UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greg C on May 06, 2007, 12:01:59 pm
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Couple of news worthy bits and bobs...
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html
Apologies for the usual third person story telling but it's hard to report this sort of guff any other way.
By the way if you like small holds and limestone New(er) Rose is the best of the best!!! The sitter will go too although cooler conditions will probably be needed.
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we wouldnt mind greg its when you do it during normal conversation that it gets a bit disturbing ;D
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Nice video Greg. That was always a problem I wanted to do but never got round to. Oh, well. :shrug:
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Also, I didn't see a link to your video of THE COIL V7/8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMgNANV2rzY). Another cool video. :thumbsup:
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Greg, didn't realise that you'd just done Aeons too when we were talking yesterday. Good effort. It may be worth noting or recording that
Skeletor/Dolph Lundgren Mick did the traverse there and back a few years ago too (although in his usual elusive/retiring style he only told a few people).
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Apologies for the usual third person story telling but it's hard to report this sort of guff any other way.
One isn't particularly bothered how one reports one's ascents, it's a bloody good effort nonetheless.
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Greg, didn't realise that you'd just done Aeons too when we were talking yesterday. Good effort. It may be worth noting or recording that Skeletor/Dolph Lundgren Mick did the traverse there and back a few years ago too (although in his usual elusive/retiring style he only told a few people).
Now then Ben, good to catch up yesterday.
I did know that Mick had done some stuff on the Aeon buttress, although I presumed that as it was not common knowledge at the time he would have used the jug on the arete to the left of the finishing crack, and whilst anyone without a penchant for the elimination of obvious holds - JONATHAN! - would have used this, it's not in on Aeons or Aeon Reverse, but if I'm mistaken then hats off to him and the second ascent goes to Mr. Drago. ;)
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'ello 'ello 'ello officer! ;)
Erm, God only knows what beta he used, probably just Power of Greyskull. I'm very happy to let Mick know that he used dozens of illegal holds and that he actually climbed a 7b+. The best thing about doing this would be that he's likely to get so wound up about it he'll drive up there week after week until he gets it using the "proper" sequence, probably getting some kind of injury in the process. ::) ;) So you can keep the hat on for now.
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Hello again Greg,
Having discussed this last night with Lion-O (he was just passing, honestly we don't spend all our evenings talking about limestone eliminates), he says that Mr Drago did Aeons using the instructions provided by Gaskins on the old Fairy Steps topo that he did years ago. Don't know whether that means much to you? It doesn't to me really.
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As I thought.
This is the text from the original Fairy Steps topo...
V4 Crack on left of wall from sitting start (V2 from standing).
AEONS V13 ** Link the 2 traverses L-R-L (don't use crack on R to rest) and finish up the V4 crack.
as you can see The Big G forgot (or more likely thought "as if anyone would use a jug!" ;) )to point out the jug (left of the crack) ain't in.
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Fuckin' hell that was a quick response Greg. Lion-O didn't understand when I tried to explain about what you'd said about the jug so I guessed Skeletor didn't know about that further rule either.
as you can see The Big G forgot (or more likely thought "as if anyone would use a jug!" ;) )to point out the jug (left of the crack) ain't in.
:lol: :lol:
Yeah, I have to admit it seems strange that anyone would even consider using good holds on a boulder problem! Surely anything beyond first knuckle is just cheating? ::) ;)
Anyway, forget all this daftness and well done on your ascent (or should that be your "shuffle and back") Greg. Very impressive now I understand the true rules. I'll get on to telling Mick that he needs to get obsessed again.
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Whilst we're on the subject of crag policing, perhaps I could clarify the exact start of the H20 sitter. Do both hands have to start matched on the crimp, or can you start left hand crimp, right hand mono?
It still amazes me that a fully grown man is cultivating his haircut to emulate Lion-O. Genius.
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Haven't done this for a fair while but if my memory serves me correctly it's 7b starting both hands on the edge and 7a+ for one hand on the edge and the other in the pocket.
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Nice one cheers Greg. Saw in the topo that it got V8+, but couldn't decipher where the policed start was.
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well you make sure that you stick to the correct holds tom otherwise the police will be knocking at your door with their beating sticks out!! :spank:
ill come give you a spot on it at some point. did you do flying finish??
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well you make sure that you stick to the correct holds tom otherwise the police will be knocking at your door with their beating sticks out!! :spank:
ill come give you a spot on it at some point. did you do flying finish??
You steer clear of me when your beating your stick!
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More worrying Greg, is that there was to be the beating of sticks (plural) and not just solitary stick beating. I may avoid the place for a bit if there is going to be group stick beating going on.
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If there's going to be some homoerotic stick fetishist flogging action on the go, think I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.
Cheers Chap-master - Stop caning the beer and come help me cane some of the questionable beta I have seen being deployed at Woodwell of late.
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I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.
How about actually using some "in bounds" holds occasionally? Rather than using those used by Owen or any others that your far too lanky frame can reach.
That was a joke by the way and not meant as having any basis in truth what so ever.
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I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.
How about actually using some "in bounds" holds occasionally? Rather than using those used by Owen or any others that your far too lanky frame can reach.
That was a joke by the way and not meant as having any basis in truth what so ever.
no basis in truth? how about on the problem at woodwell with the triangle pinch that those lanky bastards skip out. cheats!!!
im off to beat my stick :wank:
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no basis in truth? how about on the problem at woodwell with the triangle pinch that those lanky bastards skip out. cheats!!!
im off to beat my stick :wank:
Right, I've just spent most of last night trying to work out which triangle pinch you're on about and I know I'm being really dense by forgetting some really obvious hold on some really obvious problem. Put me out of my misery and tell me please. Once I know, then I can beat my stick too.
And on the subject of lanky cheats, let's not even mention sneaky toe hooks due to extendable legs.
See I didn't even mention it.
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I believe chappers is talking about the triangular pinch on "The Beauty of Being Numb"?
NEWS UPDATE: Went to Farleton last night to gets some shots on New Rose and did the sitter (superb conditions) but also seemed to be able to almost statically lap the stand-up (it was quite humid when I initially did it) so I'm going to downgrade the stand-up to a sturdy 7c and the sitter gets 7c/+... bloody hell, conditions really are an annoying feature when trying to grade problems!
Also did a new problem on the crag, I'll get news of this up on LB once I've thought of a name.
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NEWS UPDATE: Went to Farleton last night to gets some shots on New Rose and did the sitter (superb conditions) but also seemed to be able to almost statically lap the stand-up (it was quite humid when I initially did it) so I'm going to downgrade the stand-up to a sturdy 7c and the sitter gets 7c/+... bloody hell, conditions really are an annoying feature when trying to grade problems!
Well done (again)! I'll have to drag my fat arse up there sometime, been meaning to have a look for ages.
Also did a new problem on the crag, I'll get news of this up on LB once I've thought of a name.
Why not call it "New Goose" or "Goose Rose"? :whistle:
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New problem info up...
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html
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Updated John's old topo with grade updates missing lines etc.
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f63.pdf
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Good work Greg. I'm getting more and more psyched for a visit.
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Nice work Greg. I'm pleased that you've brought the new grade for New Rose down to 7c (!!), that just about brings it into my potential remit! Not that I'll probably get anywhere near it but that kind of wall climb is sometimes my thang.
Anyway I may try to get across to Farleton at the weekend if there is any dry weather. What's it been like up your way the past few days? Is everything getting seepful again?
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It rained heavily last night and this morning but sunny now. The Farleton stuff drys really quickly and takes very little, if any, seepage.
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Thanks Greg. Obviously Woodwell is likely to get visited this weekend at some point but I'm keen to traipse around Farleton looking for bits of rock that I can then fail to ascend.
Take it easy.
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Thanks Greg. Obviously Woodwell is likely to get visited this weekend at some point but I'm keen to traipse around Farleton looking for bits of rock that I can then fail to ascend.
Me too, but the forecast for the weekend is :wank:
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I believe chappers is talking about the triangular pinch on "The Beauty of Being Numb"?
correct greg.
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Whilst over a certain road and in the spirit of all things Woodwell, I linked the start of Fatboy into Alien Head today. Doubtless it will have been climbed many, many times previously, but it's probably worth noting (get the pencil out and annotate those topos people) if you visit Woodwell regularly and enjoy dragging yourself sideways across from one problem to another. Adds about half a dozen hand movements and a load of body tension into Alien Head and is actually quite rewarding - or so I thought anyway.
Note to self: Must get a life.
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Had a wander around Farleton today. Had a play on New Rose and The Coil, nice moves but it was too hot for any serious attempts.
Whiteout looks good but didn't try it.
Anyone know about Surfer Rosa? I tried it strictly using the slopes on the lip, it felt 7b that way (although conditions weren't good). I noted higher holds were chalked up, tried it and it felt about 7a ish, but also felt like a cop out. Any info welcome. Hopefully a shit vid will follow soon. Cool place :thumbsup:
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Also, because I got a bit lost, here's a map to help anyone going.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Farleton.png)
For New Rose head up the bridleway from Holme Park Farm. Go through the gate next to the water pipe sign and go straight on. Gp through a second gate, then go left on an obvious track. Follow this and New Rose is obvious on your right. If you then go back down the hill but bear right onto the next tier down, you get to the main crag. Go along this to pretty much the end and The Coil is obvious.
For Whiteout, follow the track from the car park at 552789 up the hill. Where the crag turn a corner you'll see the boulder.
For Surfer Rosa, park at the same place but take the left branch of the path. Follow this through a gate and across a green field. Through another gate and snake downhill to another gate. Go through this, then right. Keep on this track uphill until the boulder is seen on the right. Go back the same way, there's no path back if you carry on uphill (as I found out).
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Hopefully a shit vid will follow soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xOYu-sAg4Y (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xOYu-sAg4Y)
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Also, because I got a bit lost, here's a map to help anyone going.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Farleton.png)
Thats a great map - what program/website did you use/get the image from?
Thanks,
Tom
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Stole it from a PDF of walks in the area (http://www.whittingtonvillage.fsnet.co.uk/images/whittington_walks/farleton_fell.pdf), then modified it with an image editor.
I usually use MemoryMap, but it didn't have all the smaller paths on it.
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hi liked the vid must get up there.whats the tune to the vid sound familar :bounce:
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hi liked the vid must get up there.whats the tune to the vid sound familar :bounce:
Blank- Alloy Cowboy Resurrection
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ReBirth?
That vid was shit, correct. Was that New Rose you nearly stuck the break on?
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ReBirth?
Yes.
Was that New Rose you nearly stuck the break on?
Yes.
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Done a Google map with some problems marked. If anyone knows where Flakes Traverse is let me know!!
Hope it helps (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=110529737229356276420.00046862303ed4f696353&ll=54.209344,-2.703066&spn=0.012072,0.027637&t=h&z=15)
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Just to resurrect a pic of Jordan on Pandemonium 7c+/8a
(http://web.8a.nu/images/gallery/18228_633259768063593750.jpg)
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Looks like he's about to pass a rather uncomfortable stool that the spotter can't wait to catch :lol:
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That's a boss photo that is 8)
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Looks like he's about to pass a rather uncomfortable stool that the spotter can't wait to catch :lol:
F*ck - I've certainly never adopted a pose like that when trying to squeeze out a tricky one!
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Looks like he's about to pass a rather uncomfortable stool that the spotter can't wait to catch :lol:
F*ck - I've certainly never adopted a pose like that when trying to squeeze out a tricky one!
You would if you've ever had to use the toilets at Glastonbury, contact with toilet seats isn't really an option, especially when the mountain of turds, toilet paper, used sanitary products etc. is actually above the level of the seat!
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Pandemonium looks class. Is it at Farleton too sorry?
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Yes.
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Just for Fiend, a short film of some easy lowballs:
http://www.vimeo.com/5133919 (http://www.vimeo.com/5133919)
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Inline with GCW's Farleton theme, I have done a new guide covering Farleton, Dalton Crags & Hutton Roof (these second two areas have not been documented before):
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html (http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html)
There will be a Hi-Res version available soon. Enjoy...
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Inline with GCW's Farleton theme, I have done a new guide covering Farleton, Dalton Crags & Hutton Roof (these second two areas have not been documented before):
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html (http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html)
There will be a Hi-Res version available soon. Enjoy...
THats ace - looking forward to heading up that way again soon.. top job. :thumbsup:
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New Rose 7B? Wasn't it 7C/+? Fuck that's a downgrade!! Felt harder than 7B to me on a brief attempt, but I am short.
Pandemonium looks ace, I'll have to drag myself back up that hill.
On a seperate note I'm really liking the look of your topo's Greg, very professional looking nice one.
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The fridge looks something of a classic eh.
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New Rose is an awkward one, grade wise. I was up there recently with two friends, both of a similar standard, one at the tall end of the spectrum and the other at the shorter end, with me of an "average height" in between. I was keen to see the taller friend try out GCW's lanky method (i.e. low left foot in a big niche rather than on a high naff smear), which he did, making short work of it in the process - second go with no beta as such. I then managed to make the stretch and do it with this lanky sequence too (felt 7a+/7b to me with this method). My shorter friend then managed the problem the original way, thinking it was probably top-end 7b+/7c. So basically its somewhere between 7a+ and low end 7c depending on your reach and leg length. ???
The Fridge is a very cool and interesting feature/problem, but not as much of a classic as 'Ingleborough Wall'. Incidentally, I was going to give The Fridge 7a+, but Moo persuaded me to give it 7b. All feedback welcome....
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I only pursuaded you it was 7b cause i'm shit at rock climbing though so it could well be 7a+
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What's with the "lank" nonsense? It's technique, not lank.
For what it's worth, I reckon New Rose felt a good 2 grades harder than Shallow Grave, more than 2 grades harder than Totally Focussed SDS, far harder than Whister and Warton's Wall. Now, I haven't held the break so I admit I can't comment, but 7a+ seems very harsh unless some of the other stuff gets put down to 6c+/7a. :shrug:
But I'd agree with Greg that New Rose is a very "morpho" problem, and as such is a nightmare to pin a single grade on. (I'd have said 7b/+, but I'll let you know when I go back next year).
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On a seperate note I'm really liking the look of your topo's Greg, very professional looking nice one.
Not south lakes, but I've had a couple of Bowderstone sessions recently using Greg's topo, and the number of people wandering back and forth with the rockfax guide that I've been able to help out using it is, I think, a reflection of it's quality, and clarity at what must be a tricky venue to make clear. Nice one Greg, and Nige.
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I might be wrong on this Greg, but I think the classic way of doing Nick's Traverse at Hutton Roof is right to left. That said, it doesn't make much difference to the grade (left to right always seemed a bit harder). Also, any thoughts on re-spotting the holds? Anyone who didn't already know the problem would probably struggle to work it out with the markings in their current state.
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Without asking Nick Conway, I guess it's probably a bit difficult to ascertain exactly which way he intended it to go, the Lancs guide says: "Traverse the wall at low-level, left OR right using only the red-spotted hand holds". I have always gone left to right, as this flows far better and has a more logical starting point. Funnily enough I always thought it was harder right to left, but hey there you go. As you can climb it in both directions at roughly the same grade I don't think it's a major issue. There are only a couple holds on which the dots have worn beyond visibility and it's pretty obvious to workout which they are, however, I'm quite happy to re-dot the holds some time.
Incidentally the "Forgotten Walls" are worth a look. The lower wall has a really cool, not to mention hard, low right to left traverse and the two main straight ups are quality.
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Cheers Greg. Forgot to mention, excellent topo as usual. Looking forward to heading back to Newbiggin Crags to find this new stuff. I did Whiteout and Surfer Rosa years ago with the original topo/map from OTE, but for some reason failed to notice any other crags in the area. Looks like another good find.
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Without asking Nick Conway
I see Nick a fair bit in Yorkshire so will ask him if its any use?
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Nice work Greg. Makes me keen to visit lakes limestone again, lots of stuff to do.
That rooflands area sounds intriguing - are we talking big roofs, or just feet on the back jobbies? I do luv a good roofer.
Oh, and the pedant in me can't resist pointing out that the phrase is top drawer (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/top%20drawer) not top draw. ;)
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Had a visit to Dalton Crag Boulders, I can recommend Umbongo- it's a class problem
http://www.vimeo.com/5453607 (http://www.vimeo.com/5453607)
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Just for clarification, I'm told that on Umbongo the crimp I use for my left hand isn't in, you have to campus from the slopers straight to the break.
Vid courtesy of Greg:
http://www.vimeo.com/5460387 (http://www.vimeo.com/5460387)
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Went to Farleton the other day after seeing it on the lakes bloc website, seemed perfect for what we wanted to do for the day, really enjoyed "The coil" and the 6c+ to the right of it, can't remember the name but it was great. There is some very fingery climbing.
Having had a go on new rose it seemed very hard and I couldn't work out the beta, I was reaching up for a crozzly painful hold with my right hand and using the obvious shelf/crimp with my left and then spreading my feet out on some pretty good footholds. Didn't really know what to do after that??
Anyway Farleton is great, cheers Greg for putting up the topo!
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forgot to mention about both the umbongo vids. you can't use the crimp out left, on that bit of wall thats priceless. the worlds gone mad, wibble
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the worlds gone mad, wibble
I find myself in agreement, frisnit frisnit...
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Went to Farleton the other day after seeing it on the lakes bloc website, seemed perfect for what we wanted to do for the day, really enjoyed "The coil" and the 6c+ to the right of it, can't remember the name but it was great. There is some very fingery climbing.
Having had a go on new rose it seemed very hard and I couldn't work out the beta, I was reaching up for a crozzly painful hold with my right hand and using the obvious shelf/crimp with my left and then spreading my feet out on some pretty good footholds. Didn't really know what to do after that??
Anyway Farleton is great, cheers Greg for putting up the topo!
Sorry, missed your post somehow.
There's a couple of ways of doing it. Greg had a nice video on YouTube but he seems to have removed it.
SamD flashed it (and agreed with Greg's 7a+/b)- pulled on RH on nasty pocket thing, LH on low good edge. RF on obvious high hold and pull on, LF shares good edge with LH. Rock on LF to static to the break with LH.
My method was to do the same start, low LF (obvious hold) with RF good hold. Pull on, LH to high edge. Pull up and get LF on good edge, LH to break. Hard for the non-lanksters. Greg suggests 7a+/b.
Greg's other method did the same but slapped to the high crimp with the LH, then slap the break with RH (LF not on much for those moves). This is where the 7c/+ grade came from.
Hope that helps!
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Without asking Nick Conway
I see Nick a fair bit in Yorkshire so will ask him if its any use?
chris says hi :wave:
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More Silverdale Jinx:
http://vimeo.com/6022735 (http://vimeo.com/6022735)
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A couple of the newer things from Newbiggin.
Two From Newbiggin (http://vimeo.com/8842537)
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You must have been pretty desperate to get out that day! Looks even more uninspiring than brownstones ;)
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I doubt anything else within 2 hours drive would have been dry.
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A couple of the newer things from Newbiggin.
Two From Newbiggin (http://vimeo.com/8842537)
It seems the foot block is out of bounds on Whiteout Roof. The way we did it was 7a+, it'll add a bit without the block- a pretty stiff pull on a small edge.