UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bonjoy on February 04, 2008, 11:08:37 am
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This is second hand and I don't have any details, but word on the street is that that James has climbed that mightiest of last greats, the groove project on the Fernhill wall at Cratcliff. If word on the street is true then hurrah, mighty fine effort sir!! :great:
I heard it was done Saturday, I'm surprised it hasn't appeared on the internet already. Anyone have any more info?
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:agree: That would indeed be truly amazing :bow:
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Wonderful news.
Who hasn't admired that wee groove?
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james must be due massive props (http://www.abratis.de/ship/construct/pic/prop1.jpg) for this.
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Awesome effort. Inspiring stuff.......
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A fine effort, good to see someone committed to putting away the last generation's LGP's. I wonder what he's graded it?
When will MR catch up and report this news, or is this site so full of sad wankers that can't climb that James' ascent doesn't count?
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Mick's headline will be something like "UKB in 2-days-behind-the-pace news shocker!".
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Nice! you got the blend of bile and ignorance just right.
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Thought Bransby climbed this a few years ago!
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No, that was the prow project.
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Saw James on this a couple of weeks back, he was doing the move about one in three, looked amazing and very good, I think the top out section is worth E6 n'all. E7 7b?
There was a full media scene, I wasn't 'allowed' to take photos as apparently there is an 'exclusive cover deal'. However I saw Simmo yesterday and he said James hadn't done it yet... at least not when he was there. Or he could have been lying... either way don't expect to see any photos until the mag is out.
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'exclusive cover deal' OMG
Maybe use a telephoto lense ;)
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Fuck "The Man" Adam. Shoot what you like.
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yeah its a public place innit? has samsonite got some hired goons to clear the area? ;D
(http://www.channel4.com/entertainment/tv/microsites/P/phoenix_nights/pf/images/galleries/characters/max&paddy/10.jpg)
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Yes James has done The Groove at Cratcliffe. For a news link look at http://www.climbmagazine.com/BulletinBoardGroove.aspx
You can see them in a forthcoming Climb magazine.
And it was awesome to witness.
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All due respect to James Pearson for the inevitable ascent and whilst I would've respected his wishes re no photos no-one should tell you "no photos". Fuck, no photos is a privilege in a public place, not a right, as every Heat reader will tell you.
:rtfm:
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hurrah, mighty fine effort sir!! :great:
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:great:
:bow:
the first E10 in england/wales that really looks inspiring in my opinion!
JB should've sneaked a few shots for a 'UKB exclusive' though!
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There was a full media scene, I wasn't 'allowed' to take photos as apparently there is an 'exclusive cover deal'.
Yes James has done The Groove at Cratcliffe. For a news link look at http://www.climbmagazine.com/BulletinBoardGroove.aspx
You can see them in a forthcoming Climb magazine.
And it was awesome to witness.
for full details on the ascent check out a forthcoming addition of Climb magazine for exclusive pictures and the full story.
:thumbsdown:
Excellent effort James, well done.
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P.s. exclusive or not, Climb still can't spell..
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nice one james. well done.
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fantastic effort!
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Yes James has done The Groove at Cratcliffe. For a news link look at http://www.climbmagazine.com/BulletinBoardGroove.aspx
You can see them in a forthcoming Climb magazine.
And it was awesome to witness.
Excellent effort and awesome line! Congratulations.
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Look at the end of the day Adam could have taken photo's, he was going to shoot some for use in the guidebook which wasn't a problem. The problem was having photo's published elsewhere or all over the internet as it does dilute the impact of them in a climbing mag so I did tell Adam that I'd a deal with Climb mag and that I wouldn't appreciate them been published elsewhere. I also know that if he wished to take pictures then there's nothing I can do about. I've been asked the same thing by other photographers and have respected their wishes without comment. It just happens sometime so i'm surprised that such a big deal is being made of this. You also have to remember that a lot of time and effort goes into these things and you don't just turn up the once. Pehaps the way I asked him could have been done better but there you go, I was more woried about James being successful and not hurting himself.
What you should be talking about is James's ascent which was filmed by the Hot Aches crew for a future DVD.
p.s. what can't I spell
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Last section: it's edition rather than addition...
But you're right: the ascent's what matters.. :bow: once more..
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Look at the end of the day Adam could have taken photo's, he was going to shoot some for use in the guidebook which wasn't a problem. The problem was having photo's published elsewhere or all over the internet as it does dilute the impact of them in a climbing mag so I did tell Adam that I'd a deal with Climb mag and that I wouldn't appreciate them been published elsewhere. I also know that if he wished to take pictures then there's nothing I can do about. I've been asked the same thing by other photographers and have respected their wishes without comment. It just happens sometime so i'm surprised that such a big deal is being made of this. You also have to remember that a lot of time and effort goes into these things and you don't just turn up the once. Pehaps the way I asked him could have been done better but there you go, I was more woried about James being successful and not hurting himself.
What you should be talking about is James's ascent which was filmed by the Hot Aches crew for a future DVD.
p.s. what can't I spell
There are a lot of climbers / photographers out there who I am sure will agree that it is great when the opportunity arises to witness and record a mighty impressive first ascent. I personally think that if someone tells you not to take photos of them, then you should respect their wishes and refrain. However, as a photographer, you know that you have no right to do that (even the subject has no legal right), not even a moral one. If you had asked, I am sure any other snappers there would have kept their coveted shots to themselves / pub mates and not try to beat you to your exclusive. But that is all you should have asked for. Anything more is arrogant.
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The problem isn't with you, David, or this particular event. The problem is that a conflict of interest over climbing media is a natural and unsavoury conclusion to high profile climbing + sponsorship + media + the need of various individuals to make money from it. There's no-one in particular to criticise and probably no easy answers either. Probably worth a topic of it's own (although it could get pretty heated).
As for James ascent....I'd like to talk more about it but I don't know what to say really. I liked the footage on Committed and look forward to the footage on C2.
Now, what about the faint blank finger flake/ripple to the right.... ;)
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This is an interesting and valid discussion, but if people want to carry on with it would they please do so on a separate thread.
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Well done James! Can't wait to see the footage.
Is this now called "The Groove", or has a name not been decided yet?
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:bow:
That is all.
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Shit, I can't believe this. We were at the Stride Saturday and saw some roped stuff at the Tor, we thought it was a bit odd looking but didn't bother going to look!
Tremendous work though.
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Amazing effort and totally inspiring.
:bow:
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Well done James! Can't wait to see the footage.
Is this now called "The Groove", or has a name not been decided yet?
It'll be called "James' Ramp" :lol:
Well done again thought Youth. :great:
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Excellent. :bow:
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Effort youth.
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more beans on here:
http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2008/02/groove-e10-7b.html
I must admit i never had this down as a bold route, i don't think i ever considered the top half into the equation.
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:agree:
Boom, biggest line falls etc. Brilliant effort youth.
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Didn't Dawes used to guff on about however many Brit 7c moves it was in a row . . . ?!
Q: How tall is James?
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he's taller than you, which really isn't saying much is it :P
even though you are taller than me but that really isn't too hard.
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I've no idea who you are pal . . .
You're right, it's not saying much.
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would be interesting to see how many more of these Youth can get knocked off:
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_lgp.html
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Alright!!!
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Have I missed something or has the Kinder arete been done?
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Kinder?
(That is an old website though, a few of those have now been done, i'm on about the outstanding ones.)
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Sorry I'm el confusio, I know jack about grit . . .
I though there was an ultra beau line to go at Kinder (is it kinder) - somewhere - hanging arete, desp and very bold.
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Are you thinking of this http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6726 ?
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Look, I must find more info from Katz, he showed me a picture of an outstanding arete in a guidebook, I tell thee, it looked utterly horrific. Perhaps it's not Kinder . . . This was last year - it was unclimbed.
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Possibbly the Hen cloud arete (route) or the Churnet one (boulder problem), can't remember where in churnet it is Sharpcliffe? Is that even a place in Churnet?
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Mick's headline will be something like "UKB in 2-days-behind-the-pace news shocker!".
From UK Rubbish....
Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC on - 13:52 Mon - www.ukclimbing.com/news/
One of the last great problems on Gritstone has been climbed. The groove below Fern Hill at Cratcliffe Tor was climbed by James Pearson on Saturday.
so... "Mick Ryan running to catch up with news when his headline was already on UKB"........ or something like that :lol:
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Look, I must find more info from Katz, he showed me a picture of an outstanding arete in a guidebook, I tell thee, it looked utterly horrific. Perhaps it's not Kinder . . . This was last year - it was unclimbed.
Direct start below Sickbay Shuffle @ Wimberry??
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Houdini, I thin you may be thinking about the arete thing at raven stones? that was discussed on these boards last year sometimes.
James is deceptively tall with a big reach BTW
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There's an arete at Thorn needs doing.
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Houdini, I thin you may be thinking about the arete thing at raven stones? that was discussed on these boards last year sometimes.
James is deceptively tall with a big reach BTW
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5409.msg99242.html#msg99242
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The Ravenstones one is good but possibly just very highball nowadays, but Houdini is right, there is also a belter at Kinder Downfall, near Raggald's Wall, looks v. hard and definitely not just highball.
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What Andy said - its in the downfall area and looks like the bow of a ship. High, hard, bad landing.
I've no great problem with Dave's exclusive, feeling he had to lie about it to three of us yesterday was a bit wierd though. Jeez, if Sam can keep a secret for 12 hours I'm sure I could.
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I didn't really trust anyone to keep it quiet (except the odd close friend) because I know what gossip is like. Plus I even rang you to apologise this morning Adam so let's drop it yeh. Just get back to the fact that James' climbed it.
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Maybe you have to see it in person to realise how important this is, but the photos on the hotaches page left me wondering what all the fuss was about? Is it just not very photogenic?
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It is brilliant news, well done James. It's great to see that it's pushing the technical boundaries too, rather than being another skyhook/rock n roller type route.
I think it was inevitable that it would one day be climbed, and James really deserved it.
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Bon effort monsieur tres fort. :thumbsup:
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Interesting as JB predicted it as E7 7b (which I would've thought that if that were the case it would have been done years ago) and James gives it E10 7b which would be more appropriate - if you understand the Brit system fully.
Also - no disrespect to JP - but is this pushing technical boundaries? Sure a 7c tech grade would be the case if that was so . . .
And argue!
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Also - no disrespect to JP - but is this pushing technical boundaries? Sure a 7c tech grade would be the case if that was so . . .
And argue!
Yeah, course it is, how many other 7b routes are out there? Plus, it may be hard 7b. Also, if he gave it 7c, everyone would be saying "hey, we've missed a grade".
I definitely think it is a boundary push and it's also good news to know that someone at last is willing to break the tech grade bubble.
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Interesting as JB predicted it as E7 7b
James suggested E7 7a when I saw him on it, I see now this was clearly a joke. It think 7b is fair, suggests font 8a-8b for the crux section. Can't really comment on the route grade, missing the break would certainly see you very close to the ground, think Genocide but worse, and with a 7b move to stick to boot. Bransby suggested E6 for the higher section, which could mean nothing.
Maybe you have to see it in person to realise how important this is, but the photos on the hotaches page left me wondering what all the fuss was about? Is it just not very photogenic?
The good pics are clearly being saved for the mag. This pic might give a better idea, if you ignore the balding chump:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/crat6.jpg)
Its a stunning feature. Direction is lost slightly iabove the crux section, but few who've seen it would deny its worthy of a place in the canon of most coveted lines on grit. The fact that its been tried by all the best makes it a prize indeed. I'm sure James is walking around with a right grin on, and well earned. Can't wait to see the video.
edit: I'm sure James has already got one, but the name suggestions on this old thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3502.60.html) are worth a read
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Warm Love is given 7b as is Samson (theres a fair bit on boulder probs) and is old now. But your point is salient, there are not that many routes w/ 7b on, however it's not up there w/ the hardest moves on rock and that's what I meant and should have made it clearer - and saved you a job.
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Was hoping this news got out. Mw and worm were at cratcliffe on Sat and saw Mr Simmonite looking furtive amongst the boulders. He was very coy though, I kinda knew what was happening and we went to watch. Looked easy when he led it. A faint left foot slip as he latched the break and no drama after that.
Worm did reckon he had done it before James who offered us a grade of E2 5C or font 8a+!
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Was hoping this news got out. Mw and worm were at cratcliffe on Sat and saw Mr Simmonite looking furtive amongst the boulders. He was very cosy though, I kinda knew what was happening and we went to watch. Looked easy when he led it. A faint left foot slip as he latched the break and no drama after that.
Worm did reckon he had done it before James who offered us a grade of E2 5C or font 8a+!
Was it that cold
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is it this one?
(http://bp2.blogger.com/_P8ZJ8GytXDM/R6cIvzCuUrI/AAAAAAAAA-8/Kl7TeDGyHT4/s1600/The%2BGrooveJamesPFeb07Hot%2BAches%2BImages_2.jpg)
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Amazing: a great line, a funky solution. Props to James.
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The good pics are clearly being saved for the mag. This pic might give a better idea, if you ignore the balding chump:
That photo looks like a Lancashire quarry!
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Not as good as a Lancashire Quarry :P
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good effort James - the conditions were so good it felt something big should have gone down - just in time for Adams script too!!
(and of course some piccys for the guide too!!)
:thumbsup:
Si
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Fantastic! :bow: :bow: :bow:
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I'd kind of like to see it called "The Groove" simply because thats how its always been known and sometimes less is more. Then again if I'd wanted to name it I should have gone and climbed it. Had stuff to do though so never got round to it.
:whistle:
Fuckin ell. The shit has already started on UKC. People complaining that he wasnt in the groove. Bloody gobshites. :wank:
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Has anyone heard what the name will be then, or do I have to wait for Hello magazine to come out so I can read it in WHSmiths?
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Fern Ill gets my vote.
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given the venue, 'Nuthatch/my mortal enemy the pomegranate' would get my vote.
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He's more than welcome to use my - The Calculated Violation of _ _ _ _ _ _ / _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ' Dirtbox.
Why? It's perfect!
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He's more than welcome to use my - The Calculated Violation of _ _ _ _ _ _ / _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ' Dirtbox.
There's a few too many letters in there, shouldn't it be _ _ _ _ / _ _ _ _?
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Fears for my own personal safety forbid me from correcting you . . . :whistle:
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Fern Ill gets my vote.
Mine too. Genius.
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Mid March for the mag.. that's why mags are shit.
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B U L L S H I T
The only acceptible name is The Cratcliffe Groove. And so say all of us.
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Fern Ill gets my vote.
Mine too. Genius.
That would be a great name
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Keep reporting stuff like this Mick and I may have to stop taking the piss out of the UKC news section.
I feel the two punter points I received for this are a little unjustified. I saw it as a jibe at Mick without the risk of it getting deleted. I feel that in other topics I have made my feelings on MR perfectly clear.
Apologies for going off topic. Now, back to wadding James.
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http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pearsonthegroove/
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Keep reporting stuff like this Mick and I may have to stop taking the piss out of the UKC news section.
Sounded more like a Mick Ryan wad, but let's give you the benefit of the doubt.
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Fern Ill gets my vote.
I sincerely hope he can do better than that
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Ok. Here's a little trivia question for everyone. This is brilliant news, and really well done to James, but what is particularly important about this ascent, from a historically trivial point of view?
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Same day/month as Fern Hill, at a real bad guess??
Not sure about Fern Ill, too easily confusable with Fern Hill. Fern Illin' might be better. But I suspect it warrants a more dramatic name...
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As long as it's not some crap like "Master's Groove"
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fern ill is very poor. it deserves a top name, something that stands out. sure JP will think of something, 'the promise' is a very cool name so im sure we'll be pleasantly surprised.
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Ok. Here's a little trivia question for everyone. This is brilliant news, and really well done to James, but what is particularly important about this ascent, from a historically trivial point of view?
its not that last remaining line from the Derwent Grit Guide ('81 or '83 or something?) project list or something like that is it?
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point to dave
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As long as it's not some crap like "Master's Groove"
Keen Groove?
fern ill is very poor. it deserves a top name, something that stands out. sure JP will think of something, 'the promise' is a very cool name so im sure we'll be pleasantly surprised.
Agreed The Promise is a nice name, got a good vibe to it...
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How about "The Premise"?
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point to dave
kiss my face!
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Clip of James working the moves, from Committed http://www.climbmagazine.com/GrooveSm3.wmv
That voiceover is awful.
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Has "Grooverider" already been used?
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On second thoughts, there're probably thousands of grooves called that.
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Fern Britten?
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Philip Schofield.
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The Grover?
http://www.sesameworkshop.org/sesamestreet/?scrollerId=grover
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was that video of him toproping it on an ab-rope? (that fall looked painful). If so, is that common practice?
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Boutros Boutros Boutros
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You Tube?!
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Over the hill?
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You Tube?!
I'm no tube! You, sir, are the only tube here.
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I reckon it's got to be The Groove, or something unrelated. Bad puns ain't appropriate for this line.
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Reworking my previous suggestion:
Jimmy Ill.
but James probably hates being called Jim by fucking jock wankers almost as much as I do.
On the line of that previous discussion about how noone has ever been churlish enough to come up with arrogant names like Master's Wall, Edge or technical anymore, my next death route is going to be called Master Killer unless James wants the name, so there. Master Iller, even. God I love route names.
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What happened to umbongo Paz?!
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On the line of that previous discussion about how noone has ever been churlish enough to come up with arrogant names like Master's Wall, Edge or technical anymore, my next death route is going to be called Master Killer unless James wants the name, so there. Master Iller, even. God I love route names.
There's the classic Master Bates, but theres no way that could be applied to the "The Groove". What about going with the ultra-cheesey "Groovy"?
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3rd Ripple in(groove)
Groove St.
(Name both of those bands and you get a wad point.)
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Earthone9
Nightmares on Wax?
Maybe it should be called "Too hard for Mick Ryan"?
Is James under a gagging order? Ain't seen him round these parts recently.
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Ok. Here's a little trivia question for everyone. This is brilliant news, and really well done to James, but what is particularly important about this ascent, from a historically trivial point of view?
its not that last remaining line from the Derwent Grit Guide ('81 or '83 or something?) project list or something like that is it?
1985 guide - I seem to remember they all got potential E8 - including Kaluza-Klein & Knockin!
...wonder what lines will be left after the next Froggatt guide ?
...wall just left of Beau Geste? Smiling Butress? & ??
Si
:-\
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I squaw James watchin' :P . . . Guess he's like Thomas de Gay now . . . Lurking Thomas de Gay . . .
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What happened to umbongo Paz?!
It isn't a death route (that's what I'm telling myself and my co-climbers). What with the weather being so perfect last month I haven't quite got around to it yet. Skin's healed, feeling strong, have psyched young things to belay me who I can put off climbing forever, it will happen. And all the regular local newrouters from the old scene have assumed avon is worked out, or is at least too cold, or that there's more routes to do at cheddar. Either way, noone should have pulled any holds of it.
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Earthone9
Who? ;)
Dan you and your google-fu. And yes, it was Nightmares on Wax.
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My suggested name would be: Infernhill Affairs.
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My suggested name would be: Infernhill Affairs.
The day the world changed yeah. :bow:
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My suggested name would be: Infernhill Affairs.
The day the world changed yeah. :bow:
You got me there. ???
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it was just a plaudit.
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Oh right. Let you off then. ;D Thought it was some reference to something I didn't understand......or something.
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Infernhill Affairs.
Nice. We're going to have to find a new crag with a striking groove and something easy we can call Fern Hill to make use of these suggestions. There's no other lines to go on it are there, what goes up left of Shite hawk Owl Gully where Fern Hill goes left?
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There's a theoretical line up the seam / ripple right of and parallel to the groove.... :-\
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As top roped by myself, the start is ok to the break, then a mixture of hard and contrived. there is a lot of rock on this wall, but only one line through it all,
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Interesting to hear!
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This brings up the thorny issue of side runners though. It's a shame the gully's not narrow enough to do some of the huntsman's leap wall leaping hijinks pioneered by Wadi Crispin and big george.
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If you can reach it - it's in. As JB is fond of paraphrasing Redhead: play to your own parameters - fuck every one else! Like they're gonna breach the groove
*scoffs*
Fuck em.
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Just read this all. Nice work James.
How about Fern-tive Affair?
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You mean this thing is still unnamed?
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I expect the name will be revealed in an exclusive magazine deal in 6 months time.
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Magazine?
I was expecting it to be released on DVD in the follow up to Commited: Undecided . . .
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From the man himself. "Its just called the groove... its on my blog and everything..."