UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Pantontino on August 06, 2003, 05:48:14 pm
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The challenge is to simply do the following:
1. Jerry's Roof
2. The Barrel Traverse
3. Rock Atrocity
4. Sonic Boom
...not, I hasten to add, in a day, because that would be just showing off and if you're that fit you should be climbing harder anyway.
You'd think it would have been ticked by stacks of strong punters, but the only people I can think of who've done the deed are Nodder, Katz and Clemmow, but I'm sure you know different?
I've still got JR to go, so expect to see me camped out there in the autumn when I've lost some of this desk bound weight.
Despite the summer heat, happy snapper Ray Wood managed to do Jerry's Roof the other day; inspiring stuff. He even had 2 bottles of lager cooling in the river just in case he got it!
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What's the prize? A free guide?
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Okay, the first person to do it in a day, gets a free guide. If you've done it before you can't make a retro claim, the challenge starts today.
Independent witnesses and video footage (No fancy editing to cover up power dabs, or outright failure!) will be required of course. Failing that, a convincing character reference from your old headmaster will do.
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Now there's a challenge - Come on all you strong crew, get to it !!
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I've already failed (perhaps flailed would be more appropriate). Got to the last move on Rockattrocity on the flash and tried to do it all on the sloper, and ran out of steam on Jerry's.
How hard are the other two and where are they?
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I've only ever tried RA and JR. Fink i might stand a change on JR but not been there for over a year.
What would an equivalent peak list look like?
1. Powerband
2. Brad Pit
3. Ben's Wall
4. Westside Story
maybe? i dunno.
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D'ya think WSS?
PB would be V10 so perhaps too serious a proposition?
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well si's list was 7c 7b+ 7b+ 7c, and mine was 7c(?) 7c 7c 7b+ so its fair. they are all classics.
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Yeah Dave but all Si's probs are power endurance Classics. Powerband is the only one of yours that fits the bill. Those Welsh problems require just heaps of raw strength-I reckon your peak list is a bit Knacky.
I reckon- Powerband, moffatrossity, Jerry's Trav (plantation) and one other of a similar ilk.
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That long traverse on the Clifftop Boulder might fit the bill but not exactly a well known classic....
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Aye i get you.
A revised list could maybe be:
1. Powerband
2. Jerry's Traverse
3. Moffattrocity (is it hard enough?)
4. Jason's Low Lip Traverse (remergence)
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Moffatrocity fit the bill Perfectly- about the same difficulty exactly as the Barrel Traverse
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So what would the Yorkshire equivalent be?
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So what would the Yorkshire equivalent be?
The Keel
Demon Wall Roof
Larger Larger Larger
Sloper Patrol
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aye, but DWR is only about font 7a/+, and only sloper pastrol is power-stamina classic. I can't really think of any blindingly obvious 7b+/7c yorshire power-stamina classics, are there any, or is it just my knowledge of yorkshire bouldering is shite?
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aye, but DWR is only about font 7a/+, and only sloper pastrol is power-stamina classic. I can't really think of any blindingly obvious 7b+/7c yorshire power-stamina classics, are there any, or is it just my knowledge of yorkshire bouldering is shite?
Ahh Rons traverse at Ilkley, V8?
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Yorkshire:
Slopey Traverse at Almscliff
Angel Face at Woodhouse Scar
Jess' Roof at Almscliff
Access Denied at West Nab
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I reckon there'd be plenty of these sorts of problems in Northumberland too - Kyloe In must have a few?
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I remember seeing undertow at bowden and thinking that looked hard, dunno how hard is it mind. how about lippy bastard?
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And Lancashire
Screaming Slave L/H - V9 - Woodwell
Turbulence - V9 - Woodwell O'rt Road
Dannys Lip Traverse - V9 - Woodwell O'rt Road
Cloning Technology - V11 - Woodwell
Err bit Woodwell orientated
Speaking of which, when are you Peak boys going to come up for a play, beats this warm grit!
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Northumberland:
Cubby's Traverse at Kyloe in
Lippy Bastard at Bowden Doors
Pocket Traverse at Back Bowden
er...sds to Yorkshireman (a bit short and a bit too hard?)
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You people. I can't believe you reduced peak grit to that list of drivel.
Is shuffling sideways, desperately trying to keep your arse off the ground, really your idea of quality? I will die a happy man if I never do (or even try) Jerry's traverse. And as for powerband...
For yorkshire power-enduro I'd go for Ben's groove s-d every time. Plus its the best problem so far mentioned.
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You people. I can't believe you reduced peak grit to that list of drivel.
What would be your Peak list then?
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for something along the lines of the great rempart big four, how's about:
full t-crack (a la big boss?)
spare rib (a la tristesse?)
mushin' (a la big golden?)
careless torque (a la formis rouge?)
big more driving involved but similar overall difficulty i suspect
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they're not really power-endurance though.
In the peak if you want power endurance you're looking at traverses really i recon, unless the cave thing near birchen that Percy was on about is.
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I reckon T-crack and Mushin' are pretty much power endurance. The last move on t-crack is easy on its own, but not after climbing out to it. Mushin' just seems to get harder the further you get - and no footholds. However for 7b+/c one's too easy and one's too hard.
Whats with the whole power-enduro thing anyway? The best welsh problems fall into this category cos, (relative to grit) they ain't got the quality of move.
We have. It might make for 'knacky' problems but it beats getting pumped.
The Alliance is kinda tiring.
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is the alliance thing summert on burbage south then? inknow you explained it before but i'm non the wiser.....
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well from my experience of the big four at rempart, none of the problems could be described as power-enduro problems. so i guess it depends what your looking for - i was aiming for hard, classic and preferrably high problems with quality of moves (as opposed to number of moves)
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Those are fine criteria. The only traverses I ever do are NTBTA :wink: and the pebble girdle. They don't really inspire me generally.
The Alliance is in the froggatt guide - north end of Burbage south. Fills all of the above criteria. Its still quite cool up there in the mornings...
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Getting back to the original thread, I spoke to Mark Katz tonight and it turns out he hasn't done Sonic Boom yet. So its just Nodder and Clem standing on the podium so far.
Anybody fancy a bronze medal?
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Simon - where is Sonic Boom?
Bit of a catch-22 this, isn't it? I don't get a guide, if I don't do the problem, but can't do the problem without the guide.
Do we need a local on hand to make sure we don't use any illegal footholds on the barrel trav?
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I reckon T-crack and Mushin' are pretty much power endurance.
Ha Ha Ha. Hee Hee Hee. :shock: :shock:
No wonder we're all so crap at sport climbing if six moves tests your power endurance.
Where was I? Oh yeah, Ha Ha HA, He Heee HEee.
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Read the name of the site, midgets, and put the remark in its proper context!
To me the essence of bouldering is not girdle traverses of raventor without letting your arse scrape the ground.
Done Mushin' have you?
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Well, putting the reply into the context of a bouldering site then:
Problems like Rock Attrocity, or Jerry's Roof fall into a power endurance category. They seem to fit with the spirit of bouldering very nicely. Future problems like linking Lou Ferrino into Trigger Cut fall well and truly into the power endurance category, and seem to epitomise the spirit of bouldering.
What about long, classic problems like Martini Roof? Are they not "proper" bouldering?
Bouldering includes much more than five move problems, which simply don't test your power endurance (unless you don't have any). I see power endurance as an essential skill for a boulderer. Classic problems require it, and it helps you train harder and longer.
p.s
I did Mushin a while ago.
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Good effort on Mushin. Reach can no longer be an excuse for the rest of us. And you didn't get tired at all?
For a B7 climber, I don't think its unreasonable to call t-crack an introduction to power-endurance. That last move is well burly. I've seen loads of people work it fine but be unable to link it cos its too powerful after doing the start. That strikes me as a reasonable definition for power-endurance. For such a definition to have any meaning you need to apply it to people climbing near their limit.
I think big grit-style moves tire you quicker than crimpy limestone style. hence during the competition for the first ascent of the ben's groove s-d, several top climbers failed to do the easy, not particularly powerful top moves due to being knackered from less than 5 moves up ten foot of barely overhanging rock.
The problems you mention I don't know, apart from Jerry's roof, but strike me as sport climbing without ropes (is sean's roof bouldering?)
This is far too like cocktalk for me.
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Ahh, perhaps you're right. It's not exactly worth getting worked up over, is it?
I guess the only point I'd make is if you're actually powered out at the top of T-crack, rather than, say, being poorly set up on the sloper, then you could do with throwing a few power-endurance circuits into your bouldering sessions... :wink:
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being poorly set up on the sloper
or not using yer feet right..., or not using the cunning undercut...
but then it ain't at our limit.
Come on then, was Mushin really not tiring? How many goes did you get before it destroyed your skin? I've only really tried it once, and only got three goes before there was claret everywhere.
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Mushin wasn't tiring at all. I found it quite hard, and very frustrating to find it dry, but not tiring, no. I don't recall it being THAT tough on the skin either.
Have you been trying it in the middle of a heatwave?
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twas years ago, I can't remember the weather. But that first hold after the undercuts was well savage with one big, sharp crystal.
To get back on topic, is it really really good?
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Sonic Boom is easy to find (obvious r-l steep slopey traverse on far side of boulder field in Angel Bay) assuming you have a map and know that Angel Bay lies on the far side of Little Orme. I guess a guide would be a better solution. Apparently some bloke who lives in Llanberis is just about to unleash such a deadly addictive product onto an unsuspecting and vulnerable public (Has this man no morals!?).
Anyway, a rock star of your abilities would no doubt find the difficulties entailed in a successful ascent of SB to be at best trivial and at worst a mere annoyance. I on the other hand found it the living end, and fell off the final moves on numerous occasions before a change in the wind direction gave me that crucial victory nudge.
As for the Barrel Traverse: no rules anymore. All that eliminate bullshit is so early 90s. Do what you like, just as long as you pull on beneath the groove. V8+/7b+ is the consensus - numerous methods exist from fast and burly to tricky and intricate.
Glad that you've noticed the glaringly obvious lou Ferrino-Trigger Cut link. An awesome link awaiting an awesome climber.
Your Godrevy problems look hard, and pretty good too. Why don't you publicise them - a topo on this site, for example?
Cheers, Simon.
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Cheers for the info Simon.
You know, I was thinking about buying that guide, but I'm just not sure that there's enough good bouldering in Wales to justify it. I mean, isn't it just the cromlech boulders?
I'm so pleased all that eliminate crap has gone away. I remember making three seperate trips to the barrell, coming away pleased on each occasion, to be told, on each occasion, that I'd used some big foothold that wasn't on. Jeez!
I'm glad you liked Godrevy. The whole area really needs a little pamphlet detailing the boulders along the coast of cornwall, covering the areas from bude down to lands end. The trick is that each bit of coast has it's own locals, and some are quite cagey about giving away details to the crags. Also, I know Simon Young wants to produce his own guide to the stuff around Bude...
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A bude guide will be excellent....if it happens!!
Just been down to Northcott last week, its a top bouldering venue, you cant beat hot sun perfect rock and the sea. Some classy problems down there, 'the pinch' and 'red quinnie cave' are well worth seeking out!
stu, have you climbed down there a lot, didnt you repeat 'ache ball' a while back? looks nails! Good effort
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Chris,
The Culm coast is a smart place to boulder, isn't it?
I think I've done pretty much all of the harder documented problems down on the Culm coast now, but there's probably a great deal more around. With the publication of a guide, the area would be a good choice for a quick weekend raid in the summer. Good bouldering, surfing, beaches and BBQs. Sweet.
In the spirit of the thread, can I suggest a Culm Coast big 4? How about Clinical Edge, Carnage, Up To No Good and Red Quinnie. They'd all be four star problems anywhere in the UK, I reckon. A weekend tick of these four would be well worthwhile, and involve a lot of walking! A pint at the Hartland Quay Hotel to the first taker..
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Can you do us a Dartmoor big 4 too, Stu?
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A dartmoor big 4 is easy, bro:
1) Dancing Queen, Saddle Tor
2) Alan Smith, Hound Tor
3) Easdon Arete, Eason
4) Tsunami, Bonehill
all around 7b--7c+. That covers most problem types too. There's no way anyone new to the area could tick all those four in a weekend tho', there isn't that much skin in the whole world! Therefore I propose a "visitors course" of:
1) Rippled Wall, Bonehill
2) Bjorn Again, Saddle Tor
3) Wish, Hound Tor
4) Desire, Lustleigh Sacrifical Boulder (high!)
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Nice one :)
Now all we need is some Scottish and Irish Big-4's, some Southern Sandstone, and we've got the ultimate weekend ticklist for those well heeled boulderers who have a private helicoptor...
Glen Dale?
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Glen Dale?
Do they have to be Power Endurance?
Roughly 7b/7c?
Was there a video on climbxmedia about DG?
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/Special/people/graham/03.html
Does anyone have it?
What style are they ?
"Big Boss, Tristesse, Big Golden and Fourmis Rouge"
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Yeah, that's the idea - not seen that Dave Graham thing before, cheers for the link.
Not got that vid but I bet Mr Lincoln has though....
What's this one:
(http://www.planetmountain.com/english/Special/people/graham/images/19.jpg)
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thats deferlante which is a 7b-7a dyno in a pit (near haute tension?) at cuisiniere. it starts off little sharp crimps, slopey landing. I nearly did it on a font trip over a year ago, but splitting tips were hindering holding the starting holds (taped!) and i cut my hand on the lip hold which is just a very sharp jug. I think its a good problem if you're not in too much pain, but theres a lot better dynos around in font.
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That's why I asked, I was sure I'd seen it at Cuisiniere t'other week. Certainly looked nasty crimpy to start.
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Yeah, that's the idea - not seen that Dave Graham thing before, cheers for the link.
Not got that vid but I bet Mr Lincoln has though....
What's this one:
(http://www.planetmountain.com/english/Special/people/graham/images/19.jpg)
What vid is that?
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Was there a video on climbxmedia about DG?
Does anyone have it?
That one - not sure what is was called, but it was DG in Font.
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thats was the one of him crimping the tits off Duel etc. I think its one that'll be on doseage 2 if it ever comes out.
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Was there a video on climbxmedia about DG?
Does anyone have it?
That one - not sure what is was called, but it was DG in Font.
Oh aye, i remember, proper bo it was too!
Ill have a look
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What vid is that?
twas called, quite simply, "Four from Font"
i've got it on my hard drive at home and could be convinced to sling a link up for a short while - my bandwidth wouldn't handle too many downloads
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How big is it? Once we've got a few copies we can share 'em out....
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Does anyone have it?
What style are they ? "Big Boss, Tristesse, Big Golden and Fourmis Rouge"
if you've not managed to lay your hands on it yet let me know - it's uploading to my site as we speak
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Cheers Stu - I can grab it when I get home tonight....
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What style are they ?
"Big Boss, Tristesse, Big Golden and Fourmis Rouge"
all highballz
Big Boss (http://bleau.info/rempart/324.html) is butch undercutting to a pocket finish, pumpy by all accounts.
Tristesse (http://bleau.info/rempart/335.html) is a slightly overhanging pillar, big moves of poor holds, slabs out at half way (top looks about E1)
BIg golden (http://bleau.info/rempart/338.html) is bulge climbing on little edges/slopes i think.
Fourmis rouge (http://bleau.info/rempart/340.html) is "easy" looking groove to a high finish on poor slopers (crux).
the "big" in "Big four" comes from the fact they are all high, intimidating, hard and all within 12feet of each other. I've never tried any of them, bit scouse has so will be of more use on this one.
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Cheers Stu - I can grab it when I get home tonight....
will PM you the link to get it - can you then distribute it via your P2P stuff - too many downloads would kill my bandwidth - its a 60mb file!
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Tristesse is the most straightforward- and allthough it's Big- the hard climbing is all low down.
Big Boss is butch,steep and high with a tricky finish on small pockets.
Foumis Rouge i havn't tried but its an awkward finger crack to a high slopey tussle.
Big golden starts as steep jug pulling into a bulge which is tackled on small gastons and crimps.
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Got the video - thanks Stu :D
I see what Dave means when he says "crimping the tits of duel" :shock:
Can share it on p2p, but can't put it up on ukb coz it's climbXmedia's, even though they've gone under.