UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on July 08, 2008, 09:54:45 pm
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Leaving in a few days for about a month. What are the must do's, soft touches, hard for the grade, etc etc 7's and 8's.
Thanks guys.
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Yo the ones I enjoyed out there would have to be:
Petite Illusion 7a+
Belle Mouvements sur Fond Bleu 7a+
Lapinerie 7b (fun!)
Changement de Look 7b+ (nails)
Blocage Violent 7b+ (nails)
Vagabond 7c (soft touch, flash candidate!)
Super Mickey 7b (fantastic!)
L'Ami caoette 8a (a goodun, slopey crimps at top need cool temps)
Berlin 7c (nails for grade)
Zagreb 6c (nice)
Corps Etranger 7b+ (romp apart from monos on crux)
Sitting Bull (easy 7b+ onsight)
Nitassinan 7a (worthwhile)
These should keep you busy dude, enjoy!!
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Nice one Ted, done most of those, but a few of them sound good.... Vagabond sounds good for the 7c flash! ;)
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Wasn't sure if you'd been before dude, Mirage 7c+ and Privelige du Serpent 7c+ look amazing but I ain't tried them. Its a whole world of stamina!!!
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Wasn't sure if you'd been before dude, Mirage 7c+ and Privelige du Serpent 7c+ look amazing but I ain't tried them. Its a whole world of stamina!!!
Quite fancy Dolce Vita, a cool 8a+ next to Berlin. Think a play on Violent Illusion too!
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Super Mickey 7b (fantastic!)
really? I thought it was fairly poor as a route, polished start and very inconsistent climbing.
Someone has my guide at the moment so excuse the poor spelling:
Tenere - the best of its style at Cascade, tonnes better than Vagabond
Blanche Fesses
Correspondance imaginaire
Corps entrager - Quite easy for the grade unless the grade has since changed.
Rosanna
Keket Blues instead of Super (polished) Mickey
Alabama for when you're bored of the Ceuse style and fancy something a tad more British ;)
San Johns Pecos
Colonettes
La Femme Noir
Carte Blanche
Bibendum
and some other massive 8a roof thing a bit further along.
I'd hasten to point out that I failed massively on most of the above, not a place to turn up unfit in any sense of the word.
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I'd hasten to point out that I failed massively on most of the above, not a place to turn up unfit in any sense of the word.
:agree:
Talking to Gresham on Saturday night he said incredulously "You didn't ever go to Ceuse did you?!" I replied yeah you remember, me and Smythe went, he grinned and said "But WHY?!". Looking back I'm not sure myself. It is an amazing place but you couldn't design somewhere less suited to me (Violent Illusion was wet).
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Avoid; Ananda and Medicine Douche, although you will probably use them as warmups for Cascade sector like everyone else (which is why they may have once been good routes, but are now polished to fuck).
Have fun, don't fry and beware scrotes nicking hidden gear.
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Adam, you must know the grade of this crag is 7c+...
Tenere (soft touch)
Mirage -Waaaaayy better (and a bit harder) than Tenere but much more sustained
Bleu Blanc Girophare (Hard)
Le Privilege du Serpent (ultra classic-fantastic-sustained-crux at the top-pocketistic route)
Berlin (crimpfest some say 7c)
La Femme Noire (crux at the top on slopey pockets- lovely!)
Be prepared to get pumped, oh yes :thumbsup:
I reckon as well that if you are unfit cardio-wise then the walk in will wipe you out and knock at least a half grade off your climbing ability...
The 8a roof mentioned earlier is Bourinator, not been on it but heard it's good aye
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Most of my recomendations have been covered already. A couple that haven't:
Gellati Dolemiti - the best 7a I did at Ceuse
Cent Patats - a real must do 7b+. Long intense and a bit slabby but very rewarding and up a stunning bit of rock
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Super Mickey 7b (fantastic!)
really? I thought it was fairly poor as a route, polished start and very inconsistent climbing.
I had to do it for the route's reputation and reading about it in the mags for years. I thought it was good enough and enjoyed it, swinging about on jugs. Just ignore the minging crux bit on an undercut mono and you'll be alreet!
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I've seen folk jump past the mono on Super Mickey.
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I didn't use any mono. Pretty sure I didn't jump either.
Coming fresh from doing bouldery UK routes as you are I'd recommend Collonettes with the boulder prob start as a steady 8a (7c+ if you pull on the bolts at the start like the euros).
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I didn't use any mono. Pretty sure I didn't jump either.
Then by process of elimination we can conclude you were not one of the folk I saw. Unless you are spanish, quite short and very strong?
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I didn't use any mono. Pretty sure I didn't jump either.
Then by process of elimination we can conclude you were not one of the folk I saw. Unless you are spanish, quite short and very strong?
Crux is something like Crimp, two finger (Mono...how fat are your hands people?) undercut RH again to crimp, there goes the onsight eh adam ;) .....
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It's an ok route at a great crag, there are loads better at the grade. It tends to come up in Ceuse discussions too often because it's one of those routes that everyone does.
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Porquoi Pas at 7a+ is fun, very varied and the 7c left of it is classy (Machoire d'Ane I think), hard crimpa start then Ceuse class above (read hard and spaced bolts!) a true beauty.
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I didn't use any mono. Pretty sure I didn't jump either.
Then by process of elimination we can conclude you were not one of the folk I saw. Unless you are spanish, quite short and very strong?
Crux is something like Crimp, two finger (Mono...how fat are your hands people?) undercut RH again to crimp, there goes the onsight eh adam ;) .....
Well, i flashed it years ago.... Think i did use a mono from memory though!
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Will second Bonjoy's recommendation of Cent Patates 7b+.......best route i did at Ceuse....just immensely enjoyable technical climbing up an amazing face....
Others...
Privalige du serpent 7c+
Corps Etranger (7b+ now, feels like 7c)
Queue du rat 7b+
Petite Illusion 7a+
Carte Blanche 8a
Correspondance Imaginaire 7c+
Bibendum 7b+
Bleu Blanc Gyrophare 7c+ (sharp and not as popular as its neighbours but very good!)
Vagabond is really overated.....shit in my opinion and soft...
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Corps Etranger (7b+ now, feels like 7c)
First go on it I thought it was nails until I realised you could get in a really good Egyptian and avoid having to pull on that mono thing 7b+ is maybe a bit harsh though!
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the pull on the mono isn't the crux, and its deeper than Annabel Chong....
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oh :shrug: the two little ish holds further up then i'm presuming :shrug:
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i'd say so