UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: r-man on November 08, 2007, 03:57:55 pm
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James Litz has returned with the FA of one of the hardest problems in the US. It is in Castle Rocks in Idaho. I was told about this a week or so ago but was asked to keep it on the down low, but now it looks like footage will be on momentumvm.com very soon. He called it Warpath. Supposedly there are other hard problems in the area. James is a great guy and its nice to see him back in action.
http://www.b3bouldering.com/
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Is that V15 with or without V8+? :whistle:
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Yes.
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(http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/images/stories/jamesstill2.jpg)
It was often referred to as the "v15 project" that was like Hueco Tanks' "Esperanza" -- only harder.
Ten days of working on it found him falling off the end, which according to James, was a first for him. The problem starts with a V11 section of slapping small edges. It then moves into a traversing problem that is very reminiscent of Esperanza. Incredible amounts of body tension and finger strength are critical for this section. And the problem doesn't end there. It then goes directly into a three move V10 section involving a low percentage deadpoint to a small irregular edge, followed by a sketchy V8 on a shallow layback feature. At over 30 moves long, it is a very different problem than, for example, the short, super crimpy Daniel Woods problem "Jade" in RMNP.
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=43
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Looks buddy'ard...
What's a low percentage deadpoint?
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I can tell you that Yanks know fuck all about V8+. Fucking jokers. :spank:
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litz is a monster. can you stop doing these long things and do four outrageous moves? monster!