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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fultonius on December 06, 2017, 10:28:55 pm

Title: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 06, 2017, 10:28:55 pm
So.... Just had a week in El Chorro (where my instinct slippers were quite nice for grip and sensitivity, but were lacking a bit of stiffness on the smaller footholds).  To say I was untrained for the trip would be a lie, but I was far from en forme. Had a few bashes on Honk Down (7c) and tickled the crux hold on a couple of redpoints but couldn't quite hold it and got a 7b (un lait fraiche pour le monsieur) on encantadas in a few RPs.

I haven't climbed since Saturday and went to the wall today (GCC in Glasgow) and had a mighty shit session!  Basically: fell off a 7a, fell off a 7b/+, fell off another 7a, foughtt up a 6c I'd onsighted before the trip.  These routes are all short and punchy, 9-12m, whereas the routes in El Chorro were 30m+ but still.... going from nearly ticking a 7c to falling off grades I usually onsight in my sleep...what. the. fuck? 

Anyone suffered this oddity before?
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: TobyD on December 06, 2017, 11:34:34 pm

Anyone suffered this oddity before?

I always have a shit session first time after a trip, in or outside doesn't matter whether bouldering, sport or trad.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: macca7 on December 07, 2017, 10:01:27 am
Had almost excately what you describe after my last trip to Costa Blanca, had possibly my most successful trip ever ticking a 7b a day, which for me was unprecedented.

Got back to the wall, The Barn in Devon and struggled like hell on everything I had been cruising prior to the trip!

Conversely have just returned from a trip to Margalef and on my return have had two bouldering sessions at the Barn and have felt as strong as ever and Tuesday was perhaps my must successful session ever!

Tying in tonight so god only knows whats going to happen!

I previously presumed it must be a fitness over strength thing but this improvement in my bouldering after a routes trip has really thrown me!

Anyway, your not alone!
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 07, 2017, 10:09:56 am
I think it depends on the length and style of the routes on your trip compared to what you go back to. If you have got good at relaxing your way up long things then it can take a while to get that snap back (or at least it does me)

Though sometimes you can just be moving so well that you counter this.

I’m just getting some snap back for bouldering after a couple
Of months of being the worst I’ve been at bouldering for sometime, coming off the back of a very long routes season where I have felt on my best form ever for most of it.

Felt better on the boulders earlier in the year even up to September. But a trip to taghia seemed to kill any “pull hard” ability.

It will come back so don’t worry
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: bendavison on December 07, 2017, 10:17:28 am
It doesn't sound like you're that much worse than you were on the trip?

On trip: failed on 7c, did 7b in a few rp's
At wall: failed on 7b/+, fell off 7a (o/s attempt?), did 6c

I suspect any small difference between the two reflects that indoor routes are generally physically harder than outdoor equivalents, trips tend to be shit from a training perspective and that you had 4 days off before going to the wall. I doubt a week of route climbing actually made your PE worse.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 07, 2017, 10:28:45 am
I'm at a considerably lower level than most people here but currently having the same experience as Duncan: trained pretty much purely endurance from June onwards for a trip to Kalymnos at the end of October, and have entirely lost the ability to even attempt hard moves on boulder problems.

My static strength as measured on the fingerboard is still more or less up to par, but on my one venture onto the moonboard since I got back I was barely able to do single moves on things I was projecting & close to doing in the spring.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: IS2 on December 07, 2017, 11:21:15 am
I get this both ways .. always crap first few days of a trip and weak as a kitten with zero endurance on return. I have found it is much worse on flying trips as opposed to driving and attribute it mainly to sharing concentrated germs in airplanes. Most of my trips are 1-3 weeks so not much chance that the effect is “ detraining”. Other factors are: I climb several days on when on trips so rest less than when training, I also drink more alcohol and eat worse food all of which inhibits recovery. So hardly surprising I need a bit R n R after every trip..... and I am very old, which always multiplies recovery times. The grade explanation also applies, the routes on my local leading wall are wee bit tougher than most European venues. So choose a trip venue with nails grades ( e.g. Setti near Athens) and you will think you are much better at climbing when you get back.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: cheque on December 07, 2017, 11:24:59 am
It takes me ages to recover after trips. Also, paying attention to indoor grades is the path to madness.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: gurumed on December 07, 2017, 11:25:21 am
A lot of the routes at GCC were recently modified in an attempt to make them less shit.  Perhaps that's why you were finding them different?

Could also just be depression from being back in there after climbing at a lovely venue like El Chorro.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: jwi on December 07, 2017, 12:31:17 pm
Nothing makes me weaker for indoor climbing than climbing outdoors. It's almost as they are two different things.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 07, 2017, 12:58:06 pm
Interesting, thanks for all th responses.

Ben, while objectively it might seem that I'm not doing to bad, I just felt so "heavy" and my forearms went dead 2/3 of the way up, not really ballooning pump but just powered out.

I've never had this issue before, often come back from trips firing om all cylinders.

Just getting older I guess....
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Luke Owens on December 07, 2017, 03:49:07 pm
Probably just a style thing, I'm completely rubbish on indoor routes compared to outdoor. I've redpointed 7c outside yet I reckon if I tied in at the wall later I'd easily fail on 6c. I've never understood it to the point that I just don't tie on indoors anymore, any route training I do is on circuit boards or bouldering.

Like jwi said they're like two different things, to me they are completely different. How I'm fairing indoors has no baring on how well I'll climb outside.

Similar to what you've experienced I always power out indoors too, I put this down to having nowhere to hide on the routes, outdoors I can usually find some sort of rest or trickery to make it suit me. Indoors I find I just have to go for it.
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Fiend on December 15, 2017, 09:38:25 am
So you go away for the usual life-affirming week away, despite pas du forme whatever that bullshit means, winter sun, zero humidity, loads of route choices, power chorizo diet etc etc. Come back, wait until your body is either right in the middle of recovery mode and/or completely switched off climbing after 4 days off, have one session at a grotty grease-cave in the middle of a dank Glasgow winter at somewhere when you previously did well you were probably training there regularly and where they've probably changed the routes, and you're using that single session as a basis for "shit PE"??

Something is "ballooning" and "heavy" and I'll tell you for free it's probably between your ears  :spank:
Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 15, 2017, 09:46:12 am
 :lol:  nailed it fiendypoops.

Title: Re: Shit PE after a week of sport climbing??!!
Post by: Ian T on December 17, 2017, 10:25:12 pm
Is this not the same as going on a skiing holiday and finding on your return that your golf swing has turned to shit?