UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: unclesomebody on March 27, 2008, 02:01:10 pm
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I heard a rumour that Dave was back in font, and my first thought was Kheops Assis. Well, it turns out I was right and he crushed it wearing a mighty fine looking vest.
Pictures courtesy of Olivier's blog;
http://bp0.blogger.com/_RFzdD0j6XdU/R-twePaztZI/AAAAAAAAAPw/GNF5Jy9H_Vk/s1600-h/dave+Kheops+assis1.jpg
http://bp2.blogger.com/_RFzdD0j6XdU/R-twlvaztaI/AAAAAAAAAP4/BnJq_Hq3jAU/s1600-h/dave+Kheops+assis.jpg
http://bp1.blogger.com/_RFzdD0j6XdU/R-twsfaztbI/AAAAAAAAAQA/KQUW7N2mqKU/s1600-h/dave+Kheops+assis2.jpg
I wonder if my prediction of the next tick will turn out to be correct... let's wait and see (because it will certainly be newsworthy). :bow:
ps. I can't hotlink to the hi-res version so you'll have to click. Sorry.
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Mmmmmm muscley vest wearing :thumbsup:
I mean, yes, jolly good effort, top climbing, other less pervy stuff... ;)
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Guy's a beast, if your gonna climb in a white vest you'd better be strong.
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:bow:
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I wonder if my prediction of the next tick will turn out to be correct... let's wait and see
Will you also tell us on Sunday if your prediction of the Saturday lottery numbers was correct?
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:bow:
beast
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Never mind Graham. Jim, Dense and Somebodys Fool will be over next week showing the forest who's boss
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in vests hopefully
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Anyone caught not in possesion or wearing a vest will be kicked off the tour bus
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I wonder if my prediction of the next tick will turn out to be correct...
:bow:
Tell us then. You don't get any waddage Keith if you only announce your predictions after they've been proven to have been correct retrospectively. Unless you want a career as a calirvoyant or a conspiracy theorist. Maybe this is another thread.
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force du destin?
Dai's traverse thing?
the project on the back of the Memel block? (this I would love to see!)
Karma assis?
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Well he is not sponsored by Prana anymore so maybe its a fruit of the loom!
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My prediction is that he will do the sit down to Partage.
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imothep assis?
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Partage SDS? Why would anyone bother w/ that? Hard, cool feature - but it's horrid spraggy dirty crimp climbing that doesn't even use the feature it is. Having watched someone do it I can't be arsed to put the effort in on it.
Speculating what people might climb . . . Vicarious pleasures :thumbsdown:
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Well he is not sponsored by Prana anymore . . .
Why? Is he too shit? Always said Graham was a crap climber . . . ::)
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Perhaps this should be changed into a sweepstake about what Graham will climb next. As for my guess, there is no danger of telling you all because only punters go on these forums, it's the Rumont roof project. No doubt some of you will have seen it, and it is completely incredible plus totally nails. So, that's where my money is.
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As for my guess, there is no danger of telling you all because only punters go on these forums...
People say hubris is a bad thing, but I kinda like it . . . 8)
EDIT To clarify - not seen the sitter climbed. The stander.
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if its the roof proj what i think. ferret thought it was one of the best lines ever, i thought it was a bit turd. two exits at the top anybody. the lower moves looked ace tho.
dune from sitter, bring your size and talent
if anybody goes to font specifically to do traverses they should be asked to leave
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Rumour is that Graham's hired an Apache attack helicopter to fly him direct from Font to do a last great problem on the Pinches Wall, one so mind blowing that the topo requires imaginary numbers and has to be plotted on a Riemann sphere: L1 R1... i. His private army of accolytes is also cleansing the way to Bell Hagg... some shit's goin' down! Next week: Sharma in Spofforth, Ramon in Rothley, Paxti at Peel....
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I heard Graham was coming to Minus Ten to polish off a few tasty eliminates before adjourning upstairs to sample the delights of the Cave, although I may be wrong.
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You're wrong, it's the Breck.
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Two words.
Brown.
Stones.
:lol:
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Thats a fucking terrible t-shirt that one. Good to see someone else who grabs their nob on topping out though - well done that wife beater. Stella anyone?
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You're wrong, it's the Breck.
Oh maybe you're right. I heard he can't sleep at night after he discovered he had used the wrong left foothold as on Zippy's last time he was there.
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Maybe old news, but just read DG's comments on Kheops assis:
Very nice problem. Tried the lst move one dya with terrible conditions, then next day, after 4 tries, sent the bloc. Hard to believe it could be 8c, so maybe 8b+ is appropriate? So many nice blocks to do but SO much rain
Blimey.
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The hooded top DG had on at Bas Cuvier last week was the greatest single item of clothing I have ever seen. Part of me wanted to attack him for it. I wish I could begin to describe it. Imagine something along the lines of a naked acid trip whilst watching the Munsters on a street corner in Cartagena; simply sublime.
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The man in question poped round the maisonbleau last night
Ticked :bow:
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He's Catholic?
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Graham who?
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Billy Graham the US Evangelist
(http://www.constitutioncenter.org/timeline/flash/assets/asset_upload_file188_12278.jpg)
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Graham Alderson.
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The man in question poped round the maisonbleau last night
Ticked :bow:
Is there much of a problem with ticks in the Forest? Should I bring tweezers next time I come?
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Actually, I got back from Font just a few days ago [Stayed at MaisonBleau and it was great. Thanks, Neil.] and I found a tick on one of my sons after a day at Canon. First time I've encountered a tick when climbing. Admittedly he had been rolling around on the ground lots but keep your tweezers at the ready. Or do you leave them to it and let them drop off? Can't remember.
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speaking of ticks Brad has just climbed Gourmandise. 4th british man to climb 8b in the forest? Fantastico!
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Effort Brad you animaux!
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In breaking news, Graham has crushed the Rumont Roof. This is without doubt one of the best things anywhere. It's 8C, it doesn't have a name yet, but I have no doubt it will soon have a great name, and I'm psyched that this section of rock has finally been solved. This is not the complete line actually. There is a lower start that is definitely climbable, but what do you get if you add some very hard moves to an 8C bloc? The first 9A bloc? It was suggested by the great man himself!
It also means my prediction was correct. HALAM!
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Any pics of this roof monsieur?! Get your ass up it 2nd ascent! :lol:
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4th british man to climb 8b in the forest?
who are the others?
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45th british man to climb 8b in the forest?
who are the others?
At a complete guess....
Moon, Moffat , Smith & Unclesomebody
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Don't think Moon or Moffatt have.
In fact Ben Pritchard once told me he didn't think Jerry had even done 8a in the forest. Chinny reckon?
Johnny G must be one. He didn't say good 8b did he?
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Johnny G mentions this in Stick It http://bleau.info/rempart/355.html in relation to anesthesia, I reckon he must have ticked the rest of Rempart and just been bored...
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Moon (hip hop assis), Clifford (at least Satan i Helvete), un named beast (kheops). Those are the ones i know of. Gaskins did a traverse which isn't graded the same. Perhaps Smith has done it? It doesn't matter anyway. The real prize is 8B+ in the forest. There's something no Brit has ever managed (or have they?).
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didn't johnny G do a there-and-back version of miroir des vanites weighing in at traverse 8b+? what does that buy you in real money?
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ive heard of a few more that have done 8b but havent reported. 8b+ is the big prize i think too
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didn't johnny G do a there-and-back version of miroir des vanites weighing in at traverse 8b+? what does that buy you in real money?
If he was on here it would buy him one wad point for effort and two punter points for wasting his talent on loggage.
ive heard of a few more that have done 8b but havent reported.
Elaborate please.
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cant im afraid :[
unreported for a reason i guess. best to keep it that way unless they wanted to say themselves. plus i didnt see it etc so it wouldnt be certain
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cant im afraid :[
unreported for a reason i guess. best to keep it that way unless they wanted to say themselves. plus i didnt see it etc so it wouldnt be certain
Genius.
I heard a tree once fell over in the forest but no-one was there, I wonder if it made a sound?
Clifford has also done Hip Hop assis
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well yeah but all im saying is i head of some things going down in the forest but they didnt report it so im guessing they dont want it to be. that is all
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John Gaskins did that traverse at Font 8b+ up on the Rampart.
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well yeah but all im saying is i head of some things going down in the forest but they didnt report it so im guessing they dont want it to be. that is all
:yawn:
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Hasn't Gaskins done 8B in the Forest?
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Isn't hip hop assis less than 8b nowadays?
No casting doubts or slagging or anything, just seem to remember it being considered 8a somewhere.....
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http://bleau.info/cailles/1188.html (http://bleau.info/cailles/1188.html)
I think if I remember rightly mr moon made some comment in the mags about it feeling easier than 8b
has anyone mentioned gaskins ::)
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I thought the 8b looked easy until I reminded myself of the top half. Has anyone been on this? it looks good.
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and don't forget johnny!
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Genius.
I heard a tree once fell over in the forest but no-one was there, I wonder if it made a sound?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgCyrkN1cNo
get a portaloo.
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I thought the 8b looked easy until I reminded myself of the top half. Has anyone been on this? it looks good.
I witnessed the 8a+ go down back in November last year, was awesome, that gaston/ crack thing for the right hand looks well tricky to pull on. Apparently the moves into it from below on the 8b are not too bad comparitively, although ain't that always the case...
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Gaskitz did Fat Man SDS, is this still 8b?
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I believe that pre chipping in 2001 it was considered 8B. When did he do it?
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The new problem looks good! (Im assuming this is the roof)
http://bleau.info/coquibus/1329.html (http://bleau.info/coquibus/1329.html)
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You assume corectly. Not sure where dave started from, There is a line all the way from the floor if I remember correctly. Im sure our resident font expert will be able to fill us in.
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You assume corectly. Not sure where dave started from, There is a line all the way from the floor if I remember correctly. Im sure our resident font expert will be able to fill us in.
I was going to email you... Dave started sitting on the edge of the boulder that sits underneath it. He started from 2 crimps and from what he explained it was 14 moves to the top. He seemed to think that was the logical start and it was the start that Pochon has been trying for years. The low right start is possible though...
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I believe that pre chipping in 2001 it was considered 8B. When did he do it?
Probably around that time, but I'm not sure of an exact date. Although I presume it's considered harder since the chipping thus it's at least 8b??
http://bleau.info/rempart/1067.html
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well, it's unrepeated since then, and from what I've seen it looks rather impossible... or certainly much harder. So, Gaskins is either in the font 8B club or a much harder club! ha ha.
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well, it's unrepeated since then, and from what I've seen it looks rather impossible...
That would be a shame.
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moon has done 8a in the forest fo' sho': karma.
plus salle gosse sit is (was) 8a.
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well, it's unrepeated since then, and from what I've seen it looks rather impossible... or certainly much harder. So, Gaskins is either in the font 8B club or a much harder club! ha ha.
Did I ever tell you about Walk Away.... :yawn: [everyone's face plants mercilessly into their keyboard] ;)
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Au contraire, I'm all ears.
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Et voila - not even a kneepad in sight!
http://bleau.info/coquibus/14399.html (http://bleau.info/coquibus/14399.html)
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Photos from www.climbingnarc.com (http://www.climbingnarc.com)
(http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/DaveGrahamsNewV15InFontainebleauTheIslan_7C13/daverumont.jpg)
(http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/DaveGrahamsNewV15InFontainebleauTheIslan_7C13/DaveRumont1.jpg)
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Nice one Stubbs. It looks amazing.
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He loves that vest.
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vests are making a comeback i can feel it
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Mine never had a goaway
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What a shit name for an awesome looking problem. Dave obviously didnt have his imagination cap on that day!
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How long has DG been in font? Had he tried either kheops or 'the island' problem before?
ie. he seems to have done them both quite quickly. He may be right at the top of his game, a level of fitness that could drop off in the following weeks? but it seems as though he doesn't find 8c that hard.
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...and 8b's approaching a rest.
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Shirley 8b+ would be approaching a rest?
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How long has DG been in font? Had he tried either kheops or 'the island' problem before?
ie. he seems to have done them both quite quickly. He may be right at the top of his game, a level of fitness that could drop off in the following weeks? but it seems as though he doesn't find 8c that hard.
interesting point. he found that problem of tyler's that is 8b plus pretty hard according to his blog. He's downgraded kheops assis to 8bplus too.
maybe its the vest?
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Looks like Chad was videoing so expect some footage on Momentum pretty soon
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"How'd it feel?"
::)
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"How'd it feel?"
::)
My god, he is even known for that here is he!
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Another good shot. http://www.pointbloc.blogspot.com/
(http://bp1.blogger.com/_RFzdD0j6XdU/R_3aPxgrigI/AAAAAAAAARI/HS-OK6Q2Be4/s1600/DaveRumont2.JPG)
Impressive line in compression, and an old project from the ages back. Huge moves in between slopers and always at my full extension, so very intense climbing. As the weather has been really bad, and my left hand pulley injury keeps me from crimping, I have a been lucky with this one. 3 days of work; hustlin'
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Just heard on the grapevine that Mickey Paige has done Kheops Assis. So does that make him first Brit to do 8b+ in the forest?
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he is one of the ones i didnt want to name in my post earlier. ive heard of a few things he has done, impressive stuff really, doesnt report them much tho!
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Just heard on the grapevine that Mickey Paige has done Kheops Assis. So does that make him first Brit to do 8b+ in the forest?
Christ! Thats cool if he has!
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He has still got time for his fans!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/2399145426_ec0ab89bbb.jpg?v=0)
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or that could look so... wrong
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Its *Page* He did the stand up to kheops last christmas and just did the sit a couple of days ago. While he's been out there he has also done Narcotic direct 8b and Gecko 8a+
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hes a strong lad. great work, good to hear that he is outside! haha
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Its *Page* He did the stand up to kheops last christmas and just did the sit a couple of days ago. While he's been out there he has also done Narcotic direct 8b and Gecko 8a+
nice one mickey!
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Some dude called Graham has put up another 8c in the Forest: The Island (http://bleau.info/coquibus/14399.html), at Coquibus Rumont (http://bleau.info/coquibus/).
(http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/DaveGraham-TheIsland-Rumont.jpg)
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Some dude called Graham has put up another 8c in the Forest: The Island (http://bleau.info/coquibus/14399.html), at Coquibus Rumont (http://bleau.info/coquibus/).
Bit slow there dude:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8905.msg142600.html#msg142600 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8905.msg142600.html#msg142600)
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Just came across this report from 2001. Interesting to compare with his recent efforts...
Dave Graham news - Dave was back at Font recently and once again has gone off! He opened the super crimpy "Sideways daze" 8b at Cuvier-Rempart, repeated Mad Maxx 8b and Surplomb de la Mee 8a+ on his last day in Font, Partage 8a+ over 3 rainy days, Duel 8a, Hibernatus 8a, Neverland 8a, Controle technique 7c+, La Chose 7c+, De la terre a la Lune 7c+, Raideur Digest 7c+, Innacesable Absolu 7c highball, Maudit Menage 7c highball, Megawatt 7c, Pancreas 7c. Les Beaux Quartiers 7c+, The bloc 8a, Megalithe @rocher greau 7c, L'arete 7c+ and Evidence 7c+ @ boissy aux cailles. Dave flashed Misericorde 8a and Petite Folie 7c+.
Below is an excerpt from 8a.nu about Daves theorising on bouldering grades. "If Fatman and Gourmandise are 8a+, Mad Maxx is 8b, Sideways Daze is harder 8b, and Spectre (Bishop) is 8b+, Nothing but sunshine (RMNP) and the fly(as a boulder problem) are hard for 8b+ and Centaur and Automater (both RMNP) are closer to 8b(way closer than fatman and gourmandise) Black Lung (Joe's valley) and Buttermilker (Bishop) could both be 8b as well considering they are way harder then the 8a+ problems in font; ie fatman and gourmandise, partinaire, and partage-hard then the other three."
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Bit slow there dude:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8905.msg142600.html#msg142600 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8905.msg142600.html#msg142600)
Completely missed that :-[ :lol:
At least I added a name and a pic
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Completely missed that :-[ :lol:
At least I added a name and a pic
Have a look at page 4 ;)
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Just heard on the grapevine that Mickey Paige has done Kheops Assis.
You're so fine you blow our minds. Great effort.
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Does this make Micky the only brit to have done 8b+ in the forest then? Did we decide if gaskins had managed the grade in font?
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Have a look at page 4 ;)
Shit, I think my eyes must have stopped working. :(
Anyway, nice one to all those out doing hard stuff in Font.
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Does anyone know what Dave Graham's been up to recently?
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Apparently he's in Europe Jasper. No details as yet though. It would be fantastic if he got on some of the hard projects in Font eh?
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Does anyone know what Dave Graham's been up to recently?
Apparently he has started a PowerBall without the string. I'm at a loss to see how he managed though. Anyone got any ideas?
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on the carpet?
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i think graham went to font to tick the last project before uncle got to touch it and crush it into the 4th millennium
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He'll be in El Paso this saturday Jasper
http://www.davecomedy.com/main/index.php (http://www.davecomedy.com/main/index.php)
I had no idea you were a fan.
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Does anyone know what Dave Graham's been up to recently?
Apparently he has started a PowerBall without the string. I'm at a loss to see how he managed though. Anyone got any ideas?
I heard he was spending the next week on the internet regurgitating old news.
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Yeah, yeah. I feel like a twat. Thanks. :lol:
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:lol:
Our work here is done... ;)
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I believe that pre chipping in 2001 it was considered 8B. When did he do it?
Just remembered this question being asked with regard to Fatman sds whilst perusing through this (http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue13/gaskins/index.htm) old interview.
"Although there are a number of other things that I've come close to doing including Fatman sit start (back in 1997)..."
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Cool interview.
"Normally this takes the form of repetitions of a problem that is between 17 and 30 moves, depending on how hard the problem is I'd do it between 3 and 9 times."
Could you be slightly more specific John?
I particularly like the question about his hairstyles and the totally humourless way he answers it. Pure Gaskins.
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Could you be slightly more specific John?
"Normally this takes the form of repetitions of a problem that is between 17 and 30 moves, depending on how hard the problem is I'd do it between 3 and 9 times, WITH A FRIDGE FULL OF TRIPES ATTACHED TO MY BACK."
this is the uncut interview.
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"WITH A FRIDGE FULL OF TRIPES ATTACHED TO MY BACK."
:lol: Lore, I pissed myself reading that. I couldn't actually think for a moment what tripe was.
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Please don't misuse The Queen's English, Mono, the word is t r i p e s !
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Jasper, you got me wondering what I'd give Mr Gaskins if I was a stylist. I looked no further than my favourite cut - the Skullet. This is probably the greatest human on earth:
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4241/tatooskulljv6.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
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What was the last book you read and did you enjoy it?
The Bible was the last book I read from (this morning). Yes I do enjoy reading from it.
Good to see johnny-G really digs the '89 Stanage guide.
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Oh I assumed he'd been perusing 7+8?
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Nah, 7+8 is the koran.
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The Bible was the last book I read from (this morning). Yes I do enjoy reading from it.
Me too, I love fantasy.
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Island footy now on http://www.momentumvm.com (http://www.momentumvm.com)
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Amazing problem and moves - You can almost hear his body creaking to keep the tension going. :bow:
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"I am the Master of my own world". The boy has style.
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Island footy now on http://www.momentumvm.com (http://www.momentumvm.com)
:jaw:
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my g/f watched the vid a couple of times and judged the problem NOT Fb 8c... ;D
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... and then she promptly told me "i think you can do it!" :bounce:
should i take her to a doctor?
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... and then she promptly told me "i think you can do it!" :bounce:
should i take her to a doctor?
no just take her to font, "you told me I could do it" should work well.
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Too negative Nibile, take your girlfriend to Font, get on the problem and maybe you'll do it...
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Dave Graham cracks me up.
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That boy needs therapy
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... and then she promptly told me "i think you can do it!" :bounce:
should i take her to a doctor?
no just take her to font, "you told me I could do it" should work well.
wad point coming.
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That boy needs therapy
Psychosomatic