UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: travs on June 09, 2008, 08:45:05 am
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Did a nice mantel problem at Burbage South on Saturday. It looks pretty inocouous but is harder you might think. Its located on a small boulder next to the path half way between Forked Lightening Crack and the Knack. Its very low to the ground and at the quoted grade no aretes are used. Start hanging the lip and mantle up on a variety of small seams, named 'Mini Mantle' graded 7a. On another note, does anybody know about the variety of problems below attitude inspector? Namely, great roof and prow, sit start between two boulders about 6c, and then next to this a blunt arete to slopey top out and to the right a lurch of a right hand side pull with feet on smears to another slopey top out?
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They were both done by Iain Farrar a couple of year back, but I can't remember details. Vaguely recall 7c being mention for the LH one but could be wrong.
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Thanks for that Bonjoy, 7c would sound about right.
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Has anybody done the ramp and arete right of the route No Zag (just right of the area Travs is on about)? Its been brushed, but I dunno if its been done - has a spicy move to the break quite high up. I repeated Travs problem The Neck on Saturday (twice as it happens!) - its very good, but quite sharp. 7b seems about right.
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yeah, its been mentioned on here recently:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/GibRib_JC.jpg)
cofe's photo
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Has anybody done the ramp and arete right of the route No Zag (just right of the area Travs is on about)? Its been brushed, but I dunno if its been done - has a spicy move to the break quite high up
This is Gib's Rib, though I don't remember a ramp? Worthwhile, 7a+.
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You say rib, I say ramp, lets call the whole thing off....
Thats the problem - its very good.
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It is very good. Also more like 7a.
Conditions were horrendous when JB repeated it.
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In trainers. The two factors may have contributed to my overgrading.
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Yeah but we all know that you've got 'special' trainers - seem to have some sort of glue on the bottom. How else could a man/monkey thing stick to the crag with such carefree abandon I ask you?
(or maybe JB has just got a pair of those fancy Daescents - if that's a trainer, then my pet dog is in fact an elephant)
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In trainers. The two factors may have contributed to my overgrading.
should we downgrade wss now then?
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Not yet petal.
That can wait til you've done it.
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thank fuck for that