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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Joe Brown on April 22, 2007, 05:45:44 pm

Title: Crag graf
Post by: Joe Brown on April 22, 2007, 05:45:44 pm
Whoever used chalk to draw a picture of a spunking cock under The Pinch at that crag this weekend, I brushed it off. Next time you decide to do a self-portrait try using a pen and paper.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: mini on April 22, 2007, 06:23:45 pm
Probably some chav.

Failing that could be a mute boulderer wanting to let of some steam for not being strong enough!
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 23, 2007, 09:54:49 am
Was this penis wider than it was long?  If so the list of possible perpetraters would be very short (ie one). With the crag in question being steeper than 'slightly overhanging', it would also fit with mini's Cracker-esque crime psychology.

Come on Choaderson admit it.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: ehmojow on April 23, 2007, 09:58:19 am
I think it's hilarious that someone drew an ejaculating cock on some bit of rock.  I don't see the harm if it just rubs off.  Fair enough if it was permanent ,but seriously, it's not the end of the world is it?  Climbing isn't everything :shag:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dobbin on April 23, 2007, 10:26:36 am
I dont. I think its shit. Dont know if you are aware, access to that crag is sensitive and we are not officially supposed to even go there.

I'm all for banter and people having the craic but potentially this could jeopardise access to one of the best limestone bouldering venues around. The valley is an SSSI and officially off limits, climbers shouldnt really be going at all, but a blind eye is turned on the understanding that we keep a low profile.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: saltbeef on April 23, 2007, 11:24:11 am
nice comment emjohow. whoever did this is a dick. as dobbin says, in the current era of crags such as eagle tor being banned, climbers should be sensible in their behaviour as percieved by the general public. Drawing a cock on a piece of rock in an sssi is pretty fucking stupid. I obviously tit about when i'm out climbing, but i generally brush off a fair bit of chalk and tick marks etc and try and clean up. noticeably someone has sdone a turd and left loads of bogrollby the path on the way in. Is this more climbers?
Its time people grew up, I for one don't want to loose access to another crag through loosers behaving like they're thirteen. If you wanna draw a cock on something try doing it in a motorway service station. Wankers...
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: account_inactive on April 23, 2007, 12:45:15 pm
Agreed.  It's shit like this that gets crags banned
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Joe Brown on April 23, 2007, 01:01:33 pm
Yeah, bang on guys. I wonder if behaviour like this a result of more people getting in to climbing through climbing walls? I certainly learnt what I know about climbing ethics and respect from more experienced folks taking me under their wings and, quite literally, showing me the ropes. I hope this action was the result of genuine youthful (?) inexperience. A mistake. If not, then what on earth are you playing at? My point being that, just as the older guys looked out for me when I first started climbing, it's now perhaps my turn, and that of my contemporaries, to step up and do our bit in educating those new to the sport.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Andy B on April 23, 2007, 01:06:01 pm
I seem to have seen a lot more of this sort of thing recently. I brushed a two feet long elephant, complete with hunters, off the bottom of Gentlemen's Rock in Dimmings Dale on Saturday. Kim and Cofe pointed out that I may have just destroyed a stone age cave masterpiece, but I'm pretty sure early homo erectus didn't use super chalk. Two weeks ago I brushed a big heart off the bottom of the classic highball slab at a Swiss venue with current access issues, along with lots and lots of big, thick tick marks on virtually every problem. Worst of all, on the way back from Switzerland we stopped at Cuisiniere, where someone had presumably let their kids draw three foot human outlines on several boulders in orange black board chalk, which wouldn't brush off.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Bonjoy on April 23, 2007, 03:21:29 pm
 It is absolutely crucial people don't take the access situation at this crag for granted and act with according respect. The area is home to rare and vulnerable wildlife and we're very lucky to have got away with climbing there for so long. You can be totally sure that if climbers are seen to be disrespecting the area or turning up too frequently or in quantity, it will be the end of climbing there for good.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: GCW on April 23, 2007, 03:27:39 pm
I think it's hilarious that someone drew an ejaculating cock on some bit of rock.  I don't see the harm if it just rubs off.  Fair enough if it was permanent ,but seriously, it's not the end of the world is it?  Climbing isn't everything :shag:

I like to go to the Roaches bouldering and nail Ring Ousels to the top of Mushin'.  Piss myself every time.   :wank:

It's stupid sh*t like this that loses us decent venues.  If you see it, brush it off.  Ha ha f*ckin ha.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: north_country_boy on April 23, 2007, 07:09:40 pm
I think it's hilarious that someone drew an ejaculating cock on some bit of rock.  I don't see the harm if it just rubs off.  Fair enough if it was permanent ,but seriously, it's not the end of the world is it?  Climbing isn't everything :shag:

I suspect its no coincidence that was your first and only post......maybe you are more than just acknowledging this behaviour as being ok.....?!?

Fucking mindless idiot whoever did it..... :furious:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Monolith on April 23, 2007, 11:44:06 pm
I think it's hilarious that someone drew an ejaculating cock on some bit of rock.  I don't see the harm if it just rubs off.  Fair enough if it was permanent ,but seriously, it's not the end of the world is it?  Climbing isn't everything :shag:

ehmojow, I'm a bit dismayed with myself here as I'm clearly rising to a very simplistically constructed bait. Alas, like the foolhardy fish attacks the lure, I simply have to heap disdain upon you.

You are scum and a spunking cock yourself. I would like to draw a spunking cock on your face in indellible marker (what harm does it do? It'll wash off eventually). You deserve to choke on your own penis - A feat no doubt you have mastered given your penchant for spunking cocks.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: andy_e on April 24, 2007, 12:42:14 am
Somebody had written "Cunt!" just above the jug on Angel Deelite and I brushed it off. two weeks later it could still be just about made out in the patch of chalk.  :wank:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: GCW on April 24, 2007, 08:55:34 am
Somebody had written "Cunt!" just above the jug on Angel Deelite and I brushed it off.

Someone knew you were going there  :lol:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: ehmojow on April 24, 2007, 09:36:39 am
I see where you are coming from and my earlier comment was a little childish I suppose.  It is unacceptable for someone to create such images on crags with access issues such as the aforementioned venues.  I apologise whole-heartedly for my comment earlier about it being hilarious.  I did not consider the wider consequences of such actions   :oops:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: al on April 24, 2007, 02:49:30 pm
while not condoning the cock, its possible some climbers aren't aware of the delicate nature of the venue - don't want to sound elitist but it would be good to somehow disuade casual users who don't share the love?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dobbin on April 24, 2007, 03:06:51 pm
I agree. Think its a bit of an issue that this particular crag has become popular. It seems that everyone knows about it. In the old days you had to beg to be taken by someone in the know and then only after a thorough explanation of the access issues. These days word has spread and its not uncommon to see several cars parked up at the top. We've got to be well careful with this crag, its pretty obvious that a car parked in that spot = climbers.

Theres some folklore around the crag but I would have thought most of the problems there too tough for most casuals?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: a dense loner on April 25, 2007, 04:57:25 pm
or maybe it's fools who have put it in it's own thread on what is probably britains most popular bouldering site
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dobbin on April 25, 2007, 09:54:26 pm
That is a good point. Me and Follicle were talking about this very same issue this evening. Should we remove all stickitis references to said crag? Perhaps we should? Think theres a case for so doing?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: a dense loner on April 25, 2007, 11:25:57 pm
a quite strong case i would say, but is the damage already done?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Ru on April 26, 2007, 08:00:58 am
Can't hurt. I'd take down references - maybe, even, get people should take off references from their 8a scorecard? I imageine that gets looked at a lot.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: a dense loner on April 26, 2007, 08:14:02 am
take down stuff from their scorecard. really ru is your faith in human nature that great?  ;)
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 26, 2007, 08:29:02 am
Remove all reference. The species found nearby is found nowhere else in the world. The area is protected to the highest levels, its a miracle clandestine access is ignored as it is.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dave on April 26, 2007, 12:28:28 pm
i'm going to play devils advocat here but i you remove all reference to it on here then how are people going to know there's access issues at all? Bearing in mind even if you remove all trace of the crag here its still all over old OTE issues, photos and vids on the web, and they ain't going to re-edit Stick it or One Summer for our benefit.

Also bear in mind that the access issue isn't apparent on any OS maps, theres no signs up at the crag, most modern guides pretend the crag doesn't exist, and there is no entry on the bmc access database.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Moo on April 26, 2007, 12:47:42 pm
surely it's just a way of helping the situation in any way possible, every little helps.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Stubbs on April 26, 2007, 01:07:29 pm
Bearing in mind even if you remove all trace of the crag here its still all over old OTE issues, photos and vids on the web, and they ain't going to re-edit Stick it or One Summer for our benefit.

The videos don't come with directions or a topo though do they?  I wonder how many people actually know where this crag is, I've been once but certainly couldn't find my way back again without a knowledgable guide.  I find it hard to believe that people would guess where it is without having been taken by one of the cognescenti at some point?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: r-man on April 26, 2007, 01:17:46 pm
Theres some folklore around the crag but I would have thought most of the problems there too tough for most casuals?

I think that is the only thing that has kept its popularity below that of Rubicon and the Tor. I know plenty of people who vaguely know about this crag, but don't seek it out because they've heard it's all a bit hard. There are lots of people who do laps on Rubicon roof or siege Sardine, but for whom a trip to Crag x would be a waste of time.

I'm not convinced that the internet has enhanced its popularity - as far as I'm aware, nowhere on the web can you find directions to this crag. Which is a good thing. Popularity has grown merely because the number of climbers has grown. People tell their mates, and they tell their mates. The limestone regulars talk to each other, and word has inevitably spread. Nowadays with so many people training hard, the problems at the crag are appealing to so many more people.

As the years go on, the crag is only going to get more popular. Having said that, I've still never seen double figures at the crag, so perhaps the number of cars is partially due to more climbers owning their own vehicles, and a decrease in car-sharing.

Maybe this is one thing we could try - more car-sharing where possible. Instead of meeting a mate at the crag, arrange to go in the same car.

Or even avoid the crag if there are already several cars there.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: (woz) on April 26, 2007, 02:29:22 pm
In my opinion removing the references would be pretty pointless. 95% of local climbers have absolutely no desire to go anyway, and people would hear about the crag through friends/mags/videos as previously mentioned. I now always park down the hill and walk up, rather than beside the crag, in an attempt to be a little less conspicuous. Whether this helps or not I'm not sure, but I doubt if this practice will catch on anyhow.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Jim on April 26, 2007, 06:58:41 pm
Or how about if there is 2 cars there already just continue on to the next crag instead or go the other crag or park elsewhere
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: andy popp on April 27, 2007, 07:38:59 am
If its any consolation, I haven't got a clue where you're talking about.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2007, 07:47:04 am
If its any consolation, I haven't got a clue where you're talking about.
:lol:
I know where it is but I wouldn't dare go for fear of the Ghost of Crag kjshdfkjdfhg .  Shhhhh.  Don't go, you will regret it. :'(
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: account_inactive on April 27, 2007, 12:32:04 pm
When I first posted I thought you were talking about Rubicon for some reason.  This it totally unbelievable as the only people to go here are climbers (pretty much).  The fact that it's a high grade crag makes it all the more worrying. 

I don't know how you could remove all trace of it, but maybe taking pictures down might be a way to go
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2007, 01:06:30 pm
If its any consolation, I haven't got a clue where you're talking about.

Me too, not a scooby. And unlikely to ever need to find out.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2007, 01:10:27 pm
I don't know how you could remove all trace of it, but maybe taking pictures down might be a way to go

The web has nothing to do with it. There are no directions on the web.

The only way you can get to this place is by getting somone to take you.

Taking down all references on the web would achieve nothing. Taking measures to keep numbers down is not a bad idea, but removing web references is a fool's errand.

If we can agree to limit cars at the crag, and car-share as much as possible, that at least is a constructive step.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 27, 2007, 02:08:53 pm
That's faulty logic. Folk want to go here because they've heard about it from somewhere, seen pictures or seen problems listed on scorecards. Even if you haven't first seen this info on the web, further exposure to it is only likely to further pique your interest or remind you of its existence.

Likewise, saying hard problems are only of interest to the elite is patently untrue. I bet every member of this forum has at some point gone to look at a famous hard problem that is beyond their ability.

This crag is an exception where a cliquey, elitist attitude needs to be taken to ensure access is very limited. having photos, ticklists, conditions reports etc online is not a way to maintain this.

Quote
The only way you can get to this place is by getting somone to take you.

Utter rubbish. Anyone with a map, legs, and a moderation of nouse could find this if they wanted to. You credit folk with far less persistence than they have.

Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: account_inactive on April 27, 2007, 02:19:06 pm
I didn't say that there was any descriptions, but on a certain website there is a topo minus the names and grades.........

I don't think it's a foolish thing by stopping popularising the area via UKB.  Most people could find out how to get there these days.  You don't even need to be climbing that hard to get a tour.

Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: andy popp on April 27, 2007, 02:24:28 pm
Rather ironically, this thread has made me very keen to know the whereabouts of a crag I'd never heard of before - even if it is all too hard and I'll never visit.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 27, 2007, 02:34:28 pm
'Twas always known as Crag X, featured in The Power of Climbing and One Summer etc, I'm sure you've heard of it if not been Andy
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: andy popp on April 27, 2007, 02:38:56 pm
Is that it? I'm so disappointed. Of course I've been. I once had a very funny session trying Cherokee or Jericho (whichever one Moffratocity finishes up) with my own personal motivational team of Ben and Jerry urging me on and screaming as I fell off that last move (again and again). Did it in the end.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: (woz) on April 27, 2007, 02:50:02 pm
Likewise, saying hard problems are only of interest to the elite is patently untrue. I bet every member of this forum has at some point gone to look at a famous hard problem that is beyond their ability.

Yeah, like gritstone punters going to look at Jericho road - and then bragging about it in the news section of a national bouldering website. They are the real villains here.

Disclaimer: just kidding ;), don't want to take a guppy to the neck.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2007, 03:06:10 pm

Utter rubbish. Anyone with a map, legs, and a moderation of nouse could find this if they wanted to. You credit folk with far less persistence than they have.


Do you really believe that? Most people can't even be bothered to google a reference or look up a spelling, let alone dig out a map and start exploring.

And maybe it is possible with a bit of detective work, but how many people do you think have actually done it, if any? I hardly think this an issue.

People find out about this place because their mates know about it, not by discovering it on the net. Obviously more people know about it now than twenty years ago, but that's to be expected.

If we really want to do something, being conscientious about cars is the most effective solution.

Sure, take down the topo, but though it might seem like positive action, in reality I doubt it will achieve anything.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: a dense loner on April 27, 2007, 03:53:17 pm
why have you got a bee in your bonnet about cars at the crag? if that's the case don't go there and contribute to it. what's all this nonsense about car-sharing? you obviously climb with far more reliable people than i do to bang on about car-sharing.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2007, 04:22:59 pm
Not just car-sharing, but like jim and woz have also said, parking elsewhere or avoiding the crag if there are already cars there. Just a suggestion. No bees involved.

If nothing else, at least this thread will have reinforced the key point:

Quote from: Bonjoy
It is absolutely crucial people don't take the access situation at this crag for granted and act with according respect. The area is home to rare and vulnerable wildlife and we're very lucky to have got away with climbing there for so long. You can be totally sure that if climbers are seen to be disrespecting the area or turning up too frequently or in quantity, it will be the end of climbing there for good.

Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 27, 2007, 05:27:16 pm
Quote from: Johnny Brown on Today at 02:08:53 PM

Quote
Quote
Utter rubbish. Anyone with a map, legs, and a moderation of nouse could find this if they wanted to. You credit folk with far less persistence than they have.


Do you really believe that? Most people can't even be bothered to google a reference or look up a spelling, let alone dig out a map and start exploring.

I don't just believe it, I know it to be a fact. You seem to be confusing climbers in general with climbers you know? Most folk don't need to ask on the internet how to get from leeds to caley. How do you think these places got found? Did lakes bouldering, for example, develop itself? Didn't you, yourself, waste days and weeks visiting shitty lancs quarries too esoteric even for previous lancs quarries aficionados?

The access agreement for this crag is conditional on it not appearing in guidebooks. I dare say if the naturalists knew about such things, they would have added online topos, videos, conditions threads, 8a.nu scorecards and B+W coffee table books to that. Folk need to take a more responsible attitude.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: a dense loner on April 27, 2007, 05:39:51 pm
johnny is on the money there. plus r-man your logic is based on people living in or near shef who only live half hr away, who at a whim can decide to go another day etc. people will still find it but, like i said, to have it on a stuck thread on a popular site is a bit much. i will gladly park my car there while you and woz walk, i know jim won't be doing any walking, unless he carries his gps in hand
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2007, 08:06:19 pm
Quote from: Johnny Brown on Today at 02:08:53 PM

I don't just believe it, I know it to be a fact. You seem to be confusing climbers in general with climbers you know? Most folk don't need to ask on the internet how to get from leeds to caley. How do you think these places got found? Did lakes bouldering, for example, develop itself? Didn't you, yourself, waste days and weeks visiting shitty lancs quarries too esoteric even for previous lancs quarries aficionados?


What? That's beside the point. Yes of course there are a few keen explorers dotted round the country. But a small minority of explorers does not a problem at Crag x make. The vast majority of people are convenience climbers, especially in the Peak. Bonjoy was telling me not so long ago how frustrating it was that so few people were interested in his discoveries, yet when he put them in a guidebook, suddenly everyone was keen. Except Wharncliffe of course, no one seems to want to go to Wharncliffe.

And yes maybe I was just basing this on people I know. But I was on the limestone at lot last year and it was the same faces again and again. There might be more of the same faces than there used to be, but I never once saw a bumbly who just thought he'd come down and have a look at something famous.

Also, I feel I should point this out. I am not joined at the hip to Andi_e. Nor by any other appendage.

Take the thread on Crag x down - I doubt it will reduce numbers at the crag, but hey, if that's what people want to do...
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: account_inactive on April 27, 2007, 08:09:10 pm
I'm guessing you don't have a car R-man
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Somebody's Fool on April 27, 2007, 09:14:39 pm
r-man.   Your argument relies on some pretty weighty assumptions about what people might and might not do.  Assumptions are fine, but facts are more important.  And the fact is that there's a species of moss(?) which grows there and only there in the whole world.  If I was the Peak Park authorities I'd be particularly precious about this.

Removing the references might not reduce the numbers of visitors, but hey, in a case this sensitive, is it worth taking that chance?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dobbin on April 28, 2007, 07:29:44 am
THink its algae?

R-man, purging the board of threads will not remove the information from peoples heads, those that have been before will still know how to get there, and as discussed already, those that want to go still will. Its a question of responsibility, the aforementioned threads about conditions and the like are an encouragement and endorsement of the place and thats irresponsible.

As for the car sharing red herring - of course we should all share cars where possible, sometimes it just isnt.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Paul B on April 28, 2007, 12:53:27 pm
It would be a massive shame if somewhere with as much history as this suffered due to a few peoples idiotic behaviour. It's almost certainly been done by climbers which shocks me, people who come to this crag must surely know of its rich history and its delicate access agreement?
There does seem to have been a dramatic rise in the bad behaviour of climbers, ignoring parking regulations (Back Bowden, Slipstones), shitting left right and center and now drawing giant cocks on the rock. Its got to stop.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: GCW on April 28, 2007, 01:54:33 pm
There does seem to have been a dramatic rise in the bad behaviour of climbers
Os is it the increasing number of climbers, but the same proprtion of dickheads?
It's got to stop.
Couldn't agree more- but how?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Joe Brown on April 28, 2007, 02:08:03 pm
Education, education, education.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Paul B on April 28, 2007, 04:47:31 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXCmmJMDgwg

Couldn't agree more- but how?

I thought a sign at said crag might do the trick but I don't know if that would just illustrate the fact that climbers go there? An article on a big site like UKC could go along way to educating people, I remember Panton's 10 commandments of bouldering maybe a re-iteration of this or an article that points out the venues we have lost or are on the verge of loosing because of twatty behaviour.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: (woz) on April 28, 2007, 04:49:28 pm
A worrying thing happened this morning at said crag. Whilst bouldering there, we heard voices coming up from the stream below, from people walking up the valley beside the stream. They got to around level with the crag (still at the base of the valley), and then turned back and thrashed back down again. This on its own could be put down to ignorant walkers, but one of the them was heard to say "oh look, there's crag x". We assumed that they would continue up the valley so we could have a word with them, but didn't realise they had turned around till it was too late.
Did they not know, or just not care? A possible argument for having a sticky on ukb outlining the situation?
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: GCW on April 28, 2007, 06:20:27 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXCmmJMDgwg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXWXSKv23_Y&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAGQnh_D-9c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLWjqdqMd24

Hope that adds something to the debate  8)
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Paul B on April 28, 2007, 07:13:00 pm
ha! sorry I must of dumped that off my clipboard somehow...(Anyway keith look and take note!)

The first time I went looking for Crag X I climbed the wall in the wrong place and followed a track for about 10m until it pretty much disappeared (no crag in sight) I then went home and rempremanded Ned for his directions and distance approxiamtion. Thrashing around in that area just isn't on, I know a few people have been questing further up stream for more rock which isn't on either.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 28, 2007, 08:14:32 pm
Funnily enough, went here today and three folk appeared, not looking like boulderers. I asked how they'd found it and they replied "we've just stumbled on it, what a lovely spot. Where does the path go then?"
However R-man will be able to take heart from the fact that everyone there shared lifts, and some even parked at the bottom of the hill and walked up.
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: Jim on April 29, 2007, 10:30:01 pm
you went twice in the same year  :jaw:
Title: Re: Crag graf
Post by: dave on April 30, 2007, 12:13:34 pm
presumably checking jericho road is still shit? or have we moved on to checking if moffattrocity is still shit?
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