UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Bob40 on September 18, 2008, 03:51:10 pm
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dear doctors, I know there is lots of advice on this topic and i have read most of it. My problem is getting over the plateau of doing 1-4-6 fairly easily on small rungs, but being unable to do 1-4-7. Over the last few years i have had a few stabs at this without much success. Currently I do a kind of all in session;
1-3-6
1-4-6
1-2-5
1-3-5
R&L each set twice.
any advice appreciated, oh and I'm the wrong side of 40 years young.
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at what stage do you try to do 1-4-7? tho bear in mind that earlier this evening i had trouble doing 2-3
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I assume 2-3 on the board in question is a greater distance than the height of a Moon fingerboard. In which case, is it really that surprising?
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at what stage do you try to do 1-4-7? tho bear in mind that earlier this evening i had trouble doing 2-3
I would try about halfway into the session.
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Bit of a long session don't you think?
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IRT Paul: Long, really? That only works out as 8 on each arm. How little do you do when you're campussing?
Personally when I was stuck there I did lots of locked touches 1-3-4-3-4 (keeping one hand on rung 1 throughout, snatching other hand between 3 and 4) or even doing 1-3-5-3-5...
I found that this meant I was stronger on the top part of the movement which translated well to getting beyond rung six. Of more importance however, I think that being able to lock that low translates really well to real life.
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For that part not a lot, i'm assuming some warmup is done before the things that he listed.
Warmup - Laddering
- Laddering with bigger gaps
Max effort 3 sets each arm (if you can do 1-4-6 pull harder and TRY for 1-4-7, you'll get closer)
Touches 1-4-1 x 3 (alternate)
Touches 1-4-3 x 2 each arm
Done
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I've just started doing touches, but wasn't sure if this was the way forward, seems it is, cheers guys.
I been doing 1-4-1 with two touches on each arm. Can you explain what you mean by 1-4-3?
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http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=54 (http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=54)
voila!
Seriously though with regards to getting 1-4-7 I was the same, 1-4-6 was fine but I was nowhere near. I just started to pull a little past 6 each time and after a while it was nearing 7, then one day I hit 7.
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http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=54 (http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=54)
voila!
Seriously though with regards to getting 1-4-7 I was the same, 1-4-6 was fine but I was nowhere near. I just started to pull a little past 6 each time and after a while it was nearing 7, then one day I hit 7.
ah ok I get it!
The problem with pulling past six is i can make a throw and touch six and three quarters, but it starts to feel that it might become a way of getting injured. I have had bad elbows in the past. So this current phase I'm trying to do it all a bit slower and in a bit more control, which I know isn't quite the point of campusing, but there is probably a middle road there somewhere.
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I have found that it is essential to start trying 1-5-match and 1-5-6 etc if possible. That way when you try 1-4-7 you feel in a much stronger position than when you are trying 1-5-something.
It worked well for me, but i have very short limbs
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I assume 2-3 on the board in question is a greater distance than the height of a Moon fingerboard. In which case, is it really that surprising?
he's back everybody
good thinking that rodma. i also think that one hand on one and leading hand on two works well. personally i think touches are useless, ie it's just a lock-off. tho i do do them from time to time for my own and others amusement
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cheers everyone for the advice everyone. So some 1-4-3-4 touches and some max throws added to my session and some patience and we will see. 1-5 matches in principle i agree with and used to do but they seem to start to place an emphasis at least in my case on my shoulders, which can't take it!
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I assume 2-3 on the board in question is a greater distance than the height of a Moon fingerboard. In which case, is it really that surprising?
he's back everybody
good thinking that rodma. i also think that one hand on one and leading hand on two works well. personally i think touches are useless, ie it's just a lock-off. tho i do do them from time to time for my own and others amusement
...and also wear cardigans in womens size 8 it would seem ;)
I just want to see you do rings.
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Climbingworks campus board...
Right, so I can do 1-4-7 on the large rungs both arms.
1-Right 4-Left 7 quite steadily on the rungs nearest to the window on the none jugs side.
1-L4-R6 just, on the same rungs but can not even touch the seventh rung when attempting 1-4-7
and 1-3-5 seems easy on the smallest rungs (have not tried anything else or the incut rungs)
It feels like my left arm just wont pull its weight, but I can manage the 1-4-7 on the large rungs though not as steadily as on my right arm.
Do I keep working my left arm until it catches up? is it worthwhile forging onto 1-5-etc with my good arm?
I don't feel comfortable with this imbalance on a purely emotional level 8)
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I found that pulling 1-4-6-9 was the thing that helped me achieve 1-4-7 consistently. Once I started hitting this regularly 1-4-7 came pretty fast (something about the leading arm getting used to that last big pull- like what Dense is saying about starting staggered). I would start do simple ladders to warm up, then 1-4-6-9 on both sides for 3 sets, and then have 4 attmepts leading both arms at 1-4-7. Within 3 weeks of doing this twice a week I was hitting 1-4-7 pretty easily. The I'd just start to migrate the exercises over to the 1st joint rungs and repeat. Took a while longer on those but got to 1-4-7 in the end.