UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: rlovatt on May 08, 2008, 09:12:01 am
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Whenever i dead hang one handed my body always rotates inwards. Should I let this happen or try and stay as face on as possible.
Also the rung im using is 30mm is this two large or would you suggest hanging weighted doulble handed on a smaller edge. problem is i can hang on a 20mm edge with two fingers on each hand plus 20kg, but not getting any closer to a one hander on this edge.
any thoughts
thanks
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I'm no expert, but I would have said that 30mm is much too big? Could you do 20mm with theraband assistance from the other hand? When I (rarely) do deadhangs, it try and do things like one hand one 20mm rung and other hand mono or two finger on 20mm edge so that most of the weight has to be supported by the full hand. Not sure if this is the best approach, but it can avoid needing weights?
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One hand on 20mm edge, other hand on a pulley taking a bit of weight off?
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"o things like one hand one 20mm rung and other hand mono or two finger on 20mm edge so that most of the weight has to be supported by the full hand. Not sure if this is the best approach, but it can avoid needing weights?"
That seems to be pretty much what Dave Mac advocates.
I would have thought that you could screw your elbow joint twisting whilst hanging, or that the movement could lead to you popping off the hold and hurting tendons.
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since i have no life or friends i have started experimenting with half-crimping one-armed on a rung. i am doing this straight armed and at ninety, both face on. the difference between doing it face on and twisting is utterly ridiculous. when straight armed i'm keeping the shoulders square. i am talking minimal time here, good lord very minimal, but it's improving slowly. the downside is it feels like you've been wrestling with an alligator. the upside is no one can see you semi-naked cursing in a respectable neighbourhood because of the high walled gardens.
i don't really know how this would apply to climbing, but then again neither did uncle and look at him now, the best climber in his house
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the best climber in his house
Is that what you aspire to? You're not even the most bald.
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no, i put that in for SF to comment on. he musn't have had access to web. denial is a terrible thing
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since i have no life or friends i have started experimenting with half-crimping one-armed on a rung. i am doing this straight armed and at ninety, both face on. the difference between doing it face on and twisting is utterly ridiculous. when straight armed i'm keeping the shoulders square. i am talking minimal time here, good lord very minimal, but it's improving slowly. the downside is it feels like you've been wrestling with an alligator. the upside is no one can see you semi-naked cursing in a respectable neighbourhood because of the high walled gardens.
i don't really know how this would apply to climbing, but then again neither did uncle and look at him now, the best climber in his house
[/b]
Don't underestimate my mum. However, She is be leaving the country, which leaves me in the enviable position of the uncontested best climber in the house, but for how long...
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Don't underestimate my mum.
A man would be a fool to do this, she is a formidable women.
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Don't underestimate my mum.
A man would be a fool to do this, she is a formidable women.
yes I will miss her when she has gone ;)