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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on September 01, 2003, 11:40:09 am

Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 01, 2003, 11:40:09 am: Was unfortunate enough to be on the grit yesterday. Was fine till about 3, then the midges decended (Bur North). Tried Higgar, same, had a think, drove round and went to the Snor.

Where can you go on trh grit when its midgey? Obviously high up, but where? :?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 01, 2003, 11:43:28 am: I think yesterday was a northerly wind, so you would have been OK at burbage south i recon. I was there on tuesday with a northerly and it was brassic. We were at gardoms on satdy that was OK too. You just gotta chase the breeze.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 01, 2003, 11:47:30 am: Quote from: "dave"
I think yesterday was a northerly wind, so you would have been OK at burbage south i recon. I was there on tuesday with a northerly and it was brassic. We were at gardoms on satdy that was OK too. You just gotta chase the breeze.

Aye, thats why we thought Higgar...

Oh well, will know for next time
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 01, 2003, 11:50:48 am: but higgars east facing i think the wind was 4cast to be N or NW.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Jim on September 01, 2003, 12:33:58 pm: might be going up to gardoms in a bit, is it dull, overcast and cold like it is in da manc?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 01, 2003, 12:36:06 pm: yeah it is pretty much. was brighter earlier.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Jim on September 01, 2003, 01:05:10 pm: Excellent :D just what the doctor order

Cheers dave
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Jim on September 02, 2003, 06:55:35 pm: still a few midgy's at gardoms nth (but not too many) t'other day. has anybody done that roof thingy to the right of the first boulder you come to? (the traverse boulder). I gave it a try, quite easy getting up it, but topping out looked far to scary for a wuss like me. there was some chalk on it so someones probably done it.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 02, 2003, 10:30:09 pm: i think thats percy's roof innit?

not to many midges at burbage south tonite, despite the lack of any real wind.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: james on September 03, 2003, 09:58:57 am: thay were out in force on monday. Tried gardoms, b.south and higgar.
Where is the crux on trelis?
Cheers

James
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 03, 2003, 10:01:02 am: although i've not done trellis (fell off the top about 50 times on day was climbing shit) the crux move is likley to be slapping for the top. If you are short the lower wall may be hard.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: james on September 03, 2003, 10:05:37 am: I had about 6 goes and didnt manage to get to the good hold. my fingers toutched the lip static but could go no further. On my last go I tried to dyno it. I hit the hold but wasnt sure If i would be able to hold it. How do you do it
Cheers

James
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 03, 2003, 10:07:48 am: we were putting in a good foot lock down and right and the right base of the main "shield", makes getting the good hold a formality.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: james on September 03, 2003, 10:10:25 am: Ill try that next time.
Cheers

james
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Scouse D on September 03, 2003, 10:22:03 am: Aye, footlock down and right to reach the good hold(might need to bump L foot up if you're short. Once matched smear outside left high on brush mark and lay one on. Brush the top hold cos it gets dirty, and if you get a good hand on it it's a joy to catch.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: mark on September 03, 2003, 11:28:21 am: Are you guys really tall? I put in an egyptian to get the edge, don't think I'd be able to reach with a footlock. Unless I was missing something.

Move for the top is very good. Took a couple of goes to get comfortable with the fall then could really lay one on for the finish in relative comfort. Brilliant problem.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 03, 2003, 11:31:51 am: I would say average to tall.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Scouse D on September 03, 2003, 02:15:51 pm: Tried to do it again the other day with minimal mattage and smacked down after missing the top, missing the mats and properly bruising my heel- so dont get too complacent and get a good spotting team!
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on September 03, 2003, 11:42:19 pm: top beta for trellis for the short.........
get side pull wit left, left foot under undercut on good foothold, ignore this bogus tall persons faggoterium of heelhooks etc cos u still wont reach jack and put right foot on edge to the right and half egyptian drop knee (it sound wierd but it worked) to slap wit right to good hold. tried t link statically, could do it one in three but was buggered for next move! must of been the altitude
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dobbin on September 04, 2003, 07:45:44 am: Quote from: "dave"
I would say average to tall.

Fcuk off! Parry's about 9ft! :wink: :wink:

James is tiny too.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 04, 2003, 09:19:32 am: i was refering to the heght of the group i was with trying it, generally average to tall. anyway i'm only 6'1!!!
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dobbin on September 04, 2003, 09:57:29 am: Tallest man alive!

I says to me missus when I sees him, I says 'Its a man mountain so it is' Bloody giants. Like to see you on the Beauty of bieng numb eh?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Avoiding the Traitor on September 04, 2003, 10:02:54 am: You call that tall? Wait till you see my cousin :shock:
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 05, 2003, 02:33:05 pm: I know it's not much of a bouldering crag but Black Rocks is a good midgefree option. Went there the other day after suffering seventh level midge death at Stanage, and despite still humid conditions there was not a single midge to be seen.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: simone on September 05, 2003, 03:22:59 pm: what type of problems / grades are there at Black Rocks?
how far away is it from sheffield?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Bubba on September 05, 2003, 03:23:55 pm: It's very near Cromford which is near Matlock.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: simone on September 05, 2003, 03:27:18 pm: is it worth checking out, or is there not much there?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 05, 2003, 03:28:25 pm: here (http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?X=430000&Y=357500&width=700&height=400&client=public&gride=&gridn=&srec=0&coordsys=gb&addr1=&addr2=&addr3=&pc=&scale=50000&advanced=&multimap.x=336&multimap.y=290)
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Bubba on September 05, 2003, 03:29:35 pm: Not sure I'm afraid,

I've never been there to boulder. I think there's some descriptions in one of the routes guide for Railway Slab (?) - James will probably know if he sees this...
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 05, 2003, 03:40:13 pm: english 6a traditional style apparently, Railway Slab:

(http://dangeroussite.com/images/gallery/peak%20grit/railway%20slab.JPG)
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Bubba on September 05, 2003, 03:43:17 pm: Looks quite nice, but if that's the extent of the bouldering then I'd go somewhere else!
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: simone on September 05, 2003, 03:43:48 pm: looks cool :8)
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 05, 2003, 03:45:50 pm: i think theres some boulderable routes on the block (golden days E3 6b?). Bear in mind the '81 derwent valley guide gives Velvet Silence (E6 6c) a mere english 6a and no E-grade!!!WTF?

also meshuga is only B8, apprently. :roll:
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 05, 2003, 04:00:43 pm: Quote from: "dave"
i think theres some boulderable routes on the block (golden days E3 6b?). Bear in mind the '81 derwent valley guide gives Velvet Silence (E6 6c) a mere english 6a and no E-grade!!!WTF?

also meshuga is only B8, apprently. :roll:

B8?! B8 crux maybe

Or should that be E8?
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: dave on September 05, 2003, 04:06:09 pm: someone told me it was like B8 on a toprope.
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: AndyR on September 05, 2003, 05:24:20 pm: Quote from: "dave"
english 6a traditional style apparently, Railway Slab:

That rope looks well useful!
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: james on September 05, 2003, 05:30:39 pm: There are a few things on the railway slab upto eng 6c. There is the block at the back with golden days which is nice. There is also the mantle of angels share etc to try (eng 6c). There is the railway boulder whuch also has a few things on (left of R.S). Not that much realy, you would be better taking a rope :shock:
Cheers

James
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: Bubba on September 05, 2003, 06:55:37 pm: Quote from: "AndyR"
That rope looks well useful!

Yeah, wtf is that about - better with a pad methinks....
Title: Grit When Midgey!
Post by: LJ on September 05, 2003, 07:20:27 pm: Did railway slab t'other day, and would have to say it aint worth it really, certainly not worth goin to the place specifically for. Im sure it was good in its day but i think too much abseiling down it has been done, quite alarmin to see ureself climbing all the way up it! :? Some decent fun on a big boulder to left though, but only if ure desperate! Bonus point is its all in the shade