UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: r-man on March 12, 2008, 07:15:18 pm
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Wow!
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/
http://www.velvetantlers.co.uk/2008/03/to-spain-and-back.html
(http://bp2.blogger.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/R9gkgzXZD1I/AAAAAAAAAwg/FxM8AufKrsU/s1600-h/darwin4.jpg)
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looks fuckin ace, mr macleod pushing the boundaries again!
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(http://i29.tinypic.com/29b0kn4.jpg)
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looks fuckin ace, mr macleod pushing the boundaries again!
Top effort and all but I struggle to see his or Hubers logic especially when it comes to sport routes, fair enough if its well below your level but 8c isn't a path by any stretch of the imagination, to anyone.
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Nice one (again) Dave mate! :thumbsup:
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The man is truely a beast.
Anyone been to Margalef? Looks wicked in some of those pics..
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Top effort and all but I struggle to see his or Hubers logic
Me too. How many things that steep are there on the Ben? I instinctively thought, `why didn't you just top rope or shut your project some more Dave', but it's on the Ben, so you probably can't. I even have to salute his keenness if he's up for a days shunting in the mountains when it's good weather.
I too want to go here. There have to be some holiday routes too, right?
A lot of what the Huber's so has for a long time ceased to be relevant, but I can kind of see a bit of logic in this as a means to an end, that it might help to solo something completely outrageous like that, foot off moves and shit, give you bit of a boost wouldn't it? I hope loads of Spaniards were watching anyway, that's the important thing.
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A lot of what the Huber's so has for a long time ceased to be relevant, but I can kind of see a bit of logic in this as a means to an end, that it might help to solo something completely outrageous like that, foot off moves and shit, give you bit of a boost wouldn't it? I hope loads of Spaniards were watching anyway, that's the important thing.
I always wonder with this kind of thing if the route tops out or was there was some shindiggery done at the lower off? and why do the clips get left in?
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Well, first of all, what can one say; amazing. Second on Paul's point of 8c not being a path, the very matter of fact way in which Dave writes up, compared to the trauma of Hell and Back last year, suggests it was all pretty comfortable. The fact that he did it as a form of training rather than as an end in itself speaks volumes of his abilities.
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and why do the clips get left in?
They look like perma-draws, attached with quick links, don't they?
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Good effort, the guy's a BEAST
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looks fuckin ace, mr macleod pushing the boundaries again!
Top effort and all but I struggle to see his or Hubers logic especially when it comes to sport routes, fair enough if its well below your level but 8c isn't a path by any stretch of the imagination, to anyone.
Well, first of all, what can one say; amazing. Second on Paul's point of 8c not being a path, the very matter of fact way in which Dave writes up, compared to the trauma of Hell and Back last year, suggests it was all pretty comfortable. The fact that he did it as a form of training rather than as an end in itself speaks volumes of his abilities.
Must admit I don't feel 100% comfortable with this type of thing. I know he's on about it being training and all the stuff about being in the zone but everyone pops off a hold occasionally and thinks "how the fuck did that happen when I was in complete control?". There have to be a couple of tenuous moves at least on an 8c however strong you are. He's pushing the boundaries and is an immensely talented climber but the idea of and 8c+/9a death route is more unpleasant than impressive to me. He seems a nice bloke and I don't want him to kill himself, especially while his Mrs is filming. Maybe I'm just a sissy. Well, actually I know I am as even the idea of tying on and trusting a rope scares me now but what I mean is perhaps my sissyness is clouding my judgement on this. Hmmm. Well done for not dying anyway.
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Must say does seem a bit whack to have the Mrs film it. Thought she looked a nervous wreck on Committed. I don't climb w/ the Frau around, freaks her out a bit.
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Watch "To Hell and Back", the BBC film of him doing his new route in Hell's Lum. She looks downright terrified.
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He's pushing the boundaries and is an immensely talented climber but the idea of and 8c+/9a death route is more unpleasant than impressive to me. He seems a nice bloke and I don't want him to kill himself, especially while his Mrs is filming.
I'm with Jasper on this. I don't think anyone whose climbed 9a should be pushing the boat out on a 8c+/9a death route. It can't be worth it however good the route is!
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He's pushing the boundaries and is an immensely talented climber but the idea of and 8c+/9a death route is more unpleasant than impressive to me. He seems a nice bloke and I don't want him to kill himself, especially while his Mrs is filming.
I'm with Jasper on this. I don't think anyone whose climbed 9a should be pushing the boat out on a 8c+/9a death route. It can't be worth it however good the route is!
I'm not sure - UK trad climbing has a long tradition of people pushing there limits in a dangerous position. Think John Redhead and Jonny Dawes. Dawes' routes may not have been physically at his limit but the low level of pre-practice possibly maybe the risks greater. The fact that Mccloud is now working at a different level of physical difficulty doesn't necessarily make it any different. I would also imagine that he would probably to looking to move himself on physically (to 9a+ level?) before commiting himself.
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Wasn't there a saying along the lines of - Remember when climbing was dangerous and sex was safe?
Seems particularly apt here.
It's a good job the internet wasn't around to shake its head in collective disapproval at the sight of a young Joe Brown trailing a runnerless rope up Right Unconquerable back in the day.
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It's a good job the internet wasn't around to shake its head in collective disapproval at the sight of a young Joe Brown trailing a runnerless rope up Right Unconquerable back in the day.
Well said that man. Its a great picture too.
Stunning effort, and from the blog its clear he was aware of the risk and doing it for himself rather than to claim the hardest solo/pander to media. His wife clearly trusts his judgement (from her blog), even if she does get scarred watching him on his routes.
What I wonder is how the route finishes and he gets down?
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:agree:
If death routes near his limit are what he's psyched for then 'nuff respect.
I'd guess he gets lowered off hanging a loop of rope like on the Hurly Burly vid..
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You don't get the impression Dave is going into these things half-out-of-bed, he's in as much control as its possible to be I think. His attitude on Indian Face clearly showed he's not reckless.
I'd be interested to see a picture showing how 'dangerous' this route is - are we talking revelations or true north?
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I'd be interested to see a picture showing how 'dangerous' this route is - are we talking revelations or true north?
neither of course its not in the UK is it ;) (tongue heavily in cheek before anyone takes offence)
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I'd be interested to see a picture showing how 'dangerous' this route is - are we talking revelations or true north?
I'd vote for the latter I think, looking at the current photos. A wise decision.
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Out of interest, Dave says in response to a comment on his blog that route is about 50' long but overhangs a road meaning dire consequences for a fall from the 'technical or redpoint crux' (doesn't make clear if these are the same or not) and that it can be topped out conventionally.
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dire consequences of a fall I can believe. However, the fact that it overhangs a road - is that really relevant? Is it additionally dangerous - you fall, break a leg and unable to move, get run over by a car... Mind you unless it has in the last 5 year got a lot more busy, it's not like you see much traffic there.
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Dunno if this has been posted already, but here is a video of Dave leading the route prior to his solo. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIZaNluM2KM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIZaNluM2KM) At least gives an idea of height.
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i agree with a lot that has been said on this thread. Maybe on this ben nevis project there is a approx 8c section on it with no protection. So in affect a solo. Mentally preparing yourself for something rated around E12 is quite a wise move in that respect.
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Chris sharma flashed this route a while ago and downgraded it to hard 8b/soft 8b+
just for the record let it be known
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Chris sharma flashed this route a while ago and downgraded it to hard 8b/soft 8b+
just for the record let it be known
Cheers for the info...
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What I wonder is how the route finishes and he gets down?
It tops out a la normal trad route.
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Andrada does the route barefoot says itīs soft for the grade
from 8a.nu:
darwin dixis Margalef / Laboratori Soft mejor 8b+ descalzo...
from http://www.daniandrada.blogspot.com/ :
he says it will look interesting to solo the route barefoot
he also says Sharma on-sighted it