UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: n_man on December 11, 2007, 05:07:28 pm
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where would you go? Bouldering that is.
I have the summer without work and I am moving to NZ with my wife sometime in the autumn. So this means bouldering anywhere in Europe for a few weeks in summer. Or a longer trip en route to NZ as it doesn't cost that much more to stop off for a bit on long haul.
So what would you do?
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Come to Oz then - Its wintertime so nice and cool. Plenty of top bouldering.
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Come to Oz then - Its wintertime so nice and cool. Plenty of top bouldering.
ditto.
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south africa or magic wood for me
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Stolby. Or the Bugaboos, or any other arctic granite alpine rock for that matter.
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basically you're moving to nz, so will be in spitting distance of oz so treat that like we would font, you can nip over there. magic isn't as extensive as rocklands, and arguably not as good in my opinion. i'd go to south africa, if you climb 7b/c you'll have a great few weeks, plus its cheap.
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basically you're moving to nz, so will be in spitting distance of oz so treat that like we would font, you can nip over there.
If only it were that easy and cheap. Bear in mind, that once you're earning NZ$ flights aren't cheap - $500-600 unless you manage to grab a deal. And its a four hour flight, which is fine is you want to boulder in Sydney, but if you fancy the Gramps, tack on 3-4hour drive when you get to Melbourne. And I'll hazard a guess that once you hit the 'Hill, you won't be leaving for a while!
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Good knowledge there about the NZ view of it all saltbeef.
Carnage - I thought that the Gramps bouldeing was top stuff if not massively extensive. But we only had chance to do a day in Sydney. Is it as good as it's cracked up to be in terms of quality (I know quantity wise there is tons)?
Two other questions pop into my mind......
1. Is Magic Wood busy in summer?
2. What time of year does Bishop come into condition?
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I thought it was great and very high quality on good rock. (If you like it steep that is, if you want slabs or techy walls then it'd probably be best to head elsewhere) There's alot there to keep you busy (even just working the Wheel of Life ;D) and theres some very good new stuff going up around The Tower area so I'm told, particularly highball aretes
Heres a couple of pics of the new probs (taken by Ross Taylor of Rock Mag as I know he reads this!):
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2240/2036222451_96925dec90_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2139/2036222447_e6e3ecbba4_b.jpg)
And heres a few of the guides- more can be found on the Climb.org site:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=201
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=660
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=204
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=657
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2. What time of year does Bishop come into condition?
April until September are pretty damn hot. Fine most of the rest of the year. Not ideal for you?
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This is a bit picky: when you say until September does that mean September would be OK, particularly towards the end. I know it will vary a bit each year. I am very keen to go but not so keen to get my skin ripped to bits, on what appears to be sharp granite.
Would Bishop be good for the wife up to the V3 mark?
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This is a bit picky: when you say until September does that mean September would be OK, particularly towards the end. I know it will vary a bit each year. I am very keen to go but not so keen to get my skin ripped to bits, on what appears to be sharp granite.
Would Bishop be good for the wife up to the V3 mark?
Depends - Sept could be too hot, or it could be pretty nice.
Absolutely loads to go at up to V3 - in fact, a splendid place for easier problems.
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if you're taking the bird and she only climbs v3, don't go to magic, rocklands probably has lots but it'll be alot of jughauling same with oz i think.
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if you're taking the bird and she only climbs v3, don't go to magic
Why not? there are loads of quality easy probs at magic
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Looks like we are going to try and combine Bishop and Squamish visits. Good range of grades and OK at that time of year (although perhaps not ideal).
Can anyone recommend a good guide to Bishop?
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new one from Wolverine is excellent, don't go in summer
http://www.cordee.co.uk/CCA382.php (http://www.cordee.co.uk/CCA382.php)
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do not go to bishop in summer. you couldn't touch the rock at the happy's in november a couple of years ago it was that hot
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I wouldn't count November as being close to summer, so I's surprised that it can be that hot there then (not that I don't believe you).
Does this mean that the end of September is too early in the season then?
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I was in Bishop a couple days ago and it was still pretty warm during the days. I wouldn't go anytime before November unless you enjoy greasing off slimely holds. The Happies has plenty of stuff in the V0-V3 range, my gf climbs similar level and loved it.
Best month for Squamish is September, and i would say its better than Bishop for easier grades. My suggestion would be Squamish September-October then drive down to Bishop in November. Maybe stop of at Smith on the way down if you like sport.
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I wouldn't count November as being close to summer, so I's surprised that it can be that hot there then (not that I don't believe you).
Does this mean that the end of September is too early in the season then?
Yes I would say so if you're planning to do lots of climbing. I've been in October for a weekend and it was super warm. I still climbed mind you but it was very warm.
It's just a really hot place in the day - you wouldn't believe the variation in temperature that you get over 24 hours in December and January if the sun is shining.
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So just how good is rocklands? I'm going to south africa in march. Is it a must visit place? Sport as well as bouldering?
Cheers
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Rocklands (and indeed other partes of Cedarberg) are bloody marvellous for bouldering. from what I have heard sport is OK, bit scattered though. Places like Karbonaatjieskraal are worth a look; check out the new W Cape Sport Guide.
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is there a pretty obvious place to stay for rocklands, where it's easy to find folk to climb with? i might be on my tod at that point
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Yes, the Cape Nature Conservation Campsite (I think) is where most folk stay.
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The Ogasawara Islands (J) (E of Taipei, S of Tokyo)
(http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/TOPICS/2004/IMG/fte82104.jpg)
There's gotta be stuff to do
(http://www.nakanishi.net/og/og15.jpg)
I'm well keen
(http://www.nakanishi.net/og/og11.jpg)
How to
(http://japanese.human.metro-u.ac.jp/kokubun/bonins/tanakafg2.jpg)
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I'd expect to see a Sea Monster on that map.
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We camped at the obvious campsite on the dirt road into rocklands. Basic and people come round to collect money then leave (from memory) You will need a hire car and I was glad that I wasn't camping up there on my own. For a couple of days midweek we were the only pair but that was a few years ago. The bouldering is great even though I got tick fever which totally zapped my power. The sport stuff isn't worth the effort considering how good the bouldering is and due to a bolting ban is extremely limited.
Cape Town has loads of climbing and it might be fruitful going to the topside bouldering(?) (on Table Mountain) to meet other people to climb with or other more popular areas such as the Mine for sports stuff.
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Last I heard negotiations were underway to allow some more routes to be bolted. Still won't compare to boulders though
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Tangier, then further this summer for us.
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Hi, I'm a local Font climber. Once you are in NZ, you have fast access to OZ and asia, which means you'd better have a "last" go here before the big motion. Our past summers, since the 03 heat wave, have been very good for climbing. Long days, not too hot, not so many climbers in the forest. Aprils and sept. / oct., where it gets the most busy, were from far much warmer than july / aug. I run a Gite + b&b at a walking distance from the elephant and 3.5 miles from the 3 pignons.
Have a look at www.bonadresse.com/ile-de-france/la-chapelle-la-reine.htm you can expect various discount in the b&b according to how many rooms and nights you'd stay in. You are welcome to ask for more ! Also, I rent crash-pads. Cheers, Stef.