UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2008, 01:29:11 pm
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I know there have been a fair few threads on Rodellar, but just after a few really good shorter routes to try and get fit again. Been bouldering for last 3 months and a random trip to Rodellar has come up and i am off tomorrow. Not got time to get at all fit but any harder routes that are pretty short would be cool.
Also some of the longer classics i can get fit on would be cool.
Ta
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Hey Adam, was there last year and couldn't climb on the big routes cos they were wet, from what I remember:
The El Camino is ok but boring warm up type routes.
Crag with Welcome to Tijuana has short routes
Egocentrismo is fairly short (20m?) but with some really steep start in the 7s
There are loads of little crags other than the big 3 (grand boveda, surgenica and mascun) so you shouldn't have any problems getting fit before you start doing the proper routes....
Oh yeah say hi to my mates Nic and Dario once you're out there (quiet scots lad and a very camp italian dude)
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I thought the best stuff tended to be the long stuff and I didn't get on many short things despite being there for two months, but there are some good short ones. Their's also some fairly long things that boil down to short hard bits after a good rests (often good kneebars).
Longish but not too pumpy(by Rodellar standards):
Nanuk - 7c
Argo - 8a(soft)
Lola - 8a
El Delphin - 7c+
Citrus - 8a+
Other ones which are total classics, but probably pumpy:
Coliseum - 8a
El Coridor Del Muerta(?) - 8a
Ironman - 7b+/7c
Adios Pepita - 8a
Cosi Fan Tutti (L1)- 8a+
Kings Of Metal - 8a+
The 7c and 7c+ left of Argo, I forget the names.
Pince Sans Rire - 7b+
Mal D'Amour - 8a+
Gladiator - 8b
Pretty much anything on Gran Boveda and Ventanas is ***
So many awesome routes! Make sure you bring a long rope. Go to Piscineta in the Alcanadra (next gorge along, but in same guide) at least once, it's mind blowing and has a brilliant swimming hole below.
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Just remembered a couple of shortish good ones. Familia Mansun - 8a+ and the 8a+ to it's left. Both pretty short, but virtually horizontal. FM is ok to a burly crux (font 7b?). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxMFu8tARfk&feature=related
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short routes,
donīt forget the ali baba cave :) hard routes inside and some (7c something) routes outside ( 3 bolts )
i also recomend "familia Manson" cave.
the cave where is "maldita codicia".
there is a sector called "bulder del jon" with very short routes.
and thereīs more iīm sure you will have fun :)
apretar a muerteeeeeeeee!!!
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Thanks guys, only going for a week, but climbing everyday. Heard its drying out so should be good.