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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: andy popp on May 28, 2019, 01:08:40 am

Title: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 28, 2019, 01:08:40 am
Steve McClure climbed the headwall project at Nesscliffe today, extensively tried by Nick, Ed Booth, others and most notably, Caff. E10/8c apparently.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: ferret on May 28, 2019, 04:02:05 am
That's a very understated headline for the FA of one of the Uk's hardest trad routes, I suggest you never get a job as a clickbait headline writer. McClure what a consistent wad!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: cheque on May 28, 2019, 09:02:30 am
I suggest you never get a job as a clickbait headline writer.

Britain’s most dangerous climb? Rock superman DESTROYS other climbers with this one weird trick. What he did at 8m will AMAZE you!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2019, 10:44:28 am
Fantastic stuff.

For those who might have missed it:

https://www.facebook.com/dmmclimbing/videos/2306874796191937

One of the most inspiring things I've seen recently.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 28, 2019, 11:29:36 am
Asked Steve how it went

Quote
was super close on lead, looked even closer than Caff's fall from the top except somehow I managed to stay on. Think I was more scared than him. He's used to falls like that. Whereas I'm just a boring sport climber.

Pics and full write by Keith Sharples to follow
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: teestub on May 28, 2019, 11:34:47 am
For those who might have missed it:
https://www.facebook.com/dmmclimbing/videos/2306874796191937
One of the most inspiring things I've seen recently.

I’m curious as to what you find inspiring, is it the commitment above rubbish gear?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2019, 12:46:49 pm
Mostly that, plus having confidence in the good lower gear despite being miles above it, plus a large chunk of it being Nesscliffe in general.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 28, 2019, 01:13:12 pm
Asked Steve how it went

Quote
Whereas I'm just a boring sport climber.


Who’s flashed E8 and climbed E11 and other E9s -10.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: danm on May 28, 2019, 01:35:10 pm
Hmm. Caff's next new route name could be interesting after this.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 28, 2019, 01:41:42 pm
FWIW, those top runners are just bird beak things that I gather are only there to keep the rope from going behind your leg. They're not supposed to hold any real weight.

I think I saw some comments from Caff on Facebook asking that Steve leave this alone until he'd had a bit more time on it. A sarcastic comment about it being easier to parachute in once the holds and sequences are worked out as well. Can anyone find these? Will there be beef? Is there any shit to stir? What's the goss?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 28, 2019, 01:48:29 pm
I think I saw some comments from Caff on Facebook asking that Steve leave this alone until he'd had a bit more time on it. A sarcastic comment about it being easier to parachute in once the holds and sequences are worked out as well. Can anyone find these?

https://www.facebook.com/SteveMcClureClimber/photos/a.308196242676559/1360460144116825/?type=3&__xts__%5B0%5D=68.ARDIgpDZCEqVt75LaoOIePdT-9KiIhoZo0gLu6qDOMeXOLeOYFKZOwrCtMaFneFLHk6GwPq2KZb3T4C1jyR_dZ780Fz43LTo5ZVGyeRWYjpiVTrixx3QF0G0zufhGMUr7W6pFXCttzUiCQz5gQR1OVeXDCHXpBoHuIcQepo3LsIXTPRjKbyRRqsnmmtoWHoy8nn_yAkFB5ARLAVgyN7CkfpxqVzdcVhveDFskRCfyCxxNJpADXj7QGQurz7OP133_f9j7OKcQv74yatI_xADYQGo_iQbQ9261ylP_tMsNNKwNzAfsoRHXXQ143_5A5hFdGF0SEyGyvLvcCO8JMniM0RHzw&__tn__=-R


 :jab: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: petejh on May 28, 2019, 01:49:50 pm
Hmm. Caff's next new route name could be interesting after this.  :popcorn:

A lesson about not posting on social media attempts of new trad routes until he'd sealed the deal?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 28, 2019, 01:50:08 pm
I think I saw some comments from Caff on Facebook asking that Steve leave this alone until he'd had a bit more time on it. A sarcastic comment about it being easier to parachute in once the holds and sequences are worked out as well. Can anyone find these? Will there be beef? Is there any shit to stir? What's the goss?

It was an open project as Nick Dixon was encouraging Caff and Steve to get on it. Even so Steve got in touch with Caff to clear things and Caff texted something to the effect of that if he hadn't sent it by the end of the week (last week) then it was fair game as he was sick of trying it in crap conditions.

Sorry
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duma on May 28, 2019, 01:55:03 pm
https://www.facebook.com/SteveMcClureClimber/

Steve's posted re the route on FB

if you scroll down there's the comments you're talking about on an earlier post.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: danm on May 28, 2019, 01:59:22 pm
It might be an interesting name because Caff likes provocative route names, and this feels like another of those events in the fine tradition of the route that got away. Black Sunday for example, on Esk. Great little tale behind it.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 28, 2019, 02:07:02 pm
www.facebook.com/SteveMcClureClimber

Quote
The Nesscliffe Headwall project goes down. A fluke window of opportunity taken. I'd convinced myself it would be OK, running it way out there on the top wall. After all, the maths looks acceptable; gear at about 12m, potential fall from 18m. But on lead it was all just a little harder and that final stretch was horrifyingly close. Just about recovered today and got my heart back in the right place after it ended up in my mouth.
GreatNess Wall. E10 7a, or something like that, but total three star.
Thanks to Ed and Adam Booth for the catch and Nick Dixon for the inspiration.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: ferret on May 28, 2019, 05:10:11 pm
I suggest you never get a job as a clickbait headline writer.

Britain’s most dangerous climb? Rock superman DESTROYS other climbers with this one weird trick. What he did at 8m will AMAZE you!

You're hired!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 28, 2019, 06:08:12 pm
I think I saw some comments from Caff on Facebook asking that Steve leave this alone until he'd had a bit more time on it. A sarcastic comment about it being easier to parachute in once the holds and sequences are worked out as well. Can anyone find these? Will there be beef? Is there any shit to stir? What's the goss?

It was an open project as Nick Dixon was encouraging Caff and Steve to get on it. Even so Steve got in touch with Caff to clear things and Caff texted something to the effect of that if he hadn't sent it by the end of the week (last week) then it was fair game as he was sick of trying it in crap conditions.

Sorry

Very disappointing.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: tomtom on May 28, 2019, 09:35:12 pm
Excellent news. Good name.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 28, 2019, 10:57:37 pm
Good name.

Not least as the crag actually lies in the parish of Great Ness (not nearby Little Ness).
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 28, 2019, 11:19:17 pm
Keith's exhaustive write up  (https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/steve-mcclure-talks-about-his-first-ascent-of-the-nesscliffe-headwall-project.html?fbclid=IwAR2ZdR2BvRZFS08zvG1YnLUqG9vbG3tvo1NUOFk_g1QNWyvP_5iWxnfwJ3M)
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: cheque on May 29, 2019, 07:24:26 am
Not exhaustive enough to explain where on Nesscliffe it actually is though. Can anyone tell me which routes it’s between please?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: mark20 on May 29, 2019, 07:54:03 am
Direct finish to Bird Brain (which traverses rightwards into the top of Tombola). Good video of Nick Dixon on the top section here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0NLFikB0J2o
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 29, 2019, 08:14:25 am
Go for it cheque!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duma on May 29, 2019, 08:25:50 am
😂 😂
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on May 29, 2019, 09:04:55 am
Good stuff, glad Caff had willingly opened it up and there's no drama.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2019, 09:08:36 am
If you refer to my Twitter and Insta (social media plug) pic comments you will see a bit of beef.  :jab:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: cheque on May 29, 2019, 10:38:01 am
Go for it cheque!

 ;D Driving down now.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 29, 2019, 11:21:41 am
If you refer to my Twitter and Insta (social media plug) pic comments you will see a bit of beef.  :jab:

That’s going to have taken the shine off the ascent for Steve no doubt.

Given that Steve had cleared it with him it’s especially unwarranted.

Think he should apologise
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: jwi on May 29, 2019, 11:45:34 am
Never mind the feelings of ownership of projects, that's normal.

What I want to know, and having wanted to know for a long time, how come England's best climber is fifty years old?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: 36chambers on May 29, 2019, 11:58:40 am
Never mind the feelings of ownership of projects, that's normal.

What I want to know, and having wanted to know for a long time, how come England's best climber is fifty years old?

I'd love to see him try and keep up with the young bucks on a Rocklands trip.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2019, 12:03:56 pm
Never mind the feelings of ownership of projects, that's normal.

What I want to know, and having wanted to know for a long time, how come England's best climber is fifty years old?

Tenacity and an ‘engineers brain’.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 29, 2019, 12:11:37 pm
Are we sure this isn’t just some banter from Caff?

Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2019, 12:16:48 pm
If you refer to my Twitter and Insta (social media plug) pic comments you will see a bit of beef.  :jab:

That’s going to have taken the shine off the ascent for Steve no doubt.

Given that Steve had cleared it with him it’s especially unwarranted.

Think he should apologise

Surely everything that Caff writes on social media should be taken as tongue in cheek?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 29, 2019, 12:20:49 pm
I wouldn’t necessarily say everything but in this instance if he did indeed give Steve the go ahead then maybe he’s just bantering? I’d like to think it’s just a joke anyway.

Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on May 29, 2019, 02:23:29 pm
Never mind the feelings of ownership of projects, that's normal.

What I want to know, and having wanted to know for a long time, how come England's best climber is fifty years old?
Incredibly strong fingers and no body weight.

Not on twatter or instawank so dunno what's going on. Hope it's all peaceful.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Coops_13 on May 29, 2019, 03:35:54 pm
Looks like it's getting juicy...
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: cheque on May 29, 2019, 03:50:27 pm
Not on twatter or instawank so dunno what's going on. Hope it's all peaceful.

You don't need an account on either to read public posts.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2019, 03:56:11 pm
CONFIRMED BEEF!

Doylo has played a blinder here. He must be raking in the followers since his picture is hosting the spat.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: ferret on May 29, 2019, 03:59:20 pm
To be honest this wants splitting to a different thread about when is it ok to try a project somebody else is already trying and leave this thread to discuss the route and Steve's impressive accent
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: spidermonkey09 on May 29, 2019, 04:03:14 pm
Leaning towards Caff here but sounds like a good thread in the offing as its an interesting topic.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on May 29, 2019, 04:03:26 pm
A split would be good. I don't read twuntter nor instacrap except when people link me to pictures of cute cattos and doggos on the latter.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: 36chambers on May 29, 2019, 04:07:18 pm
To be honest this wants splitting to a different thread about when is it ok to try a project somebody else is already trying and leave this thread to discuss the route and Steve's impressive accent

Climbing history without any beef wouldn't be half as interesting
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2019, 04:20:12 pm
I can sympathise with both here. If it's a well known project that Nick has pointed both people at then it can hardly be a closed project. But if Caff has put in the work to unlock a sequence on tiny sandstone crimps, then that's worth something significant. But an idle browse of social media shows photos (@marc_langley) of him top roping the route with the holds chalked - which is plain daft. Maybe that's because Caff can just assume that nobody else good enough is interested or will stay away, or maybe it's because photographers can't keep their stuff back in this age of instant gratification. Why not release the photos once the deed is done? There will be lots of "well known projects" out there that are within the grasp of plenty of good climbers (anybody think Jim Pope couldn't have walked up this?) - it's creating a buzz around them that actually gets them done. Had there been media silence around this then I don't doubt that Caff would have got there first.

He's definitely right about the name though. Awful awful name for one of England's hardest trad routes.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: spidermonkey09 on May 29, 2019, 04:21:17 pm
Steve's impressive accent

Looking forward to McClure doing a risque stand up turn at the next BMC AGM where he impersonates various different nationalities.  :clap2:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 29, 2019, 04:37:39 pm
I can sympathise with both here. If it's a well known project that Nick has pointed both people at then it can hardly be a closed project.

You're right, it can't. But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored. Of course, people are free to do as they wish, but I've always believed such requests should be respected and honoured, at least for a reasonable period of time.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2019, 04:47:58 pm
I can sympathise with both here. If it's a well known project that Nick has pointed both people at then it can hardly be a closed project.

You're right, it can't. But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored. Of course, people are free to do as they wish, but I've always believed such requests should be respected and honoured, at least for a reasonable period of time.

Steve's side of the story is that he asked and Caff said something about "if its not done by the end of the week". I'm not sure if that was before dropping the finishing hold? I guess that getting that close could really renew the psyche for the route.
Maybe Caff didn't feel it was right to block access to someone else, but then there's no place to then go slagging when someone does step in.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: CrimpyMcCrimpface on May 29, 2019, 04:54:56 pm
Quote
But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored.

Mentioned in a reply https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx2SoJRjx4g/
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 29, 2019, 04:55:53 pm
I can sympathise with both here. If it's a well known project that Nick has pointed both people at then it can hardly be a closed project.

You're right, it can't. But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored. Of course, people are free to do as they wish, but I've always believed such requests should be respected and honoured, at least for a reasonable period of time.

Steve's side of the story is that he asked and Caff said something about "if its not done by the end of the week". I'm not sure if that was before dropping the finishing hold? I guess that getting that close could really renew the psyche for the route.
Maybe Caff didn't feel it was right to block access to someone else, but then there's no place to then go slagging when someone does step in.

Just to be clear, I'm not judging the ins and outs of these particular events - I'm in no position to. Rather, it was meant to be a general statement of principles. I know others think differently and that anything goes.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: danm on May 29, 2019, 05:06:16 pm
Yeah, at the end of the day, it's a real shame that two bona fide legends have fallen out, whatever the in's and out's of it all. I blame that shit Doyle but then again the copter pastiche was pretty hilarious.

I've just realised that by posting this, I have probably joined the ranks of the Cyberwankers, dammit.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2019, 05:13:16 pm
Quote
But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored.

Mentioned in a reply https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx2SoJRjx4g/

The Endarkenment. McClure can climb 'em, Caff can name 'em.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 29, 2019, 05:18:10 pm
Joined?? I thought you were part of their high command??

Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2019, 05:43:49 pm
Yeah, at the end of the day, it's a real shame that two bona fide legends have fallen out, whatever the in's and out's of it all. I blame that shit Doyle but then again the copter pastiche was pretty hilarious.

I've just realised that by posting this, I have probably joined the ranks of the Cyberwankers, dammit.

Can’t blame me pal when I posted the pic it had been reported that there was no bad blood and Caff wasn’t too miffed and had given the OK.  :P pic was just a bit of fun , and it’s all gone belly up since .
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2019, 05:45:25 pm
CONFIRMED BEEF!

Doylo has played a blinder here. He must be raking in the followers since his picture is hosting the spat.

I’ll get rid of them again next week by posting a few baby pics. 
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: danm on May 29, 2019, 05:51:33 pm
That makes it even funnier in a way - confluence of the spheres or something? Good work on the pic, funny as sin.

Dunc - the only high command I'm familiar with is asking for the sound system to be turned up  ;D
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 29, 2019, 06:42:06 pm
Quote
But Caff is claiming he specifically asked Steve to give him a little more time, a request that was ignored.

Mentioned in a reply https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx2SoJRjx4g/

Yes - Caff asked that Steve leave it for him till the end of the week which he did
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: tomtom on May 29, 2019, 07:08:05 pm
CONFIRMED BEEF!

Doylo has played a blinder here. He must be raking in the followers since his picture is hosting the spat.

I’ll get rid of them again next week by posting a few baby pics.

Dudno Monkey man montage please. With a couple of Gaskins In for good measure 👍😃
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Doylo on May 29, 2019, 07:16:25 pm
Just had a chat with Dave Thomas in my garage. Strange old  week....
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Steve R on May 29, 2019, 10:44:41 pm
for those of us not on instatwat, could someone post the link to photo in question please?
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 29, 2019, 10:51:08 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/ByAyftDD25x/
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 29, 2019, 10:54:56 pm
That's a very understated headline for the FA of one of the Uk's hardest trad routes,

The longer this goes on, the prouder I am of my thread title.

In reality, its all turning into a bit of a shame. But in another reality, its also probably nothing compared to the bitterness of some of the rivalries in the past.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Wood FT on May 29, 2019, 11:06:19 pm
Exactly. My housemate just read the Peak Rock extract about ‘Ninth Life’, with Jerry and Woodward.

“Moffat was so incensed that he pinched such a plumb line that he never spoke to him again”

Then there are Dawes’ accusations against Fawcett for chipping that Millstone Route (Scritto’s was it?)

In retrospect these actions and confrontations add flavour to the history of climbing. It just seems quite vulgar when it’s happening live online, rather than through word of mouth or magazines after the fact.

Barrows nicked a first ascent from me twice. He still doesn’t know what I did in retaliation...
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Steve R on May 29, 2019, 11:14:11 pm
thanks andy, fomo mitigated
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on May 30, 2019, 12:55:37 am
Someone should try and put online "No Big Cigar," the Crags article about the race for the first free ascent of Castellan. Literally espionage and car chases.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: ferret on May 30, 2019, 04:54:22 am
Quote
from Caff on Instagram: I've reread our comms Steve and I have been a twat. You were just being pushy and I thought I would have more time between work. I had put some fucking time and energy into that fucking route though

Maybe that puts the matter to bed.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on May 30, 2019, 07:49:04 am
Thanks ferret.

Caff contacted me. He is genuinely very upset but wants to put a line under this episode now to move on - but will no doubt be sore about for some time to come.

Please bear the above in mind and be sensitive re further posts. Thank you.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: tomtom on May 30, 2019, 07:55:33 am
I want to know how’s woodFT got his revenge on Barrows....

Did he not notice the taste? :)
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2019, 09:27:38 am
Pissed on his kneepad. Barrows thought it actually improved the smell.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2019, 09:31:18 am

I've just realised that by posting this, I have probably joined the ranks of the Cyberwankers, dammit.

Etiam Cybermasturbans, Semper Cybermasturbans
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 30, 2019, 09:57:33 am
Fair play to Caff, can imagine its gutting to have been so close but be pipped to the post even if he hadn’t been clear/pushy enough himself. But gracious of him nonetheless.

Hope he returns to do the 2nd ascent!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: cheque on May 30, 2019, 10:20:52 am
In retrospect these actions and confrontations add flavour to the history of climbing. It just seems quite vulgar when it’s happening live online, rather than through word of mouth or magazines after the fact.

Exactly, this is the sort of “controversy” “characters” “passion” “irreverence” etc. that are supposed to only have existed in the good old days.  ::)

Ironic that it’s kicked off on Instagram given that’s routinely cited as the reason for this sort of thing’s supposed death- climbing must be one of very few aspects of modern life that are considered to have been made less acrimonious by social media.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2019, 10:42:08 am
Fair play to Caff, can imagine its gutting to have been so close but be pipped to the post even if he hadn’t been clear/pushy enough himself. But gracious of him nonetheless.

Tough being a shortarse. SteMac just lanked it.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Nibile on May 30, 2019, 02:59:17 pm
Etiam Cybermasturbans, Semper Cybermasturbans
Sorry beast, it's semel/semper.
 :geek:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2019, 04:19:47 pm
Bow to your better knowledge. I did 2 lessons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIAdHEwiAy8
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Nibile on May 30, 2019, 04:25:36 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Moo on May 30, 2019, 10:21:45 pm
As Stubbs pointed out.

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-ambassador-e8-7a
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: jwi on May 31, 2019, 09:38:04 am
haha
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Bradders on May 31, 2019, 10:23:42 am
Haha so clearly a case of the pot calling the kettle black here.

Hope he returns to do the 2nd ascent!

This is it though; if he wants to do it (which he clearly does) he should go and get it done!!!

Easy to say when sat on the sidelines but at the end of the day it's a bit of rock against which you personally challenge yourself, not something anyone can claim any sort of ownership over or an activity within which you can ever reasonably compare yourself to others. It really doesn't matter if you're first, second or hundredth; if it's a challenge you enjoy then just get on it and stop worrying about everything else.

Disclaimer: I do not always practice what I preach here, and definitely haven't done so in the past! Trying to though...
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on May 31, 2019, 10:40:42 am
With that Ambassador thing, it does seem like Callum had given up or at least stopped trying it. Which, again, makes it quite a different situation.

Obviously nobody can stop anybody from trying anything but there can still be an honour code which is loosely followed out of respect for the efforts of others.

It sounds a bit like Caff, for all his lack of self-promotion, can't help but chat to his mates about his various projects. If word hadn't got out that he was trying that Milestone Buttress arete thing then Callum most likely wouldn't have regained interest in it. And Callum could hardly have expected such an obvious project to sit in plain sight attracting no interest for long.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Wil on May 31, 2019, 11:21:35 am
Obviously nobody can stop anybody from trying anything but there can still be an honour code which is loosely followed out of respect for the efforts of others.

If you've put the time in to clean and find and work out sequences (and maybe bolt) a project then fair enough. If it's a fairly obvious gap on a well known crag that several others have tried... I suspect Nick told everyone he saw at the crag about this line (I'm one of them) and was happy to give the beta for sequences and gear. I don't really see anything in this "honour" other than preserving someone else's ego.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2019, 11:39:03 am
With that Ambassador thing, it does seem like Callum had given up or at least stopped trying it. Which, again, makes it quite a different situation.

Obviously nobody can stop anybody from trying anything but there can still be an honour code which is loosely followed out of respect for the efforts of others.

It sounds a bit like Caff, for all his lack of self-promotion, can't help but chat to his mates about his various projects. If word hadn't got out that he was trying that Milestone Buttress arete thing then Callum most likely wouldn't have regained interest in it. And Callum could hardly have expected such an obvious project to sit in plain sight attracting no interest for long.

I think the key point is

Quote
Just before setting off for a lead go I received a txt off Calum saying it would be nice if I gave him a week to attempt it before trying it.

Which seems similar, intentionally or otherwise.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: petejh on May 31, 2019, 12:22:09 pm
Thanks Caff for the route-name inspiration you plonker  :lol:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30085.msg585411/topicseen.html#new
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: andy popp on June 07, 2019, 02:54:29 pm
Video now online:

https://www.facebook.com/SteveMcClureClimber/videos/2554079601282472/?v=2554079601282472
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Fiend on June 10, 2019, 11:59:31 am
From Caffbook:

Quote
"And I'm not into project ownership. But when you take a bad fall off the very top of a project and ask someone who hasn't been on it to let you polish it off and get ignored I see it as fairly shitty. And I see no difference between sport and trad projects when you've invested more money and evergy into doing a route than most sport projects, it certainly didn't appear anyone was trying it until I'd opened up the crux sequence, put wood hardener on the holds and got close on my 3rd visit before winter set in in 2017. Chodes"

Which seems to be different to:

From earlier in this thread:

Quote
It was an open project as Nick Dixon was encouraging Caff and Steve to get on it. Even so Steve got in touch with Caff to clear things and Caff texted something to the effect of that if he hadn't sent it by the end of the week (last week) then it was fair game as he was sick of trying it in crap conditions.

From Nick Dixon in Keith's article:

Quote
Caff started work on the project about 18 months ago and I could see he was way stronger than me on it. I have taken pleasure in this and whilst continuing to try it myself I have tried to support Caff in his ascent too. Caff and I had quite different sequences on it and he came really really close to a send about three weeks ago taking a massive lob. I spoke to Steve about the project about a year ago and I think Caff had spoken to him about it more recently encouraging him to have a go.


Was anyone else seriously trying for a lead before Caff?? (Sounds like Nick at least wasn't)
Was Steve trying it on lead before Caff's big attempt??
Was Caff's request to leave it for a week as exact and specific as that??

It isn't clear and without knowing the truth, it's hard to know what to feel, a pity as they're two extremely respect-worthy climbers.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on June 10, 2019, 12:06:59 pm
I still think there's a lot to be said for not posting videos of your project on social media. They create a buzz around it and bring it to the front of people's minds. And if the sequences are there, laid out for all to see, and it's clearly a safe fall, then you're just asking for Britain's pre-eminent sport climber to come along and nick it.

What was it that old timer said? "We didn't want to do these routes, we just wanted to nick 'em off other people".

Sorry, I'll stop being a cyber wanker now.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: shark on June 10, 2019, 12:33:40 pm
Sorry, I'll stop being a cyber wanker now.

I doubt it
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: Will Hunt on June 10, 2019, 12:35:16 pm
Sorry, I'll stop being a cyber wanker for now.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: teestub on June 10, 2019, 12:48:45 pm
I still think there's a lot to be said for not posting videos of your project on social media.

Or on the Daily Mail website!
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2019, 12:50:24 pm
Dark side of media spraying.
Title: Re: Nesscliffe doings
Post by: jwi on June 10, 2019, 12:50:47 pm
I still think there's a lot to be said for not posting videos of your project on social media.

Isn't that what professionals are asked to do for a living?