UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Dolly on December 15, 2007, 08:15:53 pm
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I talked to fatdoc about 11.30 on his way back from a sadly wet Burbage S.
Did anyone find any cold dry rock ?
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Friction at Rowtor was fanastic today, though a few of the topouts were lethal. Cratcliffe would have been good too. Clear blue sky and bone dry rock when I drove past the Roaches/Ramshaw at 11am this morning.
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Obviously not the Eastern Peak, but the Roaches were mostly dry today, and in good nick, but very cold with an icy wind. Ramshaw didn't look quite as dry and was glowing luminous green, but there were two people climbing there.
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Dr T did Banana Finger Reverse, but said everything else was wet.
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plenty to do at burb north. ice on top of some stuff. things icy rather than wet.
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Secret Garden was all spot on apart from the side wall right of Dick Williams.
Gardom's North was pretty good in general, Moorside Rocks looked similar.
I know someone who did several routes at Lawrencefields.
Burbizzle Sizzle and Gardom's South looked ming.
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you're all cunts.
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I realise it's a bit late, but do people think stanage plantation will be dry tomorrow morning? I'm not asking for crystal ball shit, just what you think if you were out today. Ta.
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Was pucker down the Churnet, and Baltic at the Roaches late afternoon!
Plantation tmo? Either gonna be damp under the cloud OR glassy as hell if the sun pops out!
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I realise it's a bit late, but do people think stanage plantation will be dry tomorrow morning? I'm not asking for crystal ball shit, just what you think if you were out today. Ta.
I doubt it very much. The whole of Stanage was plastered in thick haw frost, the likes of which i haven't seen in some years. The temperature didn't lift all day, so it will be the same for Sunday. Plenty of other places in good condition tough, so all is not lost.
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Not only managed to get out, but did my first 7b+ too ;D some of plantation must've been ok yesterday cos one of my mates told me he did deliverance.. Some of north was ok: remergence bit, bannana fingers, apparantly terrace, west was ok but bitter in the breeze..
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go on mate, do tell....
was it WSS???
that haw frost was awesome, but it ruined any chances for me to climb this weekend >:(
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na, blind date.. got on westside again after.. and.... fell off the same move again. on the bright side, i didn't fall off before that move but still struggling to find a way to move that left foot and i've bruised my 'pebble finger' from trying too hard to hold on:(
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Conditions were the best since winter before last, improved as the day went on. Some spots of ice on B north but nothing to stop the motivated, by the end of the day all remergence area was dry, plus Striker, Terrace, Banana finger etc. Conditions more than made up for the odd ice spot. Burb W ALL in VERY good nick except for initial arete which always ices up.
Off to the plantation now, will be very surprised if there's not some very grippy rock.
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not really the peak, but honourary peak cos its ace, Caley must have been climbable cos Ed did Zoo York yesterday!! have somme waddage!
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obviously not the peak, but almscliff was amazing yesterday. caley was under mist and cloud so much waddage for that zoo york send. was at caley thursday.. very frosty all day.. lots not climbable because of damp / frosty topouts, but what was climbable was in amazing nick...
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I realise it's a bit late, but do people think stanage plantation will be dry tomorrow morning? I'm not asking for crystal ball shit, just what you think if you were out today. Ta.
I doubt it very much. The whole of Stanage was plastered in thick haw frost, the likes of which i haven't seen in some years. The temperature didn't lift all day, so it will be the same for Sunday.
Hope you didn't pay any attention to this, plantation today was as good friction as I have ever experienced - real cheating conditions. There was some hoar, but mainly on the crag. The few topouts it did affect could easily have been rendered climbable with five minutes effort, in fact I did two without bothering to clean them. Amazing nick.
that haw frost was awesome, but it ruined any chances for me to climb this weekend Angry
Plantation tmo? Either gonna be damp under the cloud OR glassy as hell if the sun pops out!
WTF are you guys on? What does it take to get you out, blue skies? Ah well, keeps the crags quiet I guess.
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I must confess that I wasn't convinced how Saturday's conditions would be when I was driving back from Hathersage on Friday night through freezing fog, light drizzle, and masses of frost forming. I think it's natural to be a bit put off, was quite surprised just how good it was. SYKED now ;)
I mostly agree with Dave ;D
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The few topouts it did affect could easily have been rendered climbable with five minutes effort, in fact I did two without bothering to clean them.
LOOK AT ME
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We ended up at the Plantation as well. Where it was dry it was awesome conditions as said.
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plantation today was as good friction as I have ever experienced - real cheating conditions.
Wtf are you wtfing about? Bitterly cold it might have been, but there was a slight dampness in the air, and on the rock, which made it far from 'best ever'. It seems to me you're getting a bit carried away when proving points.
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Couldn't agree more with those FACTS. The best conditions day EVER was when I pulled onto the Joker for 20 minutes. I couldn't pull on at all on Sunday, which proves the point. Oh my god I was soooo FLAMBOYANT that day!!!!!!!
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The best conditions day EVER was when I pulled onto the Joker for 20 minutes.
Thats beastly hanging on there for 20 minutes, did you top out or drop off? ;)
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I'm still a firm believer in the fact that it doesn't need to be freezing temperatures for the best conditions. Wind and humidity make a greater affect on the conditions. Too cold and not only are your fingers and toes numbing, but the rock ends up feeling glassy and your skin feels shiny. Best conditions I've ever felt have been on days when the temperature has been around 7 degrees or so. Needless to say, I climbed both days this weekend and it was good, but it was too cold.
Given these supposedly 'awesome/cheating' conditions this weekend, did anyone get anything amazing done or did any long standing projects fall? Surely that would be the proof in the pudding...
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I'm still a firm believer in the fact that it doesn't need to be freezing temperatures for the best conditions. Wind and humidity make a greater affect on the conditions. Too cold and not only are your fingers and toes numbing, but the rock ends up feeling glassy and your skin feels shiny. Best conditions I've ever felt have been on days when the temperature has been around 7 degrees or so.
fully agree with you there word. too cold and the body doesn't work. reckon it was a bit damp this weekend. try telling that to The Point Prover though. no chance.
it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.
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that dreadlocked lothario Dan Bradley from Nottingham managed the joker in under 10 goes on saturday. looked piss
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Couldn't agree more with those FACTS. The best conditions day EVER was when I pulled onto the Joker for 20 minutes. I couldn't pull on at all on Sunday, which proves the point. Oh my god I was soooo FLAMBOYANT that day!!!!!!!
Care to elaborate? What does FLAMBOYANT mean etc?
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a floating flam? but whats a flam?
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[
fully agree with you there word. too cold and the body doesn't work....
it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.
Definitely, either that or we're getting soft. It seems obvious to me that friction doesn't just get better and better as the air gets colder and colder. At some point in the last twenty years a rumour has started saying that it needs to be freezing and this has perpetuated into what many now believe to be fact. Mind you, it's great for excuses 'it's not cold enough, it's not cold enough, it's not cold enough, it's too cold'
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it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.
I went up the Roaches on sat and saw lots of frosty shits.
Was windy as fook tho, started on't upper tier with 'Drunk enough' and 'Too drunk' then retreated down the steps to 'The Gutter' a logical progression I think?
:pissed:
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In my experience, as long as you can get warm and stay warm friction pretty much does improve with decreasing temperature. Obviously humidity is the next most important factor. Wind can give or take, if the air is warm it improves things, if its cold I find it chills you too much to take advantage of the colder conditions.
I honestly believe conditions on sunday were as good as I've ever experienced. I got a new highpoint on the joker and the pocket on Careless felt as good as it ever has. And of course (and the real clincher) deliverance traverse was PISS! I saw you path it too Kershaw.
Every year I get more convinced that 'glassy' is purely a skin issue and not related to the rock condition. The skin issue is related to temps though, so I guess the key is to warm up more than normal and try to keep the tips warm.
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That's what was needed. SCIENCE. :-\
I found it a bugger to warm-up and balancing out numbness with sweatless tips, but when the fingers felt right it did feel very good, despite the haze and stuff.
it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.
Word to that. The veins of ice tinkling off the tree branches around the Secret Garden were particularly charming. Proper winter is great :)
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Here's my Science behind it:
Boots stick better when they are warmer than the rock. The rubber warms up from your feet inside the boot, hence if your feet are well cold, the rubber won't warm up and the effect is lost. It's all about that difference in temperature that matters.
Glassy skin, yeah, that's down to skin moisture. I need to spit on my hands when it's really cold to moisten them up, if the air is moist though this does the job. There seems to be a certain coldness when i can no longer get my hands properly warm.
With this in mind, there seems to me, personally, to be a sweet point between warm and cold as opposed to just more cold = more better.
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Glassy skin, yeah, that's down to skin moisture. I need to spit on my hands when it's really cold to moisten them up, if the air is moist though this does the job. There seems to be a certain coldness when i can no longer get my hands properly warm.
Word! I always have to spit on my hands when its cold, gets rid of the glassyness. Its definatley a skin issue. I've been trying to get people to believe me for years now.
At last someone else has seen the light. You have more than made up for your mistakes on the patio thread - have some + karma from me
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Boots stick better when they are warmer than the rock. The rubber warms up from your feet inside the boot, hence if your feet are well cold, the rubber won't warm up
Word...
My tips for nice toasty sticky boots are:
- Instead of driving to the crag with them in your sack in the boot, take them out and put them on the dashboard so the car heater warms them up. (This can have the nasty side effect of making the car stink mind...)
- Once you get to the crag, stick 'em inside your duvet under your arms on the walk in.
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- Instead of driving to the crag with them in your sack in the boot, take them out and put them on the dashboard so the car heater warms them up. (This can have the nasty side effect of making the car stink mind...)
Isn't this tip in the 'purple' Font guide too?
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No idea as I don't own one ... perhaps they heard it from me ;)
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don't mess about with all that, just hyperventilate into them before putting them on
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I do both
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I walk in with boots inside my coat to warm them up. They get much warmer and less moist than the breathing into them deal, (although this works well to rewarm them mid session). I lick my glassy tips to make the skin stick better when its cold - this freaks a lot of people out, but works for me. As a rule, anything below 4 degrees is too cold for good friction between rock and skin in my experience, and with my dry, thick skin.
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I lick my glassy tips to make the skin stick better when its cold - this freaks a lot of people out, but works for me.
I got laughed at when I first discovered this by accident when squeaking my boots one winter and have done it secretly since then - never quite sure whether I was merely carrying out some superstitious, neurotic ritual. I am so relieved that it is now acceptable to come out about such things.
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Now look what youve gone and done AndiT, their all coming out of the closet now!
Finger licking good :P
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Back on topic...
Yes. Burbage South was fuckin' mint. Beautiful active rest day. Lovely sunset. Ahhhh. :thumbsup:
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gonna be astounding for days...
saw on sight of the knock, and nosfaratu.... i was bouldering... real good... doesnt have to be freezing to be sticky some days!!!
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Absolutely sweltering :thumbsdown:
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should have got out early then ;)
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Anyone know what the weather's doing Peakwards today? It's nice where I am North of the city. Quite cold and sunny / patchy cloud.
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Possibility of a shower, but wind should dry it off. I'm keen to get out as early as poss and will hopefully have a charged up lamp to take... where d'ya fancy?
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I'm still trying to work out if I can justify fucking off from work early which basically I cant but might do anyway. Will let you know.
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A little warm to start off with but went cold as it was going dark
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was cool but a bit greasy at savage garden tonight. lack of breeze etc.
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A little warm to start off with but went cold as it was going dark
Yeah. Brilliant conditions as the sun was going down. And still light enough to climb (just) at 18.00. ;D
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Jim was still climbing at 18:30, no torch, no lantern just an iron will.
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Jim was still climbing at 18:30, no torch, no lantern just an iron willy
Yes, childish I know.
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correct on both counts.
Nevermind freddie star eating your hamster, rocket man ate my hand. Rob smith - you owe me a new hand
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A little warm to start off with but went cold as it was going dark
Yeah. Brilliant conditions as the sun was going down. And still light enough to climb (just) at 18.00. ;D
In fact, so good that Jasper attempted to climb Play Hard without the crack!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Zr9843eE4
filmed in night mode without extra lighting
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Dude's been on a rack! Look at those Elle McPherson legs! :o
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Attempt before that I was much closer to doing it. Got the slopey top static. Bounced to the good bit and was so surprised that I'd actually got my hand over it I fucking dropped it. :furious: :rtfm: :wall: Grumble, grumble, skin destroying bastard, moan, whinge etc........
Dude's been on a rack! Look at those Elle McPherson legs! :o
Show me the way to the compliments thread. That's the best I've ever had! ;D
EDIT - lagers - I'm excited to see that that video is the 63rd highest viewed on youtube today..............in the "Pet's And Animals" section!? ??? :lol:
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EDIT - lagers - I'm excited to see that that video is the 63rd highest viewed on youtube today..............in the "Pet's And Animals" section!? ??? :lol:
well there isn't a "lanky ladyboy" section...
up to 50th place now - there are 49 animals more cute than you today
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39th place now. Dude, you rock in the world of cute/funny pets!
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25th place now!
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Did anyone get out today? Thinking of heading over there tomorrow, just wonderin if there was much snow or owt.
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Amazing conditions up at Upper Edale Rocks today - kinda sheltered from the icy gale but still nice and crisp and bone dry. Dunno what happened when the snow came in later on.
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Bit of a mixed bag for Mrs Tone and I - went to Over Owler Tor and it was blowing a very icy gale so we sacked it off. Nearly got blown over a few times walking past Mother Cap so we decamped to Burbage North / Bridge, where we managed to get a few bits done inbetween the hail / snow this afternoon.
Think if it's not too mild tomorrow it'll be OK, but the BBC forecast is for "Heavy Showers", though make of that what you will.
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Churnet was OK (it's still in the Peak) but not OK if you know what I mean
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Anyone get out today, wonderin if its worth making the trek over tomorrow.
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stoney was dry.
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Yesterday all grit was in great nick by late afternoon. Today is looking toss.
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stoney was dry.
i need my *first day of spring* session at minus ten, working too much and not playing enough >:(
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minus 10 was overly dry and glassy, georges wall was wet, Burbage North was dry and mostly climbable for most of the afternoon, but not fantastic nick, with some dampness in breaks and sunny spells heating the rock.
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thanks, I'll to minus ten this week with a bit of luck!
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Absolutely baltic at Burbizzle West this evening, felt like the coldest all winter in the breeze. So much so that self-appointed "Lord Of Sweat" Fiend kept his t-shirt on, whilst the New Ron Fawcett was seen being too cold to put rockboots on....
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My weekly conditions request, as per usual. Thinking of heading to Rowtor tomorrow, was it alright Eastside today?
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Roaches was mainly dry but very windy, and there are nesting peregrine falcons on the upper tier so thats off limits.
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Weather was fine yesterday, terrible today
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Anyone know what it's like Eastern Peakwards today? The forecasts keep telling me it's supposed to be brightening up into a nice pm/evening but it's grim here at Chapeltown and seems to be getting grimmer. :-\
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Foggy/ slightly drizzly around the uni (western sheffield) and looking less optimistic than I'd hoped...
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looks dogshit at the mo(fo) but forecast to clear up nicely later, which remains to be seen. i'm cautiously optimistic. if it does clear its likely to be warm and very little wind.
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if it does clear its likely to be warm and very little wind.
and you're still cautiously optimistic? ::)
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yeah, optimistic that the tor will be in nick. ;)
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looks dogshit at the mo(fo) but forecast to clear up nicely later, which remains to be seen. i'm cautiously optimistic. if it does clear its likely to be warm and very little wind.
That's how it was last night at Baslow. But was nice up at the Eagle Stone thanks to a bit of breeze
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Met office bang on so far. The sun's fighting it's way through here now.
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The air temperature at the plantation last night was pleasantly cool but the rock was toasty warm after a day in the sun (except for the Brad Pit Wall).
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Bit damp at Trackside ths a.m. ..... But things are definitely looking better for later ....
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yeah, optimistic that the tor will be in nick. ;)
Probably wrong thread but the tor was in its usual half wet half dry state last night. The effects of the full on sun nullified by what appeared to be some major new seepage coming thru on Mon.
Powerband sort of dry, 2nd slot soggy but driable, foothold on middle section running with water but salvageable with towel. Foothold on matchbox rockover on Pinches wet but driable, u no the score.
I will copy this to the other thread.
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Sun is shinning loverly in the mcr now. Just finishing off some gardening then a team of manchester all stars are off to tear hobson moor up
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I can see a line of blue sky coming towards Sheff
:bounce:
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infact never mind hobson moor, wimberry it is
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Looking peakwards from my office window it would appear to be a rather good day to be out - there would appear to be a decent breeze as well.
bluebrad
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No climbing this evening, still injured but the conditions tonight were far too good to be going for a pint.
Tomorrow looks like a cracking day too.
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still injured
your ankles still nicely swollen then...
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It's been pissing down but has finally stopped
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Is it worth making the trip, seems to have cleared up here in Mancunia, what's it like t'other side?
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Is it worth making the trip, seems to have cleared up here in Mancunia, what's it like t'other side?
Just had a shower pass over and looking out the window clouds are passing from east to west. Not looking hopeful :(
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Cheer's mate, Broughton power temple it is.
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so not happening..
warm, humid... and just thundered.... big rain...
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There's a good breeze and plenty of sunshine. Showers have been short lived if heavy. Plenty of dry rock on the edges.
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There's a good breeze and plenty of sunshine. Showers have been short lived if heavy. Plenty of dry rock on the edges.
Was thinking that myself now, shame I didn't have one of these a few hours ago...
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/PokerStick/crystal_ball.jpg)
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You hardly need that, just watch a weather forecast the night before. If you want further confirmation, check the radar in the morning. Amazes me how folk rush to the wall just because of a cloudburst at half ten.
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You hardly need that, just watch a weather forecast the night before. If you want further confirmation, check the radar in the morning. Amazes me how folk rush to the wall just because of a cloudburst at half ten.
This is so true. In the past few years I've realised that rain, even for several hours, does not necessarily mean a write off. In font, Danny and I would sleep until mid afternoon through heavy, heavy rain, then wait a few hours, head to a windy crag and get the best conditions.
As for today, I waited until the wind was a blowin, and I was sure the rock would be dry... then I went on my board.
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After reading the Met office forecast properly, and noticing the phrase 'dry in the east', I got out today after all, for some top class puntering at Birchen. Awesome.
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This thread left off about the time I stopped climbing for the summer. I've started again and I used to like this thread, so I'll start it up again.
I didn't get out till 5.30 so rushed up to Mother Cap for the last bit of light. Did Conan a few times and thoroughly enjoyed myself - decent friction and not too windy. Nice bit of sunset and a lovely moon rising over Burb South.
Jasper got out and managed the 7b traverse into Strawberries at Curbar. Apparently The Eagle Stone had a muddy lake under it.
Anyone else get out?
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A day hiding from showers up near the Unconquerables at Stanage. Quick drying rock between the showers, managed Pot Black, Calvary and Comet.
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Got out to Froggatt this afternoon.
Artless was mingingly greasy, but Oedipus and Narcissus were mint.
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Bounced around a few things at Apparent North ..... Not completely dry , but still worthwhile .... Heading out t' Stride/Cratcliffe in't morning .....
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Must get round to coming to do your Apparant North circuit, Crumpy. You around next week?
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I will indeed be spending a rare week in Sheffield .... Free most days until 14.30 after which Crumpys major and minor take me in hand for a bit of physical and mental abuse ..... All of wednesday is also on the cards ..... Come and join me t'would be good to see y'all .....
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RHS and Cratcliffe were both in good condition , although there was a bit of midge activity at the latter , have they started wrapping up warm for winter ?..... Burbage South (today) was very pleasant although some of the problems were a bit 'scrittly' ( a fine jaspersharpe word describing the movement of loose grit under your shoes ) ......
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If the weather holds I'm going to be at Apparent North tomorrow attempting the sit start to my own 8b+ problem 'melton mowbray' ....
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I'm up for it, Grumpy.
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Mmmmm will there be pork pies available??
(*topically - NO, not those sort of "pork pies", sheesh)
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I'll be there from about 3.30 ...... The 'cirque d' porc' starts at the top of the path with the classic 8a slab 'hand raised' .... A full buffet will be provided , bring your own plates and cutlery ......
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Hope to see you on "The Porkies Circuit" later, Grumpy. Should I bring wine or beer?
I'm hoping to do Sausage Time and maybe The Crackling Traverse.
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Has anyoe been out today?
Its currently wet in MCR but am going to head over in an hour or so unless I hear that its fucked
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It's fucking glorious out of my office window but I'm in Northern Sheff so might be different out that way. Rainfall radar looks good though.
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Looking pretty nice here in Fulwood, just depends if the rains going to follow you over from Manchester I guess.
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Its currently wet in MCR
Shouldn't this be in the news section? Mods?
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STOP PRESS: Manchester in "weather as usual" SHOCKER!!!!
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It has rained on and off in Hathersage this morning. The roads are currently still a bit damp but they are drying.
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Hope to see you on "The Porkies Circuit" later, Grumpy. Should I bring wine or beer?
I'm hoping to do Sausage Time and maybe The Crackling Traverse.
For a bottle of weisse beer I'll show you the intracies of Brat(wurst) Pit .....
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I'll bring a bottle of bock (wurst) beer.
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so... did anyone manage to climb today? I'm still trying hard to make sure I go out instead of in, so I spent this afternoon at trackside, conditions were poor. I know Jon had a little more luck but where else might have been a good bet on a day like today? (please don't say the works).
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Wondered the same thing and ended up at the Tor, which was not bad at all.
Board session tomorrow if it's gopping
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I was at Curbar too. Trackside was in poor condition. Bimbled on the mini prow which was dry. Gorilla warfare was damp. Back down to trackside where conditions were improving then the rain came about 3ish. Considered the ever dry burglar buttress (probably only of interest to punters) at Bell Hagg but no one else was interested and we ended up at...guess where... the works.
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At first we left the pads in the car but after about 30mins of wandering we decided it was worth a look, WRONG!
The tor would have been my first point of call but I had Nat in two and its still a little tricky for her unfortunately. Drop me a text we timings tomorrow Dylan. I've also got Tues-fri next week if you fancy getting out at some point?
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fo sho
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Almscliffe.
Not that I'm the biggest fan of it...
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But the company made up for that ;)
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Since when was Almscliffe in the Eastern Peak? :lol:
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:-\ :shrug:
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Ummm yes. Well. It was somewhere that was in condition. As was evidenced by the massive amount of crushage going on :whistle:
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I'm just jealous because you seem to have crushed today and tomorrow I'm going there to sit in the rain >:( Bloody weather.
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minus ten was in fine nick on saturday.
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How's it looking over there, is it worth me going over the snake?
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Dry at the moment in Hathersage. Roads are dry too, and its quite breezy.
Lots of greyish looking cloud though so rain wouldn't be a huge shock.
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What's the knowledge regarding snow? In my experience, including today, everything still seems to get wet. Any guaranteed 'snow-proof' venues?
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What's the knowledge regarding snow? In my experience, including today, everything still seems to get wet. Any guaranteed 'snow-proof' venues?
Depends not so much on snow per se, but the temperature (and sunlight) after snow, all a bit hit and miss, best to just check it out, countryside is always pretty covered in snow anyway.
Any guaranteed 'snow-proof' venues?
Indoors :P
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Hi Oli have you looked at this?:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10577.0/topicseen.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10577.0/topicseen.html)
Reckon it'll be good tomorrow though doubt I'll be able to join you.
:boohoo:
Cheers Jon
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Seemed pretty bad generally today. Didn't find any dry rock at Plantation around lunch time. So headed to remergence block which was wetter than expected. Arete problem soaking so hard to get warmed up. Other bits dry - blind date/fig climbable by later in the afternoon (despite some idiot snowballing the blind fig sloper) . West side story and other bits of west (breakfast, possibly famous grouse) looked dry from a distance but didn't walk over. Oh, and the Promise looked in mint nick strangely. All the rock seemed quite 'plastered' with snow, not just horizontal bits. Going by the state of these, anyone any good tips for tmrw?
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Yes, I had a quick drive around late morning and Burbage looked pretty gopping. In hindsight I should have thought about Remergence. Definitely alot of snow melt and plastered rock, like you say.
I'll probably try the Plantation, Burbage West or Remergence.
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Anyone know what the southern peak's like? any less snow down there?
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the snow is only on high ground and ne facing crags have caught the most. staffs was in cloud most of yesterday but i daresay there'll be dry rock somewhere, clouds might be a good bet.
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not a bad idea....
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Rivelin was fine yesterday bar the odd wet streak which had dried by the end of the day. No snow on the rock or ground.
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no ground! shit, did you have to ab in? what a palava.
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We moved from place to place on the backs of our wing-ed steads obviously
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We moved from place to place on the backs of our wing-ed steads obviously
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/3079038249_1dd2510be6.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/3079038249)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3074/3079039417_c6aa9e8ee3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/3079039417/) :whistle:
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Something a little like this?
(http://www.cartoonstock.com/lowres/ena0057l.jpg)
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good one jon - what did you call it?
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Blood hell that was quick. I even got beaten on my own trumpet blowing post! It's called Cheeks 'N' Beaks
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Blood hell that was quick. I even got beaten on my own trumpet blowing post! It's called Cheeks 'N' Beaks
Apologies, was browsing flickr whilst bored at work and saw the pics for beastmaker inc.'s stream.
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No apologies needed. I'm a bit slow on posting things now we have strict internet policies at work.
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nice one jon - looks like a good un, where is it?
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Cheers Toby, it's Rivelin Quarry - see the Cheeks 'n' Beaks thread
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We moved from place to place on the backs of our wing-ed steads obviously
Steads... related to steeds ?
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Homesteads? Stacksteads?
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Only things i saw dry in the Peak today were Nik's wall at Rivelin and The Promise!
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Oh, God, Adam. Don't encourage him :lol:
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Oh, God, Adam. Don't encourage him :lol:
Looks good, wish i could have got fingers warm to try it! Looks like someones been trying it slightly more left.
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Oh, God, Adam. Don't encourage him :lol:
Looks good, wish i could have got fingers warm to try it!
How is the boy? Haven't heard from FOAM in ages. How does he like being warmed up?! :-*
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Oh, God, Adam. Don't encourage him :lol:
slightly more left.
I mean right. ::)
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Thinking of heading upto Burbage tomorrow early morning, is it a bit of a gamble after all the rain in Sheffield this afternoon? Im a bit weak on predicting conditions but the forecast looks cracking. Cheers
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Very wet here this evening, could be in for some wierd verglas scene if it does freeze. Burbage west takes less drainage and gets the morning sun so might be a better bet. I'd expect most of the exposed edges will be dry by the afternnon though.
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There's a hard frost and thick hoare frost in Grindleford this morning.
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Very frosty over the top of Burbage this morning, not much sun over in the peak either. Might well be OK later on, but I wouldn’t rush out. Burbage West looked reasonably dry, but I was mainly concentrating on the slippy road!
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Went to Plantation this evening. Was as grippy as a grippy thing! Failed on everything I wanted to do, but that's more to do with my lack of ability! There might be quite a lot of frost around tomorrow. The ground was frozen solid everywhere! Also the road down was pretty treacherous!
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Word did anyone get out today? Thinking about heading down tomorrow and was wondering how dry it is down there? Mainly interested in the Plantation and Burb W.
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Loads of people came in today having been out at Burb N. Reckon it was brilliant conditions.
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Very warm, very damp now.
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Whats the weather like over there now? Cheers.
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dull, but still cold and totally dry.
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Was snowing very lightly this morning which has left a very thin layer of snow on a lot of the holds and top-outs at the plantation - wasn't too bad if you knocked it off with a towel first, but some bits were quite damp. Not much better at Burbage west, but everything is climbable.
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i'll be out 14:00 ish at apparent north... hoping waiting will give drier holds!
i'll take some light (1000 lumens of LED should suffice!)
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For current reference Stanage conditions are... "lean"??
(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/stansnow1.jpg) (http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/stansnow2.jpg)
No sign of JB lapping The Storm.
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No, I've been at work. Looks wonderful though, we barely had a 1/2" of snow in Hangingwater. With the ground as hard frozen as it was yesterday it could hang around.
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Nice photos but Shit! Was planning on taking a couple people to Cratcliffe tomorrow...will it be under snow ? :shrug:
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Very cold with some remaining ice and snow here in grindleford, things may be in good nick but I'd go for somewhere south facing without a lot of run off. Personally I'd avoid cratcliffe at the moment due to inceased erosion if there is any remaining moisture in the rock
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Anybody hit the Plantation today? Keen to go tomorrow morning for non-climbing purposes. Is it still covered in Snow? (Espeically around the boulders if anyone knows.......)
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Nice photos but Shit! Was planning on taking a couple people to Cratcliffe tomorrow...will it be under snow ? :shrug:
Ummm....hi? ;)
Anybody hit the Plantation today? Keen to go tomorrow morning for non-climbing purposes. Is it still covered in Snow? (Espeically around the boulders if anyone knows.......)
Very likely indeed, still plenty of snow around, was -4 at the Fox House just recently.
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cool, cheers for that.
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Went to Cratcliffe, was beautiful but very much under snow, luckily I had 4 towels and managed to dry off a warm up block, razor roof and a couple things at RHS. The Cave at RHS was in fine fettle though as well as Ben's Wall block arete & slabs. Not much wind so it was just nice temp wise 8)
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yeah, i was there today too, at cratcliffe. The little robbin that bobs arounf Jerry's Traverese was there again, and I watched it try to peck at a streak of ice to try to get a drink. Must be tough times for thirsty birds.
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yeah, i was there today too, at cratcliffe. The little robbin that bobs arounf Jerry's Traverese was there again, and I watched it try to peck at a streak of ice to try to get a drink. Must be tough times for thirsty birds.
hell yeah! me and scouse were shooting dice with that sucker last week. what a guy.
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Stole my cheese and pickle sandwich, the little cunt.
Very cute though.
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yeah, i was there today too, at cratcliffe. The little robbin that bobs arounf Jerry's Traverese was there again, and I watched it try to peck at a streak of ice to try to get a drink. Must be tough times for thirsty birds.
This little fella? ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3176/3055732212_77cd6b95df_b.jpg)
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3055732212/)
Snapped whilst sitting under the sloper traverse in front and down from Jerry' Traverse, its sat on the boulder you have to step over to get between the two and is indeed very friendly/cute/hungry.
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Fresh snow in Grindleford this morning.
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Awwww Robin! :hug: [/off-topic]
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Is this common behaviour of Robin's?
I experienced similar last year while I was reciding in my Van at St Leger, the same Robin seemed to follow us between sectors, hang out around the van and was very tame..... built up quite a rapor with the little fella after a couple of weeks....
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Robins are notoriously bold; they are the wide boys of the bird world. ;D If they think you might feed them, they'll hang about you for ages; they also seem to be very nosey in general. We had one spend Christmas day with us in Spain, which was cute, he was the only remotely festive thing about the whole day.
I don't know why but they are definitely friendlier than most other birds, brave too.
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However, if everyone is as kind to Pete Robin asI always am, then I imagine it's GP would want to have a serious word about his cholesterol level. Cakes from Bakewell and fat from a hor roast pork seem to be his preferred diet.
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Whats it looking like over there now?
anyone out today?
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Whats it looking like over there now?
anyone out today?
Grey skies, and the roads and walls were damp in Fulwood half an hour ago when I arrived at work. Not much breeze either to dry the crags/boulders out.
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Still, overcast and cold, but a little damp under foot in west Sheffield.....
Mate has just head out to Curbar so could find out what its like if you are keen for more info.?
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yes please
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Sun is out in Leeds, roads are pretty much dry now if you had any thoughts of heading further north...
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I was thinking of heading up that way TBH
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Cold, but very misty out at Curbar, I suspect not amazing conditions will prevail.......
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Looking shit over here in t'West Jim. Cliff's probably your venue.
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Some low drizzly looking cloud has come over now... although I have faith in the power of the cliff :bow:
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stoney will be dry jim, or rubicon. no-one ever got strong going to almscliffe.
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Had a run along burbage. Most stuff looked dry with a bit of ice on some tops. Conditions no doubt good if you could stay warm. Sun was even out. Bitter cold breeze though.
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I think I saw you running in that case? I was the chap standing around Remergence waiting for the sun to go in.
Conditions weren't too bad, slight damp feel occasionally and holds seemed to pick up moisture from just touching them.
For me though being weak was more of a problem than the conditions. It was quite hard to stay warm too.
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Conditions weren't too bad, slight damp feel occasionally and holds seemed to pick up moisture from just touching them.
I've had this before. I think it happens when you get tiny ice crystals in the rock which melt when you touch the holds.
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was at west and it was fairly terrible with verglas on all the top outs and tricky to stand when you were off your mats. brrrrr.
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Walked up to Back Tor. Utterly Arctic up there, everything covered in frost from the freezing fog, ground rock solid etc etc. With the wind chill it must have been minus double figures. I wouldn't plan on any Derwent bouldering this weekend... :whistle:
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Does anyone think Blind Fig will be in a climbable state tomorrow?
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It was dry this afternoon, so should be as long as there isn't driving rain/snow onto it tonight. Only problem was the aforementioned holds getting slightly damp as soon as you touch them. It's cold too, the car reckoned -2 at 1700 this evening.
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The amount of hoare frost after the fog lifted may queer the pitch.
PS bling fig would be climable if someone bolted some jugs on it...
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Well, I braved the lukewarm drizzle this afternoon and wandered up to Stanage. It was moist. Really moist.
In fact, the only thing that I could find that was dry was Help the Young. Which was what I intended to have a look at. But unfortunately since my last semi-successful attempt some three years ago I have entirely forgotten what to do, and my soft and weak fingers barely got me off the ground.
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As it's brightening up in Manchester at the mo, is it doing the same on the eastern side of the peak? Keen for an afternoon session.
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As it's brightening up in Manchester at the mo, is it doing the same on the eastern side of the peak? Keen for an afternoon session.
Still fairly grey, but has pretty much stopped raining/drizzling and theres a bit of a breeze but I doubt it'll dry out properly.
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go to almscliff, it was mint yesterday
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go to almscliff, it was mint yesterday
I've not actually made the drive over to Yorkshire since moving north. That's a good plan.
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As it's brightening up in Manchester at the mo, is it doing the same on the eastern side of the peak? Keen for an afternoon session.
Still fairly grey, but has pretty much stopped raining/drizzling and theres a bit of a breeze but I doubt it'll dry out properly.
Ye of little faith. I'll wager most exposed S/E facing stuff in the peak will be fully dry this arvo. I'm banking on that anyway. I'll report back later.
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I could well be eating my words, there are holes in the clouds now from up in Fulwood so it may well dry out in places.
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Ye of little faith. I'll wager most exposed S/E facing stuff in the peak will be fully dry this arvo. I'm banking on that anyway. I'll report back later.
I'm counting on your local knowledge Bonjoy. Due to my total unoriginality, I'll probably end up on the trackside boulder.
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There was a bit of showeryness but the climbing was dry all afternoon at Birchen
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Does it look like anything might be climbable today?
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looks alright at the moment. if i wasn't bound to the eternal drudgery of a 9-5 job i'd be trying burbage right now.
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FBSF has just returned from a fruitless trip out - its wet.
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broomgrove then?
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Anyone been out today, assuming with the supposed dry weather tomorrow should be mint?
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Today was ok, none of the forecast sunshine and still damp in places. Bit raw in the wind. Sticky though, and should be still tomorrow.
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Has anyone been out to Burbage South in the last few days? I m wondering if its worth a trip down tommorrow, I ve heard there is still snow melting away steadily at some of the other crags :(
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It wouldn't be my first choice of destination in the peak at the moment. Its cold still but snow is melting during the day so stuff is getting damp. Not much wind either really. I imagine its very dank and green at the minute.
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Hmmm, know what you are saying. My thinking behind it was maybe the snow would be sooooooo cold there it may not be melting?
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Well maybe. But the top of the crag will get the sun......which happens to be where all the snow is sat waiting to melt down over the crag....... ;)
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Guess I ll have to hope someone has been today and knows for sure. Thx
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Heavy wintery showers / snow this afternoon and evening.
B South will be shit.
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There's no snow on the top of Sole Power... really good nick on it today.
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There's no snow on the top of Sole Power... really good nick on it today.
So did you do it or did you flounder?
I can't imagine you'd get called for a dab.
Now stop carping on about the weather.
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Any tips for somewhere dry in the peak today? It's quite bright over here in Manchester!
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Bright and sunny here now, I suspect that as it didn't freeze overnight that run off may be an issue.
Burbage south crag bouldering?
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Went to Curbar this am. Most of the crag was pretty wet. I didn't go to trackside etc but would imagine it would be wet with all the snow from the top definitely melting
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There's no snow on the top of Sole Power... really good nick on it today.
So did you do it or did you flounder?
I can't imagine you'd get called for a dab.
Now stop carping on about the weather.
He most certainly did! A three man team ascent of it yesterday morning! Great problem, and great in nick........
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Went to Curbar this am. Most of the crag was pretty wet. I didn't go to trackside etc but would imagine it would be wet with all the snow from the top definitely melting
Is Sean's Arete still dry?
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The pocket is a bit wet but its deffo climbable
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He most certainly did! A three man team ascent of it yesterday morning! Great problem, and great in nick........
Who was the 3rd?
Would I like it?
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Rob Smith.
You'd love it, Campus move, small crimp, dirty pocket/crimp thing, and a footless move. :thumbsup:
your leg might not without a fair few mats. :-\
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thats the main issue with that thing, avoiding that bloody rock plinth, or at least having at least a half dozen mats to make it OK. if it was a lowball i recon the climbing would only be 7b/+. shit i need to get back on this and "fire it" like jerry.
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Yeah tend to agree with you there Dave, although we all know that the current sequence wasn;t possible when Jerry did it, i.e before Heels were invented...... :whistle:
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if only mike lea had got the first ascent eh.
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Conditions report as of this afternoon.
Most of Burbage north is suffering from run off, including remergence buttress, I didn't wander over there but there were a few people climbing at Burbage west so assuming that there are bits of it that are OK.
Apparent North has got streaks down the front of it and a whole ton of sheep crap beneath it.
The Road down from the popular end to the plantation is still covered in a fair amount of snow.
Higgar's mostly dry along the main boulders.
Trackside boulder is more or less dry, Gorilla warfare dripping, didn't venture any further up the hill.
Anyone know what it's like in the Western Peak? Roaches in particular?
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Rob Smith.
You'd love it, Campus move, small crimp, dirty pocket/crimp thing, and a footless move. :thumbsup:
your leg might not without a fair few mats. :-\
The moves sound perfect, the height doesn't, I was really suffering after my last highballing day.
Hmmm I may have a do tomorrow, hopefully I'll bump into a few people with Uber pads as my Metolius things... well, I now agree with Dave, they were shit to start with,
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burbage west in good nick, wet streak down WSS only affecting the starting foothold
western eye's bone dry but a little greasy in the sun got better around 4pm (and with a new sequence ;) )
go west, nose & nostril dry, little wet in places on top out but avoidable
burbage north looks fucked, don't bother
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Anyone know what it's like in the Western Peak? Roaches in particular?
Drove past the Roaches today and virtually no snow left. Actually had a bit of sun this afternoon. Most Upper Tier problems will be fine. Ramshaw also looking largely OK.
Climbed at Secret Garden on Thursday afternoon and most of it was OK, aside from a relatively small wet streak down Zaff's as is normal. Problems on left (Tricky Traverse etc) and problems on right (DW etc) essentially OK. Should be good for the weekend.
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Anyone know what RHS, cratliffe, eatswood are like?
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[/quote]
climbed at Secret Garden on Thursday afternoon and most of it was OK, aside from a relatively small wet streak down Zaff's as is normal. Problems on left (Tricky Traverse etc) and problems on right (DW etc) essentially OK. Should be good for the weekend.
[/quote]
heard today that it (secret garden) was all wet; not seen myself though. Remerence was ok for a couple of hours this morning, but got knackered by run off about lunchtime.
Anyone been to the cliff or caley recently?
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Just about all the blocs at caley are still sporting snow hats and it all looks a bit dank from the road. Reckon the cliff will be in good nick after the sun this week, better than it was last weekend with all the drips anyway! Tim
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Anyone been out today, and got an update on the conditions? Much appreciated.
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Burbage West was good again today. Yesterday's wet streak on WSS had gone, and most stuff looked to be dry. Reputedly Breakfast and possibly Famous Grouse were dry too.
Remergence area was mostly dry but slightly damp in places, with everything climbable. There was some light but persistent rain before we left that made stuff damp, but it seemed to be drying again when we left.
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Baslow - eagle stone wet, flatworld dry
Curbar - all trackside block dry, great white dry, ben's wall wet
stoney - minus 10 strangely wet
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conan block - bone dry
mother's pet - most problems doable. but the odd wet streak on one or two
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Reputedly Breakfast and possibly Famous Grouse were dry too.
There was a wet streak on Breakfast but all the crucial holds were dry, although it was too wet to top out.
Famous Grouse was pretty much unclimbable due to run off.
Western Eyes / WSS / The Nose all dry.
Sean's Arete at Curbar dry too.
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Cratcliffe was streaky and it rained later. The cave at RHS was dry but muddy underfoot.
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plantation was in poor nick. Green traverse and joker dry. That's it
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The weather is absolute gash over here, may be another session at the power temple. :furious:
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Drove out to Burbage at 10am. Loads of snow, thick mist and steady light drizzle. Can't imagine anything being dry.
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Yer i've just got back from Burbage. North completely soaked, West suffering from a lot of run off besides Western Eyes which just looked damp. Piss/Shit soaked. Secret garden really soaked.
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eatswood was OK today, though getting damper from the moisture in the air as the day progressed. you're shit out of luck for routes though, unless you fancy a foolish lip.
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Has anyone been to Burbage this morning. I'm thinking about throwing in the lectures and going up this afternoon. Any news is appreciated as it'd save me a trip. Cheers
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Windy as F**K! Maybe take a weight belt to stay grounded.....
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Saw Ron at the Works this lunchtime.
He said its was very windy and rain blowing in
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Wind was not a problem at Rivelin
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Just got back from Higgar and West. Was pretty alright although it was windy when walking between the two. Only thing that looked wet was the left side of Spartacus. Was starting to spit just as I got on the bus.
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Does anyone know how the midges are doing at the moment? any recommendations on places to avoid them? ta
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midges should be OK if you get in the wind. easterly/northeasterly at the moment.
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was out earlier today at Burbage North and then onto South. Hardly any midges - just roasting.
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Hardly any midges - just roasting.
I suppose it's the heat and not the midges I should be worried about then!
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Thanks to a lack of interest in my Yorkshire lime request I thought I'd try the EP instead. I'm rather pleased I did too. Did the Terrace for the first time which was v.nice, then climbed the LH crack finish.
I'm sure you peak homies have run all over this bloc before, though JB's 7+8s has no mention of this variant so I thought I'd shout up as it climbs well and is worth noting.
Rather than taking the high slot with your lefthand, get it with your right, and make a powerful and insecure move to the good crack on the left, up which you finish.
If the terrace is hard 7c, then this is probably easy 7c, but then what would I know about grades?
Anyone else know what I'm talking about?
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Have defo done the finish, don't think if it was from the deck though. Effort.
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Yeah, I saw someone on this once - he seemed to think he'd found an easier solution to the Terrace. It still looked tough though.
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Cheers JB - I thought you'd have messed on it before. :P
r-man - what, who, when? It is an easier solution to the terrace, and it is tough. ;)
Ru - I know you're lurking, do you know it?
Can I throw down my Yeakie / Porkie trump card, claim the first claim and name it 'the terrace LH'?
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i've heard of it being done before too. Can't remember any details, sorry. Think terrace has also been done by getting slot with right hand and bailing all the way over for the top.
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Sorry Uptown, I don't know who it was. Must have been about two years ago.
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Ru - I know you're lurking, do you know it?
No
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hurley does it like this as a variant obviously, he doesn't try to claim an extra problem out of it either. have you got an 8a account you're not telling us about uptown?
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on a different note, does anyone know if the peak evening midges are gone yet?
Just looking at the John Lewis flags in town and there's no wind so I imagine if they're still about it'll be a horror show tonight
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they'll still be around given a chance, we haven't had a frost yet.
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on a different note, does anyone know if the peak evening midges are gone yet?
Just looking at the John Lewis flags in town and there's no wind so I imagine if they're still about it'll be a horror show tonight
Not a midge in sight when I turned up a fortnight ago. An hour later....
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3857869523_92e20cbff8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/pie_monster/3857869523/)
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cheers. might stick to a wall session then.
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aphex twin in midge horror show!
Me and saltlog went to bridestones and had an excellent midge free, rock boulderizing afternoon.
now I have no skin though