UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Andy Harris on March 02, 2008, 07:01:21 pm
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Rowtor Rocks was very busy today with people trying to escape the wind. I managed what I think are 2 new problems and a couple of things/eliminates that are well worth putting into your circuit.
1st up and I'm over the moon with this ;D is the runnel on the wall left of Yoghurt Hypnotist. Make a few easy yards along the gutter, take a quarter digit 3 finger crimp with your RH and do an enormous rock over on your left heel to the sloper runnel at the top. A 3* classic weighing in at 7c or 7c+. This really is an amazing move and certainly one of the best things i've done on grit. Name to foolow.
Secondly managed a sit start to problem 17. Start sitting on the slopey shelf on the long sidepull, LH up to the obvious crimp, make a cool move to the obvious pinch, cutloose, right foot high and pop in to the standup. Very fingery. 7b+
And then a couple of things which are well worth doing:
A direct finish to short seans reachy roof missing out all the big holds. Start as for SSRR, match the 2 pockets, cutloose, left heel round the lip, big move directly up to poor sloper, hard match and mantle. 7b.
Between Quine & problem 17 is a cave with a big crack in it. Yard along the crack on jams until you can rech a runnel with your right hand, pull round the roof with fear (and a good spot) and grab a tussock of grass to top out. Sounds crappy but really quite good. 6c+ or so
enjoy!
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foolow sounds like a good name
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Nice one aurthur (not mini cowboyhat), any pics?
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Nice! 7c/+ sounds cool
A direct finish to short seans reachy roof missing out all the big holds. Start as for SSRR, match the 2 pockets, cutloose, left heel round the lip, big move directly up to poor sloper, hard match and mantle. 7b.
Think this has been done before. I've done it and I assumed someone else had
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Nice one Arris. Pics to come?
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Nice one Andy, that thing left of yoghurt hypnotist looked and felt desperate!
Not convinced about 7b for the left finish to Sean's though. My lot all thought it felt much harder than Blood Falls and YH (ie. we got nowhere with it).
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seb got a few photos of the runnel but is away for 2 weeks. maybe i can get someone to come out next wend and take a few.
never uploaded anything to youtube so here goes
short seans direct top bit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Qvtec-ZHP8
sit start problem 17
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueViPobRdtU
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that obviously didn't work. i clicked the youtube icon and pasted the embedded bit in the middle.
any suggestions
might have to wait till tomorrow as i need my beauty sleep
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Ignore the embed box that youtube gives. Copy the bit at the end of the address, everything after the =
So for this (random rowtor clip)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-NmrU33v0N4
just paste the end, select, then use the youtube button up there /\
you then have NmrU33v0N4 surrounded by the youtube brackets
so:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NmrU33v0N4
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have edited arthur's above video post to make the links work.
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This really is an amazing move and certainly one of the best things i've done on grit. Name to foolow.
Why Foolow just out of interest? Why not Hassop or Wardlow? ;)
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Between Quine & problem 17 is a cave with a big crack in it. Yard along the crack on jams until you can rech a runnel with your right hand, pull round the roof with fear (and a good spot) and grab a tussock of grass to top out. Sounds crappy but really quite good. 6c+ or so
enjoy!
Hi Andy,
Not that surprisingly for me, being an obsessive crack climber I'm afraid I've done said roof crack problem before. I reported it to Ru a while back as being something of interest to those few who like to venture down that "dark tunnel of crack love."
I agree that it's probably worth 6c+ or I might have said 6c, depending on conditions. Nice problem and even better top-out... I called it something obvious like "Jam and Blast-It" I think. I thought that tussock of grass was out??! Eliminate problems eh ;)
Tom
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...Damn - script re-write number 36,776 - good timing Andy - names please!!
...and you Thomas!!! ;)
Si
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After a great deal of thought I’ve settled on a name for the new problem. A few years ago I lost someone I was very close to and had spent a lot of time with over the past 15 years. Said individual was cruelly hacked to but a shadow of their former self and all but the smallest trace of their existence remains. I therefore name this problem “The Brazilian” in honour of a large bush at Raven Tor that was one day ripe and plumptious and the next a withered stump. The perpetrator was never found but I have my suspicions....
Thanks to Siobhan who came up with this name a few years ago causing lots of laughs. It just needed some rock good enough to carry its name.
ps. I just spoke to Rich Heap who said I was probably a little excited when I said it was one of the best problems I’d done on grit. He did concede that it was probably the best problem with a very big move off a very small hold that wasn’t a dyno!
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2nd video shows a definate dab at 12s. A piece of earth is clearly dislodged by the boot.Disgraceful.
How can you sleep at night Andy?
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I think it was a vole making a quick exit from my boot ;)
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How do I sleep at night?
Normally I count sheep but it was vallium & diazepam on Sunday night.
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I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam? Anyone got a BNF?
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I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam? Anyone got a BNF?
Who needs the BNF when your on the internet (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diazepam) (you can cross-reference at BNF (http://www.bnf.org/bnf/) if you want to check the accuracy of the information on Wikipedia, but I can't register for you).
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I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam? Anyone got a BNF?
it is the trade name.
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Another one got done at rowtor on Sunday. Done first by Johnny Brown, then me. The Mantelist is somewhere around tough 7a. It climbs a great little beachball/boob feature between Short Sean's and Kim's Slap Problem. A pure mantel version not using the right arete needs doing too.
Here's Sir Arthur Conan Crabclaw Harris giving it his all.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2320/2323714167_6d7c66d5e8_o.jpg)
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Weird shot. Makes it look like Harris is standing on the ground and examining a very small patch of lichen.
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I think JB might have a shot from a saner angle
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Makes it look like Harris is standing on the ground and examining a very small patch of lichen.
The truth is even stranger - he's actually smearing with his thigh. For the next move check JonBonJoyvi's crazy sequence:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/bonj.jpg)
Roy Moseley also made a quick repeat of To Foolow, Andy's hard gutter mantel by Yoghurt hypnotist. For those lacking the necessary steel fingers for the static option, it can almost certainly be done as a dyno - and a good one, cramped start. Just needs the hueco to dry out properly as I was hitting it well but not sticking.
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It looked like you could also do one of those mad problems that young people do there too. Start up the bank on the left at a green flake, and run along the gutter to gain the big hueco thing
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Looks like olympic class hurdling technique there.
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Yep, Sunday saw a fine 2nd ascent of The Brazilian by Roy confirming the grade & quality at a hard 7c. That's not an easy 7c+ just not a hard enough move to warrant the extra grade. Johnny B's dyno etempts were wild, violent and very close. Mine as you will see were a little more delicate. Also managed a better vid of the direct on SSRR.
The Brazilian
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZPYTPGGhv0
SSRR direct
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXtjQL3Mhzw
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SSRR direct
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXtjQL3Mhzw
Ahhhhemm (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4584.0/all.html), judicious camera work there ;)
Only joshing
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I think that sound may have been a lesser spotted mat scratcher ;). There's a lot of wildlife at that there Rowtor. Keep an eye out for the Great crested dabber.
And anyway what burk all excited at the fact that he now knew how to upload video footage would incriminate himself twice in a week?
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The Brazilian looks a quality problem.
And anyway what burk all excited at the fact that he now knew how to upload video footage would incriminate himself twice in a week?
:lol:
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Hi Jasper, bit of a departure from Rowtor but cast your mind back 15 years or so and 700miles south to Buoux. We're off there for my stag do in a couple of weeks and it's been about 7 years since my last visit. I remember you doing Mauvais Sang back in the day and was wondering what it was like. Always imagined it as like Zeke the Freak but 3 pitches up. Is thata fair reflection or did it boil down toa couple of moves only? Can you remember any specifics. Was it reachy, crimpy, monos etc?
cheers
Andy
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Hang on a minute. What sort of stag do is this? You're not going to drink the bar dry of Diet Coke are you?
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You had me confused on the names there Andy. Have you discovered the pm feature of the forum?
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In reply to Grimer.
I take great offence that you imply we would enter a bar on my stag do. I would imagine a typical day will be as follows:
Roy wakes up early, makes coffee, tea, breakfast & lunch, goes for a run to the crag to make sure it is in condition, runs back, has a dip in our private pool (did I mention we have a pool at our gite). The rest of us get up late, consume goodies and get to crag for 12ish. Climb like beasts all day every day, get back to the house, have protein shake, consume tea which Roy has prepared earlier, have one of those nice small weak beers, read a few chapters of current book.
then repeat for the next 7days. Maybe one day we will come back early and have a swim.
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I just had a slightly worrying realization. Shamed as I am to say it, but I'm hoping you're not joking Andy.
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Have PM'd you Andy. :)
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Have a good time everyone by the way, Buoux is great. This must be the prize for a strong team (which is what's going by the sound of things).
(http://i28.tinypic.com/2wnz6me.jpg)
Awesome. 8)
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whilst on about rowtor, was bimbling about after everyone left on sunday and was doing the easy problem i'd not done before.
Problems 16 & 18 (left and right of prob 17 on the same bloc in the vid), 6a+ and 5+ respectively in the guide, what? How?
Prob 16, crimpy flake to pull on then hideous slopey death top out with no holds, couldn't touch it. 6a+?
Prob 18, 2 crimps and a big hold by your head and notheing else bar a very slopey top again with no holds. Can't put my heel by my head and rock over on it, got no where trying to pull on the slopey top. 5+ you've got to be kidding.
Have I missed something or has the moss grown over some good holds?
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I tried that 5+ recently too, thinking it would be a nice warm up. After pulling on I realised the error of my ways, frowned a lot, and tried unsuccessfully to persuade someone else to have a go. I didn't try it much more than that, and just assumed there must be some trick. Speak up, magicians...
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I've just been there and was a-thinking the same thing. I've done the one on the right with the flat hold before. I can't remember how exactly, but it is quite easy, at least, similar to the one Andy did the sitter to. But tried the one on the left. A tiny crimp flake with no footholds on a steep wall to a nothing top.
Hang on a minute. That's exactly what Jim said.
It looked like a proper hard problem. Any Diet Coke Crimpfesterers out there know?