UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: bouldermonkey on December 11, 2007, 11:20:58 pm
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Hi all,
hope we're all well, and getting well on the way to being organised for christmas etc...
i've been stuck on a V3 now for about 12 months, dispite a good training regime, healthy eating and controlled weight loss... i just don't seem to be able to move beyond it.
I've got the technical knowledge for V4 and beyond, however i just dont seem to be able to unlock them or crack them....
Does anyone have any tips/advice to allow me to punch through this annoying plateau....
Much appreciated!
:thumbsup:
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whats your main weakness?
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It seems to be strength.
I;ll look at a problem, and see the sequence, and how to unlock it.... but i just dont have the strength to pull on through them.
Then another guy'll have a shot and bingo, they'll waltz through it, using the same sequence i had in my head like it's a V0... :shrug:
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Boulder Monkey
This may seem like shit news, but hit the weights. I don't climb for years on end and then have a sudden urge to do stuff. I've always had shit finger strength and learned the gaiety of technique when weak, but after 3 months of blasting big weights I can piss font 7a. Bench press, squat and one-arm bent over rows are the boys. Watch the bouncer boys when you pull out the 55kgs for the one arm rows, wankers. Was close to 8a but went back on the piss! Will crack it this year. Good luck with the training.
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How many V2s have you done? Are you solid at that level? It may be you need to do lots of V2s and V3s before progressing. Solid foundation etc.
But, don't get fixated on grades. Bouldering is (allegedly) fun.
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But, don't get fixated on grades. Bouldering is (allegedly) fun.
:spank:
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Sorry, Jas- I'd had one too many beers when I posted that :lol:
I don't boulder for fun, I boulder for POWER!!
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Good man. ;)
Boulder Monkey. I would normally recommend just bouldering more. You say you have a good training regime but at V3 (consults conversion chart to find proper grade - 6b+?) I don't think you need to be "training" per se. It seems a lot of people get sucked into the idea of structured training when what they really need at their level is to climb more. Perhaps if you just need more raw strength then stoat's weight regime will be beneficial for you but for me the progression at that level was made just by climbing, climbing and er more climbing.
In fact (although most people seem to remember me as being training obsessed) the only training I ever did was bouldering, albeit that a lot of that was on wood and plastic.
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you certainly don't want to be wasting your time doing weights, that time would be better spent climbing, even indoors.
when you say your weakness is "strength" it might help to be a little more specific. For example if you can hang on the holds all day but not move between them then you're probably lacking some kind of upper body strength (or the ability to push with your legs). If you can do big moves fine on larger holds but can't really hold the holds you're trying to use then its finger strength you're lacking.
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If you've done the problem in your avatar then you've already climbed harder than V4.
Other than that, dave's advice sounds good to me.
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change your training routine as often as you can. don't get stuck in the same stuff, always try to shock your body, it will react faster and better.
climb alot.
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do some pull ups, regularly.
don't bother with weights etc...
also go climbing as much as you can
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I would add, try to climb with other people, preferably ones who are better than you.
At the wall a couple of days ago, it was pionted out to me that, despite having my feet in the right places, I wasn't actually pushing on them. I just hadn't realised!
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Muchos thanks for all the tips folks...
I've climbed/bouldered as often as i can (albiet, not a often as i want too... but at 6 quid a session, not to mention the 3 quid each way bus fare it gets pricey v. quickly.... :'( )
In terms of specifics when it comes to lack of strength, i seem to have a decent amount of strength in my fingers, but do seem to lack upper body strength... i struggle at times to move between holds that require arm/shoulder strength... however, even with regular climbing and weights... over 12 months i havent seen an improvement.
I agree and understand entirely about the whole climb with someone who's better than you idea.... it works. Guy at my local wall pushed me up a 6b- the other week... normally my limit seems to be at 6a/6a+.
Thanks for the tips guys, i'll try and up my frequency of visits to the wall and revise my weight routines to see if i can get any more progress.
Either that or i'll fit helium balloons to myself... :thumbsup:
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Watch the bouncer boys when you pull out the 55kgs for the one arm rows, wankers.
a nice round figure for warming-up with ;)
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if technique is a factor holding you back don't so much watch the strong blokes but the decent girls
you'll learn about progressing without the raw power and then that power will come as you climb more...
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i'd be worried about any of my mates who spent their time watching strong blokes.
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Muchos thanks for all the tips folks...
I've climbed/bouldered as often as i can (albiet, not a often as i want too... but at 6 quid a session, not to mention the 3 quid each way bus fare it gets pricey v. quickly.... :'( )
In terms of specifics when it comes to lack of strength, i seem to have a decent amount of strength in my fingers, but do seem to lack upper body strength... i struggle at times to move between holds that require arm/shoulder strength... however, even with regular climbing and weights... over 12 months i havent seen an improvement.
I agree and understand entirely about the whole climb with someone who's better than you idea.... it works. Guy at my local wall pushed me up a 6b- the other week... normally my limit seems to be at 6a/6a+.
Thanks for the tips guys, i'll try and up my frequency of visits to the wall and revise my weight routines to see if i can get any more progress.
Either that or i'll fit helium balloons to myself... :thumbsup:
Fuck the weights off.
go to argos and get a pull up bar for £6, put loads of tape on it and do regular sets of pull ups.
You will see a big difference after 2 weeks guaranteed
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aye , you'll have callouses like kidney beans on your hands. ;)
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only if you're an office boy ;)
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I'll get you some sand paper for christmas Dave