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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 02:27:39 pm

Title: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 02:27:39 pm
Done a fairly noteworthy new line at the roadside venue of Sampson's Stones in Eskdale...

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/14.html

I'm sure nobody will bother repeating it but it had to be climbed; stunning climbing on an incredible boulder in a breathtaking location, what more could you ask for... a ski lift perhaps.

Also, I've updated the Sampson's Stones topo to font grades and revised a few descriptions: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f71.pdf
Added a Cringlebarrow bouldering topo: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/53.html
And finally Tim Fish has developed a fine looking new "easier" circuit in Longsleddalle: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f108.pdf
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2008, 02:33:15 pm
Some of SoC's ones are surely harder to get to?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 02, 2008, 02:35:32 pm
So thats what the power endurance training was for! Glad it paid off. Once weather warms up and i am psyched to get up there. Has Jordan been there yet?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Houdini on June 02, 2008, 02:38:25 pm
 8)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: dave on June 02, 2008, 02:39:49 pm
Some of SoC's ones are surely harder to get to?

the bus service to cloud cuckoo land is intermittent at best.

nice one greg, its a good spot up there, it is just about worth the walk. wouldn't fancy having a project there though unless i owned a huey.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 02, 2008, 02:40:31 pm
8)
\
Don't know where you got that from? Its a 60 min walk in......

(Ahhh, you edited your mistake)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 02:47:57 pm
Quote
Some of SoC's ones are surely harder to get to?
Oh yeah, silly me.  ;)

So thats what the power endurance training was for! Glad it paid off. Once weather warms up and i am psyched to get up there. Has Jordan been there yet?

Don't think JB's been there, although not 100% sure. I wouldn't let it get too hot, I was there the previous Saturday afternoon and kept slipping off the crux on the link. So I got up early door this Saturday for some splendid conditions.

Edited: As it actually sounded like I was after a medal.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 02, 2008, 02:51:25 pm
I wouldn't let it get too hot

We are in britain  ::)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: TomP on June 02, 2008, 03:29:50 pm
Always wanted to make the mission up to Sampson Stones. Used to walk there and swim in the Esk as a kid and looked at the boulders before I started climbing. What's the line straight through the middle of this?
(https://secure.mmm.co.uk/sei/s/1284/849.jpg)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Dave Westlake on June 02, 2008, 03:34:02 pm
Good effort Greg, that looks ace - it sounds like you're going well at the moment :thumbsup:
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: slackline on June 02, 2008, 03:41:36 pm
What's the line straight through the middle of this?

At a guess I'd probably say Quasar from the description...

"..to a tricky drop down, at the halfway point, into the lower holds of Quasar, before continuing left..." (http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/14.html)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 04:00:26 pm
Always wanted to make the mission up to Sampson Stones. Used to walk there and swim in the Esk as a kid and looked at the boulders before I started climbing. What's the line straight through the middle of this?

(https://secure.mmm.co.uk/sei/s/1284/850.jpg)

1. Calabi-Yau SDS (5+) Arete
2. 186000 MPS (6a+) Thin wall between the arete and Stargazer.
3. Stargazer SDS (7c)
4. Quasar SDS (7a)
4a. Quasar LH Finish SDS (7a+)
5. The Drake Equation SDS (6b)
6. (5)
7. Pulsar SDS (7a) The prow.
8. Macho Man SDS (7b/+) Up Pulsar across into TDE (7b) or Quasar LH (7b+)
9. Hypernova SDS (8a)
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: nik at work on June 02, 2008, 04:03:55 pm
Stargazer SDS and Quassar SDS have the same line and different grades?
Or am I being dim?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 04:07:47 pm
Sorry, I was presuming you'd read the news report. The main line (thick dashed) finishes up Stargazer, thus showing the way. Due to the angle of the photo it does not accurately show the width of the wall P2 goes up. See the image in Lakes Rockfax (if you have it) for a better reference, although ignore the lines they're mostly in the wrong place.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: TomP on June 02, 2008, 04:53:25 pm
Looks like there is a potential sitter into problem 6. Have you looked at that Greg? Incredible looking boulder!
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 02, 2008, 05:00:08 pm
Possibly, although it's pretty blank under there. The gap up the centre right of the shield feature (between Stagazer and Quasar LH) is the best thing left to do on this block, I reckon. There is an obvious project out of a small cave on the Cosmos boulder, that looks good. It's marked on the LakesBloc topo...
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: nik at work on June 02, 2008, 05:02:46 pm
A-ha, so I was being dim (or at least lazy).
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: tc on June 02, 2008, 05:03:23 pm
Nice one young man!
By the way, if you're updating the topo, Problem 6 on Boulder 1 has a name: "Flambouyancy Aid"
I'll be up there myself later this week, weather permeating. With ropes, unfortunately.
tc
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: tc on June 02, 2008, 05:08:17 pm
Apropos new stuff (but at a more sedate and gentlemanly grade) the new problems on the Howff boulder at Carrock were very favourably received by my weekend visitor, too. He's a pretty unimpressible chap, so they must be quality  :)
Greg, any chance you could get that shot of the Howff on here so folk can go and have a play?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Nigel on June 02, 2008, 05:59:16 pm
Good effort Greg, by the sounds of it you do deserve a medal for getting this behemoth done! This is a great summer venue and an ace day out with wonderful problems on primo rock. The walk in should not be an issue unless you are disabled, it is worth it and lets face it that's what we have legs for. The gap that Greg mentions between Stargazer and Quasar is a strong line and will be pretty tricky (7c-7c+ ish???) but is a bit blinkered - this is where I wanted Stargazer to go but unfortunately it is not the line of least resistance. An obvious challenge though. As is the low roof, which is pretty low and short on length but looks to have some good moves on.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 03, 2008, 09:18:37 am
Apropos new stuff (but at a more sedate and gentlemanly grade) the new problems on the Howff boulder at Carrock were very favourably received by my weekend visitor, too. He's a pretty unimpressible chap, so they must be quality  :)
Greg, any chance you could get that shot of the Howff on here so folk can go and have a play?

(http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/851.jpg)

Tim Carruthers has recorded a number of lines at Carrock Fell, and whilst some have no doubt been climbed before they are all worthy additions and needed recording. Tim gives the lowdown... http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/14.html

There you go. I've also added the name to P6 B1, on the Sampson's Stones topo, sorry for missing it out in the first place.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 03, 2008, 09:29:39 am
Quote
Added a Cringlebarrow bouldering topo: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/53.html

No mention of the 'objective dangers' that stalk this crag?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: Greg C on June 03, 2008, 09:49:56 am
Quote
Added a Cringlebarrow bouldering topo: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/53.html

No mention of the 'objective dangers' that stalk this crag?

What you mean the fact that Doyle's been there recently?
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: n_man on June 03, 2008, 10:22:22 pm
Shame that you haven't given it the 8a+ that you thought that it might be Greg. Might have brought out more potential repeats?

Gregs line is awesome, but for those of us in the more realistic grade range, I'd put Macho Man in my top 10 probs in the UK.
Title: Re: UK's Most inaccessible 8th-graded line...
Post by: c.j.d. on June 04, 2008, 08:22:28 am
Nice one Chappers - I am defo coming up next Thursday for some Shucks Lair action - may stay for two days if your around for a tour of elswhere?
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