UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Dave Flanagan on February 21, 2008, 11:41:54 am
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I boulder indoors a few days a week on steep boards (35 degreee and a concave roof to vert wall) mostyl on slopey holds and medium edges. I'm starting to suspect that this has little or no effect in improving my outdoor bouldering which is on granite boulders just either side of vertical but never that steep. I understand that training on crimpy problems on a board would be highly relevent to some limestone bouldering but I don't think it is the case for slopey, non-steep, friction dependent climbing. I found that after a hard days bouldering outdoors my muscles really ache especially the bigger pushing ones in my shoulders.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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No.
But isn't that Working Class article on your site amazing.
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As good as it gets.
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It's simple: train on terrain akin to your stomping grounds. Keep it old skool on slabs to 20° w/ small positive crimps and pinches and sloping tendon freindly crimps.
Train on roofs when you start climbing roofs and want to get better on roofs. You'll get built, but it won't help your slab and wall-ism.
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Yes, train for whatever u want to get good at. At the mo I'm trying to get better on steep powerful ground ie sustained roof work which is my weakness so I'm caning this and laying off the vert. Whatever you do you will improve, just not at the same rate as if you specialise in a particular style.