UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Carnage on October 15, 2007, 02:20:05 am
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Australian wad Chris Webb has made the first repeat of the Wheel of Life V16 at Hollow Mountain cave.
Nice to the local boy finally getting there after much effort.
:)
Here he is in action:
(http://bp3.blogger.com/_X6w3A7Z5JMI/RwRVRIVdDbI/AAAAAAAAABU/KpsNFmFj0hc/s1600/DSC_0137.JPG)
And on Catalyst, a recent V14 link up Mushi Brain in Genesis at Crumbly.
(http://bp1.blogger.com/_X6w3A7Z5JMI/RtFVKvDwfEI/AAAAAAAAAAc/YOjeWfuxn6s/s1600/markphoto1043%5B1%5D.jpg)
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Its been bloody warm here aswell! Fine effort indeed.
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Vids(?) dont seem to work, or is it just me?
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It's just you. They are photos
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No, mini, it won't work for me either.
Google
Error
Forbidden
Your client does not have permission to get URL /s1600 from this server.
Do you need a google account to see these?
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I see no links to vids or pictures - what's going on? Is it a Firefox things as unlikely as that would seem?
bluebrad
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Heres his blog - The source of the pictures:
http://www.webbyclimb.blogspot.com/
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I didnt even know V16 existed. Shows how much I know about bouldering. And climbing for that matter. Is V16 the highest? How many are they, where are they and who did the FA?
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I didnt even know V16 existed.
It probably doesn't.
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(http://www.rsportscars.com/foto/03/cadillacsixteen03_engine.jpg)
There's a few.
(nb - stamina problems = shit lowball routing.)
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What a beast, has anyone climbed in this cave - is it as good as it looks? Is the rock soild? Psched for an Oz trip now!
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That Memento is meant to be 8c+ as is Tonino 78. I tend to agree with what Malc said about top end grades though. There is a big difference between soft 8b and top end 8b so when something's a little bit harder than 8b+ is it necessarily 8c and have people really exhausted the limit of top end 8c to be sure that these problems are 8c+? Time will tell.
Anyway "shit lowball routing" though it most certainly is it's still a fucking top effort.
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Yeah sorry, take the shit out. It's quite pretty routing. Wild effort.
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I didnt even know V16 existed. Shows how much I know about bouldering. And climbing for that matter. Is V16 the highest? How many are they, where are they and who did the FA?
There are about 7 claimed at V16 or V15/16. Dai Koyamada has done three of them, including the Wheel of Life. Fred Rouhling has also claimed a couple. Google about and you'll find em. Interestingly, it seems a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16 - http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=515
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Interestingly, it seems a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16 - http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=515
??? Where does it say that?
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According to Koyamada, Byaku-dou, or "The Road to Heaven," is [...] "at least 8C, V15."
Fred Rouhling has attempted Byaku-dou and says that it is harder than Dreamtime, 8C, V15
If you are nitpicking, Rouhling may just mean it's a hard V15, or Koyamada may actually believe it's V16. But it could also mean, as the article suggests
Possible V16 at Hourai, Japan
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Not nitpicking. That totally out of date (Dreamtime is 8b+ anyway) and rather irrelevant article doesn't in any way insinuate that "a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16" that's all. I thought maybe you'd got that information from elsewhere but it's just the way you'd interpreted it. :)
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Vid of caveman which is part of the link up - even this looks knackering! Is this Koyamada?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yhfRC4nNEA4 (http://youtube.com/watch?v=yhfRC4nNEA4)
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it's just the way you'd interpreted it. :)
That's your opinion. :)
Anyway, it looks hard (http://www.climbing.com/print/features/CLB-0412-JAPAN-12.jpg)
So does this - footage of Hydrangea V15/16, as well as another project (may have been done by now?). You have to click the corners of the pages until you get to the video.
http://www.rokmek.com/
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Opinion my arse.
Does Koyamada ever do a prolem that's less than 20 moves long? Those things do look hard though, I just don't find all that monkeying about in caves particularly inspiring. Good magazine thing that r-man, I wish my German was better cos the Kurt Albert interview would be well worth a read.
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I wish my German was better cos the Kurt Albert interview would be well worth a read.
You could try bunging the URL into Babelfish (http://babelfish.altavista.com/)
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I may see what amusing literal translations it comes up with.
That Marcus Bock route looks fucking brilliant too.
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R-man you are the Mick Ryan of UKB.
I wonder when people are going to grow out of these "turn the page" flash gimmick websites. Thanks for the heads-up on clicking the corners, trying to turn the pages is a fucking joke.
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Edit: Stopping before it gets silly. No I'm not. so ner. ;D
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r-man nowhere does it say rouhling V16 is Dai V15, that's nobody's opinion except your own. bear in mind when you read into things like 'fred saying dai's prob is harder than something" that they are both mates, not forgetting, of course, both mutant too.
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;D Every time you post, I bet this is what you imagine... :lol:
(http://www.monroegallery.com/showcase/images/ali_knockout.jpg)
I love you dense. You look so good from down here. :kiss2:
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Anyway "shit lowball routing" though it most certainly is it's still a fucking top effort.
Too right - Its an awesome bit of climbing and a supreme effort. Its basically a link of the following problems:
Xtreem cool - V8
Sleepy Hollow- V12
Dead cant dance - V11
Cave rave - V11/12
Which amounts to about 70+ moves in 35m of horizontal climbing. It must rate as one of the hardest routes in the world. I have no idea how this can be given a 'V' grade tho. I said as much on the Oz forum and got shouted down, not suprisingly.
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;D Every time you post, I bet this is what you imagine... :lol:
(http://www.monroegallery.com/showcase/images/ali_knockout.jpg)
I love you dense. You look so good from down here. :kiss2:
can you see up his shorts? ;D
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Why, have you misplaced something? ;D