UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bonjoy on March 07, 2008, 10:42:47 am
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As mentioned elsewhere I’m working on an Eastern Grit 7 + 8s. Inevitably I’ve come across quite a few mysteries. Here’s a cluster for you to be getting your teeth into.
1. Old problem from PBG – Traverse on the Bus Stop Mantel block – anyone done it? Grade?
2. SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
3. Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
4. SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
6. 5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?
7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?
8. Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
9. Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s aręte. Name, grade?
10. Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11. Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?
12. I vaguely recall that the aręte below Gaia has been bouldered out on it’s right side. Name, grade?
13. Two probs listed in BMC script for Birchen – Chasing The Dragon 7c/+ and Mermaid – 7c. Anyone know who did them or can confirm grade??
14. The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
15. Has the Veale Thing been climbed on it’s right side? Name, grade?
16. On the right side of Tody’s Playground there is one hardish problem (might be eliminate). Grade?
17. On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s aręte, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
18. Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
19. Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?
21. SS to Westworld. Grade?
22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
23. Harry’s Hole. Grade?
24. Extended Rim Traverse and SS aręte on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
26. Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
27. Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
28. Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
29. Si Weill did a new prob up the gully behind Low Rider. Name, grade?
30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
31. As Dave says, does Joe's Slab traverse go with hands or feet at the change of angle, or have both been done. What are the grades either way?
32. Cave Creation at Bell Hagg (B10 in PBG). Anyone done, grade?
Cheers a million
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17. On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s aręte, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
Kim's done the left one, i've tried it, seems i've never got stiff enough boots and am shit at slabs. i would imagine in the 7b ballpark.
could you also clarify the traverse of that slab - i always assumed it hand traversed the head-height slopes and crimps (clearly hard) but some say you walk across these (no doubt tricky but nowhere near as hard). question?
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12. I think this was Tom, in fact I'm sure it was. I have a feeling the grade was about 7c and no idea on the name. I could be wrong about the grade though, or confused, or senile. You could PM him through this site for accurate details.
17. I'd agree with Dave, thin 7b-ish.
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Cheers chaps. Have added the trav query
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17. On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s aręte, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
Kim's done the left one, i've tried it, seems i've never got stiff enough boots and am shit at slabs. i would imagine in the 7b ballpark.
Is the right hand one using the little mono/dish thing? The left hand one must be thin indeed. I could only see one line there when I did it.
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12. I think this was Tom, in fact I'm sure it was. I have a feeling the grade was about 7c and no idea on the name. I could be wrong about the grade though, or confused, or senile. You could PM him through this site for accurate details.
I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.
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22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
Do you mean number 5 in Ru's guide or a line in between this and pooh?
Also, on that no. 5 on page 73 of Ru's guide - I assume that a heel on the R arete (v good heel) is out for the 7c. I can't touch it without the heel, but starting with both hands in the break and using the R heel to go to little edge with RH (change LH to pushing down) and then again for the top feels like 7b for me (6' with good reach and only done a handfull of 7bs) not a dyno though, more of an udge.
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I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.
Ah, I might be getting confused then. Probably still worth a speculative PM.
31. I've always assumed it was hands above feet below the angle. As Dave says, feet above may be tricky but feet below is hard.
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I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.
Ah, I might be getting confused then. Probably still worth a speculative PM.
31. I've always assumed it was hands above feet below the angle. As Dave says, feet above may be tricky but feet below is hard.
Yeah, he doesn't mention the arete under gaia in this thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7616.0.html
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22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
Do you mean number 5 in Ru's guide or a line in between this and pooh?
Also, on that no. 5 on page 73 of Ru's guide - I assume that a heel on the R arete (v good heel) is out for the 7c. I can't touch it without the heel, but starting with both hands in the break and using the R heel to go to little edge with RH (change LH to pushing down) and then again for the top feels like 7b for me (6' with good reach and only done a handfull of 7bs) not a dyno though, more of an udge.
with heel on the arete this is a 6c problem (ok but nothing more) where if you get your weight over your foot you can go static. The 7c as originally claimed by mick adams as far as I know was a pooh-style dyno with feet low=hard. if you rule out the arete you can also get up to that poor crimp with left foot heel/toe on the pooh holds, leaving you just a pop for the top (terrifying without a couple of mats and a yorkshire spot!). dunno how you'd approach describing/distinguising/grading all this lot!
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In that case ignore me, I'm an idiot.
But the other stuff is right (probably...)
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13. Very vague (i.e. probably wrong) idea that these Birchens probs might have been by Katz, but as has been proven already I'm a fool....
I'm just trying to help honest...
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with heel on the arete this is a 6c problem (ok but nothing more) where if you get your weight over your foot you can go static.
:lol: :-[ doesn't surprise me at all.
dunno how you'd approach describing/distinguising/grading all this lot!
that's what youtube is for - where words and picture are not enough...
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13. Very vague (i.e. probably wrong) idea that these Birchens probs might have been by Katz, but as has been proven already I'm a fool....
I'm just trying to help honest...
Nige tells me that they were done by Mark Evans.
Have added another Q. Anyone done the old B10 thing from the PBG at Bell Hagg Cave Creation, weird lip trav under the lurcher?
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if you rule out the arete you can also get up to that poor crimp with left foot heel/toe on the pooh holds, leaving you just a pop for the top (terrifying without a couple of mats and a yorkshire spot!).
Have you done it this way? Grade? This would seem to be THE line (a bit of a tight one mind).
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nah i tried it this way briefly but with only 1 mat, poor conditions and no spotter it seems suicidal. i'm sure it would weigh in at <7c. On the same session I'd just fallen off the same move in mirror image (heel just by the arete) and fallen down that gully arse over tit. not nice.
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6. 5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?
Think this was in the old guide at B8, which could mean anything. It's a while since I've done it but I think around 7a/+
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Oh I give up....
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Word. Worth going over the latest set of bmc pdfs as many of these are covered.
Tody's wall prob - 7a+. Not really eliminate, pretty much the furthest right line uses a poor pocket. High
Joe's slab.
The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.
Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?
Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.
The Gaia arete
I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.
- I had Tom's prob down as going up the arete under Gaia. However latest Black rocks script has it as blunt rib to the left, which it sounds like it is.
Will post more once I've had another look at the op
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SS aręte on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
is this the b8 from the peak rockfax.
if so did it years ago think it would be about 6c+/7a
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Tah.
Haven't had latest scripts. Could you forward said email?
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2. SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
Did this on Sunday and it's is less than 7a
3. Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
Haven't doe it but have been told it's a one move 7b+
4. SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
Did this a while back, and don't think it's a seven either, without some very dodgy rules. It used to get B9 didn't it?
5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
James said he reckoned this was now about 7c+
10. Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
Maybe 7a tops, but it's a stiff pull.
14. The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
7b
19. Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
He's So Derrick. Can't remember the grade.
22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel. I did it at the same time as dave and i'm sure it took us a few goes.
24. Extended Rim Traverse and SS aręte on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
Both less than 7a.
26. Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
Probably still 7b+, but quite stiff.27.
30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
I dynoed this without the pebble before it was snapped off. Still 7b I reckon.
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That's what i'm talking about!
Has anyone done the two B7s at Carrhead Rocks mentioned in PBG? Grade?
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19. Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
He's so Derick - 7a+
Might be 7b, dunno. Needs some repeats, but everyone keeps telling me they couldn't find it.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6461.0.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-zJNWT1Nu8
Crap video, sorry. The next move would be to top, but it's tricky.
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On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.
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On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.
7b+ i think.
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5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
Mick Adams, no harder if not easier but poorer? its on here somewhere..
7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade
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Well its trivial from stood so the dawes association and several guides would suggst yes. I think i've done it but my memory is poor. squirmy 7b?
8. Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
Three hundred pounds of musclin' man. 7c+
9. Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s aręte. Name, grade?
10. Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11. Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?
18. Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
Pete Robbins. Desperate. Suffice to say its harder than sole power and crux is higher. 7c but at the top end
20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?
7a/7a+ ?(stock answer. ono)
21. SS to Westworld. Grade?
Lord spare us from this drivel. It shouldn't get an upgrade if only to discourage this kind of behaviour.
23. Harry’s Hole. Grade?
7a+? What does it get in Burbage & beyond? Terrible landing.
25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
I daresay its doable at 7b+/ 7c, if you can reach.
27. Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
indeed. Not a 7. 6b? Easier and similar scare factor than toit de chien...
28. Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
Ie without pocket on right. Not so bad, just blind - 7a, poss 7a+
30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
Couldn't do it t'other day, but then I've failed with pebble too. 7b minimum
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harry's hole is V5 E2 6b in burbage guide. not done it.
kim has done the joe's slab; sure he could offer a grade.
sweet thing should be retired from active service.
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Joe's slab.
The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.
Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?
Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.
Just to clarify - the right-hand prob I'm on about above is the one right of joe's slab. The two left of Joe's I've called the mono-seam prob and the left-hand prob.
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For the moment I'm trying to include everything, no matter how log/trivial/trashed. The list can get whittled down later if needed.
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if you want to get everything in, make sure you've got the problem in the cave at RHS, starts as for the problem out fo the back to the blobs, but goes up to a crimp on the left lip and slaps for the fninshing jug - basically you're eliminating the right hand edge of the cave. its very good, probably 7a+.
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For the moment I'm trying to include everything, no matter how log/trivial/trashed. The list can get whittled down later if needed.
What is worthless to one person can be very worthwhile for another, and if more problems (of any quality) are widely known about, they should ease the pressure on disintegrating classics a bit.
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if you want to get everything in, make sure you've got the problem in the cave at RHS, starts as for the problem out fo the back to the blobs, but goes up to a crimp on the left lip and slaps for the fninshing jug - basically you're eliminating the right hand edge of the cave. its very good, probably 7a+.
Remember seeing that on a vid. Here it is, at 1:57
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZKnHOpFWyc
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nice - lets also make it clear in the list that its bad form to use the incut chip on the lip of the normal cave problem.
another problem (and to seem no doubt hyocritical given what i've just written above) - breakfast arete, climb it till you've got RH on the first good seam on the left of the arete as a backhand, clamp feet round the arete and go round left, aiming for those massive old chips on the face. nice problem and probably worth a 7.
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nice - lets also make it clear in the list that its bad form to use the incut chip on the lip of the normal cave problem.
Nah. why make it into an eliminate when it doesn't need to be one to be a good problem.
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when you've got all those lovely natural shapes (those pods and blobs are pretty unique) and slopers its just a shame to use a fucking chipped incut, especially when its no harder to use the natural stuff. its probably a good problem with the chip, but a great problem without.
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Yeah a good warmup eh Andy? :whistle:
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I've done that weird thing at Bell hagg but it was years ago, only took a few goes, not very hard and a little pointless. It was nowhere near as hard as it was graded but wouldn't like to guess a grade as really can't remember but think B10 was way off. Sorry I guess that doesn't help much
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On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.
Yeah, bottom end 7b+. But it doesn't use the jug on the arete at this grade. Good problem
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1. Old problem from PBG – Traverse on the Bus Stop Mantel block – anyone done it? Grade?
2. SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
3. Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
4. SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
6. 5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?
7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?
8. Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
9. Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s aręte. Name, grade?
10. Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11. Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?
12. I vaguely recall that the aręte below Gaia has been bouldered out on it’s right side. Name, grade?
13. Two probs listed in BMC script for Birchen – Chasing The Dragon 7c/+ and Mermaid – 7c. Anyone know who did them or can confirm grade??
14. The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
15. Has the Veale Thing been climbed on it’s right side? Name, grade?
16. On the right side of Tody’s Playground there is one hardish problem (might be eliminate). Grade?
17. On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s aręte, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
18. Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
19. Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?
21. SS to Westworld. Grade?
22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
23. Harry’s Hole. Grade?
24. Extended Rim Traverse and SS aręte on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
26. Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
27. Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
28. Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
29. Si Weill did a new prob up the gully behind Low Rider. Name, grade?
30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
31. As Dave says, does Joe's Slab traverse go with hands or feet at the change of angle, or have both been done. What are the grades either way?
32. Cave Creation at Bell Hagg (B10 in PBG). Anyone done, grade?
Cheers a million
Not bad, getting there. I've found a whole load more mysteries in the meantime, but they'll have to wait till monday.
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I agree that it would be better if the chip wasn't there but, as you say, it is still a good problem. I can think of lots of problems that would be better if they were slightly different, but to add rules to problems that are already good is really just a bit of fun for those who like to make up eliminates.
It's a good problem with the chip and a needless eliminate without (which can still be fun, but is not the main problem really).
Yeah a good warmup eh Andy? :whistle:
Compared to Grizzley Arete this was very much a warm up!
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Anyone done McThud? Justin Crichlow's sit start offwidth crack thing at Eagle Tor, given V9.
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The problem left of Jerry's Arete at RHS is more realistically 7b. It's OK in good nick, with both moves being pretty brown.
Also for the new BMC guide, I'm only describing two problems in the cave. The thing dave describes because it's the best thing there and not really eliminate, just a 'tight line', to use the parlance of our times. And the arete using everything.
Feedback/objections welcomed etc.
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Anyone done McThud? Justin Crichlow's sit start offwidth crack thing at Eagle Tor, given V9.
Have you tried asking round the office?
That's if, of course, you mean this:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,182.0.html
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Also for the new BMC guide, I'm only describing two problems in the cave. The thing dave describes because it's the best thing there and not really eliminate, just a 'tight line', to use the parlance of our times. And the arete using everything.
Feedback/objections welcomed etc.
The true arete of the cave (to the right of the 7a) is a good problem at about V4.
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20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?
7a/7a+ ?(stock answer. ono)
Direct up the arete seems miles harder than traversing in from the left on this prob to me. Can't be 7a or I'm doing something perversely wrong. In my tiny world I'd like it to be 7b! :please:
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7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?
I've climbed this a few times in the past and think Andy Jennings has done it as well Its a fustrating but enjoyable squirm up on a scary heel hook which then makes the top harder. I'd say i agree with the 7b mentioned on here.
25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
I can make the reach on this and have climbed it a couple of times i'd say 7b+ is fair (if you can reach)
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Joe's slab.
The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.
Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?
Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.
Just to clarify - the right-hand prob I'm on about above is the one right of joe's slab. The two left of Joe's I've called the mono-seam prob and the left-hand prob.
Would agree with 7b+ for the mono-seam prob - not been able to do it again since I did it in VERY stiff boots with a big rockover. The one just to the right maybe 6c+. I think this is the squeezed in one as you have to avoid reaching to the big hold on joe's. Once you've pulled on to the monoseam prob it's hard to stray offline! Traverse with feet maybe 7a, the last couple of moves are tricky. Never got anywhere with hands though.
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I'm a bit confused by your reply Kim.
As I understand it left to right on joes slab there is:
The mantley arete not a 7
The hard high rockover crimp prob - 7b/+
The Monoseam problem - possibly bottom end 7a but a bit squeezed in
Joes Original with various eliminates not a 7....
The right hand slab - squeezed in again and not a 7
I think you have refered to the crimpy rockover prob as the monoseam? If so I agree with you.
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22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel.
Agreed, did this yesterday and its pretty tricky so I guess 7a fits, tis quite a long way to the crimp and even further to top. Quite a nice wee problem although with a rather dangerous feel...
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Would agree with 7b+ for the mono-seam prob - not been able to do it again since I did it in VERY stiff boots with a big rockover. The one just to the right maybe 6c+. I think this is the squeezed in one as you have to avoid reaching to the big hold on joe's. Once you've pulled on to the monoseam prob it's hard to stray offline!
As Nik says, I'd agree entirely with this if you hadn't mixed the names up. Clearly my attempt to clarify wasn't clear enough.
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So the low traverse of this slab, with hands on the holds and feet just above ground level - any grade suggestions for this? I tried it briefly and did most of the moves, but thought it would be a lot of effort for a 7a tick, which is what I thought it was supposed to be. (Sandbags either beguile me or rile me...)
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Its given 6c+/ 9 in the old Peak Bouldering Guide which I think equates to Font 7a+/7b - I have only done the higher foot-traverse version but briefly tried the lower traverse. I wouldn't argue with 7a+!
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22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel. I did it at the same time as dave and i'm sure it took us a few goes.
I'd agree with this although this is a pretty poor problem
That wall left of sole power, Pete made it look absolutely nails. I seem to remember there wasn't a lack of talent about that day either and no one else got close.
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another problem (and to seem no doubt hyocritical given what i've just written above) - breakfast arete, climb it till you've got RH on the first good seam on the left of the arete as a backhand, clamp feet round the arete and go round left, aiming for those massive old chips on the face. nice problem and probably worth a 7.
Awesome problem anyway you do it.
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The problem right of Pooh was first done by Mick without the heel and with the crimp I think, hence the grade.
Sitter to Westworld was done by Welford, can't remember whether he thought it added a grade. I'd say that without further info, if it's going in your list at hard 7c+ the sitter should be 8a. If it's going in at easy 8a, then the sitter is also 8a. Etc.
I've done Bentleys since the pebble broke, and thought whatever grade I gave it in the guide.
Pockety SS thing left of Boeing: is this not in the guide?? Will check later. 7a ish, maybe easier.
For my money Sweet Thing is still at least 8a from the sitter. Maybe being bigger helps.
I've got some info on the stuff at Birchens somewhere for a chapter of the guide that didn't make it. I think Mermaid is a low traverse on the right of the edge by Mark Reeve? Or maybe I'm getting confused. I'll look later when I have more time.
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Cheers.
Some crags I did refering to guide and some from memory. I didn't have the guide with me at work all last week though.
What's the deal with the slab left of Talk To Me Martin given B9 in an old bouldering guide? Mythical non-entity?
Looked at the Bus Stop Mantel traverse as described in the PBG on Sunday. It looks a bit holdless right of BSM and has no obvious exit point. I'm assuming it was misdescribed unless someone knows better. What was better was a r-l trav starting on the BSM holds and manteling at the arete. I did most of it at end of day but was too tired to judge difficulty. My best guess being 7a, anyone done this (it was chalked)?
Also at Rowtor. Does the breakage of the big crimp on 'the crimpy sitter' affect Dissolution (not that anyone climbed it in years judging by the green)?
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A few I’d like second (or first) opinions on grade:
• Dissolution – 7b?
• Flake to top dyno on aręte near Druid Pub (Rowtor) – 7a?
• Hang ‘em High (Rowtor) – 7a?
• Percy’s Low Prow Thing on ridge halfway between Domes and My Apple - ?
• Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
• Super Thin slab/wall on west side of Boysen’s Crack boulder. 7a in guide, this must be graded for using holds on the right. Anyone (Uptowngirl?) done the direct version, seems 7b/+ ballpark?
• Mona and thing to left (Eagle tor)?
• One for Andy Harris. Didn’t you do a line going rightwards through that low roof at Gardom’s North (the one with low mantle on front). Grade, name?
• Mysterious traverse into Bullworker mentioned in PBG - ???
• Unfamiliar SS. Is this a confirmed prob yet? – Grade?
• Left Spur? Andy B? Anyone else? Does it start low as described still? If so seems hard at given grade.
• Boulder Club (Rivelin). Font grade anyone?
That’ll do for starters.
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• Flake to top dyno on aręte near Druid Pub (Rowtor) – 7a?
I haven't done it, but I tried it a couple of years ago and it's certainly no easier than 7a, if that helps.
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Dissolution: I think 7b.
I've not done Mona but the small sitter thing to the left is 7c, might be a bit harder, I did it a long time ago.
Bullworker trav: tricky, 7c? Andy Harris has done it too.
I came to the conclusion that the problem left of Talk to me Martin was a non entity.
Unfamiliar sit start: I honestly can't remember whether I did this or whether Jon Barton did whilst guide checking. I have a feeling that we both did. Whichever, the guide grade wasn't just a guess. I need to check my notes if I can locate them.
Left Spur: I did this whilst guide checking. Again, need to check my notes from the time.
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Great stuff.
Was only unsure about Unfamiliar due to wording of description in guide.
Likewise with Left Spur which mentions pulling on a pebble that no longer exists. Would love to see how this is done at less than 7c from low flake.
If you could let me know of any random 7s that didn't make the mark for your guide, that'd be great
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Indeed - you gave Unfamiliar sit 7a+, then described it as 'more a rumour than a problem'. I took this to mean it was a rumour, though I'm now thinking you meant the quality/ difficulty of the problem was low compared to its mythical status. Question?
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It was initially thought to have been done at 7c but we couldnt find anyone that would admit to the first ascent or indeed knew anything about it. Jon and I then went and had a session on it and I think one or the other or both did it, and thought it quite easy in comparison to what we expected. However I'm now being a little hesitant as I can't remember the exact details.
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• Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
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I did this a while back but think I bottled the true line at the top by beetling off to the left at about 15 foot up, which was still scary. Found it quite hard and weird getting off the ground. Wouldn't say no to 7a but the direct looks about E4!
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• Left Spur? Andy B? Anyone else? Does it start low as described still? If so seems hard at given grade.
Yep it still starts from sitting. I did it in a few goes and didn't think it was too bad for 7a at the time, but it does involve a very high foot up and rock over, which is how I try to climb everything, so the grade could be a fair bit harder really. Especially as not many people seem to get it done. 7b? I thought it was easier than Bentleys which is probably hard 7b+, so no more than that.
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As left leg rockovers go it felt harder than the Storm to me, but I was probably being a flid. I'll stick it in at 7b
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Forgot about left spur. I thought it was whatever grade I gave in the guide but couldn't find anyone else that had done it at the time. I too tend to climb by way of the high rickover so it could be harder. I wouldn't disagree with 7b from low.
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• Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
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I did this a while back but think I bottled the true line at the top by beetling off to the left at about 15 foot up, which was still scary. Found it quite hard and weird getting off the ground. Wouldn't say no to 7a but the direct looks about E4!
The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.
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I tend to agree, even though I've not done it. The actual climbing looks easier than say Beauty which doesn't make it into the sevens
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Here's another one - Tommy (of All Elements fame) did a new 7b thing at Burbage South a couple of months ago, which I don't think he reported on the forums. I can't really remember what he said - possibly it starts up Definitive 5.11 then traverses left, but I could be talking nonsense. He's in NZ right now, so can't provide details, but apparently he put them in the Hathersage new route book.
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The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.
I mean left obviously. Always found left and right confusing.
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What about "up" and "down"?
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As left leg rockovers go it felt harder than the Storm to me, but I was probably being a flid. I'll stick it in at 7b
True, it took me two more goes to do Left Spur than it did to do The Storm, but I reckon I could do Left Spur more consistently than The Storm.
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The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.
Yes perhaps the difficulties on this one are more in the mind...maybe best left in the sixes.
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have you got some of the obscure stuff on there like Huffy's problem Tolerance near Bell Hagg? Think it's 7b+.
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Never heard of it. Assuming you aren't shitting me, what are the details?
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What about the Boulder in between RHS/Cratcliffe, and Stanton Moor, that has some Ard moves, no? whats it called again???
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The Andle stone? He'll have that.
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Never heard of it. Assuming you aren't shitting me, what are the details?
it's on a boulder near hallamshire golf course. SS up a wall with some sharp crimps that require pain 'tolerance'.
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I remember now!
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The Andle Stone,,, what joy!, tell BoyToy that the name of my unrepeated 3 *** highball boulder problem is... Spook, and its "Ard" 6B, or 7A to Eurocentrics.
Or V6.
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Cheers yoot. Is that the wall left of the sharp arete?
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yeah, the one round to the left from the rungs with the breaks and the heightist topout
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That's what i'm talking about!
Has anyone done the two B7s at Carrhead Rocks mentioned in PBG? Grade?
Done the left hand one afterbirth ? many years ago may be 7a, the right hand version seemed a fair
bit harder I never managed that.
You'll have to pay a visit, was a chilled out venue after work on a summers evening but conditions
were not optimal then.
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You got this one?
Pebble Mill Stem, 7b, FA Andy Sainsbury
High right to left traverse of the pebble mill wall, with feet on the PMT handholds. Finish up the arete problem.
Much better than PMT, and definitely a new line, rather than an eliminate. Andy beat me to the FA. I would have called it Bridge Over Pebbled Wander. Maybe it's a good job he beat me. ...Better than PMT would have been a good name too.
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Just asked Polish Dave if he knew of owt.
He says he did the left arete of Boyager with a big leap for the jug, sometime in 2000. He thought 7b/+ at the time.
He also did a couple of other problems on a steep boulder near there. One going up left and one up right. He can't remember the grades, but they might be 7's.
At Eagle Tor, the arete left of No Mercy he says is possibly 7a from a sitter, but quite reachy. Dave didn't top it out as Kristian Klemmow had been working it, so he didn't want to steal it. But Kristian didnt manage it, so I'd be surprised if it was 7a.
He also expressed confusion at the description of the problem left of Mona. Guidebook says "from low finger dishes campus up the wall to the left". Dave remembers trying a sitter from two crimps to hit a break. Ths was a few metres left of Mona. Possibly a different problem than the one in the guide? Anyway, this was also Kristian's project, but Dave doesn't think he ever did it. Don't think Dave did it either.
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Cheers r-man. Have already got the arete left of No Mercy on the list (assuming we are thinking of the same thing), although not from sitting and 7a+. It is very reach dependant and right on my limit which is my excuse for the higher grade. I'm surprised he thought 7a from sitting.
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He also expressed confusion at the description of the problem left of Mona. Guidebook says "from low finger dishes campus up the wall to the left". Dave remembers trying a sitter from two crimps to hit a break. Ths was a few metres left of Mona. Possibly a different problem than the one in the guide? Anyway, this was also Kristian's project, but Dave doesn't think he ever did it. Don't think Dave did it either.
This is the same thing. The crimps are the "low finger dishes" I describe. The break is quite thin and is basically just another crimp. I did it by pulling on from sitting and campussing footless to the break, hence the description. I was first shown it by Percy, who described it as Kristian's project. I did it quite quickly, but also didn't top out as I had only been shown it on the basis that it was a project. I went back afterwards and did the full thing, so if Kristian never completed it then I probably did the FA. Although I thought it was 7c when I did it, it might be quite hard - I was good at campussing up small crimps back then and didn't have much grading knowledge. However, it's now about 6 years ago so I can't remember.
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Have you got the problems on the Sheepfold buttress under Higgar?
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Dave just sent me details of some other stuff he remembered:
- at White edge
White Lightning
7b
Dawid Skoczylas, Ian Farrar
Winter 06/07
The roof from behind: far right sit start then traverse to left, then get into roof – a few moves to reach starting holds of diamond white left hand and follow it to the top. All in all a great problem and quite a line.
- at Hampers hang.
Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas
On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.
Zaff(it was his old project) was spotting me and Alex Etkinson took some pics. Was just a few months before Grimer's Stanage guide came out.
- at Burbage North (this is the one mentioned earlier)
Lefthand Ride
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas
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Alex sent me the pics of the Hampers Hang problem. I never got any details of it, and when I saw I thought it was Shatner's Bassoon.
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Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.
Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas
On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.
This is the same as Shatner's Bassoon (see Stanage guide). We (me an Kim T)must have found an easier sequence as I graded it 7a. Seem to remember a bomber heel-toe and using the side-pull as a gaston. Not bad, but spoilled a bit by the crux being not hitting the block behind you when you release feet.
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Are you aware of Primal light, the traverse of the cave rt of Rollin Pat, 7A.com
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I had got something down, a diagonal prob starting on the right side of Rollin Pat and going up and right. Didn't have a grade for it. Is that English 7a, it can't be as easy as font 7a surely?
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I spoke to you about this a while ago Jon I think you said at the time that the arete formed by rollin pat was used for the left hand and the obvious sidepull edge thing for your right (am I getting this correct I could be confused?), I couldn't span between the arete and the hold so ended up doing a big hard slap after some subtle climbing to get into the correct position, the boulder behind needed a mat to stop you braining yourself on failure. It's not 7a that way (if you're my height I can't see it going the other way).
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That's a different problem again, My Lemon, Kim gave this 7b+ but I think 7c more likely for average height. Pat's on about something starting at the same point but going right.
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interesting, finishing where exactly? (out of interest)
I reckon your guess of 7c is probably quite accurate for 'My Lemon', it's a hard move.
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Cheers r-man. Have already got the arete left of No Mercy on the list (assuming we are thinking of the same thing), although not from sitting and 7a+. It is very reach dependant and right on my limit which is my excuse for the higher grade. I'm surprised he thought 7a from sitting.
I double-checked and he did do it from sitting. When Dave said it was reachy though, he meant for other people. So if it's a reach problem, take 7a with a pinch of salt (one offered to you by a large arm extended from impossibly far away).
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Maybe you've got these already, but...
Burbage West (guidebook refs "Peak Bouldering - Fax09", Gritstone)
3a PB
Eastworld to Westworld 7a+
Edd Klimas , Jerome Foster 26/Jun/05
From a sit down start on the grass by the nose of a flat boulder right of the arete pull up and traverse the upper of two low breaks finishing on a finger slot left of westworld.(also has been done with a small extension far right of the flat boulder just above a hollow in the ground using a series of heel hooks and toe hooks,easier for small climbers).
8a PB
Parallel Lines 7a
Edd Klimas, Jerome Foster 25/Sep/05
From a sit-down start right in the corner beneath the roof of the nose,pull up off the obvious starting jug into a small crimp where the roof joins the wall( big roof undercut not allowed at this grade ). Traverse the break on crimps left round the arete and follow the centre break line on slopes and crimps to the left arete, step up and traverse right along the upper break on more slopes and crimps to the nose. Mantle the nose and top out to finish. (no mantle, no tick).
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That second one in particular is pretty 'concept'!
On EtW when it say finish at slot left of westworld does this mean jump off or top-out, any idea?
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Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.
Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas
On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.
This is the same as Shatner's Bassoon (see Stanage guide). We (me an Kim T)must have found an easier sequence as I graded it 7a. Seem to remember a bomber heel-toe and using the side-pull as a gaston. Not bad, but spoilled a bit by the crux being not hitting the block behind you when you release feet.
me and banks (and scouse?) did what we thought was shatners which started in the back corner, traversed the break to the left arete then spanned out to the flared crack at the lip of the roof. is this not shatners then? i'm confused.co.ck.
(http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/andy_shatner.jpg)
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On EtW when it say finish at slot left of westworld does this mean jump off or top-out, any idea?
No idea. I just noticed these problems whilst searching for something else. I've sent Edd Klimas a message through ukc though...
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Dave - Nice shot. We didn't do any traversing, just went straight into the roof bit from below (from standing, but have done the SS bit before, it might add half a grade). We finished up the wall right of the crack after the cutloose, but this seem too contrived to include in the description for guide. I'll give you the tick
r-man - Thanks
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so right of the back corner crack then?
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Yes. Had to make a move to gain the break if I remember right
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Does anyone disagree with 7c for Back in the YMCA? I know I don't.
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I'd upped it to 7b+ already. Mawson has put it down as hard 7b+ on his scorecard. Any more opinions?
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Does anyone disagree with 7c for Back in the YMCA? I know I don't.
The only person I've seen do it is Smitton. He said it was easy for 7a+ as I recall. So yes, 7c.
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7c, out of interest do most people start this from the 'floor' or the block and lean in? leaning in feels a tad easier if i remember correctly.
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Leaning in is easier, starting off the ground adds a 5b move. Your choice - I slept fine following an ascent from the block.
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following an ascent from the block.
no comment.
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(http://jcnot4me.com/images/pot_calls_kettle_black.bmp)
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The problem is disgusting as it is, there's no point prolonging it. Just get the tick as quick as possible, and move on with your life. Now if it was good, flowing climbing, I'd be looking to extend it, of course. But it ain't. Play to your own parameters people.
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Hilarious. ;D
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It kind of goes without saying that I thought 7a+ for YMCA, but Rob Barker also thought 7a+ when I did it with him.
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That's absolute nonsense - its taken me years, including a session with Gaz Parry and Andy Earl who also failed. To quote Gaz on another problem nearby '7c+s don't take me three visits'. Despite it just being dirty pulling on shit pockets, whish should be right up Earl's street. Ban this filth I say.
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Sorry, make that I thought 7b, I think it was Rob that suggested 7a+. So there you go, it's not the first grade I've got wrong. Also it's worth considering that if Rob was a god, the whole world would be made of shallow pockets.
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I think it's a lovely problem, and it definitely starts from the floor without the block. 7a
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good to see someone sticking their neck on the line and offering an english grade. good job banksy. ;)
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There are only two english 7a moves, and one of them is Bus Stop Mantel
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(http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/andy_shatner.jpg)
I'm so pretty.
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I think we nearly did what might be shatners basoon, started in the corner of the cave where the start of hampers hang is(?), up and out up the roof, then traversed left along break into the easy warm up problem. needless to say I fell of on the move going into the easy problem and was too pumped/lazy to bother again
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I think Shatners Bassoon finishes on the higher break. What you describe is the extension finish for a (hard won) extra grade.
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Was up at burbage Nth last night and climbed a problem I hadn't done for years.
Up behind and right of Zaf Sckoridsfommsdsoms are some small butresses. There is a dyno there for a smallish pocket above a small 'roof'(described in the rockfax guide) which got B8. This is still deffo a 7a.
Just below this (on the wall left of the dyno)I did a decent sit start problem up a faint rib at 7a also (though it was mucky and no doubt done before). Starting sitting on RH slot and LH small sloper, up LH to good pocket. Rock out right to slopey break. Rock LH to top. Top out direct.
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Have got the dyno in at 7a.
Think I might have done the one you describe, many moons ago on a wet day when it was just about the only dry bit (but could be thinking of something totally different). Is it on a slanting southface bit of rock above sloping ground? Will put it in thus: Faint Rib SS left of Pocket Dyno - 7a.
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That's the one. Funnily enough that's the name I was going to use.
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Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.
There are 4 problems there. Right to left they are:
Here Be Dragons. From under the roof climb up to the huge hueco on the lip. FA: Mark Hundleby. Font 6c, maybe harder.
Sean Penn. Straight up the middle of the buttress. FA: John Welford. Font 7a, almost certainly harder.
Just Walkin'. The left side of the front of the buttress to a hueco over the lip. FA: Jon Barton. Font 7a.
[Name unknown] Through the overlap left of Just Walkin'. Scrittly and neighbouring buttress a bit too close for comfort. FA: John Welford. Font 7a+ says John.
The first three problems above are really good if they're clean. Go on, someone repeat them. HBD could be 7a as well. It's hard to tell as it's pretty committing;
(http://apeindex.com/images/HereBeDragons-Jon.jpg)
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Doesn't look like a dragon to me. Could it be a tibetan spaniel?
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"Here Be Funny Looking Little Dogs" has a certain ring to it.
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Didn't realise there was that much there. Will certainly go check them out. All duly added to list.
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Doesn't look like a dragon to me. Could it be a tibetan spaniel?
try further afield.
(http://people.brandeis.edu/~rstewart/ewok.jpg)
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don't know about giving big air a font grade. the jump bit's the easy/non-scary/relatively safe bit. if you come off the top moves you're gona hurt urself to shit...
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Three or four pads and its fine. Not sure its a seven though...
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Have seen folk take semi-contolled lobs off the top move and land fine
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(http://www.apeindex.com/images/SheepFoldLines.jpg)
Blue - [Name unknown] Through the overlap left of Just Walkin'. Scrittly and neighbouring buttress a bit too close for comfort. FA: John Welford. Font 7a+ says John.
Green - Just Walkin'. The left side of the front of the buttress to a hueco over the lip. FA: Jon Barton. Font 7a.
Yellow - Sean Penn. Straight up the middle of the buttress. FA: John Welford. Font 7a, almost certainly harder.
Red - Here Be Dragons. From under the roof climb up to the huge hueco on the lip. FA: Mark Hundleby. Font 6c, maybe harder.
HBD could be 7a as well. It's hard to tell as it's pretty committing.
Thought it might be worth reposting your pic. I'd like to try these sometime - where exactly is this though?
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Three or four pads and its fine. Not sure its a seven though...
Right u are. Spose it must be alrite if one can fall off the top. I shat my pants when i did it :'(
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Thought it might be worth reposting your pic. I'd like to try these sometime - where exactly is this though?
Good thinking. I'd forgotten that I'd ever posted the photo. The sheepfold is underneath Higgar. If you stand under the main wall at Higgar, i.e. under the Rasp, then there's an obvious area down to your left enclosed by a stone wall. That's the sheepfold. The buttress is 50 metres or so to its left.
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Good thinking. I'd forgotten that I'd ever posted the photo. The sheepfold is underneath Higgar. If you stand under the main wall at Higgar, i.e. under the Rasp, then there's an obvious area down to your left enclosed by a stone wall. That's the sheepfold. The buttress is 50 metres or so to its left.
Isn't that the one thats mentioned as providing worthwhile entertainment in the Froggart 1991 guide but then disparaged in the RockFax Peak Bouldering Guide?
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That's the way it goes. If something gets a good write up, and it's average, then someone will go along and be disappointed. They will then write this in the guide. Then someone will go along expecting to be disappointed, and find it, and be pleasantly surprised. They will then write this down, and the next people will be disappointed again.
That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.
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And it goes back and forth
And back and forth, you known
Never...
Never...
Land...
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That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.
How do you square that with Dense?
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1. "All the happiest people expect everything to be shit" can be shown to be true empirically.
2. 1 does not necessarily imply that "all people who expect everything to be shit are happy".
3. it can be true that "All the happiest people expect everything to be shit" and "there are some people who expect everything to be shit who are not happy"
Ludwig Wittgenstein, Philosophy of Bouldering and The Problem of Grades 1948
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That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.
How do you square that with Dense?
Ah, subtley different. He knows everything is shit.
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I think that syllogism (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sylogism) needs some refinement lagers. You need two premises and one conclusion.
Major : All the happiest people expect everything to be shit
Minor : Not everything is shit
Conclusion : Some people will be happiest
But then maybe I need to read Wittgenstein's full treatise (and formal logic has never been a strong point of mine).
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Great minds Johnny, great minds...
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Got a reply from Edd about EtW
Ok mate, hope following info helps you guys, Eastworld to Westworld is a low
level traverse of the Westworld block following the thin crimpy seam from
the flat slabby block on the floor round the aręte, see the photo's attached
to show the start, toe hook and heel hook and follow the crimps and slopes
to the aręte, get yourself round the aręte and follow the seam to a crimp at
the start of Westworld, then just jump off with your feet a couple of inches
of the deck or continue in to Westworld (now that would be a problem and a
half !!)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/2344556021_460f8cdd59.jpg?v=0)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/2344536395_804e62b049.jpg)
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I don't think this is worth including.
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When the description said easier for small climbers it wasn't kidding.
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this looks to be on a par with WSS sitter to be filed in the "shit to be left out of lists and guides that frankly we don't care about future generations reclaiming every few years, thay've got to learn somehow" drawer.
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this looks to be on a par with WSS sitter to be filed in the "shit to be left out of lists and guides that frankly we don't care about future generations reclaiming every few years, thay've got to learn somehow" drawer.
Word.
It actually makes me feel faintly nauseous looking at those photos and thinking that someone might consider this to be a valid addition to gritstone bouldering.
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Just wondering if you had room for one more on your list - it's a traverse at Cratcliffe - above T-Crack - there is a problem in new and old guides at 7a/B8 (I think) - traverse left to right on low boulder - finish in scoop. I did the lower traverse on small crimps below it to same finish probably 4 years ago (not sure if I was first) - I reckon about 7c ish. Be good if it got a mention. Thanks.
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Is that a low version of Tit Traverse?
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No its before you come to the tit traverse - about 1/2 way between tit.trav and t-crack - under a tree. really nice (if a little painful) moves.
the original - ss and climb mini rounded arete to a break just below top of boulder and then traverse right to a scoop which you press out.
the other version climbs rounded arete 1/2 way and then traverse on v.small crimps - wicked last move.
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The higher version is pretty cool and is in Ru's guide I think and is just about worth 7a, although the first moves seem to cause taller climbers problems (with the high left heel an' all). The lower version seems a little contrived but I haven't really tried it so I can't really comment to be fair.
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No its before you come to the tit traverse - about 1/2 way between tit.trav and t-crack - under a tree. really nice (if a little painful) moves.
the original - ss and climb mini rounded arete to a break just below top of boulder and then traverse right to a scoop which you press out.
the other version climbs rounded arete 1/2 way and then traverse on v.small crimps - wicked last move.
I haven't tried this, but I have seen it and have been meaning to try it. I think that it looks like a good obvious eliminate, and worth including. I would have guessed that it was quite hard for 7c, but you can never tell just by looking.
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but you can never tell just by looking.
tsk,tsk Andy, you can always tell by just looking
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How about the rising leftward diagonal on The Dog boulder at Burbage South. Start sitting as for "Pockets and Edges" (P59, Burbage and Beyond) and climb leftwards to finish up problem 28 (P60, Ru and Jon's book). It's mentioned as an eliminate in Burbage and Beyond but not given a grade; I thought 7b (though I did have tape on 3 fingers at the time) with more independent moves than you might imagine.
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Yeah would be good to find somebody else that has climbed the traverse at Cratcliffe as I have no real idea of the grade (and also if anybody did it before me!).
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Another email from Ed, he reckons Parallel Lines is easier than he first thought, so not a 7.
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You got this one?
Pebble Mill Stem, 7b, FA Andy Sainsbury
High right to left traverse of the pebble mill wall, with feet on the PMT handholds. Finish up the arete problem.
Much better than PMT, and definitely a new line, rather than an eliminate. Andy beat me to the FA. I would have called it Bridge Over Pebbled Wander. Maybe it's a good job he beat me. ...Better than PMT would have been a good name too.
bunch of us did this today. good prob. 7a/+?
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it is good. dunno if its claimable since its the easiest way to reverse of pebble mill traverse into the arete, hence probably a "done years ago" thing. there's a vid on the moon site of ben moon reversing the traverse into the arete from a few years back, although he drops low to the break.
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I doubt it was done years ago. The moves are less obvious and its more powerful. The reverse of PMT into the arete was always the line that people tried, because it was daftly graded at 7c.
I thought solid 7a+ for the high line. Harder than PMT for most of the group I was there with.
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I don't know, it seems pretty obvious to me, its exactly how i tried reversing the traverse into arete a few years ago, though only having 1 mat foiled me. at the end of the day its the easiest way of crossing the scoop to climb up the arete, same line, same holds, same problem, albeit a different sequence and probably badly graded in the bmc guide. i don't think we should get into this habbit of naming different sequences on the same problem as individual lines.
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Uh? High traverse and low traverse seem like pretty seperate problems to me. I don't think this is a radical concept, the peak is full of such things. Anyway, who cares, the lime has been called...
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Hi bonjoy,
Interesting list. A few personal comments:
Cave Left Hand 7a+ - think this should be 7a (and easy at that), assuming it's the natural line that takes the left most blobs to the big sloper and chip on the lip.
Rolling Pat 7a+ - agree with upgrade, tried briefly, felt nails.
Soft On The G 7b - haven't tried but talked to enough people and it seems like it was hard for 7a+ so maybe this is right. Could be V in the grade?
Bin Laden's Cave 7a - agree with downgrade.
Sidetrack 7a - think this should be ^ in the grade. Seems very morpho.
Steep Arete Sitter 7a - think this should be V in the grade or even not 7a. I might have got lucky tho.
Triangle Block 7a - if this is the detatched overhanging face just down from the edge, then tentatively agree with upgrade but could be V in the grade.
Breakfast 7a - think this is 6c+ (whatever V5 is anyway), at the very least V in the grade.
The Nose 7a - think this could be 7a+ if you can't reach to the good sloper.
Satin 7a - nowhere near 7a, very easy moves with massive holds for a grit slab (6c/6c+ (whatever V4/5 is) maybe), just (!).
K Kole Arete 7a - not sure about this, felt very easy IIRC, maybe vaguely eliminate.
Several other classic 7as I agree with BTW.
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Sidetrack 7a - think this should be ^ in the grade. Seems very morpho.
If you do it without the footledge it's a much better problem, as you are forced to start low, and the grade doesn't depend so much on how long your arms are. 7a+ this way.
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is "cave left hand" not the better eliminat thing that gets the blobs, gets a crimp on the left hand lip with left hand then slaps for the jug, i.e. you miss out the right lip of the cave entirely?
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No, I just looked. That's down as Cave Prob Left eliminate.
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the cave problem that traverses right into the lip isn't really any harder than the lip problem, infact its a bit of a non-problem anyway. i'd give it the same as whatever the lip problem gets.
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Wotever I did followed the obvious left hand line / features. Classic line of blobs / least resistance. Dunno about anything else.
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where is the full list located?
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http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files)
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ta