UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: matthew on September 18, 2007, 05:20:38 pm
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Recently started doing the planetfear fingerboard routine but a bit confused...
How long should you wait between reps? I know its 3min between different sets, but how long between each set of reps?? Also should I be pyramiding down the scale as well ie. 3 sets, 2sets, 1set, 2sets, 3sets??
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never having looked at the website take this with a pinch of salt but...
if pyramiding floats your boat do 3,2,1,2,3 like you said. i started off doing something similar and worked up to doing something like 3,3,6,8,3,3. i wouldn't do reps of anything on a fingerboard, they're for hanging on. if you are doing pull-ups on the holds they're too big and you're not getting the best finger workout you can. resting 3 mins after every time you've touched the board
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I found this confusing as well. I finally decided it works if you think of seconds as reps.
So hanging a hold for 7s would be the isometric equivalent to a set of 7 reps of a 'normal' exercise.
I could of course be wildly wrong.
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that sounds plausible. think they need a proof reader
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I'd suggest getting the one from moonclimbing.com instead ;)
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I'll second Paul- that is very good, and it works too!!
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i think pyramids are for the reps not for the sets.
like, given a chosen hold, doing
5 pull ups + 15 kilos
rest
4 pull ups with 17
rest
3 with 20
rest
and so on.