UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: k2ted on August 31, 2007, 08:18:53 pm
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been bouldering for past couple of years with sessions weekly at Boulder UK and Brownstones. Normally 1 - 2 sessions a week, sometimes more. progress seems slow compared to others as can do V4, occasional V5 indoors though struggling to finish V3's at Brownstones. Can easily do most V2's such as Parrs crack, directissima etc. Seems like I'm only slightly stronger than 12 months ago with finger strength definately lacking.
Just ordered moon fingerboard to improve finger strength and no problem doing 12+ pull ups.
Does being 6ft 3in, weighing 14 stone (with very little fat) and fairly large hands make it more difficult to improve??
Any ideas for training as just bouldering seems slow??
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Does being 6ft 3in, weighing 14 stone (with very little fat) and fairly large hands make it more difficult to improve??
No.
I'd suggest reading (all of):
http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx (http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx)
http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=24 (http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=24)
it might give you a few ideas :shrug:
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go to some other areas.
Variety is the spice after all
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Does being 6ft 3in, weighing 14 stone (with very little fat) and fairly large hands make it more difficult to improve??
Bouldering?.....No.
Needlework classes?......here's the bad news......are you sitting comfortably?......
"Ya ain't EVER gonna get beyond V8+ in Embriodery!"
:lol:
JBB
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Does being 6ft 3in, weighing 14 stone (with very little fat) and fairly large hands make it more difficult to improve??
No. If anything you sound like you have a pretty good build for climbing. Is the Brownstones very crimpy (I have never been)? If so big hands may not help. If you are pretty lanky (llike me) working on flexibility may be of more help than working fingers. If you can do 12+ pull ups theres certainly nothnig wrong with arm strength. Just go cautiously on fingerboard at first, you can easily injure yourself.
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Just get on the harder problems at Brownstones and persevere - just by using smaller, crimpier holds your fingerstrength will improve. Don't worry about failing, it's the fact that you are having a go and trying to pull on those small crimpers that will have a beneficial effect.
You might also want to think about pulling on the Bendcrete at Broughton over the winter - this will build fingerstrength in spades.
Also, it's fair to point out that some of the problems at Brownstones are fairly 'knacky' in nature and it pays to have some in-the-know beta from a local.
Just keep pulling and it will come together.
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Does being 6ft 3in, weighing 14 stone (with very little fat) and fairly large hands make it more difficult to improve??
yes, because verybody will downgrade what you send due to you longer reach and physical talent.
so, despite all you efforts, youll always climb at the same level.
all others will improve though.
;)
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seriously,
be patient and always think to the long long period.
"fingers, fingers, fingers" malc smith.
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go and do pigswill, its piss, certainly should be for someone your size.
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Must agree there, not the hardest font 7a in the world. And yes, I think it merits 7a from the sit-start. Not when Hank's is 7a too :-\
<plug> Look at The Wiki (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com) for inspiration.</plug> Or go somewhere different.
Which V3s are you struggling with?
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Now that particular problem is easy (relatively) when you have the beta. Back in the day (v.early 80s - early 1983 to be exact) the sequence took a lot of working out. There were no pads, spotters (nobody could be arsed really), wikis, online video, forums etc, boots were crap and you just had to graft at the rock face to secure success. Now it's all piss and far too easy. ;)
Christ, it was shite really.
To the original OP - like Nibs says you have to think long term with fingers, but the strength will definitely come and you'll be laughing all the way to V10.
Get to it.
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<plug> Look at The Wiki (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com) for inspiration.</plug> Or go somewhere different.
Which V3s are you struggling with?
been trying boopers for about 3 weeks. Managed to get to the two handholds above horizontal crack but lack nerve to rock over and standup on right foot. fingers don't feel good on the two small holds above horizontal crack. Also thought I'd finished Verdinand (v. long reach helpful) but used horizontal jug on verdigris. Not sure where hands go on verdigris, have looked at wiki but cant figure it out when there.
Just on a mission to get strong fingers and now doing 3-4 sessions per week, though still got sore forearms from sunday afternoon at Boulder Uk. Re: trying other spots I meant to go Bridestones last friday but rained off :(
Av to say the wiki is very good site...
cheers for the info.
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Verdigris/ Verdinand are a tad eliminate. Verdinand uses the holds in the groove after the good hold. Lanky method:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDAeBQXiQkw.
Holds on Verdigris are not allowed (including the big slot on the right).
Verdigris: I use a small hold for the right hand (above the jug) and a sidepull for the left. Tenuous smear up and get better holds. Lanky method:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P539ZqzDt0I
Boopers is a bit awkward for V3 so I wouldn't worry too much. No video (yet) I'm afraid, it's on my to do list.
Get yourself to Widdop too, lots of lower grade problems. Bridestones is ace, but can be a bit knacky so don't get disheartened if you get spanked on the easier problems. Just get out and explore, and enjoy!!