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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 09:43:09 am

Title: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 09:43:09 am
In preparation for the forthcoming Swiss trip, what 7c should I be throwing myself at when I'm out there?
Your finest recomendations please
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Nibile on October 16, 2007, 09:54:51 am
randomly...
in cresciano i would say "la pioche", "arcadia", "the partner" (very highball), and a couple of others i don't know the name.
in chironico...just everyone!!!
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 09:56:48 am
ah arcadia. shall be doing a richie on that one me thinks
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Nigel on October 16, 2007, 10:48:40 am
Except your "little trousers" will actual be clown trousers for everyone else.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 16, 2007, 11:02:22 am
What about Village Idiot? Looks well brown.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: dobbin on October 16, 2007, 11:09:40 am
Do tomahawk at chironico and les cliques a clackes (heheheheheehehehehehee)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 11:11:03 am
done tomahawk and its only 7b+.
village idiot is banned (not suprisingly being in someones garden) and also 7b+
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy B on October 16, 2007, 11:34:13 am
Not sure it's an ultra classic but Birds is a nice little low ball, and seems a popular quick tick.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 01:22:44 pm
where is it please andy?
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy Harris on October 16, 2007, 01:58:24 pm
Monolith ss at Chironico is about 7c and really fontish.

Rain dogs is very board like at Chironico.

Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.

Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 02:01:43 pm
for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Nigel on October 16, 2007, 02:17:09 pm
Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.

Molunk?
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: monkey boy on October 16, 2007, 02:37:51 pm
Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.

Molunk?

For sure thats right and its class but not exactly sure on access!
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: saltbeef on October 16, 2007, 03:40:48 pm
Not sure it's an ultra classic but Birds is a nice little low ball, and seems a popular quick tick.
tried the birds last time jim. its behind les cliques, near sloper attack. its ok.
cliques is 7bplus as is la pioche!
i see your thinking here jim. vitruvian man was fun, again low ball.
come on nibile, name names.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Nibile on October 16, 2007, 04:47:29 pm
another one could be "le pilier" even ig it's given from 7c to 8a.

birds is nice, and i don't think it's a very quick tick. i've seen it in a few videos, and most miss the real start, that is where the 8a starts, on the bigger edges that are on the left. then you traverse right with very low feet, gain the smaller crimps (where most people start) and work your way to the diagonal edge, then right and out.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 05:22:37 pm
the thing to the right of le pilier is hard enough, 6c called lemon tree I think. Only Cowboyhat could do it and he had already done serre moi fort
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy B on October 16, 2007, 05:53:00 pm
Birds is the right hand line next to raindogs, centrale area block 8 in the guide. Les Cliques a Claques is 7b+ from standing and 7c from sitting.

7c's that I have looked at but not tried that look good are Eisprung, and the problem to its right (fairly basic and crimpy similar in style to Piranja Jim), Block 16 in the Rah Plats Plats area and Les Doigts Verts (7c/+) block 2 in the Doigts Verts area.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 16, 2007, 05:57:28 pm
fairly basic and crimpy similar in style to Piranja Jim

And with that, the thread achieves its aim.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: dave on October 16, 2007, 06:18:47 pm
the thing to the right of le pilier is hard enough, 6c called lemon tree I think. Only Cowboyhat could do it and he had already done serre moi fort

this thing?
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/switzerland/andychironicho01.jpg)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy B on October 16, 2007, 06:34:46 pm
birds is nice, and i don't think it's a very quick tick. i've seen it in a few videos, and most miss the real start, that is where the 8a starts, on the bigger edges that are on the left. then you traverse right with very low feet, gain the smaller crimps (where most people start) and work your way to the diagonal edge, then right and out.

My quick tick comment was really just based on the circumstances in which I did it. After a week of getting duffed in Magic Wood, and after taking longer to do Kill Bill (the 7a in Nibile's video) and Sloper Attacke, i just assumed it must be a bit soft. Maybe not. Incidentally I started in the right place.

Dave: aye that's Lemon Tree
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: dave on October 16, 2007, 06:47:01 pm
word, that lemon shit is a good problem. when i first saw it i assumed it was a 7b.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: J.P on October 16, 2007, 09:43:24 pm
Anyone know what access is like at the riverbed in Brione? On the same side as the road there´s a superb sitter/crack thing into a good ramp that leads to a fairly high topout. Anyone know what I´m rambling about and if it has a name? No idea about the grade, but it´s about the finest piece of rock I´ve ever climbed on and one I would highly recommend :)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 10:51:05 pm
word, that lemon shit is a good problem. when i first saw it i assumed it was a 7b.
I think it should be 7b
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: J.P on October 17, 2007, 08:24:01 am
This is the one I´m talking about:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2267/1595893833_5d040b6b0b_b.jpg

Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: monkey boy on October 17, 2007, 11:27:26 am
Not sure what problem your talking about but the riverbed area at Brione is suppose to be fine to climb at!
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Scouse D on October 17, 2007, 12:23:09 pm
Lemon tree good problem, steady at 6c. look at me.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: monkey boy on October 18, 2007, 03:16:18 pm
A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy F on October 18, 2007, 03:23:43 pm
for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good

Hmmm, I wonder why Tom hasn't mention this before :-\  ;)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: cofe on October 18, 2007, 07:02:20 pm
A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag

it takes him 0:50 to pull on. that's almost as long as dave.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Monolith on October 18, 2007, 07:04:38 pm
for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good

Hmmm, I wonder why Tom hasn't mention this before :-\  ;)

It was supposed to be just between the three of us but that's now obviously out the window  ::)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: unclesomebody on October 18, 2007, 11:58:39 pm
A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag

Another video featuring Hunk #4, Doylo, despatching Birds

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJQKnh7BDX4
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Jim on October 19, 2007, 08:08:38 am
whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: J.P on October 19, 2007, 08:17:44 am
whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?

Looks like Brechstange.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: cowboyhat on October 19, 2007, 01:51:58 pm
Both look good, I have seen that video before and wondered what the problems were.

Doyle has better taste in music than these Euro's.

Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Richie Crouch on October 19, 2007, 07:58:11 pm
soucoupe left hand looks amazing!
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: a dense loner on October 19, 2007, 08:09:32 pm
that's not how you spell brechstange ritchie ;)
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy B on October 19, 2007, 08:43:53 pm
whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?

That's the problem right of Eisprung that I was on about (Block 16 in the Rah Plats Plats area). It's unamed in the guide but gets 7c.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Doylo on October 20, 2007, 10:50:29 am
i think all the problems in that vid of mine are really good. Am keen to go back and do the ones that 5c did an i didn't. Has anyone tried/ done the '7b+' left of that 7c wall that Neil does in the vid, looked much harder than the 7c to us!
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: J.P on October 20, 2007, 03:44:21 pm
Guess I was wrong earlier. If I´m not mistaking that 7B+ is Brechstange. We thought it felter harder than the 7C too :-\
It´s block 20, boulder a in the Röker guide. Might be wrong, like most of the stuff in the guide. We used it only to find the areas...
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Andy B on October 21, 2007, 11:17:04 pm
Had a look at the Blockheart (Roker) guide guide last night and it seems that Brechstange and Eisprung are the same problem (Eisprung being the name given in the Blue Chironico guide). This and the problem to it's right are both given 7c in the blue guide.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Nibile on October 24, 2007, 03:21:17 pm
so,
ticino will have to wait.
i got the job at the climbing shop, so for the next three months no roadtrips for me, but despite this, i'm very happy, even if i'll have to move to florence, find a new house, and, basically, work.
Title: Re: 7c's in Ticino
Post by: Greg C on October 25, 2007, 10:49:16 am
i think all the problems in that vid of mine are really good. Am keen to go back and do the ones that 5c did an i didn't. Has anyone tried/ done the '7b+' left of that 7c wall that Neil does in the vid, looked much harder than the 7c to us!

Some local guy told me it had lost holds and that was about two years ago, not sure if its been redone. As you say looks (and feels) nails!
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