UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Paul B on August 12, 2007, 02:00:31 pm
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Apologies if there has already been a thread about this...
Read the last two blog entries from Dave Macelod's Blog:
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/ (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
and check out the route with annotation:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/RryyTdCA8UI/AAAAAAAAAho/w3mvIIxCD3E/s1600-h/E10+line+from+base.jpg (http://bp3.blogger.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/RryyTdCA8UI/AAAAAAAAAho/w3mvIIxCD3E/s1600-h/E10+line+from+base.jpg)
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So anyone on the planet with either a telly or an internet connection will be able to catch it. The Great Climb’s website is live on Monday www.bbc.co.uk/greatclimb
This sums up nicely why I don't think he's as modest as he makes out to be...
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I hate to say it but he seems to have had lessons from the John Dunne school of publicity? :shrug: it seems like a strange thing to do and its not what I think of when I think of hard climbing....
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If you are a professional climber then you probably cant afford to worry about whether people will think you are modest or not. Its hardly over the top self promotion is it? If the BBC approached me saying they wanted to do a 6 hour live show with me climbing a new eliminate at minus ten, and they would pay me for it, then I would milk it for every penny.
I though he came across as a nice bloke when I went to see his lecture, but thats neither here nor there.
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If you are a professional climber then you probably cant afford to worry about whether people will think you are modest or not.....
..... then I would milk it for every penny.
Maybe my comment was a tad harsh and you make a fair point; with the lack of money in the sport any opportunity that can possibly help sustain a pro climber must be snapped at rather than passed up. Just the whole concept seems very strange to me, especially an annotated diagram of a project route.
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I'd rather watch Woz at Stoney for six hours than I would McLeod... :-\
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I knew Dave when I (and indeed he) were at Uni. He's very down to earth and a decent guy. He makes his money from his climbing so I can see where's he's coming from.
Andi: What about Dumby Dave at Stoney? Pinch 3?
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If you want to make money doing something you love, you have to embrace the different challenges that such an enterprise creates.
Shakespeare pandered to the queen, Dave Macleod climbs something for tele. Perhaps the comparison is a little grandiose, but you see my point.
I'm looking forward to the program - it's an intriguing situation. Though the cameras may be rolling, the climbing will be no less real.
Good luck to him.
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I hate to say it but he seems to have had lessons from the John Dunne school of publicity? :shrug: it seems like a strange thing to do and its not what I think of when I think of hard climbing....
I think that's a bit disingenuous from the bloke who has, in the past , made a point about the lack of opportunities for professional climbers. I can't believe the pious regard in which people hold climbing, it's just a bit of fun not a spiritual quest and even the Dalai Lama goes on TV now and again to help him get what he wants.
Good luck to DM and anyone as keen as him about climbing, it's not like he's some charlatan riding on the coat tails of climbing because of it's extreme image (q.v. Bear Grylls, Anabell Bond) but a genuine enthusiast just like you or anyone else on here.
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Oops, on re-reading that sounds like a bigger criticism of Paul than was intended, more a general point than one aimed at Paul in particular. :)
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I think that's a bit disingenuous from the bloke who has, in the past , made a point about the lack of opportunities for professional climbers.
No offence taken, I realised that my point came over a little harsh after andi replied..... I don't know what it is about this climbing Tv thing that I dont like it just all seems a little odd (maybe because its a first?)
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If you actually meet Dave, he is a very modest, self-effacing guy. In fact its quite hard to square the reality with the media profile, clearly he's very ambitious and driven underneath.
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how do you downclimb a dyno?!
and check out the route with annotation:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/RryyTdCA8UI/AAAAAAAAAho/w3mvIIxCD3E/s1600-h/E10+line+from+base.jpg (http://bp3.blogger.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/RryyTdCA8UI/AAAAAAAAAho/w3mvIIxCD3E/s1600-h/E10+line+from+base.jpg)
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Reverse dyno?
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Paul, I share your unease about this - it doesn't tempt me into any Wilson-esque hysteria but it does seem a bit worrying.
I have a lot of respect for Dave not just as a climber but as someone who clearly and openly speaks his mind about the climbing scene and climbing philosophy. I find his commentary on cutting edge routes, grades, and the scene to be a refreshing change, and generally find his publicity machine fits harmoniously with that.
But I do wonder if it's going a little far in this case - not really in terms of the publicity, I think it's great to have the possibility of a hard first ascent being filmed for national (or at least Scottish) TV, and have no problem with Dave's climbing being promoted in that way. I guess I feel a bit uneasy about the "cutting edge fatal danger" side, the possibility of something going wrong (although it's much more likely the weather fucks it all off) and the possible effect on Dave's climbing - there could be a lot of pressure there to do it for that one TV event which doesn't quite sit with Dave's often-espoused purer motivations.
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I agree, a lot of non-climbers out there may well tune in for the 'death factor', which is not the thing I personally think should be promoted. Yes, Dave may well do the first ascent of an E10, which would be well newsworthy, but if he fails that would be even more newsworthy...
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For anyone wanting to watch this - it seems it's been postponed due to bad weather:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/greatclimb/
Currently scheduled to go ahead on the 19th (Sunday)
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Reverse dyno?
Exactly what I thought!
Other than that, I don't think it's any harm at all and gives the sport a bit of publicity and it's all good fun. If it wasn't for things like this plus overgrading, sandbagging, bull, ballpointing, bravado etc we would have a very dull sport indeeed. This is the kind of stuff that gives us something to talk about other than whether V grades are better than font grades and if there is truly a place for V8+ in our grading system.
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Now headpointed. (http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Now headpointed. (http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
Seems like a pretty honest account. Fine effort too.
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I got scared just reading this account of it :o
http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2007/08/great-climb-to-hell-and-back.html
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my god finger tips were greasing of the key board reading that.
great blog.
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note to self: always make sure all the holds are dry before attempting an E10.
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The rest of the route was filmed. It will broadcast on BBC sometime before Christmas. It will be fascinating, but don’t expect to ‘enjoy’ it.
Powerful stuff
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Sounds like it was dangerously close to the first climbing "snuff" movie.