UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on November 09, 2007, 07:05:09 pm
-
Had a search and couldn't see anything, so...
where exactly does this go? start in WSS undercuts and go out right then back left to last move of wss? start bottom right of the wall, up to the 2 crimps then press into flake for last move of wss? or press into final sidepull and up to break R of where WSS goes? someone told me today they thought it was without the crimps on the R too so now i'm extra confused!
-
start on the right of the wss undercuts (move up to goodish pocket with RHI think) then sort feet out and get 2nd sidepull as a back hand gaston thing with LH, get feet up a bit and go with right hand to break via intermediate if your not tall/johnny brown
-
This is not an eliminate other than starting with the ledge on the arete, though that should be out of reach all the way up if you do it right.
Basically keep left hand on the flakeline all the way up, first as an undercut/ sidepull, then as a shoulder press. As Jim says, first move is up to a pocket out right, move up and left foot comes onto the little nubbin most use on WSS for right foot, crux is then bringing right foot into blind pockety thing in thin break and pushing up for the top, pressing the highest good bit of the flake with left and aim for the break directly above flakeline, only good in back, dropping left foot off and lifting left hip seems to help.
-
cheers guys!
-
so..... do you get yr LH in the top layaway on Wss?? cos if yr a smurf (a la me) i know that I'm currently screwed with LH only in second layaway scenario... I'm miles off the top. to go from the second seems montserous!!
at present I have resurrected the desire to climb WSS, the problem that I fell off 25 times a day (from the top) for 3 days one week 5 years ago.... and then sacked off climbing for 4 years... :'( lets hope it goes a little better this time, I'm giving myself until march 29th 2008 - the sportive season starts then.
Anywaaay, My beta at that time was rather sick, but one method i had got me to the finishing moves of Ron-side, without using the holds on the right, it was WSS the whole way... are you sure the holds on the right are in? :shrug:
-
As far as I'm concerned they are the same problem, the name comes from it being Ron's sequence. Unlike all the other various sequences though its sufficiently worthwhile to do in its own right.
My original WSS sequence involves going to the top sidepull with my left and then matching, feet and c-of-g are in very different position to Ron-side though. On Ron-side you are using the layaways very much as shoulder presses.
Have seen several folk of 5'5" or so do West side, Ron-side is slightly more morpho though has been done by at least one stump of these proportions.
-
at present I have resurrected the desire to climb WSS, the problem that I fell off 25 times a day (from the top) for 3 days one week 5 years ago....
What, the very top? Horrendous.
-
yep, at the top :'(
JB, I agree... suppose we could always ask the great man himself...
-
You should just tick it from the break, that's what I did, but I paid dearly for it..... £2.99 for a bottle of tip-ex.
-
at present I have resurrected the desire to climb WSS, the problem that I fell off 25 times a day (from the top) for 3 days one week 5 years ago....
What, the very top? Horrendous.
sorry, not read it properly.... the break is my failing point :wall:
-
I'm just glad that someone else is reading from the same hymn sheet as me and that I'm not just imagining things!
Quote:
'Can't believe I'm reading this.
No top, no tick.
Andi, get your tippex out. You are genuinely the first person I've heard of who has ticked this without topping out. I can only imagine all those 'locals' you speak of have done the top previously and see less need to do it every go.'
You're not alone....
-
fuck it, i'm not interested in the route, just the boulder problem. good effort on the route tick, but if you feel happy to do the problrm and not the whole route then so be it IMO, you've not done the route unless you top out I agree...
-
I've only done the top section once. I was terrified. It didn't feel like bouldering to me. The fun is in all the stuff up to the break for me. On the few occasions that I have made it to the break, it has been after at least 20 failed attempts. I'm sure I must have had nearer 30 goes last time I did it. Mind you, it's a bit technical for me :)
-
So atleast a few of you agree that the 'problem' goes to the break. I was made to feel like a solitary fool for agreeing with this a few weeks ago! Thank you :wave:
-
That's cos there is no differentiation in most folk's minds between 'the problem' and 'the route'. Most folk want to climb West Side Story, to do that, I'm afraid, you have to top out.
-
Most folk want to climb West Side Story, to do that, I'm afraid, you have to top out.
-
That's cos there is no differentiation in most folk's minds between 'the problem' and 'the route'. Most folk want to climb West Side Story, to do that, I'm afraid, you have to top out.
I'm just glad it's gone from 'all folk's' to 'most folk's'. I was made to feel like a dick for mentioning what I was taught and what I always saw, I've never seen this problem topped out, I've seen it skirted off from the break many, many times. But that was last week and is water under the bridge, I do however expect all those who've ticked Mushin or Conan the Librarian at the break to also get down to Partners and purchase correction fluid :kiss2:
-
So atleast a few of you agree that the 'problem' goes to the break. I was made to feel like a solitary fool for agreeing with this a few weeks ago
I am a solitary fool and I share your opinion; what does that mean? ;)
Being a solitary fool feels ok after a few years and requires very little effort - leaving plenty of time for having fun bouldering.
-
get down to Partners and purchase correction fluid :kiss2:
That's the second time recently you've mentioned said item of stationery. Are you sponsored by tipp-ex?
-
Are you sponsored by tipp-ex?
I wish.
-
I thought this was ron side force it:
http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=6
or can you take the WSS 7b+ tick for doing that sequence?
-
No. That's a 7b variation.
-
thought as much but thought it was worth checking :-[
-
and the way mr Moon does it, it looks like 6a... but I think that is RSFI
I must admit to not doing RSFI (not tried it yet), but have done other methods up WSS; all in bad sketchy style
-
Even Ben needs shouting at to "Top it out", brilliant.
-
I thought this was ron side force it:
http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=6
or can you take the WSS 7b+ tick for doing that sequence?
That's not Ron-side, its the aforementioned 'welsh start' to West side. Usually for West side the big holds out right are frowned upon, and for Ron-side you finish direct off a press rather than dropping into a match on the top sidepull as Ben does. However its Ben so I think we can let him off.
Even Ben needs shouting at to "Top it out", brilliant.
Hardly! You're grasping at straws now, its not like he looks unfamiliar with the move. Whilst on the subject, who is the cameraman? An extra from a cheap nazi film?
-
However its Ben so I think we can let him off.
Yeah and he doesn't exactly look to be struggling on the other sequences.
I'm still not letting him off for using the crack on Play Hard though. :whistle:
-
http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=8
This is the closest thing to a 'standard' sequence for WSS.
http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=7 (http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=7)
This is the usual method for the taller, stronger man.
Funny how he keeps topping out every go, eh Andi?
-
That's probably got something to do with the nazi camera man pointing his luger as well as his camera at him.
Reminds me of Grimers old article where he kidnapped Jerry...
-
Andi, I've 'done' WSS perhaps scores of times but never topped out. I don't know why not and I'm sure its better but I don't really care that much either.
-
:spank: