UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Tommy on August 15, 2008, 10:52:06 pm
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Oh yes, in the pursuit of pain I've been hunting out a few things at Wharncliffe and came up with a nice little steep offwidth boulder problem. I'm guessing it's not been done before as most poeple aren't that sick and twisted in their approach to climbing... ;D
Actually a pretty cool problem and something well worth looking out for as I don't know of much like it. 70 degrees overhanging, requiring butterfly jams and foot cams all the way to the end. There's a block out left at the end, which makes the finish easier, but would be very eliminate if you tried to leave it out, so I did it with the block in (provides a usefull handjam).
Stand start at the back and make your way to the top - pretty obvious! Beautifully painful and good quality moves. Thought it was about V5 (I'm not up for easy grades on cracks ;) ) and called it "Butterfly Crack."
Here are a couple of pics:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj160/tprclimbingphotos/IMG_1999.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj160/tprclimbingphotos/IMG_1997.jpg)
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Nicely done.
But, taping up? I mean, c'mon, man/mouse etc :lol:
I gotta say that that does not look like my bag at all!
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Nothing wrong with that when you've got a pair of ready made gloves always stuck in the bottom of your bag....!
I don't do it much, but thought they'd illustrate the butterfly jams better in this case... :-\ Besides, when you're climbing 6 or 7 days a week it's worth keeping your hands in good shape.
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No arguing with that!
I have an allergy to cracks, y'see. Bring me out in a (grit) rash.
Wouldn't it be better as a layback? :lol:
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Tom, looks like it would go in a 'Dire Straits/Springstein bandana' head jam style. I have no doubt you have one of those in the bottom of your bag.
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if this is the thing i think it is (almost underground level, right of the Hell gate area?) then its an old project of Mo Overgrade's.
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Alright Stallioni - just you wait until the 30th August.... You thought you were getting an 8a crimp fest to onsight - maybe they'll be a nice little offwidth waiting for you boys.... ;D
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if this is the thing i think it is (almost underground level, right of the Hell gate area?) then its an old project of Mo Overgrade's.
Hey, if it is.... at least it's not an overgrade?! ::) I'm sure Mo would have be able to do it though. Sounds like we might be talking about the same thing though as it is down and right of Hell Gate. I guess if anyone was mad enough to bother doing a repeat of it they could confirm the grade.