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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Carnage on October 15, 2007, 02:20:05 am

Title: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Carnage on October 15, 2007, 02:20:05 am
Australian wad Chris Webb has made the first repeat of the Wheel of Life V16 at Hollow Mountain cave.

Nice to the local boy finally getting there after much effort.
 
:)

Here he is in action:

(http://bp3.blogger.com/_X6w3A7Z5JMI/RwRVRIVdDbI/AAAAAAAAABU/KpsNFmFj0hc/s1600/DSC_0137.JPG)

And on Catalyst, a recent V14 link up Mushi Brain in Genesis at Crumbly.

(http://bp1.blogger.com/_X6w3A7Z5JMI/RtFVKvDwfEI/AAAAAAAAAAc/YOjeWfuxn6s/s1600/markphoto1043%5B1%5D.jpg)

Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 15, 2007, 02:39:52 am
Its been bloody warm here aswell! Fine effort indeed.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: mini on October 15, 2007, 11:08:30 pm
Vids(?) dont seem to work, or is it just me?
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: account_inactive on October 15, 2007, 11:11:05 pm
It's just you.  They are photos
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: GCW on October 15, 2007, 11:11:33 pm
No, mini, it won't work for me either.

Quote
Google     
Error
 
Forbidden
Your client does not have permission to get URL /s1600 from this server.

Do you need a google account to see these?
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: butters on October 15, 2007, 11:52:29 pm
I see no links to vids or pictures - what's going on? Is it a Firefox things as unlikely as that would seem?

bluebrad
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Carnage on October 16, 2007, 12:00:38 am
Heres his blog - The source of the pictures:

http://www.webbyclimb.blogspot.com/
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Will Hunt on October 16, 2007, 09:08:32 am
I didnt even know V16 existed. Shows how much I know about bouldering. And climbing for that matter. Is V16 the highest? How many are they, where are they and who did the FA?
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 09:19:28 am
I didnt even know V16 existed.

It probably doesn't.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Houdini on October 16, 2007, 09:33:12 am
(http://www.rsportscars.com/foto/03/cadillacsixteen03_engine.jpg)

There's a few.




(nb - stamina problems = shit lowball routing.)
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Stubbs on October 16, 2007, 09:36:51 am
What a beast, has anyone climbed in this cave - is it as good as it looks?  Is the rock soild?  Psched for an Oz trip now!
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 09:48:58 am
That Memento is meant to be 8c+ as is Tonino 78. I tend to agree with what Malc said about top end grades though. There is a big difference between soft 8b and top end 8b so when something's a little bit harder than 8b+ is it necessarily 8c and have people really exhausted the limit of top end 8c to be sure that these problems are 8c+? Time will tell.

Anyway "shit lowball routing" though it most certainly is it's still a fucking top effort.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Houdini on October 16, 2007, 09:58:00 am
Yeah sorry, take the shit out.  It's quite pretty routing.  Wild effort.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 16, 2007, 10:16:46 am
I didnt even know V16 existed. Shows how much I know about bouldering. And climbing for that matter. Is V16 the highest? How many are they, where are they and who did the FA?

There are about 7 claimed at V16 or V15/16. Dai Koyamada has done three of them, including the Wheel of Life. Fred Rouhling has also claimed a couple. Google about and you'll find em. Interestingly, it seems a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16 - http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=515
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 10:39:53 am
Interestingly, it seems a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16 - http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=515

 ??? Where does it say that?
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 16, 2007, 10:47:04 am
Quote
According to Koyamada, Byaku-dou, or "The Road to Heaven," is [...] "at least 8C, V15."

Quote
Fred Rouhling has attempted Byaku-dou and says that it is harder than Dreamtime, 8C, V15

If you are nitpicking, Rouhling may just mean it's a hard V15, or Koyamada may actually believe it's V16. But it could also mean, as the article suggests

Quote
Possible V16 at Hourai, Japan
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 10:56:43 am
Not nitpicking. That totally out of date (Dreamtime is 8b+ anyway) and rather irrelevant article doesn't in any way insinuate that "a Koyamada V15 equals a Rouhling V16" that's all. I thought maybe you'd got that information from elsewhere but it's just the way you'd interpreted it. :)
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Stubbs on October 16, 2007, 11:23:19 am
Vid of caveman which is part of the link up - even this looks knackering!  Is this Koyamada?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yhfRC4nNEA4 (http://youtube.com/watch?v=yhfRC4nNEA4)
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 16, 2007, 11:30:42 am
it's just the way you'd interpreted it. :)
That's your opinion. :)

Anyway, it looks hard (http://www.climbing.com/print/features/CLB-0412-JAPAN-12.jpg)

So does this - footage of Hydrangea V15/16, as well as another project (may have been done by now?). You have to click the corners of the pages until you get to the video.

http://www.rokmek.com/


Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 12:00:07 pm
Opinion my arse.

Does Koyamada ever do a prolem that's less than 20 moves long? Those things do look hard though, I just don't find all that monkeying about in caves particularly inspiring. Good magazine thing that r-man, I wish my German was better cos the Kurt Albert interview would be well worth a read.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: slackline on October 16, 2007, 12:02:17 pm
I wish my German was better cos the Kurt Albert interview would be well worth a read.

You could try bunging the URL into Babelfish (http://babelfish.altavista.com/)
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 16, 2007, 12:15:05 pm
I may see what amusing literal translations it comes up with.

That Marcus Bock route looks fucking brilliant too.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Fiend on October 16, 2007, 12:37:42 pm
R-man you are the Mick Ryan of UKB.

I wonder when people are going to grow out of these "turn the page" flash gimmick websites. Thanks for the heads-up on clicking the corners, trying to turn the pages is a fucking joke.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 16, 2007, 12:45:09 pm
Edit: Stopping before it gets silly. No I'm not. so ner.  ;D
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: a dense loner on October 16, 2007, 08:41:06 pm
r-man nowhere does it say rouhling V16 is Dai V15, that's nobody's opinion except your own. bear in mind when you read into things like 'fred saying dai's prob is harder than something" that they are both mates, not forgetting, of course, both mutant too.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 16, 2007, 11:30:18 pm
 ;D Every time you post, I bet this is what you imagine...  :lol:

(http://www.monroegallery.com/showcase/images/ali_knockout.jpg)

I love you dense. You look so good from down here.  :kiss2:
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: Carnage on October 16, 2007, 11:35:35 pm
Anyway "shit lowball routing" though it most certainly is it's still a fucking top effort.

Too right - Its an awesome bit of climbing and a supreme effort. Its basically a link of the following problems:

Xtreem cool -  V8
Sleepy Hollow- V12
Dead cant dance - V11
Cave rave  - V11/12

Which amounts to about 70+ moves in 35m of horizontal climbing. It must rate as one of the hardest routes in the world. I have no idea how this can be given a 'V' grade tho. I said as much on the Oz forum and got shouted down, not suprisingly.
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: cofe on October 17, 2007, 01:54:50 pm
;D Every time you post, I bet this is what you imagine...  :lol:

(http://www.monroegallery.com/showcase/images/ali_knockout.jpg)

I love you dense. You look so good from down here.  :kiss2:

can you see up his shorts?  ;D
Title: Re: Wheel Of Life repeat.
Post by: r-man on October 17, 2007, 05:05:55 pm
Why, have you misplaced something?  ;D
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