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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: r-man on July 22, 2007, 11:08:51 am

Title: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: r-man on July 22, 2007, 11:08:51 am

A friend of mine did some trad at Beeston Tor and came a cross a bolted overhanging wall (possibly innaccessible by foot). Does anyone know anything about this? What are the routes?

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: Hydraulic Man on July 22, 2007, 11:20:34 am

Is this the line of Bolts to the right of Budgie? Bolted years ago but not completed (I think)

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: grimer on July 22, 2007, 12:01:32 pm

There's an old |Simon Nadin route called 666 high up in the cave, 7c-7c+, and a Zippy / Christian Klem route beside it 7b / 7b+ I think.

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 23, 2007, 06:12:26 am

i thought a load more stuff was developed 10-years or so ago by a crew from Staffs - seem to recall Rich Pickford having a photocopied topo for a bunch of sport routes when I worked in Mtn Fever way back when...

AndiT / Gus et al might be able to shed some more light on it?

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: AndiT on July 23, 2007, 08:18:00 am

Cooper's Cave?

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: Ru on July 23, 2007, 08:26:32 am

There's a few routes through the roof that are bolted - 666 (ex 8a, Zippy thought 7c) Kristian Clemmow's line to the left, The Beesting, 8a, Kristian's project (somewhere on that roof).

Also Honorary Buoux, 7c, on the overhanging wall to the right of Budgie.

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: leeroy on June 23, 2012, 07:56:53 pm

did honorary buoux today. if you can bare the approach, e1 4a has been suggested ;), and the high first bolt (wires/peg beneath) then you will find a very good route on brilliant rock. it was bone dry today and due to its position on the crag i doubt the meat of the route gets wet very often. its pretty soft and would make a good first 7c / 7c flash. get to it!

the roof looked brill aswell but didnt get across there.

Title: Re: Beeston Tor Sport?
Post by: kc on June 23, 2012, 09:35:20 pm

Ok
Routes start in the ivy gash and are as follows:
Beeesting 8a a diagonal line with an enormous move right at the start to reach a big hole.
 Zips bolted a line that joined this post crux but made a poor job of gluing the holds. This is an open project that will need critical maintenance before it goes.

Beeston Bomber 8a+ (spot the crude reference) again super reachy pocket pulling.

666 7c+? I thought hard for 7c

Beest it 7b not so good.

Honorary Buoux 7c over on the right was climbed on the old tatty bolts and needs sorting out really.

If you don't have the new RockFax then take a look at this Topo I knocked up a few years ago.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=100361 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=100361)