UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: GaryB on July 27, 2007, 08:41:10 am
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After searching the internet for a good training programme I stumbled accross this little number (in pdf)
http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
Its free and has permission to distribute it to who ever.
Sorry if this is a repost, I thought I'd share it with those who haven't seen it before
Enjoy
Gaz
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A lot of sound advice, and a lot of gibberish
1. Strength - The ability for the muscle to stay contracted under a maximum load.
2. Power - The ability to generate the contraction of strength.
Hand strength is the ability to clamp down on holds. It can be defined as contact
strength (slopers), crimp strength, pocket strength, or pinch strength.
indoors routes tend to be more consistent meaning that a 5.12 will have lots of 5.12 moves
stacked on top of each other
No wonder it is free. That guy needs an editor.
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He does seem confused by some of these basic definitions, but the again so does Horst.