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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Andy F on June 04, 2017, 08:31:20 pm

Title: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Andy F on June 04, 2017, 08:31:20 pm
Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort  :2thumbsup: :clap2:
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Wood FT on June 04, 2017, 08:49:50 pm
Get in! Really happy for him
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: cowboyhat on June 04, 2017, 09:15:14 pm
Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort  :2thumbsup: :clap2:



Cryptic nonsense that Andy, doesn't deserve its own thread.

Steve Mclure? Malham?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Andy F on June 04, 2017, 09:41:41 pm
Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort  :2thumbsup: :clap2:



Cryptic nonsense that Andy, doesn't deserve its own thread.

Steve Mclure? Malham?

Yes and yes. Sorry for being cryptic,  :oops:
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Duma on June 04, 2017, 10:15:05 pm
BMC says 9b https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156124791175828&substory_index=0&id=381399730827

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Teaboy on June 04, 2017, 11:24:53 pm
Big weekend for climbing news!

It's incredible to think that Steve did his first 'hardest route in the country' nearly 20 years ago....and he wasn't even particularly young then.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: haydn jones on June 05, 2017, 12:14:53 am
 :strongbench: :strongbench: didn't come as much of a surprise considering he almost did it in less than ideal conditions the other day, knew it was just a matter of time.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Duma on June 05, 2017, 08:11:50 am
 :2thumbsup: :strongbench: :bow:

Come on Shark, details! we know you were there.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: dave on June 05, 2017, 08:35:48 am
For the benefit of those of us not part of the catwalk "chris says hi" glitterati can someone shed any light onto where this route goes?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Duma on June 05, 2017, 08:49:15 am
Rainshadow through crux (8c+) then new link (8c+) into finish of Bat Route.

I think.

Details of the easier start from a few years back: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: moose on June 05, 2017, 08:49:30 am
It's the "Easy Easy" referred to here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a)

Does Rainshadow past the crux, then rather than bearing slightly left, goes straight up via around 8c+ of "new" climbing to join the end of Batroute.  Batman was a consolation version - accessing the new climbing from Bat Route (which is to the right) rather than Rainshadow.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Duma on June 05, 2017, 08:50:54 am
Too slow moose!
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: remus on June 05, 2017, 08:56:15 am
Fucking A, this is well good.

It's been stressful just following his attempts on facebook, so cool to see him finish it off.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Ged on June 05, 2017, 10:10:35 am
Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort  :2thumbsup: :clap2:

UKB at it's cliquey worst!  Some of us mere mortals don't know who Steve is, or what the deed is. 

Well done though Steve, sounds like a cracking deed.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2017, 10:12:36 am
Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks.  Legend.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: 36chambers on June 05, 2017, 10:36:32 am
Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks.  Legend.

Oldest person to climb 9b?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Clart on June 05, 2017, 11:02:37 am
Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks.  Legend.

Oldest person to climb 9b?
Only Brit to climb 9b?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Will Hunt on June 05, 2017, 11:09:18 am
Let's let the downgrades roll in before we start handing out the medals  ;)
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: jwi on June 05, 2017, 11:12:07 am
Quote from: Clart
Only Brit to climb 9b?

The only climbers who have without a shadow of doubt done a 9b route are Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jacob Shubert, Alex Megos, Sachi Amma and Stephano Gisolfi. Possibly Ethan Pringle if Jumbo Love really is 9b.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2017, 11:15:32 am
He said it's a lot harder and took a lot longer than Overshadow which Ondra called hard 9a+.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: andy_e on June 05, 2017, 03:35:42 pm
According to Farcebook he's called it Rainman.

Quote from: Steel fingers
I'm just overwhelmed with the congratulations I've received. Thanks so much to all. When on a journey like this you are locked in, its yours, but to have so many people get in touch is truly amazing. Though each and every journey, regardless of the grade, is equal and just as important in every way to the individual, I'm glad I managed to share this epic. Though many people will push through a hard redpoint, not many will break the 100 day barrier!! And so what is it? Rainman, 9b. Phew, did I really say that??
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: shark on June 05, 2017, 04:55:15 pm
:2thumbsup: :strongbench: :bow:

Come on Shark, details! we know you were there.

 :ninja:

I've written up an account of the day for Alex which he says he's going to squeeze into Summit so I'm not going to give too much away but I was shitting myself
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: standard on June 05, 2017, 04:56:18 pm
an account or your day or steve's?  :tease:
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: shark on June 05, 2017, 05:01:11 pm
an account or your day or steve's?  :tease:

 ;D

Words from our BMC Ambassador himself: www.thebmc.co.uk/rainman-steve-mcclure-climbs-9b-malham

Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2017, 05:13:06 pm
9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: shark on June 05, 2017, 05:43:25 pm
9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.

I'll let you know  ;)
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2017, 05:44:57 pm
9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.

I'll let you know  ;)

That's the spirit!  :clap2: :lol:
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Will Hunt on June 05, 2017, 06:22:18 pm
According to Farcebook he's called it Rainman.

9b, 9b, definitely 9b, definitely 9b at Malham.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: moose on June 05, 2017, 08:56:25 pm
9b at Malham.... presumably at that level an ultimate limit for combining horrible undercuts with bad smears is being approached.... to get harder you would need to plug MC Escher's brain into a super-computer connected to a 3-D printer.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: T_B on June 06, 2017, 01:13:03 pm
Amazing laser focus and dedication.

Great interview here:

https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/steve-mcclure-s-rainman-f9b-the-hardest-sport-route-in-the-uk.html

Was it filmed does anyone know?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2017, 01:30:35 pm
Good interview

Quote
Iím scratching around to find belayers

He must have been - look what he ended up with.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: shark on June 06, 2017, 06:05:38 pm
Good interview

Quote
Iím scratching around to find belayers

He must have been - look what he ended up with.

 :) I know you're just jealous
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: bolehillbilly on June 06, 2017, 08:59:00 pm


Great interview here:

https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/steve-mcclure-s-rainman-f9b-the-hardest-sport-route-in-the-uk.html


Excellent, thanks for the link.  The final line is quality.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2017, 10:49:23 am
Good interview

Quote
Iím scratching around to find belayers

He must have been - look what he ended up with.

 :) I know you're just jealous

Big time actually. What an amazing thing to be part of. Hope he bought you a beer.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: standard on June 07, 2017, 01:42:48 pm
read about this last year, but now here's the footage:
https://vimeo.com/220541128
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Kingy on June 07, 2017, 05:34:32 pm
Bloody hell, unlucky! What are the chances!!?  :o
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: monkoffunk on June 07, 2017, 05:49:45 pm
Ha, ha awesome.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Duncan campbell on June 07, 2017, 09:43:11 pm
Is it just me or does when Steve hits the rock with both hands does he sort of resemble gollum from LOTR? Pretty sure gollum makes an alarmingly similar movement in one of th films...

Waddage effort on rainman also. Was rooting for him to do it!
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: MrTeale on June 08, 2017, 08:43:38 am
Anyone got the password for the video? It appear to have been made private.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2017, 08:56:25 am
yeah, can't see it either
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2017, 04:13:03 pm
Yes, yes, 9b and all... But the main question is: did he bother tying his shoelaces for this?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: dave on June 08, 2017, 05:18:58 pm
Yes, yes, 9b and all... But the main question is: did he bother tying his shoelaces for this?

Was going to ask him that last night actually but forgot. Chris says hi from Ceuse etc.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: petejh on June 08, 2017, 06:28:22 pm
Well, were his laces done up last night?
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: submaximal gains on June 08, 2017, 09:11:03 pm
He did his shoe laces up for it. If you scroll down on 8a.nu there's a thing on the latest Anasazi whites where he says did up the laces.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2017, 09:16:09 pm
Must be hard then.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: BID on June 14, 2017, 03:52:28 pm
From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):

"So nice to be back stress free! Despite it being wetter than in March. Up filming for BMCTV. And a go on Rainshadow (9a) between links for the camera on Rainman. Why not? First effort I fumbled the very last move, a tad rusty after 13 years away. Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."

 8)
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 14, 2017, 03:59:26 pm
From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):

Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."

 8)

Hardly surprising when the finish is 8a+ instead of 8c+.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: BID on June 14, 2017, 04:31:59 pm
From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):

Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."

 8)

Hardly surprising when the finish is 8a+ instead of 8c+.

I suppose so, but it pleased me. Little victories :)
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 14, 2017, 06:24:24 pm
126 day siege. That is seriously impressive. Can't imagine a siege of that magnitude .
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: petejh on June 14, 2017, 09:30:54 pm
Oh I think you can.. :-\
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Doylo on June 14, 2017, 09:44:07 pm
Oh I think you can.. :-\
Can't .
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: shark on April 18, 2018, 03:35:41 pm
BMC TV film now up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L01OUNJvd1E&t=11s
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: SA Chris on April 18, 2018, 05:28:45 pm
Taken longer to release than second stone roses album.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2018, 06:03:47 pm
Stone who?

That video is ace, really nicely done and good footage of the moves / holds.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: Wood FT on April 18, 2018, 06:36:53 pm
BMC TV film now up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L01OUNJvd1E&t=11s

Really enjoyed that, great climbing and one can't help but feel happy for Steve, what a gentleman.
Title: Re: Hardest route in the Country
Post by: pigeon on April 19, 2018, 08:46:53 am
Taken longer to release than second stone roses album.

Haha. Yes, it could seem that way

It was made last year, premiered at Kendal, and was then emailed to all BMC members to watch over Christmas.

Great short by Ben. Our brief was "make it like that Hubble film". Job done.