UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Jim on October 16, 2007, 09:43:09 am
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In preparation for the forthcoming Swiss trip, what 7c should I be throwing myself at when I'm out there?
Your finest recomendations please
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randomly...
in cresciano i would say "la pioche", "arcadia", "the partner" (very highball), and a couple of others i don't know the name.
in chironico...just everyone!!!
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ah arcadia. shall be doing a richie on that one me thinks
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Except your "little trousers" will actual be clown trousers for everyone else.
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What about Village Idiot? Looks well brown.
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Do tomahawk at chironico and les cliques a clackes (heheheheheehehehehehee)
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done tomahawk and its only 7b+.
village idiot is banned (not suprisingly being in someones garden) and also 7b+
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Not sure it's an ultra classic but Birds is a nice little low ball, and seems a popular quick tick.
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where is it please andy?
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Monolith ss at Chironico is about 7c and really fontish.
Rain dogs is very board like at Chironico.
Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.
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for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good
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Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.
Molunk?
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Not sure if Brione main bit is oK (the woods) but there is an amazing dominator like problem but 7cish. Can't remember name.
Molunk?
For sure thats right and its class but not exactly sure on access!
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Not sure it's an ultra classic but Birds is a nice little low ball, and seems a popular quick tick.
tried the birds last time jim. its behind les cliques, near sloper attack. its ok.
cliques is 7bplus as is la pioche!
i see your thinking here jim. vitruvian man was fun, again low ball.
come on nibile, name names.
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another one could be "le pilier" even ig it's given from 7c to 8a.
birds is nice, and i don't think it's a very quick tick. i've seen it in a few videos, and most miss the real start, that is where the 8a starts, on the bigger edges that are on the left. then you traverse right with very low feet, gain the smaller crimps (where most people start) and work your way to the diagonal edge, then right and out.
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the thing to the right of le pilier is hard enough, 6c called lemon tree I think. Only Cowboyhat could do it and he had already done serre moi fort
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Birds is the right hand line next to raindogs, centrale area block 8 in the guide. Les Cliques a Claques is 7b+ from standing and 7c from sitting.
7c's that I have looked at but not tried that look good are Eisprung, and the problem to its right (fairly basic and crimpy similar in style to Piranja Jim), Block 16 in the Rah Plats Plats area and Les Doigts Verts (7c/+) block 2 in the Doigts Verts area.
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fairly basic and crimpy similar in style to Piranja Jim
And with that, the thread achieves its aim.
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the thing to the right of le pilier is hard enough, 6c called lemon tree I think. Only Cowboyhat could do it and he had already done serre moi fort
this thing?
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/switzerland/andychironicho01.jpg)
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birds is nice, and i don't think it's a very quick tick. i've seen it in a few videos, and most miss the real start, that is where the 8a starts, on the bigger edges that are on the left. then you traverse right with very low feet, gain the smaller crimps (where most people start) and work your way to the diagonal edge, then right and out.
My quick tick comment was really just based on the circumstances in which I did it. After a week of getting duffed in Magic Wood, and after taking longer to do Kill Bill (the 7a in Nibile's video) and Sloper Attacke, i just assumed it must be a bit soft. Maybe not. Incidentally I started in the right place.
Dave: aye that's Lemon Tree
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word, that lemon shit is a good problem. when i first saw it i assumed it was a 7b.
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Anyone know what access is like at the riverbed in Brione? On the same side as the road there´s a superb sitter/crack thing into a good ramp that leads to a fairly high topout. Anyone know what I´m rambling about and if it has a name? No idea about the grade, but it´s about the finest piece of rock I´ve ever climbed on and one I would highly recommend :)
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word, that lemon shit is a good problem. when i first saw it i assumed it was a 7b.
I think it should be 7b
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This is the one I´m talking about:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2267/1595893833_5d040b6b0b_b.jpg
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Not sure what problem your talking about but the riverbed area at Brione is suppose to be fine to climb at!
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Lemon tree good problem, steady at 6c. look at me.
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A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag
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for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good
Hmmm, I wonder why Tom hasn't mention this before :-\ ;)
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A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag
it takes him 0:50 to pull on. that's almost as long as dave.
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for some reason I've got a vid of you doing monolith on my pc. It looks good
Hmmm, I wonder why Tom hasn't mention this before :-\ ;)
It was supposed to be just between the three of us but that's now obviously out the window ::)
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A video of Birds (7c) for you jim!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds_8M5Yc0ag
Another video featuring Hunk #4, Doylo, despatching Birds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJQKnh7BDX4
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whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?
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whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?
Looks like Brechstange.
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Both look good, I have seen that video before and wondered what the problems were.
Doyle has better taste in music than these Euro's.
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soucoupe left hand looks amazing!
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that's not how you spell brechstange ritchie ;)
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whats problem 3 that hunk#3 5c does?
That's the problem right of Eisprung that I was on about (Block 16 in the Rah Plats Plats area). It's unamed in the guide but gets 7c.
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i think all the problems in that vid of mine are really good. Am keen to go back and do the ones that 5c did an i didn't. Has anyone tried/ done the '7b+' left of that 7c wall that Neil does in the vid, looked much harder than the 7c to us!
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Guess I was wrong earlier. If I´m not mistaking that 7B+ is Brechstange. We thought it felter harder than the 7C too :-\
It´s block 20, boulder a in the Röker guide. Might be wrong, like most of the stuff in the guide. We used it only to find the areas...
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Had a look at the Blockheart (Roker) guide guide last night and it seems that Brechstange and Eisprung are the same problem (Eisprung being the name given in the Blue Chironico guide). This and the problem to it's right are both given 7c in the blue guide.
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so,
ticino will have to wait.
i got the job at the climbing shop, so for the next three months no roadtrips for me, but despite this, i'm very happy, even if i'll have to move to florence, find a new house, and, basically, work.
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i think all the problems in that vid of mine are really good. Am keen to go back and do the ones that 5c did an i didn't. Has anyone tried/ done the '7b+' left of that 7c wall that Neil does in the vid, looked much harder than the 7c to us!
Some local guy told me it had lost holds and that was about two years ago, not sure if its been redone. As you say looks (and feels) nails!