UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on December 19, 2007, 09:42:29 pm
-
Having somehow managed to get my 3 big bouldering goals for the winter done in the last 5 days ;D, I'm thinking - shockingly - of actually doing some stuff i'm shit at and not sacking it off after 2 goes because i'm failing and it's only 6b. Had a quick archive search but couldn't see that much, so what would everyone advise as the best slab and crack problems, everything from easy up to 7bish?
Ta
-
Crack problems? Not sure there are many, maybe the 5.10/5.11 roof cracks at burbage? Strawberries?
Slabs, more to go at. Satin should be top of your list, I guess the best are all microroutes, the one on the pebble is good, downhill racer start, check the list in Ru's guide.
-
Off the top of my head, I'd say Honorary Caley at Stanage ain't too bad for a tricky slab, though if your experience is anything like mine it'll try your patience and waste your tips. While you're there the two slabs to the right of Cresent Arete RHS are worth a go as well.
JB's right you know - Ru's guide has a list for each climbing / rock type at the back.
-
good point, had forgotten the bits at the back..
-
Satin should be top of your list
I'll second that - quality....
-
Good Slabs that aren't in Ru's top ten:
Elmer Fudd, Baslow
The Tiny lab right of remergence
Scratch Scoop at Burbage South
Classic Arete Problem, Burbage South
Green Death Super Direct, Millstone
Dry Wit in a Wet Country, RHS
The Andle Stone Slab, Stanton
Chicken Ninja, Stanton
Good Cracks:
Fish Boy, Wharncliffe
Picalli's Pickle, Robin Hood's Stride
The Jackalope, Moorside Rocks
-
I'd respectfully suggest:
1. The one to the right of the right hand version of crescent arete,
2. What a way to spend easter (strangely compelling)
3. the ones above and to the right of wall end slab at Stanage
4. fear and loathing, jsut for the gibber
5. nighmare slab and DIY etc or what ever those couple of highball v3/4 slabs are around the causeway
-
Jackaloupe is good. Some turks layback it, but if you know what you're doing you'll take it face on....
Other cracks, hmmm, I supose it's a little like what JW rattles on about in Best forgotten art, when he says you need to seek out the jams. There are definatley a lot of problems which require a jam or two, if you can break through the barrier to Western grit then 'Leather Joy Boys' is a must at Newstones, a real gem in the form of a kind of mini highball, at the same crag is a route called 'Puffed Up' with a hard jamming move on it, I've only led it, but I'm sure it'll succumb to a few pds and spotters.
I think the problem with the cracks is that they tend not to get recorded. We once jammed out of the 'attic' at the Roaches, that was good, and there is a similar problem in that tubular cave above jerry's arete at Robin Hood's stride.
Slabs, loads of em, but one thing sticks in my mind...... A few years ago Pete Harrop (Mark Sharratt's uncle and friend to the stars) came over to stay. He's done a lot of climbing in his time all over the world. Mark thought 'I'll show him' in a prodigal son kind of way. So, Mark starts oiking his way up the Pebbles on Catastrophe International. He slaps onto the boss and pulls over the top on the heather. At the top he turns around to have a look at his astounded uncle, but instead see's a dead pan mother's brother who spits out 'you keep climbing slabs and you'll grow tits'.
And you know, he was right.
-
The sping boulders at the Roaches have some great slabs. Did a nice obscurity at Stanage a few weeks ago called Beauty - worth seeking out. Didn't see you'd asked re: eastern grit but the Roaches aren't that far and if you're over there are really good slabs on the back of Ramshaw
-
Cracks, how could I forget - look at me, cratcliffe middle, classic. The one on RHS is bigger but has less of a start and finish. Boysen's crack on the block round to the right of sweet thing has only one jam move but its a good 'un.
Whillan's start to Janker's groove - fifties 6b?
-
'look at me'. good problem
-
i'm car-less so eastern is much easier on the bus.. plus if i get over to the roaches and it's dry it's gonna be all about painted rumour..
cheers for the ideas.
had a look at 'look at me' last time i wsa at cratcliffe but decided against it when i realised you seemed to have to pick which way your head faces becasue i didn't think i'dbe able to turn it round for most of the problem! crazyness.. will have to give it a go next time though..
-
'you keep climbing slabs and you'll grow tits'.
genius!
-
A few more cracks:
The Abyss, Rowtor
The Cracks in the roof right of Velvet Crab
The Womb-Get In!
-
Barrows - found this little beauty at Brimham last week: http://mrctomlinson.googlepages.com/brim1.JPG/brim1-full.jpg
dunno what its called or grade (but its prob english 5b), but you start up the crack you can see to the right then the left of the roof on underclings, is well good. ps. you are a cock and I hate you and i'm still ill, and the weather is amazing.
-
A great crack is the start to Snug as a Thug at the Cowperstone, as far as the flutings.
-
Barrows - found this little beauty at Brimham last week: http://mrctomlinson.googlepages.com/brim1.JPG/brim1-full.jpg
dunno what its called or grade (but its prob english 5b), but you start up the crack you can see to the right then the left of the roof on underclings, is well good. ps. you are a cock and I hate you and i'm still ill, and the weather is amazing.
isn't that like a sit start to beatnik.if your including brimham.the sitter to minions way is good one to test your crack climbing skills on.there are lots of others but you need a guided tour to find them.
-
looks like beatnik to me. Even the standing start to minions is hard.
-
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/comments.html?id=brimham__jokers_roof
Think its this, but this reckons V4/V5? No way is it that hard.
-
'nicotine stain' is a classic thing (slab and crack), 'finger distance', far skyline slabs are ace (that right hand slabby flake thing, and 'entropy's' if you're feeling brave), 'fatworld', 'pig's ear' and is 'no more excuses' a slab? - 'pup' and 'puss' are sweet and not easy (stanage, not far from 'beauty') - 'unreachable star' is an ace crack, and the thin crack by 'pig heart boy' (froggatt) is well cool......
-
Hi Al. For anyone feeling adventurous I did a good slab on a block under Howshaw Tor years ago - 'How Sure?' seemed a good name.
-
Having somehow managed to get my 3 big bouldering goals for the winter done in the last 5 days Grin
Come on, indulge us, what were they then?
-
as i think Andy B mentioned earlier, the 7b wall/slab on the andler stone at Stanton moor is excellent! Well worth the drive if you can get a lift....
-
Come on, indulge us, what were they then?
westside, blind date, and 'a 7c'..
blind date went last saturday (saw you at remergence i think, i was there in a blue jacket getting spanked on warm ups at the time); then managed blind fig and WSS (finally!) thanks to more perfect conditions and a skipped lecture on wednesday.
Cheers for all the recommendations, will have to try some out after christmas
-
How was the top out on WSS? :whistle:
-
5bish.. get back to the tipex!
-
as i think Andy B mentioned earlier, the 7b wall/slab on the andler stone at Stanton moor is excellent! Well worth the drive if you can get a lift....
It is good but anyone thinking this is a slab... or anything like a slab needs a good :spank:
-
In order of difficulty (and certainly not quality!) the following cracks/jamming should keep you amused:
20 ft Crack (Burbage)
Great Slab Roof Crack (Froggatt)
The Abyss (Rowtor)
Look at Me (Cratcliff/RHS)
Definitive 5.12 (Burbage)
Jam and Blast It (Rowtor)
Definitive 5.11 (Burbage)
The Kursk (Burbage)
Savage Me Softly (Cowper)
Jackaloupe (Moorside)
Picalli's Pickle (Robin Hood's Stride)
Zippatrocity (Cowper)
Bob Marley Extension (Cowper)
Good luck with that new-found technique!
-
Tom, are you around on Saturday morning for a potential millstone visit?
-
Another good slab is the 7a round the corner from Ben's Wall at Robin Hood's Stride.
Exactly where are:
The Kursk at Burbage?
Jam and Blast It at Rowtor?
-
What does Myles' Slab at Wimberry get nowadays? 7b-ish isn't it?
-
I did a good slab on a block under Howshaw Tor years ago - 'How Sure?'
hi andy, sounds good - wilderness bouldering indeed
happy christmas old man :)
-
miles slab 7b+
-
H8+
-
miles slab 7b+
Wrong spelling and wrong grade. :-[
-
What does Myles' Slab at Wimberry get nowadays? 7b-ish isn't it?
miles slab 7b+
Wrong spelling and wrong grade.
Why the fuck do you ask then?
For the record, Miles (http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=102) is spelt with an I, so dense just missed an apostrophe whereas you spelt it wrong. As for the grade, I wouldn't argue with easy 7b+. May feel 7b in very good nick but don't they all.
-
Why the fuck do you ask then?
I fucking asked because I wasn't sure what the consensus was.
For the record, Miles (http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=102) is spelt with an I, so dense just missed an apostrophe whereas you spelt it wrong. As for the grade, I wouldn't argue with easy 7b+. May feel 7b in very good nick but don't they all.
I didn't make a comment regarding apostrophes.
I spelt it wrong (and admitted so) and was glad to be corrected.
7b if you have it wired eh?
PS. Thanks Dense, your comment was useful.
-
Ah I see, your post rather appeared like a reply to Dense, rather than a reply to yourself. My mistake.
-
:kiss1:
-
i rarely use punctuation or capitols. feel free to pull me up on this but don't think i don't know :shrug: