of your board...what I wouldn't give! Hindsight is a terrible thing sometimes.

Number one goal for me is to keep eating healthily and avoid a descent into video games, pizza and beer.

All I have at home is a Beastmaker 2000 and a pull up bar, plus a few peripheral items including a mono trainer and pulley, so gainz will revolve around those. Haven't done any hang boarding for about 6 months bar the odd brief "check-in" type session so interesting to see where I'm at.

- 20s +25kg half crimp hang on the small edges (+16kg feels fairly maximal atm, never done any more than 10s hangs before)
- 10s +40kg hang on a 19mm edge (just the larger slot with a peg stuffed in the back - would equal my PB from last Autumn)
- 10s +25kg middle finger mono pick up (+15kg feels okay atm, easing into it slowly)
- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)
- 10s one arm lock off on the pull up bar (see above)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nai on March 25, 2020, 12:28:22 pm
I've been doing mono pickups as well, using right angles for IMR, drag for pinky.
Not training this strictly for monos though, more thinking I'll increase each fingers individual strength to make them stronger collectively.

Been doing repeater style sets rather than maximal hangs.  Not pushing it, having two rest days between sessions
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 25, 2020, 12:36:41 pm

- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)


I just had to get up and go and look at my fingerboard to confirm the existence of this slot as I couldn't imagine its existence. It is profoundly unchalked compared to all the others  :lol:

When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 25, 2020, 12:44:43 pm
Yeah, you can't chalk up. I don't find it a real issue at these kind of temps though...

Conversely to you, I find 3 finger drag the safest option of all - it's monos, B2 and crimps that tweak me, and certain edges are tweaky 1/2-crimp on my rh, but not really the BM 2k edges as my 1/2-crimp can be a little more open and less aggressive

Long story, but I had delayed the session so my girlfriend could join in when she got back from work. She then decided she didn't want to after a bad day, by which time the heating in the room below had come on which experience has taught me makes a massive difference! Probably be fine most of the time.

So what does a standard set of 3 grips look like for you? 3 finger drag bottom outside, 4 finger half crimp bottom outside, A.N. Other?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: cheque on March 25, 2020, 12:56:30 pm
In the aims for 2020 thread I put something like ďmatch or exceed all my pre-injury strength PBsĒ. A few times since then Iíve thought that it was a daft thing to put since Iíd just go climbing all summer but it now seems like the most realistic one I logged!

In order of importance:
1. Use this opportunity to rehab my dodgy PIP joint. Have made progress on this recently, though the lockdown puts an end to physio sessions.

Not climbing or training at all for five months fixed mine.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nai on March 25, 2020, 12:58:08 pm
When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...

AAA battery makes it about 20mm
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 25, 2020, 01:08:41 pm
So what does a standard set of 3 grips look like for you? 3 finger drag bottom outside, 4 finger half crimp bottom outside, A.N. Other?

My standard session is currently :
- 4 finger 1/2 crimp
- mid 2 drag
- front 2 drag
- front 3 drag
- pinch balls
(then sometimes BFR at the end too)

If I were only doing 3 I guess I'd do 1/2 crimp, mid 2 and front 3 as they seem the most relevant
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on March 25, 2020, 01:45:47 pm

- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)


I just had to get up and go and look at my fingerboard to confirm the existence of this slot as I couldn't imagine its existence. It is profoundly unchalked compared to all the others  :lol:

That's cos you're well strong init, you big 8c monster :lol:


When you say a peg stuffed in the back is this a bit of wood cut to size on cord? Might be a good solution for me too seeing as 20mm edges do not seem to be a thing...

Just a plastic clothes peg... found them easier to get out after than a battery. Measured them at 19mm but size doesn't really matter, more consistency (so I'm told ;))
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 25, 2020, 01:55:07 pm
No idea why there is chalk on most of the holds to be honest as I've never used most of them in anger...


Just a plastic clothes peg... found them easier to get out after than a battery. Measured them at 19mm but size doesn't really matter, more consistency (so I'm told ;))

Great, that and the battery are good tips; cheers!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on March 25, 2020, 02:35:30 pm
Balance a broom on my finger while on the balance board. If i get that down, dribble a basketball doing the same. Kids more impressed by me doing this than repeaters. A career in the circus (or more likely as a busker in present climate) awaits.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Pricey on March 25, 2020, 02:42:55 pm
Anything you want to achieve while we're having this enforced break from normality? 1-5-9? Learn how to crochet? Potty train the toddler?

I'm lucky enough to have a board at home so decided to set a project today that I'll try to do over the coming weeks at home. Heres the first gripping video installment. Suffice to say, it's still a project. I'll try to keep posting up as (if) I make progress.
https://youtu.be/jS6Q93KBrR4

Good thread, thanks. Super jealous of your board...what I wouldn't give! Hindsight is a terrible thing sometimes.

Number one goal for me is to keep eating healthily and avoid a descent into video games, pizza and beer.

All I have at home is a Beastmaker 2000 and a pull up bar, plus a few peripheral items including a mono trainer and pulley, so gainz will revolve around those. Haven't done any hang boarding for about 6 months bar the odd brief "check-in" type session so interesting to see where I'm at.

- 20s +25kg half crimp hang on the small edges (+16kg feels fairly maximal atm, never done any more than 10s hangs before)
- 10s +40kg hang on a 19mm edge (just the larger slot with a peg stuffed in the back - would equal my PB from last Autumn)
- 10s +25kg middle finger mono pick up (+15kg feels okay atm, easing into it slowly)
- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)
- 10s one arm lock off on the pull up bar (see above)

Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol? I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying! 
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on March 25, 2020, 02:49:27 pm
All dependent on receiving delivery of pull-up bar and beastmaker (as well as my ability to install):
Update: Beastmaker being delivered Friday! Very impressed with the speed

Attempted to put up the plywood backboard last night but cord wasn't long enough for drill - extension lead arriving Friday as well  :slap:
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: shark on March 25, 2020, 03:56:54 pm
Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol? I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

Some interesting stuff on 30-45 duration (density) hangs here:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

Primary benefits seem to be hypertrophy and improving tendon density to improve capacity for higher loads. Iím assuming there are endurance benefits too but that doesnít seem to be explicitly mentioned.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on March 25, 2020, 04:36:32 pm
Hi Nick, whatís the rationale for the longer hangs? Just mixing things up or is it a specific protocol?

Couple of reasons:
- never done it before, nice to mix things up. Always religiously stuck to 10s before.
- got to the point where I was maxing out both a) the amount of weight I had, and b) how comfortably I could suspend it from myself; adding 40kg doesn't feel great for shoulders so want to limit how much I do it, plus want fingers to be the limiting factor which feels more likely with a longer duration hang.
- as Shark posted, interesting views from Tyler Nelson on "density hangs".
- on the smaller edge one of my fingers is slightly tweaky on a really high load, short duration hang, but doesn't feel as bad doing longer hangs.
- given not climbing atm feel like intuitively need to try to compensate for lost time under tension (might be nonsense)

I have a vague memory of salt beef raving about these a while ago...

Then again, back to the drawing board now you've said that ;)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: jwi on March 25, 2020, 05:46:58 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

40 s hang could be as good variation as any. At least they are not much more unrealistic than a 7:3 s work ratio.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Will Hunt on March 25, 2020, 05:59:54 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: TobyD on March 25, 2020, 06:30:52 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.

Until you were actually stuck there and just wanted to do all the 8cs that is. The grass is always greener...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Rob F on March 25, 2020, 06:52:09 pm
Word on the grapevine is that Shark zooming in on 25 one armers including a 1 arm throw to the horn for the next few weeks...

Btw get well soon :-) :-) :-)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Pricey on March 26, 2020, 07:57:00 am
Thanks both.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2020, 01:23:48 pm
Got a tree in the communal back yard that will take some rings or TRX etc... but everywhere seems to be sold out. I have however seen quite cheap a trapeze swing and rope ladder set. I figured this could make quite a good wobbly pull up bar and - campus up the rope ladder set up. Does this sound stupid/desperate? (My home setup at the moment is just a BM1k and a theraband assist system(tm).
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 26, 2020, 01:50:34 pm
https://rockrun.com/collections/fingerboards/products/metolius-portable-power-grips

These still available on rockrun.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nai on March 26, 2020, 02:12:03 pm
How about buy some ratchet straps, as supplied with rings, and fashion a handle out of something, piece of old climbing rope/cord threaded through a piece hose pipe or something like?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on March 26, 2020, 02:31:28 pm
Or just use a bit of old climbing rope as a makeshift TRX?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2020, 02:47:59 pm
Or just use a bit of old climbing rope as a makeshift TRX?

Not got any.. handles are a problem too.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2020, 02:55:33 pm
Was about to say, lol at TT owning a rope.

We've just set up a multigym in the garden using a length of old static, a couple of slings, a karabiner and pulley and a stack of bricks. Works surprisingly well.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on March 26, 2020, 03:13:24 pm
Was about to say, lol at TT owning a rope.

But how do you work / clean highball boul........oh. Nevermind.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2020, 03:19:44 pm
:D
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: HarryBD on March 26, 2020, 03:45:17 pm
Am I a cock if I order the parts for a woody? Obviously non-essential but I'm not sure it adds any risk of virus to anyone along the line?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2020, 04:23:01 pm
You're stimulating the economy at least.

AFAIK hardware stores are still going, just not sure if any of the hold makers will still be contactable?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: JamieG on March 26, 2020, 04:27:27 pm
Am I a cock if I order the parts for a woody? Obviously non-essential but I'm not sure it adds any risk of virus to anyone along the line?

Just be aware that the delivery times from most builders merchants seem to be really long at the moment. I ordered a bunch of wood before the lock down and it is only due to be delivered at the end of next week. Might be a wait.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on March 26, 2020, 04:34:56 pm
Also, B&Q only doing "essentials" e.g. plumbing, some building stuff, electrical.. Don't know whether you'll get ply or not.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Will Hunt on March 26, 2020, 04:49:09 pm
Lots of retailers are still operational because they trade online, or are exempt, and they can travel to work because it cannot be done from home. Personally, I don't think the lockdown has gone far enough, but what do I know? Hopefully someone in government has sat down with a pencil and worked out how far we can go now without causing more deaths by putting us in a situation of mass poverty. So if it's still open then why not give them some business, I guess?
It'll be tricky because delivery times will be ages. Even if you get the wood, it'll be a PITA getting fixings and things by mail. Whenever I do DIY I invariably end up making repeated small trips to B&Q as I forget something or get the wrong size etc.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: sdm on March 26, 2020, 05:12:16 pm
You're stimulating the economy at least.

AFAIK hardware stores are still going, just not sure if any of the hold makers will still be contactable?

Things may obviously change rapidly but at the moment, I understand Beastmaker, Hardwood Holds and Silly Goat are all still operational and shipping.

No idea on other manufacturers.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Sasquatch on March 26, 2020, 05:15:47 pm
Got a tree in the communal back yard that will take some rings or TRX etc... but everywhere seems to be sold out. I have however seen quite cheap a trapeze swing and rope ladder set. I figured this could make quite a good wobbly pull up bar and - campus up the rope ladder set up. Does this sound stupid/desperate? (My home setup at the moment is just a BM1k and a theraband assist system(tm).

A bit of strap with a cam lock buckle and some PVC.  I think you can order PVC to be delivered as well.  I prefer 3cm pvc. 
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: ianabbot on March 26, 2020, 06:13:32 pm
I ordered ply, timber and screws before lockdown. Ply etc. was due for delivery yesterday, but the timber yard in Inverness then closed on TuesdayÖ Screwfix delivery arrived though, so I now have 600 screws, and all I need is some ply. If Alanis Morissette was a boulderer, she could write a song about that.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: HarryBD on March 26, 2020, 09:47:03 pm
Thanks guys, Iím still undecided. I donít want to take the mick. L not completely on board with the idea yet and donít want to piss her off while weíre locked up together. Iíve probably got enough to work on with my pull-up bar and fingerboard (plus the kitchen - 15kg heavier than when I raced bikes at uni)

That made me laugh Ian.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: gme on March 26, 2020, 10:57:09 pm
A lot of builders merchants still doing click and collect if you have a van or roof rack.
If this looks like going on for more than a few weeks, which it does, I will be building my first board in years.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: MischaHY on March 27, 2020, 08:54:31 am
On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying!

Yeah, for me it resolved mostly after doing more one arm/offset work on a bar. Once the shoulders got more stable the rotation stopped.

A good way to build into it (aside from the pull up training) is to engage the hang, then use a single finger on the other hand to push yourself back into position. i.e. you hang on one arm and start to rotate. Gently tap the doorframe or whatever with the other hand to counter the motion. This bumps you back into starting position for a second, then you start to rotate again. Push, pause, push. It's good because it keeps the high load on the shoulder and provides the absolute minimum of assistance. You'll progressively need to tap less and less and eventually you won't be rotating anymore. The key is to push briefly but hard enough that you rotate back and don't stay in contact with the thing you're pushing against.

Hope this helps!

Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on March 27, 2020, 09:26:44 am
Thanks Mischa
Just started training one arm hangs - and at the moment trying them with weight assistance a bit more than I need - in order to get my form and the anti rotate working better. Then reduce the weight assistance etc.

Well. Thatís the plan!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: MischaHY on March 27, 2020, 10:07:21 am
Pre-Corona I did a Lattice assessment which concluded like this:

Marker                        Your Score                    Expected Score (Goal Grade)                      Training Priority

Finger Strength        207.8%bw                                 161.9%bw                                                      Low

Power Endurance        207.0 secs                                 140 secs (avg.)                                              Low

Work Capacity                258.1 bw secs                         167.8 bw secs                                              Low

Pull Ups                        23                                          20                                                              Low

Push:Pull Ratio        0.9:1                                          2:1                                                              High

Flexibility + Mobility                                                                                                                    Medium

Core + Stability                                                                                                                    Very High


With this in mind I'm using the time to get a big block of focused strength and conditioning work done (something I've been stupidly lazy with previously) with the hope of addressing the weak links of core and push strength and hopefully doing some hardish things later in the year in Frankenjura when Germany calms down a bit.

This is my core session - it's quite high volume because I've got time for a longer session and I also seem to respond far better to higher volume sessions that start with more intense exercises and then taper the intensity down steadily as the session progresses.

Core

Leg raises. 10 reps, 3 sets. 2 minutes rest between sets.
Hanging L-sits. 5 12 second reps with 30 seconds rest between reps.
Twisting Crunch. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Weighted Crunch. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Dish Tuck. 30 reps, 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
Front Swim. 30 reps, 3 sets 1 minute rest between sets.
Isometric Front Hold. 5 30 second reps, 1 minute rest between sets.
Knee Stand. 30 reps. 3 sets. 1 minute rest between sets.
If any exercise becomes too easy, add weight to the ankles or hands to increase
intensity.


I'm currently adding 3KG to the leg raises and L-Sits which is a good level of hard. I've always been pretty crap at steeper things so hopefully this will sort it out.

Also have a push strength session that looks like this:

Push

ē 5x10 point Press Ups. Count to 10 at each point of the press up. Once you reach the
10th, make 15 small presses. Rest 1 minute between reps.
ē Rings Dips. 15 reps x 3 sets. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
ē 3x10 Diamond Press Ups. Rest 1 minute between sets.


This one is lower volume than the core session because it absolutely batters me. By the end I'm knackered and then sore for two days after. Weakness! Seeing good progression so far though. The 10-point press is still a way off from completing the full volume which seems good as there's plenty of room for progression.

Also built a sort of horizontal board thing from campus rungs on the beams outside - with feet on smearing on the wood it's actually very much like real roof climbing. I'm adding some crimps and footholds from hardwood holds to make it a bit more diverse so hopefully will get some good sessions in on this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-AKv16qSSO/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/B-AKv16qSSO/)

The only other thing I wanted to do was work out a way to train kneebars more specifically as it's something I'm extra crap at, so still thinking about that one. Any thoughts? Haven't got room for building any crazy machines unfortunately. Was thinking about tipping the kitchen table against the door then standing on the edge with my feet and knee(s) behind the pull up bar. Will have to have a play about...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: GazM on March 27, 2020, 10:30:50 am
Had a brief session on the project last night after the family went to bed. Cant do the start or finish but can do the middle...
https://youtu.be/zSIZdNjcjtE
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: jwi on March 27, 2020, 01:09:07 pm
Variation of load is not just a good idea, it is the law. Every training plan needs variation, unless the plan is to get up on a plateau and stay there forever.

If that plateau is 8B+ then that sounds pretty good to me.

Why? 9A has been done by climbers who kept on improving instead.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Pricey on March 27, 2020, 01:13:19 pm
On Abarroís point about rotation in one arm hangs- has anybody managed to stop this happening through any specific training? Itís really quite annoying!

Yeah, for me it resolved mostly after doing more one arm/offset work on a bar. Once the shoulders got more stable the rotation stopped.

A good way to build into it (aside from the pull up training) is to engage the hang, then use a single finger on the other hand to push yourself back into position. i.e. you hang on one arm and start to rotate. Gently tap the doorframe or whatever with the other hand to counter the motion. This bumps you back into starting position for a second, then you start to rotate again. Push, pause, push. It's good because it keeps the high load on the shoulder and provides the absolute minimum of assistance. You'll progressively need to tap less and less and eventually you won't be rotating anymore. The key is to push briefly but hard enough that you rotate back and don't stay in contact with the thing you're pushing against.

Hope this helps!

Thanks, I often rest a finger on the doorframe but Iíll try the push off, sounds good!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 29, 2020, 09:10:45 pm
easy punter laps

https://vimeo.com/401964776
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: nai on March 29, 2020, 09:16:46 pm
#climbfastest
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on March 29, 2020, 09:40:44 pm
Loving the clogs
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 29, 2020, 10:38:16 pm
Loving the clogs
Rigid cycling shoes and a 4cm rail to stand on is the only way I can keep active without making arthritic joints worse sometimes

Edit - you meant the real clogs! Good holds when bolted on
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: mark on March 29, 2020, 11:02:01 pm
easy punter laps

https://vimeo.com/401964776

What on Earth would someone who didn't know much about climbing make of that? The clogs are excellent.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Dolly on March 29, 2020, 11:48:57 pm
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 30, 2020, 05:43:26 am
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀

Get ready for some Leeroy Thornhill style eliminates
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on March 30, 2020, 08:11:31 am
Itís utterly brilliant
You also know that when we go outside again heíll have been practising something to hassle you to screams of desperation 😀

Those were towards the end. Those big moves up from the low/sit start... thatís got hustle written all over it.

Itís a bit like a serial killer sending the detective letters with obscure clues - we have to deduce the problem and the hustle from the sped up training video...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 30, 2020, 09:36:26 am
They've taken the bait...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 31, 2020, 10:46:32 pm
Next instalment of The Lager Diaries

tried to give the clogs more prominence

thin skin due to three days on the board, so I resorted to chalking up near the end of the session

just doing what feels good, no real plan, no secret code hidden in the shapes, nothing to hear in the soundtrack

https://vimeo.com/402727068
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2020, 09:24:31 am
I've got some turned wooden feet off an old sofa that will be first to go on my home woody.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: sdm on April 01, 2020, 10:32:10 am
In addition to the hundreds of pounds of beautifully sculpted wooden holds from Beastmaker, Hardwood Holds and Silly Goat, and some Bleaustone resin holds, some of my favourite homemade holds on my board include:
- A bannister rail converted in to a tactile sloper, with an undercut on the other side
- 2 draw sliders turned in to heinous crimp rails
- Jenga Extreme blocks turned in to nice basic crimps
- A stick from the park that became a beautiful narrow pinch
- a 4mm slightly rounded wooden business card. When I am strong enough to do a move off that hold, I will have completed climbing

When you've got a sander, no spare piece of wood is safe from ending up on the board.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: mark on April 01, 2020, 10:36:20 am
I added this to my board recently. The piece of hardwood had been sitting on my desk for ages. I decided there was a face in it, got whittling, and The Board Moai was revealed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49714024712_2b35614168_w.jpg)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Will Hunt on April 01, 2020, 11:13:27 am
Next time I go down to the garage I think I need to take a marker pen and start naming holds. H10 to I5 to D3 just isn't cutting it any more. That shrunken head is brilliant!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Muesli on April 01, 2020, 11:25:54 am


When you've got a sander, no spare piece of wood is safe from ending up on the board.


Amen
(https://i.ibb.co/6g4d4fF/20180204-132537.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TmHCHFt)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on April 01, 2020, 01:10:05 pm
That shrunken head is brilliant!


If it were bigger you could get a good undercling using the nostrils 😃
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: ashtond6 on April 01, 2020, 11:02:47 pm
Build a board and get good at hoard climbing   :)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: mark20 on April 02, 2020, 10:21:27 am
get good at hoard climbing   :)
Ive got pretty good at climbing over my hoard of bog rolls every time I go to into the bathroom ;)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on April 09, 2020, 03:05:48 pm
All dependent on receiving delivery of pull-up bar and beastmaker (as well as my ability to install):

1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. BW hang on the small BM 2K edges (14mm I think)
3. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
4. Front lever (will require the most work)

If too easy, will add more. Also need to not re-injure...
1, 3, 4 are quite lofty goals whereas 2 was achieved v easily

New goals:
1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
3. Front lever (will require the most work)
4. Hang 8mm micros BW 10 seconds

Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: jwi on April 09, 2020, 03:21:29 pm

New goals:
1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
3. Front lever (will require the most work)
4. Hang 8mm micros BW 10 seconds

It boggles my mind that anyone can be close to a one-arm (impressive demonstration of strong latissimus and ok shoulder girdle) without being able to hold a front lever for 2 seconds (demonstration of medium strong latissimus dorsi)?

I'm trying to sketch force vectors to try to understand how this could happen.

Does you and others who are strong on pulls but weak on front-levers display enormously strong biceps and brachs that help with the pulling??
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on April 09, 2020, 03:37:51 pm

New goals:
1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
3. Front lever (will require the most work)
4. Hang 8mm micros BW 10 seconds

It boggles my mind that anyone can be close to a one-arm (impressive demonstration of strong latissimus and ok shoulder girdle) without being able to hold a front lever for 2 seconds (demonstration of medium strong latissimus dorsi)?

I'm trying to sketch force vectors to try to understand how this could happen.

Does you and others who are strong on pulls but weak on front-levers display enormously strong biceps and brachs that help with the pulling??
Hmm that's interesting. Maybe it's a case of not knowing how to properly engage the required muscles. I've generally been able to do a one-armer (not at the moment) but my best front lever has been c. 1 second...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2020, 03:44:59 pm
I was more amazed that he could do a one armer but not hang the 14mm bm2k edges, though it's obviously less connected than one armer/front lever, it's very odd in a climber, so I'm glad you've fixed that coops!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Will Hunt on April 09, 2020, 03:48:30 pm
I was more amazed that he could do a one armer but not hang the 14mm bm2k edges, though it's obviously less connected than one armer/front lever, it's very odd in a climber, so I'm glad you've fixed that coops!

I was thinking this. I'm assuming that the 14mm edges are the bottom outside edges? Surely Coops is strong enough to hang them with ease at bodyweight?!

On that note, does anybody have a diagram which shows how deep each respective slot is? I mean, I could measure it but the T square is all the way down in the garage...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: dunnyg on April 09, 2020, 03:56:25 pm
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/cek236/beastmaker_1000_and_2000_edgehold_sizes/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/cek236/beastmaker_1000_and_2000_edgehold_sizes/)

You can send my cookies in the post
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2020, 04:15:57 pm
Think there's a similar one for the bm2k somewhere but I can't find it atm, so just measured the important ones:
Outside bottom edges 14mm
Outside upper edges 33mm
Middle bottom edge 23mm

All inclusive of radius

The lattis rung is 20mm
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on April 09, 2020, 04:19:52 pm
Yeah bodyweight 14mm was v easy, one-armer far off right now. I had easy finger aims as I'm slowly starting to load them again after finger injury last May and c. 5 months off climbing over winter. If someone can tell me what I should be doing for front lever other than pull hard and hold, I'm all ears - give me your magic micro-beta!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: dunnyg on April 09, 2020, 04:23:27 pm
The 2k is on the same page, you just have to scroll down a bit
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2020, 04:26:43 pm
If someone can tell me what I should be doing for front lever other than pull hard and hold, I'm all ears - give me your magic micro-beta!
Me too. Currently I've got one leg tucked right to my chest, the other extended and just hold that for 10s or so. Doing 10 reps (alternating legs) with a minute or two rest. Feels hard on pecs and lats. Trying to progress by slowly untucking the other leg but can only go a few inches atm without my arse starting to drop!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: robertostallioni on April 09, 2020, 04:34:33 pm
you're doing well to type
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2020, 04:36:43 pm
The 2k is on the same page, you just have to scroll down a bit
The middle rung on mine is def not 21mm. Weird that otherwise I pretty much get the same.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2020, 04:38:28 pm
you're doing well to type
Ha!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Mugabe251 on April 09, 2020, 04:39:11 pm
My friend who is very strong at front levers swears by doing 'negatives'. This meaning that you start by rotating yourself up to a tucked position at around 170/180 degrees, at which point you straighten your legs and lower as slowly as possible into the front lever, whilst making sure not to 'pike'. His words were that it builds the proprioception for the movement itself whilst building up the absolute strength required in the lats and shoulders. He never bothered with the traditional progressions either (e.g. 1 leg, tucked, advance tuck, etc...).

Hope that helps, Coops.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on April 09, 2020, 04:43:54 pm
Cheers, will take a look. Height of ceilings and doorframe may limit the angle I can get up to though...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: GazM on April 11, 2020, 04:04:31 pm
Progress report:

I had a session trying The Lockdown Project on the board today and have now finally done all the moves. The full link still feels a way off but fortunately it looks like I've still got plenty of time.

Hope everyone else is getting stuck into their projects!
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: sdm on April 11, 2020, 06:00:46 pm
Progress report:

I had a session trying The Lockdown Project on the board today and have now finally done all the moves. The full link still feels a way off but fortunately it looks like I've still got plenty of time.

Hope everyone else is getting stuck into their projects!

I'm on day 26 of my lockdown (I had to start a bit before most), I set 3 lockdown projects.

I thought #1 (twisty crimpy one) was going to be the hardest but new foot beta unlocked the crux move and I finished it off 2 sessions later on day 16.

I've got 2 moves that I haven't done yet on each of #2 (basic front on crimps) and #3 (slopers).

I set project #4 this week. I haven't been able to hold the holds for the second move yet, let alone move in to them. If I'm going to complete this one before the lockdown ends, we are going to have to be in it for the long haul.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Coops_13 on April 13, 2020, 03:31:19 pm
1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. 6min 100 pull-up challenge (think I did 6:30 back in the day no idea what is good)
3. Front lever (will require the most work)
4. Hang 8mm micros BW 10 seconds
Adjusted goals again since doing first one-arm max hang session of lockdown:
1. one-arm pull-up (haven't tried since injury)
2. one-arm hang 7s with <= 10% BW removed (BM2K bottom middle hold)
3. Front lever (would be happy with 5 seconds)
4. Hang 8mm micros BW 10 seconds
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 13, 2020, 07:01:35 pm
So my lockdown goals were as follows.

50kg on the lattice finger test
20mm lattice rung, strict half crimp.
3rd week in and up to 48kg.
(Started at 41kg before lockdown)

And

One arm hang beastmaker bottom middle slot.
So far slight band assistance.

Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2020, 09:36:06 pm
Who are the band and what are they playing to help you?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 13, 2020, 10:09:22 pm
Who are the band and what are they playing to help you?

😂
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: GazM on April 15, 2020, 03:47:03 pm
4th session trying The Lockdown Project. Getting closer.
https://youtu.be/uC-2bJZtiG8
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Duma on April 15, 2020, 04:13:24 pm
That's really close!

I've got a new one :
10 moves using only the bottom row on the bm2k and the 20mm lattice rung (which is the other side of the doorway)

Found doing moves on the fb so much less boring and more motivating than hangs.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: monkoffunk on April 15, 2020, 07:28:38 pm
That's really close!

I've got a new one :
10 moves using only the bottom row on the bm2k and the 20mm lattice rung (which is the other side of the doorway)

Found doing moves on the fb so much less boring and more motivating than hangs.

Iíve started doing little foot on problems on the beastmaker. Much more fun than I was expecting (relatively speaking).
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2020, 07:44:41 pm
That's really close!

I've got a new one :
10 moves using only the bottom row on the bm2k and the 20mm lattice rung (which is the other side of the doorway)

Found doing moves on the fb so much less boring and more motivating than hangs.

Iíve started doing little foot on problems on the beastmaker. Much more fun than I was expecting (relatively speaking).

Before constructing the board.. I was using a 15kg assist of therabands(5) hanging from the BM to a footloop - this allowed you to bounce between moves a bit. Which was quite fun - and made it alot more pleasant to warm up in particular...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on April 15, 2020, 07:46:59 pm
Huh, I really struggle to motivate myself for that kind of stuff and find it much easier to be motivated for a basic fingerboard session
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: moose on April 15, 2020, 08:10:48 pm
Huh, I really struggle to motivate myself for that kind of stuff and find it much easier to be motivated for a basic fingerboard session

I have always found the motivation for max hang sessions easy to come by, as they are pretty short, any suffering is brief, and I trust the process to yield results.  I haven't been able to use my woodie during this lockdown, so I've started supplementing max hangs with repeaters sessions on my Beastermaker using their app.  Crikey, the motivation to start those sessions is hard to muster!  I find them so gruelling I always want to give up midway through the first set (back two: nooooo!!!!).  Weirdly though, after a certain point the suffering becomes oddly compelling, and I always make it though my three set routine.  I think I must have masochistic tendencies (either that or I'm addicted to the very slight progress I am making)
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: abarro81 on April 15, 2020, 10:27:38 pm
I find repeaters the easier to be psyched for because you get to dig in hard and fight..
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: gme on April 16, 2020, 08:41:07 am
I am trying repeaters on the BM rather than max hangs and enjoying them as the session is a lot longer.
Trying to complete the 6C session on the BM app which feels hard.

The biggest issue I have is with my skin on the two finger stuff. That takes some motivation.

I have found I recover from these quicker than max hangs though. Session feels harder but fingers fine the next day.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: shark on April 16, 2020, 10:20:10 am
I am trying repeaters on the BM rather than max hangs and enjoying them as the session is a lot longer.

The main thing is that your enjoying yourself...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: gme on April 16, 2020, 10:27:34 am
Does that mean I am the best climber.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2020, 10:28:32 am
only if you are having the most fun.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Nibile on April 16, 2020, 10:49:46 am
4th session trying The Lockdown Project. Getting closer.
https://youtu.be/uC-2bJZtiG8
Are you kidding, four sessions and you nearly did it?
My last board project took me four years...
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: GazM on April 30, 2020, 10:43:36 am
Sorry to disappoint Nibs, clearly too easy. The Lockdown Project went down last night.

https://youtu.be/BD6e-vReQSg

Time to make a new (harder) one.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on April 30, 2020, 01:50:29 pm
Good effort, well done. Clearly not hard enough though  :boxing:
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: Bradders on May 13, 2020, 05:59:04 pm
- 20s +25kg half crimp hang on the small edges (+16kg feels fairly maximal atm, never done any more than 10s hangs before)
- 10s +40kg hang on a 19mm edge (just the larger slot with a peg stuffed in the back - would equal my PB from last Autumn)
- 10s +25kg middle finger mono pick up (+15kg feels okay atm, easing into it slowly)]
- 10s one arm hang the big middle slot (my arms are piss weak)

- 10s one arm lock off on the pull up bar (see above)

Ticked off these this morning. Especially pleased with the mono pick ups; coming along nicely.

Managed 15s on the top one the other day so not far off. Was third day on as well so reckon would be okay if fresh. Half a tick.

How's everyone else doing? All going out of the window with lockdown easing?
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: tomtom on May 15, 2020, 05:22:18 pm
Wrong thread. Soz
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2020, 12:38:40 pm
My lockdown project went on Friday. 12 moves on Bleaustone crimps. No video, but about 15 attempts, usually dropping last move if I manage to get through the grim 6th one. Next is to do it using crappy screw-ons for feet. I have 2 days.
Title: Re: The Lockdown Project
Post by: sherlock on May 26, 2020, 03:06:56 pm
 :2thumbsup:
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