UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: stom on July 24, 2008, 09:08:01 am
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As I’m recovering from a bout of elbow tendonosis and have got a week off work next week I’m looking for some suggestions for quality gritstone routes in the E3-E5 range in the Sheffield area – preferably slabby in nature as it’ll save me destroying my elbows.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Tom
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i would have thought it'd be too hot/midgey for grit e5 slabs, as they tend to be thin and no gear but here goes:
great slab
downhill racer
hairless heart
heartless hare
artless
don't slip now
trickledown fairy
finger distance
el vino collapso
stopper
beautician
tempest
everything at rivelin quarry (think midge death)
pebble mill
LH line on millwheel wall
wall end slab direct
......
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4 pebble slab (froggat) - no elbows required
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Brush Off
Parallel Piped
Telli
The Snivelling
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Loads at Bamford
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Loads at Bamford
...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.
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...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.
Jet Runner? Wall/slab into an arete?
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Loads at Bamford
...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.
Nice sandbag
Smoked Salmon E7 7a (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=266) (may be listed differently in t'proper definitive guide though)
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poached, smoked, whatever.
I'd forgot about jetrunner (probably cos at the side of all the froggatt slabs it ain't great).
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Parallel Piped is more an arete that a slab, I'd have said. Also, it's not the best route- one awkward move from the break, done. Would suit the elbows though.
Since it's going to be hot you may be better off going for something like Very Far Skyline, albeit some things are likely overgraded and a bit squeezed in.
I'd second Pebble Mill, may be a bit shadier?
Isn't there something at Black Rocks?
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Burb South, life insurance for an easy E6? or how about snivilling E5 at Millstone. Tek your ski boots!
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(http://i34.tinypic.com/dg05l4.jpg)
.......is the word. Spend the week off sipping gin and tonics on the veranda while the elbows heal.
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Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives. Maybe this winter is the time to go and do Mild (which the tree got the way of). It will probably make BL more aesthetically pleasing as well, which is good as it's a fantastic route.
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Done all my hardest Grit routes and Problems in July's bizzarly.
If the weather is cold and windy enough and you choose your venue wisely then all but the hardest is do-able IMHO
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If the weather is cold and windy enough and you choose your venue wisely then all but the hardest is do-able IMHO
Possibly true but I was just considering the fact that yesterday evening it was still over 26 degrees and sweaty as fuck at half six. Not even lime weather, unless you were slicing it and putting it in your G&T. :)
Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives.
Oh no........
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Defo the G&T weather at the moment thats for sure.....with one eye on metcheck!!
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Thanks I think there's more there than is possible in a week especially as it so hot at the moment!
(http://i34.tinypic.com/dg05l4.jpg)
.......is the word. Spend the week off sipping gin and tonics on the veranda while the elbows heal.
After 4 weeks of resting and not climbing I'm getting very twitchy! I figure my skin will probably be the first thing to go especially if its warm. Lime would be preferable but my elbows would probably blow out again.
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get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.
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Good call dave. North facing IIRC so nice and cool. Some great technical routes at Staden.
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Insert Quote
get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.
Sounds good I'll have to check it out although past experiences with trad lime have never been that great. Always preferred sport routes!
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seriously, staden is great - god rock quality, good lines, friendly aspect andalthough quarried its kinda on a natural fault plane or whatever so you've got some faux natural features, grooves, stalactites etc.
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Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives.
Oh no........
Don't panic, I think with some bolt-on holds and a big clipstick it is still just about climbable.
Oh, hang on a minute... ::)
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get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.
The E2s are great...!
Staden main face is the best bit of lime in the Peak.
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Much as I like Staden, the main wall routes aren't slab climbing, just wall climbing at a friendly angle. Paraplege and the one next to it, and that E5 further left are slab climbing but rather less friendly.
I know its summer but the speed with which a thread on gritstone has gone south is disappointing to say the least.
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:lol:
Show a bit of love for the lime JB.
:kiss2:
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Fuck both. It's slate weather.
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boy those slate crags on the outskirts of sheffield will be busy this weekend. :wank:
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You've been funnier, Dave :P
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Come on JB it's 25'c, minimum breeze, maximum mugginess, even you'll be heading down the Cornice ;)
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Where the humidity will be a suffocating 100%. No ta. I'll wait for a westerly breeze before heading down there.
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Bringin the grit back. I got out last night at apparent north and ticked off a couple of projects. Backatcha!
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I went to Burbage North, nearly slipped off one of the moves of Black Slab while soloing and then got spat off a VS lead. Went home in a huff after that.
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Dont want to point out the obvious but you were in the sun and out the wind! i on the other hand.........
You wouldnt see a surfer going out without checkin the forecast.
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Thought the friction was pants to start with at Rivelin last night but soon improved. No slips.
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Speaking of Rivelin and slabs. The already mentioned Brush Off E4/5 has Party Animal E2/3 and Fringe Benefit E1 next door.
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Where the humidity will be a suffocating 100%. No ta. I'll wait for a westerly breeze before heading down there.
Hmmm, you seem to know too much about lime conditions, Mr Brown :-\
Moorland grit is probably where it's at anyway.
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The rock today was somewhat clammy. Went to Burbage North until the sun hit it full on before moving to South and doing a couple of routes in the quarries. Left home at half five to get in a full day. Fella giving us a lift from Hathersage was pretty perplexed by our keenness in face of such terrible conditions. All was well though.
The hand traverse on Now Or Never was somewhat spice-ay in the heat.
Then I got the squits and had to walk to the Fox House to relieve myself :(
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Then I got the squits and had to walk to the Fox House to relieve myself :(
Thanks for your input, as ever, William :lol:
[or should that be output?]
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I assume 'the squits' aint no route and you were so exited you had to go to the Fox House to 'Relieve yourself'!?!?
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Moorland grit is probably where it's at anyway.
Wouldn't bother with Kinder Northern Edges for at least another week - most of it was alternating between just plain damp and a lovely shade of green on Wednesday.
bluebrad
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Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...
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Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...
It may well be in condition now and if the weather continues like it has been for a few more days then it will improve. However on Wednesday Legacy was apparently suffering with wet hand holds on the traverse, Eureka was soaked low down, Jester Cracks looked absolutely gopping on the crux and Twisted Smile was suffering with huge green streaks and general wetness. Of those four the only one that I would be reasonably sure of being in a climbable condition would be Legacy.
bluebrad
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Good knowledge.. I'm glad I didn't walk up there yesterday then!
I was at Staden on Saturday and did all the routes on the main wall (apart from the E5 and the funny eliminates). A great day out in perfect Summer climbing conditions.
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I was at Staden on Saturday and did all the routes on the main wall (apart from the E5 and the funny eliminates). A great day out in perfect Summer climbing conditions.
:agree: was up at Dovestone Tor yesterday. Great Buttress was very green, but everything was bone dry and it was gorgeous.
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JB - Cheers for the Cornice/ westerlies tip, but not just for slabs, where exactly would you be heading on the grit at the moment? Hen cloud? The Shinning Clough? Just anywhere in the shade or anywhere that's god but green and dank all winter?
Brush Off E4/5
<gradebagging> Did you hit the wrong numbers, or do you or someone else think this is really E4/5? If so can I please have a list of all the other E5s you think this is comparable to. </gradebagging>
Isn't Rivelin Midgy AF right now anyway?
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JB - Cheers for the Cornice/ westerlies tip, but not just for slabs, where exactly would you be heading on the grit at the moment? Hen cloud? The Shinning Clough? Just anywhere in the shade or anywhere that's god but green and dank all winter?
Brush Off E4/5
<gradebagging> Did you hit the wrong numbers, or do you or someone else think this is really E4/5? If so can I please have a list of all the other E5s you think this is comparable to. </gradebagging>
Isn't Rivelin Midgy AF right now anyway?
I was working from memory but thought I remember reading the latest BMC guide went E5/E3/E1 left to right on the slab and Rockfax online went E4/E2/E1. Just checked Rockfax and they're correct. I'll have to wait until I get home to see if I've got the grade for The Brush Off mixed up with Grim Fandango.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9709 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9709)
It was midgey around the Needle but don't remember any midges near the slab or around Altar Crack.
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They are E3/4 (tending to the latter), E2/3, and E1/2 (tending to the former). I liked Party Animal quite a lot.
Paz: I'd still go up to Kinder North myself. Failing that....Hen Cloud is fine in winter. Shining Clough is good, Laddow ain't bad as it's all bimbly there. Wimberry of course, what a quality crag that is. Dovestones Edge too. Basically anything North-facing, higher the better.
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Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...
It may well be in condition now and if the weather continues like it has been for a few more days then it will improve. However on Wednesday Legacy was apparently suffering with wet hand holds on the traverse, Eureka was soaked low down, Jester Cracks looked absolutely gopping on the crux and Twisted Smile was suffering with huge green streaks and general wetness. Of those four the only one that I would be reasonably sure of being in a climbable condition would be Legacy.
bluebrad
Did Jester and Twisted on Saturday, both fine but but Twisted was very green looking. Don't be tempted to walk in from the top of Snake Pass its a long dull trudge better to go up from Snake Inn.
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Did Jester and Twisted on Saturday, both fine but but Twisted was very green looking. Don't be tempted to walk in from the top of Snake Pass its a long dull trudge better to go up from Snake Inn.
Will have to hope that this dry spell holds out for another week to 10 days then as there is no way I can get up there to get on those routes before then... :(
bluebrad
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No fuckin way is Brush Off E5. And thank fuck for that, we're back on topic.
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The Brush Off mixed up with Grim Fandango.
You have, yeah. Glad to hear the midges weren't too bad anyway. Can anyone think of a third good name that ends in `ngo' or Um Bongo's getting a Warlock next to it? We've already got a Mambo Jambo (under mesh) in the gorge and Ali Bongo's a little too provocative, even for me.
Fiend - yeah you could go to Black Rocks too, of course, and I always meant to check out Duke's Quarry. And maybe Cowper Stone and Ramshaw in the evening. Is Ravenstones really shit and green?
JB - glad to hear it. More crags please.
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In weather like this I don't tend to go climbing at all unless big chossy sea cliffs are available. Plenty of grit venues, as mentioned above, are good in the summer but right now I just want a swim. Grinah stones are a required visit, Rylstone north, Simon's seat, lord's seat etc, anywhere catching a breeze.
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It is sweltering. I can't climb for long at the moment without my feet expanding and getting painfully tight, so am trying for morning/ evening mini sessions. I tried getting larger punter boots a few years ago, but they were so shit I coudn't use them on anything hard (not wihout trying, but I'd trust my trainers just as much) and still hurt my feet just as much as my good ones that I could remove on belays, so I gave em away.
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... and I always meant to check out Duke's Quarry.
Thanks for the reminder - must go and do Great Crack soon!
bluebrad
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Hence why shuffling about on choss where boots best kept comfy. A few years ago I would have agreed with you on tight boots or trainers, but have since seen the light on comfy trad boots. Make sure they're lace-up, so you can crank 'em right up for the hard pitches, and white. Like trainers, a slightly different style of climbing is required but once accepted you can climb much harder than in trainers.
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Make sure they're lace-up, so you can crank 'em right up for the hard pitches, and white.
Can you still get Newton's?
Anyway I can't be doing with learning and trusting a whole new comfy boot climbing style, I want easy answers, dammit!
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Make sure they're lace-up, so you can crank 'em right up for the hard pitches, and white.
Can you still get Newton's?
No you fucking can't :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious: :furious: :furious: , best shoe that ever fitted me, grrrrrr :wall: :furious:
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Dave mentioned Don't Slip Now right at the start of this thread. A good route but IMO far harder than the similar E5 (and even E6) slabs a few yards away at Froggat - fluffable and with a very dangerous landing. Be careful out there.
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Really? I thought it was complete piss with just one move on it, although I will grant you a fall is not an option that I would be keen to experience.
Oh well one mans whatever is another mans something completely different and all that....
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:agree:
No shit. A friend of mine proceeded to crush all of the Froggatt slabs up to E5 onsight. He then turned his attention to this little number on his own in the days before mobile phones or mats. He ignored the route name and fell off on the onsight from the crux onto some very nasty boulders badly breaking multiple bones in his foot. He had to crawl all the way back to Froggatt where he met the rest of the uni group and was given a piggy back all the way back to the layby. A salutory tale.
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Really? I thought it was complete piss with just one move on it, although I will grant you a fall is not an option that I would be keen to experience.
Oh well one mans whatever is another mans something completely different and all that....
Be aware this comes from "The Slabmaster" :-\
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Oh well one mans whatever is another mans something completely different and all that....
Ain't that the truth.
GCW, I reckon your friend was 'lucky'.
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Yeah, I think the same about his onsight of Doug :lol:
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Yeah, I think the same about his onsight of Doug :lol:
he doesnt want to take any credit for that either because the first two moves are the same as fistful of crystals.!!!
onsight as far as i'm concerned. :bow:
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ave mentioned Don't Slip Now right at the start of this thread. A good route but IMO far harder than the similar E5 (and even E6) slabs a few yards away at Froggat - fluffable and with a very dangerous landing.
Really? I thought it was complete piss with just one move on it, although I will grant you a fall is not an option that I would be keen to experience.
Exactly my opinion. The Froggatt E6s are far worse! I'd say Jugged Hare was two grades harder.