UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: travs on May 21, 2008, 08:43:52 am
-
OK so I am going to report a new problem at secret garden and almost certainly open myself up to 'I did this years ago' or 'It's a bit of an eliminate'. Either way the moves are good, so here is 'A Tricky Traverse' graded 7b. It is a right to left low traverse of the block to the left of Zafs etc. Sit start with both hands on the obvious crimp foot hold just left of the crack. Move left keeping at this height until left hand is in the pocket just right of the small corner round the arete. Right hand up to small 2 finger pocket, left out to sloper at same height as pocket and left of corner crack. Then right down to base of crack and move out left at same height as this and up to finish. So bring on the ridicule!
-
The lime's been called Neil. What are you playing at? ;)
-
Very true, I appologise for straying and promise not to do this again. However, the conditions were quite good and it was nice and quiet and no midges. All in all a perfect evening's climbing.
-
I think farrer and zaff used to do this one in reverse (left to right) but its highly likely that they also reversed this as well
-
Aye, I was about to say I've seen Zaff float all over this bit, usually without using any of the conventional holds.
-
was he doing his finest gecko impression?
-
I've done it l-r and r-l : a worthwhile problem which you've rightly publicised Travs. I reckon Zaff and the cockney sparra will have done it too. Nice climbing.
-
and the grand doights and my good self, both ways like uptown
-
swing both ways?
-
I've done it l-r and r-l : a worthwhile problem which you've rightly publicised Travs. I reckon Zaff and the cockney sparra will have done it too. Nice climbing.
I apologise to Travs - having read through my diaries recently I was off the mark. :thumbsdown:
I climbed the left to right traverse (sit start at the corner/flake) around the arete and up in October '97.
I also climbed a good eliminate that I got mixed up with 'a tricky traverse'. Sit start at the arete, up and left to share the sloping seam then two pops for dimples on the left wall, up to the slopey break and top. I called it 'slope grope' for my personal records - not for internet mockery.
I can't comment for Zaff, Iain or Jamie as they used to enjoy this bloc as much as I did. They avoid t'interweb for good reasons.
Good effort Travs on a nice link on fine rock. I'll try it next time I'm down.
-
Any photos? I'm looking for a 7b to work. Sounds good. Is this the block included in the old peak district guide or is it further right?
-
I mean left :wall: