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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Three Nine on October 29, 2007, 11:20:25 am
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Downclimbing without weighting the rope preserves the onsight. Jolly good effort.
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Downclimbing without weighting the rope preserves the onsight. Jolly good effort.
:-\ Rather vague on the details there :-\
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According to Planet Fear (http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=6451) the Robbins and Caff both did it. Pete fell on his first attempt and did it next go, Caff got within a few moves from the top and then decided to downclimb the entire route cos it didnt feel right. Quick rest then sent it next go. Not so sure about the onsight but definite ground-up flash
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According to UKC he downclimbed cos he split his finger?
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According to ukc also: it may be the first flash, as Liam Halsey (mentioned in BMC guide as having flashed it) was reported (on ukc) to have fallen several times.
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how can caff possibly have flashed it? flashed means first go. onsight means first go with no prior knowledge. ground up means exactly that. he didn't do it first go, how can it be a flash?
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shit. that was dense btw. forgot to change login details on pc
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I think this all boils down to your own personal view on reversing to the ground....
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One could argue that he onsight-flashed the route, albeit in two parts, as the second part was climbed without prior knowledge/inspection after reclimbing the lower part which had been reversed.
Perhaps a new term is required....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEbgB6X6S5c
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how can caff possibly have flashed it? flashed means first go. onsight means first go with no prior knowledge. ground up means exactly that. he didn't do it first go, how can it be a flash?
1) Do you really believe that if you reverse back to the ground that you blow the onsight.
2) I'm sure everyone has seen hard grit can it be a true onsight? Not bothered Either way!
3) I was there and it was one the best pieces of climbing I've ever seen, he reversed from the very top all the way without weighting the rope! A fucking awesome effort in it's self, and after a quick walk and Pete doing it he, fucking pissed it, and for good measure carried on up great arete, All this without his top on (it was freezing) that girls is a measure of the man.
4) Caff and Pete Are fucking awesome. Fair Play!
5) And he might even have tried to take the alien back to outside afterward's.
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5) And he might even have tried to take the alien back to outside afterward's.
Genius, please confirm this is true...
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Genius, please confirm this is true...
That was the plan they bought it in the morning and left the tag on it, Only problem was Pete taking the ride on to it.
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how can caff possibly have flashed it? flashed means first go. onsight means first go with no prior knowledge. ground up means exactly that. he didn't do it first go, how can it be a flash?
:lol: PLease tell me you're joking....
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I think it's about time this milksop McCraftily stopped ladyboying around and did something fucking hard. Gaylord.
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how can caff possibly have flashed it? flashed means first go. onsight means first go with no prior knowledge. ground up means exactly that. he didn't do it first go, how can it be a flash?
He did in first go as in he didn't fall off it, therefore it's still first go. Downclimbing is well allowed. In my opinion. Now what about gaia onsight...
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Brilliant effort by both. Please don't let this become another example of nit picking about terminology. They are two great bits of climbing.
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Just for the record, all the above was DENSE's poorly formed opinion, not mine, I'd give Caff the onsight, and Pete the ground-up.
So is this the first ascent without falls? What are the other contenders for best style on this?
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The only other one I can think of is the Sellers, I know he was off but don't know how where or why, still a storming effort.
I think it's maybe the first full accent of the whole arete as he carried on up great arete afterwards, He mentioned that the top arete is pretty scary! If Caff thinks its scary I'm never going near the mo fo.
Is it not called masters edge because only a true master could climb it onsight? If so it's a bit sad we're all sat round discussing wether or not it was a ground up retro, flash, Or pink point pr0no flash, video Nasty beta flash!
Bollocks!
Slap Dense when you see him!
Is Caff The Master? I reckon!
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I think it's maybe the first full accent of the whole arete as he carried on up great arete afterwards
think Pickford's done it that way but headpoint (not 100% on that though, just recall him saying something like that).
Anyway... bon effort, waddage etc etc... good stuff! hope to see more of this beastliness in the near future...
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don't have a go at me i didn't invent the terminology. i know caff is a beast i don't need telling. i have no doubt at all it was fucking inspiring. i also agree with houdini
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The only other one I can think of is the Sellers, I know he was off but don't know how where or why,
Nic's was in similar style to Pete's, ie ground-up with one fall.
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Dense can't be trusted on topics like this, too much of a loose cannon. It was all a bit :-[ when he appeared under the JB moniker.
Great effort and I too agree with Houdini especially the random gaylord insult.
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So it's settled:
Till an onsight (old money, boyo) of Moon Madness happens, Caff is a Ladyboy.
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Voted Top drunk post 2007 in James! Magazine Nov 07 :alky:
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I did Edge Lane and carried on up Great Arete.
Aren't I great.
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I did Edge Lane and carried on up Great Arete.
Aren't I great.
Grimer, to me you are just a regular or garden superhero.
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I did Edge Lane and carried on up Great Arete.
Aren't I great.
I'm not. I had to get rescued from GA.
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I did Edge Lane and carried on up Great Arete.
I bet your second was moaning about the potential swing as he followed Edge lane
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[/quote]
I'm not. I had to get rescued from GA.
[/quote]
Yes, but I wasn't soloing it, Andy.
As as regards to Masters, surely what Caff did was a real breakthrough. I think what he did was way more amazing than a straightforwards on-flash.
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I love the last minute randomness of it all. Caff rang me the night before and asked if I had any tricams/aliens he could borrow. (I didn't, but I told him to call you - for some reason I imagined that you'd got a stash of crucial, but obscure gear for grit test pieces). Most people contemplating this sort of thing would have it all pre-planned months in advance.
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Exactly. points for randomness.
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Most people contemplating this sort of thing would have it all pre-planned months in advance.
:lol: it is true! I can remember buying a nail for Braille Trail when I was climbing about E1 and I've had an un-used Tri-Cam 2 1/2 hanging on my spare rack for about seven years! They should have called me and used that, I doubt I'll be using it anytime soon. I'm stil waiting for that morning when I wake up and think "right, time to put this nail and this tri-cam to use"....
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Don't those boys know about the folded over hex trick??
Actually, I imagine people who onsight E7 aren't that likely to have many cowbells dangling around...
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I was handed some tri-cams of JB's as part of a rack recently. Determined to use them I put them in, upside down, (with the spike sticking into the tape). I'd get some practice before setting off up Masters Edge.
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Aye, Caff's got to get something for doing it first with no falls and no ropes from the top.
I'd say that's onsight, as otherwise you're eliminating the ground, which surely the route is graded taking into account, but that's also just me legitimising going up and down a lot on everything I do. But I thought most other people thought if you use the ground then strictly it is not? Ages ago someone eventually convinced me I wasn't allowed to deck on an onsight, but I think once I started down climbing in control they said I wasn't allowed to do that either.
(http://www.clicksports.co.uk/_images/products/portable-steel-football-goal-posts_thumb.jpg)(http://www.clicksports.co.uk/_images/products/portable-aluminium-football-goal-posts_thumb.jpg)
Woe is me.
Unfortunately for caff, you have to solo it onsight for `Only the True Master' status, and the open top bus tour around sheffield courtesy of Mr Moffatt.
Sorry I'm turning this into the forbidden ethics debate, when really I just wanted to big up tri cam 2.5s. I have had some success with them recently so am still a fan.
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Just to be a nit picking bastard, how did the rope get back to the ground? Surely it was the force of weight which dragged it back through the karabiner? A small fraction of his weight must therefore have been applied to the rope.
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;D
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clms on the money there, but not the money i owe him. caffs now gone down in my estimation, the cheating bastard
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plus he must of watched pete do it so it wasn't without beta ;D
I'll give him the flash
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how good was petes beta as he fell off.
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As he fell off? Petes' beta was useless to him. No good at all. We must start a Famous but not Great thread. ;)
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We must start a Famous but not Great thread. ;)
That would make for interesting reading.
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it sounds like pete tried it, fell off, then did it 2nd go and then caff did it after him to me, therefore caff must have watched pete do it before he tried it.
I could be wrong and it doesn't really matter anyway. Sterling effort by both