UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: hongkongstuey on October 18, 2002, 12:55:56 am
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Bigger Better and Harder than Deliverance or the Buckstone - coming soon to a gallery near you (well, the one on this site actually):
The Big Dyno, Roaches Lower Tier, V8
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/DYNO.jpg)
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i've also got some video clips of people doing it which i'll edit together and get on the net at some point
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Nice pic Stu, and thanks for sending us a copy - keen to see the vid. We might be off to that side of the Peak this weekend so might try to get some footage too - might look good filming it from above...
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it does - although i think the best angle i got was from hanging off the arete and shooting diagonally down. distance shots of it also look good
the misses is off out of town for a few days so i can hop on the computer and start editing stuff without fear of being called a crap boyfriend - will let you know when its done
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We might have two cams out too which will be nice... Rumours of Obsession Fatale possibly being done this w/e too which will be nice to watch with sweaty palms
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I'll be well impressed if those boys onsight it - its not that hard but it would be easy to bugger it up ala Kevin Thaw style - any footage would be interesting to watch!
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I'll be well impressed if those boys onsight it
Think that's the idea...
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Bubba - heres what you've been waiting for:
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/Gallery/roachesdyno.mov
and another clip of the classic arete problem at the upper tier:
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/Gallery/roachesarete.mov
followed jons formating advice for quicktime as its well easy to do - plus premiere etc are giving me massive hassle at the minute (won't capture or play any imported clips! just jumps from opening frame to final one! its doing my head in)
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forgot to say - both clips are relatively small - <2mb - so shouldn't take too long to down load - or eat up too much of my bandwidth (feel free to host them here if you want as i'm gonna e mail the parties involved, let them watch them then take them off the site :md:
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Cheers for the link Stu, will view them after work - quicktime won't install on this box for some reason.....
Possibly host them for you, but I'll see how bandwidth goes on the new server - you could always put them in a password protected area of your site?
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nice vids.
That dyno looks piss, but i expect its deceptive!
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That dyno looks piss
If only it were! like i said, it took me three months of trying on a regular basis before i eventually snagged it - for comparison, the Buckstone took me half hour anmd a handful of tries
Andi makes it look easy mainly due to him being about 6ft 3 or something!
Hint if you try it - go for the top with the right hand - as per photo at top of thread - its easier that way
think the grade settled at V8 (no plus!) / Font 7b+ / UK ungradeable!
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yeah, i suppose the buckstone is quite straightforward in comparison, i.e. not off undercuts.
Hopefully i will be with a krew ripping up the roachez this weekend, weather permitting. If so I'll certainly have a go cuz it looks mental. I take it the top hold is fairly good?
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Anyone ever tried that one at Brimham?? Even bigger than the Roaches one - ridiculous problem.
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I take it the top hold is fairly good?
Its ok but certainly no jug - a good hold to loose a stack load of skin off - its one of those dyno's where you don't want to find yourself going either up or down when you hit the hold
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a good hold to loose a stack load of skin off
Cheers for the beta - a good one to flash then!! (in my dreams)
.....one of those dyno's where....
Thats a hell of an apostrophe abuse. :wink:
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That dyno is f**king menkle. It dosn't look that hard but when I hung off the top hold, my feet were about two foot above the starting hand holds :eek3: . The problem to the far left of the dyno is good, B6 acording to PB.
Do you fancy a trip to the Roaches at the weekend Mike? It would be good to meet up with Mr G and crew :lol: , we could also give justin a call.
Cheers
James
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I'd be up for it in theory if we get a cold day - see what the others want to do....mind you, the impreza will have just been chipped so any excuse for a drive :P
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(Finally he outwits the proxy server and mangages to install QT)
Good vids Stu!
Who's the lass on the arete? - like her style.....
The one of the dyno makes it look much smaller than it is in real life - doesn't look to bad on the vid - weird.
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- like her style......
I've never heard it called that before. :whip:
I've also never seen the arete done that way before, i usualy work my RH up the arete, via that tiny crimp, and slap for the top. But i guess she ain't 6'1".
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The impreza chiped, :hyper: . You can realy test it out on those back roads to the roaches.
I am keen to get on Bobba Fet and that project in the cellar that we were trying. You need to complete that slab direct as well and get yourself another V8 tick.
Cheers
James[/i]
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I've never heard it called that before.
Heh heh, that is actually what I meant, you filthhound you!
I've also never seen the arete done that way before
Nor me, might try it though as it's gotta be better than my way :?
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You need to complete that slab direct as well and get yourself another V8 tick.
Too right, though of course, grades are meaningless to me, I just climb for the motion :wink:
Chip had better make a difference or I'll be most unhappy. Just been reading horror stories about modded Prezas on scoobynet - gotta be well careful modding turbos by the sounds of it.
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At the risk of sounding like a complete knobsack (a risk I run quite frequently), what is all this shiz about a "chip"? :huh: In my vocab, I only know "chip" to mean one of the following: a piece of fried potato, a vandalised hold, a hole in yer paintwork, or something you get done to allow a playstation to play copied games, and i assume you are really refering to neither of the above.
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The lass is Luisa - Gus from Mountain Fevers bird - she uses cocktalk a bit i think (and not just to Gus fnar fnar)
if yoiu want a larf, try the arete one handed (left is advisable) its a nice party piece to have sorted to impress punters (topping out one handed is quite interesting though!)
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Chipping is re-mapping the ECU on a fuel injected car (the thingy that controls when the injectors fire, etc). The standard chip program is often a bit wooly to take into account different altitudes, emissions regs, crap fuel, etc, so a re-map just optimises it.
It's a bit hit and miss I find. On my two last cars it varied. I had an E36 BMW 325i which it made a big difference too, and then an old bimmer 535 which it didn't do that much too (largely to the extremely restrictive exhaust system, methinks). So, fingers crossed. The Preza already has a filter and pipe which helps maginify any effects of the chip.
I just like chipping things I think - my mobike is chipped, my old psx was chipped, we're thinking of getting the cat chipped :!: and I'm trying to find a ps2 chip that doesn't involve 5 hours with a soldering iron to install.
Chipping is righteous, chipping is good.
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The lass is Luisa -
That'll be Ms Giles then - she's a good trad climber too I hear.....well her CT profile seems to say so anyway....
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I gets you. Cheerz for clearing that one up.
I'm trying to find a ps2 chip that doesn't involve 5 hours with a soldering iron to install.
Theres probably a bloke down the <insert pub name> that can do it for a tenner - there seems to be one in every pub in south yorkshire. Or failing that, some car boot sale near Donny.
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Lot trickier that than the ps1 mod apparantly, and much more illegal, so lots of the places you used to be able to get yer ps1 done at won't touch ps2.
I'd do it myself, but am not confident at my soldering ability and it'd be too easy to trash you ps2. You can get it done via courier for £100 which when you think about it, is only the price of a couple of games, so would quickly repay itself. Then of course you need a DVD writer, and lots of hiring from Blockybuster.....
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It is not too hard if you go with both hands/double believe it or not. It makes it easyier to catch it latch it and then dispatch it?
geeza
Are you over here this wknd then?
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Is it esssential to be quite so limp-wristed with the trailing hand, like Stu is in the photo? :wink:
(http://www.ukbouldering.com/media/images/roachesdyno.jpg)
Did he shout "oooh shut that door" upon landing it? :lool:
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hes sooooooooooooo butch that stuey, all that eastern promise :wink:
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Is it esssential to be quite so limp-wristed with the trailing hand, like Stu is in the photo? :wink:
what can i say................................ :oops:
its a bizarre one if you go with your right hand as you end up trailing the back of your left one up the rock as you jump - loosing much skin in the process
i suspect the shout was more along the lines of "take that you bastard" having just latched a move i'd been trying for an eternity. as for that eastern promise..... you boyz don't know what you're missing.........