UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Paul T on February 08, 2008, 10:28:42 am
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After 12 months of constant head-banging, dead ends and other such disappointments, we have recently struck lucky, securing a fine building with the relevant planning, and are now just awaiting the paperwork to be finalised by the lawyers. Baring earthquakes, tidal waves or other such unforeseen disasters, we will be opening the doors for the first time later this summer.
From our floorspace of 8400 square foot, 6000 square foot will be dedicated to climbing surfaces, whilst a café, treatment facility and shop will provide services to visiting climbers. There is ample parking within a two minute walking radius, and easy road access from both the motorway and from the Bath direction. We are on a main cycleway and only a short walk of 15 minutes from both the train and bus/coach stations.
We are committed to being as friendly to our home planet and our fellow human beings as is humanely possible, and the building materials we use will be from sustainable or recycled sources where available. Thinking outside of the plywood box, we will be introducing some novel and interesting features to enhance our customer experience. We will also be fitting a chalk extraction system (no not just an open door on a windy day) and the company will be carbon neutral.
The exact location will be disclosed shortly, as soon as the men in grey suits have done their crucial bit for Queen, Country and South West’s expectant climbing population.
Paul Twomey & Rich Emerson Feb 2008
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:thumbsup:
Is this a different project to Ron's?
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Or indeed the Climbing Works?
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Ron's project - AKA Climbing Works Bristol is till going to happen baring any further planning setbacks - we're aiming to open at the end of 2008 if all goes to plan. Paul's project is different one all together.
Bouldering centres seem to be like buses down Bristol way, no?
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what, covered in graffiti, full of chavs sat at the back, and when you enter they haven't got any change? I hope not.
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They need to have one of those high, overhanging walls with the ramped mats like they have in Switzerland.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=58279
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Gotta say, I like that idea. At first I thought "but why not do routes". But it's not about routes, it's about very long hard boulder problems without needing a route vibe. Looks like the fall would be okay - translating downwards velocity into angled velocity and all that.
All we need is a bouldering wall....with a high ceiling....and a track record of being willing to try innovative ideas.... :-\
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It looks shit and it would take up a ridiculous amount of room. They wouldn't be long boulder problems they'd be routes. A route is still a route if you do it without a rope or with that crazy safety net thing that uncle posted.
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No clipping, no faffing, no fear = different vibe.
You could have a normal bouldering wall on the underside of whatever structure holds the mats.
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thing is it'd be shit training for routes cos you'd not be prepared for having to climb slower and stop to clip, and it'd be shit training for bouldering cos most stuff in this country is only half a dozen moves long. it'd also be shit training for bouldering traverses, because you wouldn't be traversing. it'd only be good training for big links in parisellas, and that chipped slate quarry in scotland. its not all that different to the steep boards leading into the massive roof in the edge woody (RIP) which of the whole facility was the bit no fucker ever used.
yes it would be "fun" initially but the novelty would wear off faster than Tab Clear or Global Hypercolour t-shirts.
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Sorry Fiend but I think you're being silly. What is the point? If you want to train endurance at a bouldering wall then do circuits or something. If you want to train for routes then go to a leading wall and experience the fear and the faff which are a necessary part of the discipline.
And what Dave said.
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Looks fun to me. It's only a partial solution. We need to start landscaping crags so we can do away with ropes forever. Faffing is such a horrible disease.
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Looks fun to me.
Once again the f word rears it's ugly head. ;)
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You're one of these people I'm never going to meet at the wall or crag, because we live in different dimensions.
If you feel a wierd breeze round your handhold, that'll be me trying (unsucsessfully) to dyno to it backwards.
If I walk into the works one day and everything seems slightly tinged with a hellish red, I'll know our worlds are close together...
:lol:
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Sorry Fiend but I think you're being silly.
Silly for being positive about an idea that looks cool to me?? Ta :-*
What is the point?
Fun?!?! I have no shame in using the F-word!!
Something a bit different??
God we don't want to start encouraging that. What next?? Colour-coordinated bouldering circuits without rigid grades?? Shit training that. Font style-circuits where you don't step off the ground?? Sounds like bollox to me. Novelty problems that are bizarre and creative but don't actually train you for big numbers?? It will never catch on.
Even worse it might infect outdoors....next thing people will be sitting down and starting boulder problems lower down to make them "more interesting". Or climbing on sea-cliffs without ropes!!
What nonsense. Stop the rot before it starts. Make sure everything fits inside the neat conventional boxes!!
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The f word thing is a joke as you well know. That wall still looks utter wank though and if you were seriously suggesting that it would be a good idea for The Works to waste half the space they have creating a stupid novelty piece of shit that nobody would use then I stand by the fact that you are being fucking silly.
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...So anyway, this Bristol centre, any more details Paul? What sort of walls/training facilities/fun will be on offer? Tell us more...
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Smite away Fiend it doesn't change FACT. ;D
Sorry I'll stop with the :off: stuff now. Back to your dimension r-man.
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everything seems slightly tinged with a hellish red,
Like you're nearly dead on Resident Evil and need some flowerpots?
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Great news Paul, is there a website/mailing list I can get on for updates.
More bristol venues the better in my book.
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They need to have one of those high, overhanging walls with the ramped mats like they have in Switzerland.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=58279
Argument above notwithstanding, I think that looks ace! Surely that's the point of building climbing walls - more fun less faff.
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fact n. A thing which is undisputably the case because I fucking said so.
The offending item is the best training facility I've ever seen for the best facet of our dear 'sport', Deep Water Soloing. No fear, no clips and about the height of Crab Party. I'd go on it.
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What's wrong with Gollum's Cave? :lol:
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To keep you posted either:
http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com/
or
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=21270425153
but don't expect any news for a bit as I'm off to Panama to work on James Bond. Will let you know more though in due course....
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Fuck me, it sounds like UKC on here!
Just to add my opinion
...if you were seriously suggesting that it would be a good idea for The Works to waste half the space they have creating a stupid novelty piece of shit that nobody would use...
Seems to me that there's quite a lot of unused space at the Works which could be used. Starting from the back left corner (between the campus boards and the Competition wall), and going up the back wall (through the campus wall). Yes it would be a massive faff to get it put in, and no I'm not suggesting that Sam and Percy do add it, but it wouldn't take much space, and if the pad was a slide which brought you out into a ball pool (or maybe something a little more sensible), then I think it would be popular. I'd sure as hell use it (I wouldn't commute from Bangor to go there though!).
I think it would be fun. And an amusing training aid. It'd be perfect for me, as I'm currently trying to improve my power endurance.
Sorry about the :off:
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more fun less faff.
It looks fun in principle to me too, but at walls in general they can get so carried away providing fun problems that they cease to bear any resemblance to outdoor problems let alone being of any relevant training benefit, and take up loads of room. I'm thinking in particular of those massive stupid volume features that you hit your chin on wehn you fall off, all they're good for is bonfire night I say. For regular wall goers they're just novelty gimmick problems, I'm sure you'd get more value from a load of elegant well set face problems, or woody problems with interesting moves on. I know this is subjective, but for the record none of the best, and especially none of the `fuck me that was good' problems and routes I did at UCR had any screw on big bananas on.
I'm off to Panama to work on James Bond.
Please ask them to change the name Paul, I know they'll never bring Little Nelly back again but for the love of God they have to change the name!
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Just uploaded some photos to the blog over the last few days now that we're making some progress with the build.
http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com/ (http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com/)
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Good effort. Looks awesome.
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Wish the climbing works had a roof like that!
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there used to be a roof like that in the edge woody (about 30ft square). it was the shittest bit of the whole setup, and saw little use compared to the other surfaces. seemed cool at first, but was total shit.
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30ft square isn't very big. 6 by 5. This one looks much bigger.
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are you on prescription speedballs? a 30ft square roof is massive. offhand I don't recall the exact dimensions of the edge woody roof but the photo on the above link doesn't look a million miles away from that sort of ballpark size. and the size is irrelevent anyway. the edge woody roof wasn't shit because it was too small.
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The one I built in The Edge woody was 16 feet wide by 32 feet long. Or 512 square feet of climbing surface. It was pretty big, but was a good way of covering space that couldn't be used for better angled boards (ie: the ceiling of the room). It was a stam-lord magnet, and thats for sure...
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Massive is a subjective concept, but 30 square feet = 5 feet wide and 6 feet long. Sounds like Tom's roof to me.
Ah, I see Percy has already set the record straight.
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Mr Robert will love it...
(http://www.alainrobert.com/photostraining/ar-mur07.jpg)
(http://www.alainrobert.com/photostraining/ar-training.jpg)
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Massive is a subjective concept, but 30 square feet = 5 feet wide and 6 feet long. Sounds like Tom's roof to me.
i didn't say 30 square feet anyway ::)
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Silly me.
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Back on topic for a mo.......the walls are progressing nicely now by the looks of the blog.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_x0OHAJhS_JY/SMB9SVcBipI/AAAAAAAAADA/DoVMAVgX9KM/s320/P1010534.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_x0OHAJhS_JY/SL2oFIQFn1I/AAAAAAAAACw/sIjSFnS-KXI/s320/P1010519.jpg)
Roll on opening day! :thumbsup:
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News from Bristol is that the last bit of wall is almost complete - and it's a bit of a beast. There's still much to do though throughout the centre but we'll be opening sometime next month - no fixed date yet as there's a few variables still in the pot. Loads of new photos and info on the blog...
http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com (http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com)
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You got an opening date yet paul? Also any news on membership for < 5 yrs? Looks great with the paint on! Finally, it may well be that I'm just incompetent, but I couldn't find an address on the blog anywhere - care to enlighten us?
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right, my gf, who is in on this newfangled facebook thang, says it opens on Sat the 15th, However I'm still none the wiser as to where to go... Surely this is kind of important info to make available?
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The rumour is that its 10mins from UCR on the other side of the M32. It's just a rumour though.
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I'm sure they're the sort of specifics Duma was after.
And if you still can't find it from those directions, and need further clues, I believe it's in an old warehouse.
More seriously, I encountered Paul on the mean streets of St Werburghs last night and he said it would open with a competition on the 29th of November as the matting was arriving around then.
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Here's the latest update from facebook group...
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Subject: Early November update
Things have moved on greatly since the last update and the place is now almost a premiere bouldering facility. The second coat of paint is being applied to the walls and all the plastering is complete. The finish is to a very high standard and you can really feel the quality and attention to detail inside the building. It's hard to believe now that it looked like an underground car park a few short months ago.
The last piece of wall to be built is a beast and will provide a real inspirational focal point, with a full view from the café and reception area. We’ve been taking more visitors over the last few weeks and everyone has been blown away buy the sheer number of different angles and the overall feel of high workmanship throughout. Not to mention the lighting, which is incredible, and more than one person has asked if we’ve fitted skylights.
There have been a few delays unfortunately. A couple areas of the build are proving slightly more problematic than anticipated and our opening target of the 15th is not now feasible. We have decided to pursue a soft opening as soon as we can and follow that with a party when we are up and running.
We’re finalising times and prices and they will be made known shortly, as will the location, and we’re also looking for a few extra casual staff for evenings and weekends.
Have fun climbing and I’ll send another update shortly.
Paul
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You got an opening date yet paul? Also any news on membership for < 5 yrs? Looks great with the paint on! Finally, it may well be that I'm just incompetent, but I couldn't find an address on the blog anywhere - care to enlighten us?
I was hoping for the 15th but with a couple delays that are beyond our control it's now going to be nearer the end of the month. All the other info coming soon - don't worry.
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Location details now on the new blog, housed at www.theclimbingacademy.com (http://www.theclimbingacademy.com)
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We've also decided, after much consideration, on English tech grades. To start there will be a kids circuit with closer spaced holds, and 4-5a, 5a-5b, 5b-5c, 5c-6a and 6a+.
It's not up anymore, but IIRC the vote on the blog re grade sytem went to font by over 50%
??? :-\ :'(
Also, 4 circuits between Eng 5a and 6a: Overkill no?
Still, pics look good, and I'll know how hard stuff is in real money, can't wait! :bounce:
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The pics do not do the place justice imo. Thankfully some foam for the matting appears to have arrived so thats a step towards opening....great....I cannot wait.
Pity about the use of british tech grading - its seems that the majority preferred font. :shrug: Not that I am complaining, its bloody brilliant that we are getting such a quality wall in Bristol. A lot of thought has clearly gone into the planning and design of the facilities, I mean, daylight lighting, underfloor heating in the toilets and showers, wifi, and huge expanses of wall space. Way ahead of most walls! :great:
And, as a parent to be, having a place next door, to leave the nipper, whilst I climb will be very welcome.
Bring on opening day
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Thanks for the comments about grading guys.
I thought long and hard about the grading topic and discussed the pros and cons with a wide range of people, many of who are very good boulderers. You are right that the vote on the blog was favouring Font grades, but the volume of voters was not particularly high, and certainly not the representative cross-section that we had hoped for. There will be a dedicated board in the centre for marking up Font grades of individual problems, though circuits will get given overlapping uk tech grades which our core customers will be more familiar with. This seems the way to get the best of both grading worlds and be less confusing to people overall. For example - the 5c to 6a circuit (it's orange by the way) will encompass Font grades of 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b and 6b+. That's a real mouthful and on its own and I know would be very difficult for many people to understand.
The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers. We're really keen on encouraging new climbers and not just servicing the existing market and this is the best way, along with excellent facilities, to do just that. There will be plenty for everyone though.
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Chinny reckon.
I think you might be heading for the Land of Confusion.
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What SA Chris said.
New climbers won't have a clue what the difference between font grades and UK tech grades and punters will think:
"i can climb 5c at UCR so why can't i climb 5c here?"
confusion ensues.
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What SA Chris said.
New climbers won't have a clue what the difference between font grades and UK tech grades and punters will think:
"i can climb 5c at UCR so why can't i climb 5c here?"
confusion ensues.
Nothing new there then :lol:
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The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers.
Strange - this reads as though you want to baffle people into trying harder circuits?
Tech grades have never worked for bouldering (how can they, when they only describe the individual move?). Almost everyone has either been to Font or wants to. Why not go with grades that will give people a more useful measure of their ability and progress?
I'm not from Bristol, but everyone I know from there has been moaning about this!
Grades aside, good luck with your new wall!
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What SA Chris said.
New climbers won't have a clue what the difference between font grades and UK tech grades and punters will think:
"i can climb 5c at UCR so why can't i climb 5c here?"
confusion ensues.
Nothing new there then :lol:
Sorry, i meant...
More confusion ensues.
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I can see a good argument for using single-move tech grades for a circuit.
If you're capable of say 6a(Uk) then you should be able to do every move & therefore eventually every problem on the 6a circuit.
Some of them might be very hard ( lots of moves high bouldering grade) & perhaps take a lot of working but in theory there shouldn't be any stopper moves.
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I'm not from Bristol, but everyone I know from there has been moaning about this!
Same here. You have to make sure no one's read Das Mail in the last 24 hours before mentioning it or there might be a thermonuclear outrage explosion.
On the bright side, the photos look fabtastic and i can't wait for opening day!
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I can see a good argument for using single-move tech grades for a circuit.
If you're capable of say 6a(Uk) then you should be able to do every move & therefore eventually every problem on the 6a circuit.
Some of them might be very hard ( lots of moves high bouldering grade) & perhaps take a lot of working but in theory there shouldn't be any stopper moves.
So how is that different from the Font grades? Maybe the 6a circuit will just have problems with 1 to 10 6a moves in them
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New climbers won't have a clue what the difference between font grades and UK tech grades and punters will think:
"i can climb 5c at UCR so why can't i climb 5c here?"
confusion ensues.
I think that having 2 grades within the same centre will be even more confusing, if you are having font on a trainign board and eng tech on circuits. Not like anyone will us one or the other exclusively.
Anyway, good luck with the venture btw, shame you didnt open it 10 years ago when I was down there.
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So how is that different from the Font grades?
Because say Fb 7A is right at my limit (wish that were true) then a one move wonder at that grade is probably going to be impossible for me no matter how long I work on it. I'm simply not going to be strong enough.
On the other hand a problem with the same bouldering grade but several moves long will at least have moves that I'm capable of working & my experience is that if I can do the moves then I can (eventually) do the problem.
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Or if 5c is near the top of your limit then it would take you months to do a 10 move 5c problem......same shit different oranges
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The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers.
Strange - this reads as though you want to baffle people into trying harder circuits?
Tech grades have never worked for bouldering (how can they, when they only describe the individual move?). Almost everyone has either been to Font or wants to. Why not go with grades that will give people a more useful measure of their ability and progress?
I'm not from Bristol, but everyone I know from there has been moaning about this!
Grades aside, good luck with your new wall!
Funnily enough they have font grades at UCR now (wonder why they introduced that all of a sudden :-\) and so many people go around moaning that they are innacurate :wall:.
I agree with Paul that grades can put people off trying a problem that they feel is too hard for them. I have certainly climbed with others who wouldn't try X problem as it was a Y grade and they can't climb Y grade.
Besides, they are having a pizza oven installed so I'm happy! (great idea btw) :)
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Whats the latest on an opening date?
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Besides, they are having a pizza oven installed so I'm happy! (great idea btw) :)
[/quote]
:agree:
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Opens next Tuesday (http://www.theclimbingacademy.com/) :bounce: :bounce:
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Tuesday at midday - a few things might not be quite finished but nothing that will stop us holding back the bouldering masses. Some great problems already and we're super psyched.
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Looking truely stunning now :o :great:
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v867/231/103/32465140965/n32465140965_1486287_6989.jpg)
(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v867/231/103/32465140965/n32465140965_1486288_7188.jpg)
Roll on Tuesday.
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Right, first impressions...
Plus:
Reception/cafe area good,seem well laid out, nice ambiance, decent coffee, awesome cake.
The daylight lighting works really well.
The walls/shapes are great. It's massive, and never felt close to crowded even though there were a few folk there this evening. Much steeper on average than UCR bouldering, but still good variety of angles etc. The junior problems for the lesser of stature are a great idea.
Fans work brilliantly - quiet (like silent) and effective.
Minus:
Problem marking - the posh tags are fine for the starting position, but too small for the circuits when you're casting around for where the next hold is. Also on several probs I tried tonight it wasn't obvious which was the finishing hold(s) - I think it would be worth bunging a finish tag on the relevant hold.
Buy some screw ons (more foot holds)!!! Far too much of the less steep hard stuff was hard/reachy mainly because there wasn't enough (small/rubbish) footholds - especially at the start of problems.
Holds - I know you have some deal with holdz(don't know if all the holds are by them, but the point stands), but there isn't nearly enough variety, and theres 2 types in particular that have been used very extensively that I really don't like, "blobby", and "pointlessly rough" - I appreciate that this may be just me, but I find the "blobby" ones tend to bruise the joints a lot, a few is fine, but it feels like over half the holds on the blue circuit are this type. I really object to the "pointlessly rough" ones (these are the ones where the grip surface is much rougher than the rest of the hold, really course grain), again no issue with variety, but when climbing/training indoors, I want my skin to last as long as possible, and not to be in pain just due to the texture of the hold. If I want that shit, Dartmoor is only an hour and a half down the road!
Sorry if it sounds like I'm moaning, I've waffled more on the minuses - trying to clarify/be constructive. I really enjoyed my first visit, and most of the above grumbles are aimed at the blue and orange probs, didn't really spend any time on the others so can't comment.
Oh yeah hope, the girl who dislocated (broke??) her arm tonight is doing ok.
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Reading this again this morning, couple more points...
The circuits seem to work well, in practice I see how the idea of overlapping the difficulty ranges should be really good in encouraging people to try harder stuff.
The stupid eng tech grades aren't really an issue in practice, I was envisaging each problem being individually graded, but since the approach seems to be "x circuit, this grade range; y circuit, this grade range" they're not too intrusive.
On nights this w/e and then away for a few days so will be a while before I get a chance to try again >:( :furious:, hopefully this time with a bit more skin and energy (doing the UCR comp yesterday afternoon before my visit probably wasn't ideal preperation!)
Also the misplaced comma in the last sentence of my last post really annoys me - can a mod fix please?
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I'm going to go and have a look tomorrow. Won't be doing much with my crippled elbows though!
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i think it's chuffin brilliant, nice one everybody involved. I predict a massive hike in standards in the bristol area.
Only request would be for a few more problerms of the savage crimpy variety than the big blobby bicep ones.
But basically brilliant. Especially the flapjack.
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I had an excellent choccy and Praline slice on Saturday afternoon. Bouldering was pretty good too.
On a serious note...
F***ing awesome job (grading system aside). Beautiful finish on everything and there was a definite feeling that no expense has been spared. The dyson hand-dryers for example!
I puntered my way round the green circuit while the missus had muchos fun on the black (fnarrr). I'm truly amazed at how many people the place can swallow without seeming the least bit full.
Some very well set problems, many of them on some alarmingly steep walls. My hands really suffered as the holds are so rough, but i'll toughen up!
My only minor niggle was that it was bloody boiling whilst bloddering away from the door, but when you stop for a coffee it was really parky in the seated area. Silly little thing really and i don't want it to detract from what is an excellent facility.
Paul mentioned that the next thing is to get a license to serve booze! Result!
I'm heading back on Tuesday for more!
Shiga-DING!
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Happy new year and thanks for all the constructive feedback guys. The overall response has been amazing but we're certainly not going to be doing any laurel resting, and we will continue to strive to improve the centre as and when we can.
We're still doing some finishing around the place, the wooden frontage is going up at present and the signs arrive today at last, though some people have really been enjoying playing the 'hunt for the gate' game in the local streets. The extraction is working beautifully but were still going to get a bit more cool air through into the climbing area. All the staff have recieved barrista training and the standard of coffee making is second to none. Big Ron has been popping in especially to warm his feet on the toilet floor, and there's lots of good (in between mouthfuls) being said about the fresh home made pizzas.
Our friendly comp dates are Jan 24th, Feb 28th and March 21st, all Saturdays with free evening lectures and music. There will be male and female 1st prizes of £100 Ellis Brigham vouchers and £100 cash, and loads of other prizes from Boreal, Holdz, DMM and Beta Climbing Designs. We've also got Chris Sharma on the 26th feb for a very limited place lecture. All details are on the events page of the website, which is almost fully up to speed.
We've added a comments book to the site so that any constuctive feedback can be made directly and easily - and done so anonymously if desired. We'll be genuinely considering all comments and adding or changing things as we feel necessary.
There will also be some coaching days coming up shortly - keep an eye on http://www.theclimbingacademy.com/events (http://www.theclimbingacademy.com/events) for details.
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I visited the centre just after Christmas whilst returning from my parents place and was really impressed. A great feel to the place, some excellent problems on every circuit and lots of climbing to be had. Really liked the attention to detail as others have said and was amazed at how much bouldering fitted into a seemingly small area without getting busy. There are some brilliant angles all over the centre, I especially liked the steep boards opposite the entrance and the "mantel" board at the back left (with the change of angle to a slab giving some very cool and unusual indoor problems). I was a bit puzzled by the blue circuit which stretched apparently from 6a to 7c, maybe it needs to be a little harder (ie no 6's in it) as there is plenty of easy bouldering in the orange, black, green, yellow circuits. Just a thought and I am sure your circuits will settle down. Oh yeah, the training boards I presume will get more holds added to them in time?
Anyway, I shall certainly be back every time I pass through Bristol as I thought it was brilliant. Keep up the great work and the fantastic cakes.
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I reckon Paul should get a Knighthood. I can't get enough of the place and I've been visiting regularly despite the 45 minute drive up the M4. In fact, i'm heading there tonight. Save me some of that coffee and walnut cake.